Sizing Pump Properly For Irrigation System

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DirtySanchez

DirtySanchez

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Hoping someone will help with properly sizing a pump for irrigation system. In my experience this is part art, part science. Looking to pressurize the entire system and feed all sites at once. Been down the road of valves, solenoids etc and I'm over it.

I will post pics once set up is completed. Will be doing 40k grow journal on this location if there is enough interest. Fully legal medical grow.

Here's the irrigation set up in this room:

-56 sites (7 rows of 8) under 20k hps

-28 x 8 site irrigation heads (each head does 2 sites, 4 lines per site). We use spaghetti lines and Ecoplus drip baskets.
http://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Adjustable-8-Port-Irrigation-Manifold/dp/B00004S26U

-3/4" pvc main lines, 3/4" 1ft risers

-Runs are roughly 24' long with 2x22' pieces connecting the system on front and back. entire system is plumbed together on all sides. Basically envision a square built out of pvc with the rest of the runs plumbed in with T's if this makes sense. I've attached pics to help.
Sizing pump properly for irrigation system


Wait till you see it with the saucers & drains plumbed in. Gonna be a sick set up. Using Ecoplus 633 pumps inline for drain. Will post pics and in depth explanations in journal.

Any suggestions???
 
Billyboat

Billyboat

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Without dividing the rows into zones with sprinkler valves I would imagine you need at least a 2-3 hp inline pump.

I am setting up an irrigation system in my 24k room and I am able to use a 3/4 hp pump because I've divided it into 4 separate zones.
 
DirtySanchez

DirtySanchez

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Yeah.. I've done the zones with selinoids... I've done the hand valves too. I was thinking (more like hoping) I could use the 1.5hp harbor freight inline.. But I think you're right, realistically more like a 3hp.

I'm considering splitting it into 2 zones and using 2 separate 1.5hp pumps, one for each side of the room. The 1.5hp pumps are only like $120 each vs $400-500 for a good 3hp.

I really want to simplify these systems to the max. Thanks for your input. I'll post a link to the journal w pics of the set up soon.
 
Lurkin4yrs

Lurkin4yrs

781
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Looks good, I'm using a HF well booster pump(stainless one)1.5 hp I believe. It has the unit on top to make it on demand, I'm using on a wand for now but next run I'll be doing semi automated.

Can't wait to see ur grow.
Good luck brother
-lurkin
 
deacon1503

deacon1503

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I'm gonna say just grab a Grundfos MQ-45 1-hp booster pump. Also I'd recc u upgrade ur main pvc run to 1" to facilitate more volume at less pressure. If one pump isn't enough, split the system using 2 pumps from the same Rez. U can use ball valves to regulate pressure as well.
 
Lurkin4yrs

Lurkin4yrs

781
93
I'm gonna say just grab a Grundfos MQ-45 1-hp booster pump. Also I'd recc u upgrade ur main pvc run to 1" to facilitate more volume at less pressure. If one pump isn't enough, split the system using 2 pumps from the same Rez. U can use ball valves to regulate pressure as well.

1" forsure!

-lurkin
 
Confuten1

Confuten1

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I'm gonna say just grab a Grundfos MQ-45 1-hp booster pump. Also I'd recc u upgrade ur main pvc run to 1" to facilitate more volume at less pressure. If one pump isn't enough, split the system using 2 pumps from the same Rez. U can use ball valves to regulate pressure as well.
Aye D, when u say u can use ball valves to regulate pressure, where is the best/most effective/safe place to use a ball valve or valves.
confu
 
Confuten1

Confuten1

exploitin strengths - perfectin weaknessess
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Hoping someone will help with properly sizing a pump for irrigation system. In my experience this is part art, part science. Looking to pressurize the entire system and feed all sites at once. Been down the road of valves, solenoids etc and I'm over it.

I will post pics once set up is completed. Will be doing 40k grow journal on this location if there is enough interest. Fully legal medical grow.

Here's the irrigation set up in this room:

-56 sites (7 rows of 8) under 20k hps

-28 x 8 site irrigation heads (each head does 2 sites, 4 lines per site). We use spaghetti lines and Ecoplus drip baskets.
http://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Adjustable-8-Port-Irrigation-Manifold/dp/B00004S26U

-3/4" pvc main lines, 3/4" 1ft risers

-Runs are roughly 24' long with 2x22' pieces connecting the system on front and back. entire system is plumbed together on all sides. Basically envision a square built out of pvc with the rest of the runs plumbed in with T's if this makes sense. I've attached pics to help.View attachment 462230

Wait till you see it with the saucers & drains plumbed in. Gonna be a sick set up. Using Ecoplus 633 pumps inline for drain. Will post pics and in depth explanations in journal.

Any suggestions???

looks good man, this is an area of focus for me lately, as i need to get serious about setting up irrigation. thanks for starting the thread.
confu
 
We Solidarity

We Solidarity

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I'm gonna say just grab a Grundfos MQ-45 1-hp booster pump. Also I'd recc u upgrade ur main pvc run to 1" to facilitate more volume at less pressure. If one pump isn't enough, split the system using 2 pumps from the same Rez. U can use ball valves to regulate pressure as well.

I've used the grundfos multiple times in the past and they kick ass. I've watered up to 180 plants at once under 27 lights so 58 plants on a grid shouldn't be a problem, especially with manifolds. Another thing I'll add- 4 emitters per seems like overkill, most setups I have just one line going to the pot. I've used those orbit manifolds before and took out lots of frustration on them with a sledgehammer...honestly I think 4 sites per plant is overkill and you'd do just as well cutting the amount of outlets in half (that will double your pressure right off the bat). These are what I used in the last irrigation setup I made, definitely loving them:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DIG-Corp-12-GPH-4-Outlet-Retrofit-Drip-Manifold-A4-12/202614211

As far as the emitters go, the baskets are a let down too. I've been rockin it freeflow lately- just letting it pee into the pot. Works way better no matter what the pressure, they also make omni-directional spray heads (similar to the ones on cloners) that you can put on the end of your spaghetti line and just stake up, those work great too as long as you're not feeding organics through the line.
 
We Solidarity

We Solidarity

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Also wanna add- i usually run my pumps on a separate breaker from anything else and also run them on a GFI outlet. This pump will definitely last a little longer with an added expansion tank but it's not really necessary, if you're not comfortable installing an in-line pump I'd just cut your irrigation run in half and run it all off two separate 3/4 sump pumps.
 
deacon1503

deacon1503

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Aye D, when u say u can use ball valves to regulate pressure, where is the best/most effective/safe place to use a ball valve or valves.
confu

Ultimately further away from the pump as possible.

I use the Octabubbler 10gph (red dot), with a 25 psi regulator underneath them so the ball valve is kind of a back up regulator, if needed at all.

I also use the fan-jet microsprinkler in Red. 1 spinkler for 5 gallon. 2 for 7 gallon.

Call GreenCoast Hydro in So Cal they have all that stuff.
 
Confuten1

Confuten1

exploitin strengths - perfectin weaknessess
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Ultimately further away from the pump as possible.

I use the Octabubbler 10gph (red dot), with a 25 psi regulator underneath them so the ball valve is kind of a back up regulator, if needed at all.

I also use the fan-jet microsprinkler in Red. 1 spinkler for 5 gallon. 2 for 7 gallon.

Call GreenCoast Hydro in So Cal they have all that stuff.

cool, I also own all that stuff when i saw Jack post info on his system but never finished an install because i got stalled out on the pump and size and also felt a lil intimidated. thanks for the info.

confu
 
midwestdensies

midwestdensies

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Grundfo inline pump 1 hp. fuck ecoplus. Read there info says not for brine and salts. Aka made.to push water. Get real shit. I use an alita submersible waste.pump works well.
 
Billyboat

Billyboat

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Grundfo inline pump 1 hp. fuck ecoplus. Read there info says not for brine and salts. Aka made.to push water. Get real shit. I use an alita submersible waste.pump works well.


Agreed, my 1hp ecnoplus inline sometimes just won't pump water, lucky for me it just pumps ro to my nute tanks but it's super annoying. Get the grundfo's!
 
DirtySanchez

DirtySanchez

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@We Solidarity.. We use 4 emitters now for 7g pots just to ensure we're getting good distribution of water throughout the pot... Come to think of it though the drip baskets probably aren't the best way to distribute water throughout the whole pot. Do you think 2 is enough in 7g? I also like the idea of using 2 lines (lines only no baskets) and letting them kind of just pee in the pot as you say though, might try that. Sprayers actually sound like a great idea to cut down on emitters as well.. Maybe I should have posted this thread BEFORE I built the system.

Since it's already built I'm going for the path of least resistance here and gonna pray we can pressurize the whole system with the 1.5hp harbor freight. We'll get it installed this weekend and give an update.

Any irrigation geniuses out there know some type of formula to calculate these types of things?... C'mon guys!!

Also, any suggestions on brands of pumps OVER 1.5hp up to 5 HP that aren't extremely loud?

Thx
DS
 
Fresh Starts

Fresh Starts

338
93
I've been building an irrigation system lately.

Things you need to know to size your pump:
-Distance the lines run from the pump to the last emmiter
-how many emitters you plan to use
-The GPH or GPM rating of the emitter heads.

2 Emitters per 7 gallon pot is fine. You can up the watering time if you need more saturation. An added surfactant into the drip system can also dramatically improve the irrigation systems' ability to saturate media without channeling. Here is a link to the one I use here: Clicky--> Aqua Gro

Not to say that the pee method doesn't work but in general you want to use a pressure compensating emitter so that the last emitter puts out the same amount of water as the first emitter on the line.

Once you have all the emitters you want to use you basically add them all up based on how much water they use in GPM (Gallons per minute) Lets say I wanted to use 50 of these drip heads from bowsmith (2 per pot @ 25 plants). For our purposes we will use nozzle size 30 (black). It has a window of PSI it will operate under from 10-30. Since we want lower watering times and the maximum water output, lets shoot for 30 PSI in our lines.

The emitters are rated 7.4 GPH @ 30 psi. To find what the GPM is we divide 7.4/60= .12 GPM
Each head puts out .12 gallons per minute. Then we multiply (.12) by (50) for the number of emitter we have. (.12) x (50)= 6.16 GPM required.

Looking at a performance curve for the Grundfos Mq 3-45 Here: Clicky---> Chart
scrolling down to the flooded suction performance curve, it states the 45 pump starts at 63 psi (its maximum output) and at 6 GPM, we are barely getting into the middle of its performance curve. Which means this pump will more than handle those many emitters at 30 PSI. Of coarse the pressure would have to be dropped to 30 PSI through a pressure regulator down the line from the pump so the emittters don't pop off the lines!

One thing to keep in mind is that you loose 4.5 - 5 PSI for every 100 Feet of PVC piping you use. You could use bigger diameter piping to overcome this issue. 1" piping will do fine for most indoor applications.
 
We Solidarity

We Solidarity

1,610
263
I've been building an irrigation system lately.

Things you need to know to size your pump:
-Distance the lines run from the pump to the last emmiter
-how many emitters you plan to use
-The GPH or GPM rating of the emitter heads.

2 Emitters per 7 gallon pot is fine. You can up the watering time if you need more saturation. An added surfactant into the drip system can also dramatically improve the irrigation systems' ability to saturate media without channeling. Here is a link to the one I use here: Clicky--> Aqua Gro

Not to say that the pee method doesn't work but in general you want to use a pressure compensating emitter so that the last emitter puts out the same amount of water as the first emitter on the line.

Once you have all the emitters you want to use you basically add them all up based on how much water they use in GPM (Gallons per minute) Lets say I wanted to use 50 of these drip heads from bowsmith (2 per pot @ 25 plants). For our purposes we will use nozzle size 30 (black). It has a window of PSI it will operate under from 10-30. Since we want lower watering times and the maximum water output, lets shoot for 30 PSI in our lines.

The emitters are rated 7.4 GPH @ 30 psi. To find what the GPM is we divide 7.4/60= .12 GPM
Each head puts out .12 gallons per minute. Then we multiply (.12) by (50) for the number of emitter we have. (.12) x (50)= 6.16 GPM required.

Looking at a performance curve for the Grundfos Mq 3-45 Here: Clicky---> Chart
scrolling down to the flooded suction performance curve, it states the 45 pump starts at 63 psi (its maximum output) and at 6 GPM, we are barely getting into the middle of its performance curve. Which means this pump will more than handle those many emitters at 30 PSI. Of coarse the pressure would have to be dropped to 30 PSI through a pressure regulator down the line from the pump so the emittters don't pop off the lines!

One thing to keep in mind is that you loose 4.5 - 5 PSI for every 100 Feet of PVC piping you use. You could use bigger diameter piping to overcome this issue. 1" piping will do fine for most indoor applications.


For the record...a properly pressurized system is already gonna water consistent regardless of emitters or flow regulation...its all about the diameter of your piping and length of your run. I check check the pissers weekly they all run at 1 liter/ minute spaced a foot apart on a 40 foot loop, 40 plants per zone.

As far as the water channeling, I never notice this in coco but I also never pack my media I just fill the pot and leave it loose to compact with watering.

Super good info on pump sizing though, only thing I have to add is that in higher pressure systems with sprayers you absolutely cannot let your reservoir get dirty, fall out, or have any sort of kelp/guano/humics, soon as gunk gets in the system you're gonna start clogging. That's why I like freeflowin I can leavey garden for 5 days and not come back to dead plants with clogged emitters
 
Hookah79

Hookah79

27
3
Bump...
If using a Grundfos MQ-45 Pump is there a need for an accumulator if your set up is zoned properly??.Meaning it’s split thru different zones using solenoids and octabbublers??.

I like changing up grows at times and i ‘d hate not to have the right accumulator when i change pot sizes and watering frequencies,plus less labor needed to install one????.

Also to the guys not using accumulators is there any issues when your Grundfos doesn’t cycle off when not using the tank????.
 
N

nicolajanjak

139
43
Hi guys
Lately I tried to build a small dtw for my coco 1 gal smarpots
I had 70 emitters for 7 meters of irrigation
I used a dirt water pump( I don’t k’ow The right term)
It was 1/3 hp, I was told it was good. But when I turned it on only the half of the emitters were pissing. The one closer to the pump. The last emitters of the line were not pissing... pressure problem

So I guessed the pb was the dirt cave pump. I think I need to use a real garden pump. Like the Gardena 3500-4 maybe
Give me your opinions please
 
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