So it goes like this right?

[Thedoorz420]

Nitrogen heavy in veg, Phosphurus heavy in the first half of bloom then potasium heavy to finish her up!

of course when i say heavy i mean more then the rest, is this the correct sequence or is my K and P in wrong places or im i completely wrong I am working with Real Sour Diesel from ny

 

[Natural]

Plants need all three, Nitrogen Phosphorous and Potassium (NPK) in constant varying amounts. So in veg you need a fertilizer that has a high percentage of Nitrogen..saying it this way means you intend to give a plant all of it's needed NPK's including Nitrogen. Yet, if all you give your plants is NPK..they will grow just fine, but it's like feeding your kid a soda-pop and white bread diet. They would reach a much higher quality state-of-expression when you also include micronutrients vitamins and minerals in their diet.
With that in mind, plants require more Nitrogen in veg and less/none later in flower. They require more Phosphorous in Flower. A balanced portion of Potassium in both veg and flower. It is actually a bit more complicated than that when it comes to describing what these three Macronutrients provide for the plant in terms of over-all health..but for simplicity's sake that will suffice.
As for the ECSD cut...if that is in facto what it is...she is a long flowering sativa dominant. Thinking you will go at least 11-11.5 weeks, I would work up to a full strength high Nitrogen formula with a dose of Cal-Mag and keep it running well into 3 weeks after flipping. At around the 3rd week I would give her a 50/50 mix of high N formula and high Phosphorous formula until around week 6. Then give her a high P formula the rest of the way. The whole time keeping her on a regular feed with Cal-Mag. I wouldn't feed "heavy" with her..but i would feed medium to medium/heavy the whole way. The trick is to keep her green for that long of a flower time. Good luck!

 

[Thedoorz420]

Thank you so much so i will fill you on my situation alil morei am using Veg Plus Bloom(dirty) and vitamino during veg, then i use vegplusbloom, Krazy kelp, Vitamino (first 4 weeks of Flower), M.O.AB,(1st and last 2 weeks of Flower), Hydroplex(when i aint usng Moab) and Epson salt.
Every week i make a compost tea with mexican and jamaican guano worm casting kelp mollases which i feed to both veg and flower stages
Also once a week i use Great white microbes on veg to enhance roots

Ive had great results and qualitywith this method But i like you said the hardest thing is keeping them green the whole time , so i dont believe i am getting the full benefits of my work I started in out with ionic nutrients then went full Botanicare line up, and then this regiment and this one gives more yeild and better quality but they dont stay as green during the process Mostly during the middle weeks I just added the epson salt for sulfer and magnesium boost hoping that will help

I keep my ph betwen 5.9 and 6.1 I never go below 5.7 and above 6.2 i am using 50/50 coco and perlite

If sulfer isnt what i am missing what else could cause some yellow fading from the tips in, i know nitrogen has similiar signs but like ya said before there is no need for nitrogen really in flower

 

[connoisseurde420]

I'm pretty sure coco sucks up potassium. maybe more micro is needed

 

[budm]

How far into flowering are you? If just in the first few weeks, you could foliar apply the Epsom for faster results.

 

[Thedoorz420]

there at 7 th week out of 11 should i try to just hit the water leafs or just soak the plant cause i dont wanna lose these crystals

 

[Natural]

I wouldn't recommend any foliar after budset, but lets breakdown what your using a bit. One part A&B nutes can be difficult to dial if you are adding other stuffs. Your Kelp has lots of Potassium in it at 1-0-17 and the you're using alot of Magnesium. These will compete with other micro nutrients especially your calcium..so be careful with your amounts and timing with them. I would use your epsom only as a foliar until you start seeing bud formation and then stop. Use the kelp in small amounts to add hardiness to your plants during veg and stretch then lay back on it to very little during flower and I would cut it out completely about 4 weeks before harvest.
Fresh CoCo needs to be charged with a CalMag product. Get a bottle of Cal-Mag..I use Calimagic..but General Organic's Cal-Mag or Botanicare's CalMag+ or something similar will work. Start by adding about 2.5 ml/gal for clones and work up to 8 ml/gal in veg..then as they start budding cut it back to 5 ml/gal. When mixing add your CalMag first then your kelps..and vitamino then your VegBloom base. I would start cutting it off about the same time as the kelps..around 4 weeks prior to harvest.Used Coco holds the CalMag better as it builds up you can decrease the amounts in veg to 4-5 ml/gal.
If you cannot get the one-part nutes to dial with your strain, go with another line that has the high N and high Phosphorous in 2 seperate bottles/containers..so you can better delegate how much/long they get the high N formula.

 

[Thedoorz420]

Sweet thank you i got a couple of fresh out of veg goining into bloom ill keep you posted on my situation thanl you again

 

[Jalisco Kid]

I wouldn't recommend any foliar after budset, but lets breakdown what your using a bit. One part A&B nutes can be difficult to dial if you are adding other stuffs. Your Kelp has lots of Potassium in it at 1-0-17 and the you're using alot of Magnesium. These will compete with other micro nutrients especially your calcium..so be careful with your amounts and timing with them. I would use your epsom only as a foliar until you start seeing bud formation and then stop. Use the kelp in small amounts to add hardiness to your plants during veg and stretch then lay back on it to very little during flower and I would cut it out completely about 4 weeks before harvest.
Fresh CoCo needs to be charged with a CalMag product. Get a bottle of Cal-Mag..I use Calimagic..but General Organic's Cal-Mag or Botanicare's CalMag+ or something similar will work. Start by adding about 2.5 ml/gal for clones and work up to 8 ml/gal in veg..then as they start budding cut it back to 5 ml/gal. When mixing add your CalMag first then your kelps..and vitamino then your VegBloom base. I would start cutting it off about the same time as the kelps..around 4 weeks prior to harvest.Used Coco holds the CalMag better as it builds up you can decrease the amounts in veg to 4-5 ml/gal.
If you cannot get the one-part nutes to dial with your strain, go with another line that has the high N and high Phosphorous in 2 seperate bottles/containers..so you can better delegate how much/long they get the high N formula.

Why do you not recommend floral spraying after the flowers arrive and what do you get by adding a high ppm of P(what is high numerically)? JK

 

[Jalisco Kid]

there at 7 th week out of 11 should i try to just hit the water leafs or just soak the plant cause i dont wanna lose these crystals

Trics are not water soluable and misting a plant will not make them fly.JK

 

[Jalisco Kid]

Thank you so much so i will fill you on my situation alil morei am using Veg Plus Bloom(dirty) and vitamino during veg, then i use vegplusbloom, Krazy kelp, Vitamino (first 4 weeks of Flower), M.O.AB,(1st and last 2 weeks of Flower), Hydroplex(when i aint usng Moab) and Epson salt.
Every week i make a compost tea with mexican and jamaican guano worm casting kelp mollases which i feed to both veg and flower stages
Also once a week i use Great white microbes on veg to enhance roots

Ive had great results and qualitywith this method But i like you said the hardest thing is keeping them green the whole time , so i dont believe i am getting the full benefits of my work I started in out with ionic nutrients then went full Botanicare line up, and then this regiment and this one gives more yeild and better quality but they dont stay as green during the process Mostly during the middle weeks I just added the epson salt for sulfer and magnesium boost hoping that will help

I keep my ph betwen 5.9 and 6.1 I never go below 5.7 and above 6.2 i am using 50/50 coco and perlite

If sulfer isnt what i am missing what else could cause some yellow fading from the tips in, i know nitrogen has similiar signs but like ya said before there is no need for nitrogen really in flower

There is indeed a need for N in flowering just different levels. Read to see what N does for a plant.
If you want a green plant thru flowering(why?) use H&G aquaflakes. I think its wrong but you will have green plants at the end. JK

 

[Natural]

Trics are not water soluable and misting a plant will not make them fly.JK

I read that you foliar with buds..have not tried it yet. At what stage do we start to worry about bud-rot? Does foliar turn hairs dark. Ahhh..the mystery...would like to experiment though.

 

[Jalisco Kid]

When I had a small power sprayer that I could really control I used it up to week 6 with no worrys.Week 8 when I really needed to(roots in poor health) Week 5 with your typical hand pump was never a problem. I have only noticed hairs changing using micros, The later in flower I run my nutes in a floral around 250 with no problems.
Just try it on one branch. JK

 

[Thedoorz420]

I understand what the N-P-K does for the plant and what not and doesnt green plants mean healthy plants which would lead to good bud i mean my sour d had yellow leaves the last 9 days before i started flush and the buds came out fantastic i just want to make sure its getting the proper treatment and love they deserve