ccoki said:

Even if you run organic it's like...why would you add the extra stress of something being out of range? Just because it can stabilize (if you're putting the work in for that anyway) doesn't mean it should. Plus when problems inevitably arise at some point in the entire journey of growing, you won't be scrambling. pH is one of the things youre probably going to want to check should something start going wrong.

I keep drops and a bulk bag of pH down and measuring spoons. Rols grower.

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When I first decided to grow (5 1/2 months ago), I bought Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect Micro-Grow-Bloom figuring that I could skip worrying about the pH levels. Then, I tested my tap water, and found that it was higher than the 8.0 that Advanced Nutrients says the pH Perfect line can handle. So I bought a small bottle of pH Down & pH Up. Halfway through my grow, I was scrambling for a much bigger bottle of pH Down, and the pH Up remains in factory sealed condition! lol

I have been on a few grow forums, but this is the first place I have found that is so active. Every day I look at New threads/replies, and its full of people starting threads asking simple yet sometimes very specific questions and often they get their answers within an hour, its really impressive and its why I made an account here. You being on this site is going to help you a lot. I doubt you will have to trade anything!

WickedMichelle said:

A fair yield
Decent THC level
Not have to rely on someone else to get my supply.
Most important - Does not taste homegrown!!!

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The first 3 come from good genetics which I think you have covered, and the last one you wont have to worry about unless you mess up drying and curing haha. Usually when you grow seeds its easier to just grow 1 strain at a time. But LOTS of people grow multiple strains at once. Its just annoying when you don't know what they will do, then all of a sudden 1 plant is twice the size of the other. But don't let that discourage you, my first grow was multi strain and it went GREAT, it was just annoying that some finished before others, like weeks before others, and were different sizes. But it was great having 4 different jars to choose my smoke from. What I did was I boosted my smaller plants up to the same height as my tallest plant with buckets, it was annoying but it was not hard a hard fix because I didn't run a trellis net.

In soil?
Ph is useless,
You can just pay attention to your plants health. If something is off water wise, and the plant reacts poorly, then ph’ing water isn’t going to change anything. crazy alkaline or acidic water would be the only reason to ever use it.
Meaning the water source would be toxic to even us and our pets.
It’s incredibly rare to see ph issues being the main driver of problems in soil.

Captspaulding said:

In soil?
Ph is useless,
You can just pay attention to your plants health. If something is off water wise, and the plant reacts poorly, then ph’ing water isn’t going to change anything. crazy alkaline or acidic water would be the only reason to ever use it.
Meaning the water source would be toxic to even us and our pets.
It’s incredibly rare to see ph issues being the main driver of problems in soil.

Click to expand...

I can't tell if this is a joke or not. I haven't been here long enough to know whether this is a just a troll account, with all the clown references, or if this is an actual, serious opinion...

MrCannabisExplains said:

I can't tell if this is a joke or not. I haven't been here long enough to know whether this is a just a troll account, with all the clown references, or if this is an actual, serious opinion...

Click to expand...

@Captspaulding is definitely a serious account. I assume he is a big fan of the Rob Zombie franchise (me too) His is some of the most sought after advice on this forum. He certainly has an impressive collection of plants. I'm way too new to growing to contradict what he says about growing. I just know that going all in on plant chemistry has led me to a competent first grow.

But I'm also not growing in soil, so maybe it is less problematic there. IDK.

Phyto said:

You’ve got a good tent, a good light, good seeds. With no ph meter, you’ll need to go organic on the nutes.

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I don't use organic nutes and have never used a ph meter.

MrCannabisExplains said:

I can't tell if this is a joke or not. I haven't been here long enough to know whether this is a just a troll account, with all the clown references, or if this is an actual, serious opinion...

Click to expand...

He is 100% correct on this. Ph is not needed in organic soil. If you are using synthetic nutrients in soil then it can be necessary.

Newty said:

You have the exhaust at the top sucking the air out of the tent right? You referenced it as a blower so I want to make sure you are not blowing into the tent.

I would try and find a way to tie the extra cords up out from below the light, you don't want all the heat from the led lights so close to the wires.
When you tie them up, make sure you have enough slack or a way to untie them easily for when you have to raise and lower your lights.

Click to expand...

Um, no. Just sucking in. This blower/fan.... sucks air in or out, not both that I can see. I have it so it filters air in to help control the heat. I have all the other holes closed off to control the smell. I live in an apartment. I have the tent close to a window, I can get another vent hose and run one from the top out the window. I would need an adapter though. Is this necessary? If so I can look into that as well. Or I can get another filter and have it on the outflow as well as the inflow of air. The blower will not blow the air out though... it blows directly into the inside filter.

Phyto said:

When you say”fish soil” what is that? There are many good commercial bag soils. I use Fox Farms Ocean Forest, which is a good soil, it’s manufactured close to me and I get it cheap (relatively)

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Ocean forest.... Ocean-Fish.... that is what I meant Someone posted that this soil is a no-brainier when it comes to PH. Basically plant and water.

ChuckFinnl3y said:

If your on a Budget i would say go for Organic Fertilizers so you dont need add. Equipment to meassure ppm and can spend more time on basic stuff then to dial in dosing and mess with the run offs and flushing.

If you have access to good tap water, (might be able to check that on a goverment homepage) you can get by without an Ph meter if not atleast get some of those quick test paper straps to make sure it doesnt screw you over.

Pot wise fabric pots seem to be the cheapest option atleast where im living. Before that either/and Seed starting Domes & Red/Party cups.

For your Medium & Fertilizer brand dont overcomplicate it. There is much marketing happen but think how long people have grown Weed wihtout any "High Tech" / Super advaced amendments. I would keep that rabbit hole open for later and just get some regular lightly pre-amended Soil and some Basic Fertilizer for Veggie and Bloom plus some Calmag from something inexpensive.
Im sure people will suggest some Brands available in the States that are not to expensive.
Once you have your Setup going, and purchased everything you need you can check what would make sense to add.

But before purchasing add. ammendments get the enviroment dialed in and rather spend the money on say a decent dehumidfier than some fancy nutrients.

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The tap water here I will not drink LOL. I have been reading the differences between tap and distilled waters. I think I should be ok with our tap water if I let it sit for 24 hours or so. I can pick up some PH strips, that is no biggie. I don't think... I have not priced them yet.

I still have some time before my seeds get here. Shipped yesterday, 3-15 business days. Yesterday was payday and budgeted out for soil, nutrients and some small pots. Next pay I can get a dehumidifier. The weather is still fairly mellow here. I'm a wimp with humidity... we have an AC in every room hahaha. My worry is keeping the apt warm enough for the plants. Hope the LED lights help keep it hot in there.

Newty said:

You have the exhaust at the top sucking the air out of the tent right? You referenced it as a blower so I want to make sure you are not blowing into the tent.

I would try and find a way to tie the extra cords up out from below the light, you don't want all the heat from the led lights so close to the wires.
When you tie them up, make sure you have enough slack or a way to untie them easily for when you have to raise and lower your lights.

Click to expand...

No, just in. Air in and through the inside filter. Air in will help regulate the heat and humidity. I can put another hose on top if needed however there will not be any real force behind the outflow. There is nothing on the filter for exhaust except through the charcoal. I live in an apartment so I need to keep the smell down. Is it better to blow air out instead? I would have to reverse the blower and filter outside the tent. I have seen that setup.... but again, I would think it better to control heat blowing it. I'm new

The wires have been moved since the photo and the blower straighten. I was wondering how hot the LEDs get. I will have to do better than just lying them on top.

MrCannabisExplains said:

Posts like these are exactly why i made my tutorial. To show not just what to do, but why, so you can use your own judgement to problem solve your particular issues. :) The first 2 modules are here on YouTube:

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Thank you! Will give it a watch!

I think we may try to Bonsai one of these, that video looked fun. Not so much as a plant to smoke but a piece of living art.

Thanks again everyone. Time to get ready for work. UG, weekends suck

MrCannabisExplains said:

I can't tell if this is a joke or not. I haven't been here long enough to know whether this is a just a troll account, with all the clown references, or if this is an actual, serious opinion...

Click to expand...

Bro, I’m one of the nicest folks you will run into here, the whole clown thing?
It’s just how I roll, I mean no harm, and I’m just trying to help out.
Context homie! I was legit giving you good info been doing this 25 years.
Holler and good luck.

PianoStan said:

@Captspaulding is definitely a serious account. I assume he is a big fan of the Rob Zombie franchise (me too) His is some of the most sought after advice on this forum. He certainly has an impressive collection of plants. I'm way too new to growing to contradict what he says about growing. I just know that going all in on plant chemistry has led me to a competent first grow.

But I'm also not growing in soil, so maybe it is less problematic there. IDK.

Click to expand...

I am a huge fan! it’s tough to spot I know

If you are in/near the twin cities, you have local options. Tropical Fish/Aquarium stores will carry pH strips, and they can tell you about your area’s water chemistry, including the pH. You can get pH info from your city. In Minneapolis, in 2023, city water supply pH averaged 9.06 and is medium hard. (https://www.minneapolismn.gov/resident-services/utility-services/water/water-quality/)

Growing is legal in your neck of the woods. There are several stores and gardening shops in the cities that specialize in growing cannabis. Do a quick google search for marijuana grow supplies. They might even be inclined to barter for your services. They can talk to you about growing in your local water. I do not think it’s a problem, but they will know for sure.

Oh, test strips are inexpensive, 240 strips under $6 on Amazon. Better to waste $6 to find out whether or not you want a pen, then spend $100+ and a broken glass probe and calibration solution and cleaner to find out the same thing.

First grow, keep it simple.

WickedMichelle said:

Ocean forest.... Ocean-Fish.... that is what I meant Someone posted that this soil is a no-brainier when it comes to PH. Basically plant and water.

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That's a good soil! Pretty bullet proof.

Captspaulding said:

I am a huge fan! it’s tough to spot I know

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Definitely super subtle!

WickedMichelle said:

No, just in. Air in and through the inside filter. Air in will help regulate the heat and humidity. I can put another hose on top if needed however there will not be any real force behind the outflow. There is nothing on the filter for exhaust except through the charcoal. I live in an apartment so I need to keep the smell down. Is it better to blow air out instead? I would have to reverse the blower and filter outside the tent. I have seen that setup.... but again, I would think it better to control heat blowing it. I'm new

The wires have been moved since the photo and the blower straighten. I was wondering how hot the LEDs get. I will have to do better than just lying them on top.

Click to expand...

Turn your fan around, so that it sucks air from inside of the top of the tent, and blows the hot air out. If it goes Carbon filter > fan > Exhaust, it will filter out the smell. Then, open one of the holes on the bottom of the tent so that air can flow in, so that you can get Carbon Dioxide into the tent, and you're almost done.

Since you are growing photo-periods, take a short length of the flexible exhaust hose, and put it through the open hole at the bottom of the tent, and bend it so that light can't get in during your critical 12/12 period, and the air set-up will be right as rain!

As for those cables, I use twist ties to keep them short, and free hanging. Especially on the cords holding the light. You will be moving that from time to time. Anything that is stationary, you could zip-tie for cable management, but not entirely necessary.

ccoki said:

Even if you run organic it's like...why would you add the extra stress of something being out of range? Just because it can stabilize (if you're putting the work in for that anyway) doesn't mean it should. Plus when problems inevitably arise at some point in the entire journey of growing, you won't be scrambling. pH is one of the things youre probably going to want to check should something start going wrong.

I keep drops and a bulk bag of pH down and measuring spoons. Rols grower.

Click to expand...

I agree. as a new indoor grower and someone really trying to learn the ins and outs, it took me a few months with out it but I finally got curious enough on my and am slowly seeing some issues with my plants where knowing the Ph might add one more piece to the puzzle : )

Captspaulding said:

In soil?
Ph is useless,
You can just pay attention to your plants health. If something is off water wise, and the plant reacts poorly, then ph’ing water isn’t going to change anything. crazy alkaline or acidic water would be the only reason to ever use it.
Meaning the water source would be toxic to even us and our pets.
It’s incredibly rare to see ph issues being the main driver of problems in soil.

Click to expand...

Do you think it could help paint an overall picture? At first I wanted nothing to do with Ph and reading here it isn’t really necessary ( I know your opinion about it ). Why im asking is i have a couple plants that are starting to show some signs of something lol and if I know the Ph maybe I could rule out couple things out the gate. Or is this just my lack of experience in what the plant is telling me?

WickedMichelle said:

Ocean forest.... Ocean-Fish.... that is what I meant Someone posted that this soil is a no-brainier when it comes to PH. Basically plant and water.

Click to expand...

Ocean Forest is fine, and has enough nutrients to get the plants off to a good start. I recommend amending it with plenty of perlite, for an approximate mixture of 70% OF and 30% perlite. I also add a few other amendments, including Azomite, gypsum, Epsom salt, potassium silicate and maybe some kelp fertilizer. For organic nutrients during vegetation, I add Gaia Green General Purpose (4-4-4) and, during flowering, I add Gaia Green Power Bloom (2-8-4).

WickedMichelle said:

The tap water here I will not drink LOL. I have been reading the differences between tap and distilled waters. I think I should be ok with our tap water if I let it sit for 24 hours or so. I can pick up some PH strips, that is no biggie. I don't think... I have not priced them yet.

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When using organic growing methods, most tap water should be fine. The microbes in symbiotic relationship with the plant's roots solve the pH problem. I'd only consider testing the pH of the water if there were a problem.

Minerals dissolved in tap water, such as magnesium or calcium, can benefit the plant. So, when using distilled water that lacks those minerals, there would be a need to add them by supplementing the nutrients.

---

From planting seeds to curing, the first crop provides answers to many questions. Carefully watch your plants grow and take notes and pictures. Ask questions along the way. Enjoy the journey.

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DougV said:

If you are in/near the twin cities, you have local options. Tropical Fish/Aquarium stores will carry pH strips, and they can tell you about your area’s water chemistry, including the pH. You can get pH info from your city. In Minneapolis, in 2023, city water supply pH averaged 9.06 and is medium hard. (https://www.minneapolismn.gov/resident-services/utility-services/water/water-quality/)

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I dont know if it is like this everywhere, maybe it is different in some places. But a lot of people also just take a bottle of their tap water into a pool store where they have a water testing unit for public use. They test their water once in a place like this and keep the results on hand.
As for the information from the website, this is how I figured out whether or not my local water had just Chlorine haha. A very good tip. I looked up where my water supply came from, and looked up their website, and their website even had recent water tests available for people to view. That is a very good tip, to check the water supply website, because that's exactly what I did :).

WickedMichelle said:

Um, no. Just sucking in. This blower/fan.... sucks air in or out, not both that I can see. I have it so it filters air in to help control the heat. I have all the other holes closed off to control the smell. I live in an apartment. I have the tent close to a window, I can get another vent hose and run one from the top out the window. I would need an adapter though. Is this necessary? If so I can look into that as well. Or I can get another filter and have it on the outflow as well as the inflow of air. The blower will not blow the air out though... it blows directly into the inside filter.







No, just in. Air in and through the inside filter. Air in will help regulate the heat and humidity. I can put another hose on top if needed however there will not be any real force behind the outflow. There is nothing on the filter for exhaust except through the charcoal. I live in an apartment so I need to keep the smell down. Is it better to blow air out instead? I would have to reverse the blower and filter outside the tent. I have seen that setup.... but again, I would think it better to control heat blowing it. I'm new

Click to expand...

You want the fan at the top of your tent blowing air out of the tent. You need to blow the stale air out.
Open a flap at the bottom of your tent, this will create negative pressure and your fan, while blowing out, will pull fresh air into the tent through the flap at the bottom. This is called a passive intake system.
Here is some good information on grow tent ventilation setup.

BudRanger1919 said:

But a lot of people also just take a bottle of their tap water into a pool store

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Good point. I think they’ll test hardness, too.

FWIW, hardness is an indicator of buffering potential. Better is when they list CaCO3. Generally if water is hard and pH high, it has high buffering potential. CaCO3 is a better indicator. It has 4 ranges from soft to very hard. The higher the number, the greater the buffering potential. 0-60 soft, 60-120 moderate hard, 120-180 Hard, 180+ very hard.

If you care about pH then you need to care about buffering potential/hardness. Buffering for this purpose is the capacity to maintain pH. PH high but CaCO3 is 30, who cares. It lacks buffering potential so any acidic environments quickly acidify your water. Water that comes from a limestone aquifer, howdy Texas hill country, might have a pH of 9 and a CaCO3 hardness of 240. You’ll have to buy pH down by the gallon to overcome that. Worse you’ll think you’ve got the pH down only to check it the next day and the pH has bounced right back up.

Is this important? Beats me. It can be critical for newborn pigs and tropical fish. It would indicate you could potentially have pH issues in soil if pH is high and hardness is vey high, and like Paul Harvey would say, it is the rest of the story.