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So The Diy Undercurrent Begins

  • Thread starter Thread starter Shawnery
  • Start date Start date Jul 13, 2018
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So The Diy Undercurrent Begins

Shawnery Jul 13, 2018 208 Replies 43,115 Views
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DGP

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#81
Mr.jiujitsu said:
Could you pm me some more photos and information on this setup? I have been working on a dwc setup- I would love to have a conversation with you about it. Silly, but I want a 2 pot recirculating system for a legal tent grow at home and a larger hobby build at the new shop.
Click to expand...

I can PM as well but there is a thread I built for a complete DIY setup for an 8 bucket RDWC UC system in the hydro topic forum. It is cheap to build (minus the chiller) at about 300-350 US for a 8 site. However, I would suggest adding the modifications that Heisenbubble shows such as two 2" exits to the control (epi) bucket etc. It can be sized to anything from 2 buckets to 16 or more. Easy as hell to build and very effective and durable. These systems are easy to run as well if you have a chiller and your environment is well controlled. I could leave my room for 1 - 2 weeks and not worry because there is a top off reservoir (not shown in the original design but easy to add).
The system shown below id for very short veg cycles but in the room it is currently in I could go to 4 buckets or even two depending on how long I let them veg before I move them into the flower room. I have a UC setup in veg as well....

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...formance-under-current-for-300-or-less.94487/
 
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DGP

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#82
DGP said:
I can PM as well but there is a thread I built for a complete DIY setup for an 8 bucket RDWC UC system in the hydro topic forum. It is cheap to build (minus the chiller) at about 300-350 US for a 8 site. However, I would suggest adding the modifications that Heisenbubble shows such as two 2" exits to the control (epi) bucket etc. It can be sized to anything from 2 buckets to 16 or more. Easy as hell to build and very effective and durable. These systems are easy to run as well if you have a chiller and your environment is well controlled. I could leave my room for 1 - 2 weeks and not worry because there is a top off reservoir (not shown in the original design but easy to add).
The system shown below id for very short veg cycles but in the room it is currently in I could go to 4 buckets or even two depending on how long I let them veg before I move them into the flower room. I have a UC setup in veg as well....

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...formance-under-current-for-300-or-less.94487/
View attachment 815387
Click to expand...

Sorry I thought that request was directed at me but it was Heisenbubble, but yes follow his advice if you build a UC he knows his shit.
 
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G gnome

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#83
heisenbubble said:
Dont know why people trying to peddle backwards when this is really not that difficult.what your doing now I have already done and it dont work.
Click to expand...

Better get used to giving good advise and ppl disregarding it haha.

Often i will see a thread know exactly how to fix the issue and the op w overlook my advise to listen to some schmuck because its what they wanted to hear haha
 
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heisen

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#84
It's an aquarium filter,my res stays sparkly clean.all my nutes including calmag stay mixed in the top.off res.i add 2 ml of hydroguard per gallon to this mix and less the older it gets.



Freinds dont let freinds drive dwc with spaghetti clump roots. Lol

 
Last edited: Jul 14, 2018
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Mr.jiujitsu

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#85
heisenbubble said:
It's an aquarium filter,my res stays sparkly clean.all my nutes including calmag stay mixed in the top.off res.

View attachment 815429

Freinds dont let freinds drive dwc with spaghetti clump roots. Lol

View attachment 815433
Click to expand...


Carbon polishing the water. Lol while more complex systems we do this in biopharm.
 
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heisen

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#86
G gnome said:
Better get used to giving good advise and ppl disregarding it haha.

Often i will see a thread know exactly how to fix the issue and the op w overlook my advise to listen to some schmuck because its what they wanted to hear haha
Click to expand...
Seems to be the case more often than not,people asking for advice and disagreeing until they hear what they want to hear.like telling your home boy about a woman that's no good,wont listen till they see it for themselves.
 
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Shawnery

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#87
So my big scree up with this build like I said a million times is nothing but uniseals and 5 gallons of water per container, everything else is identical. If that's my big failure this go i can live with that.

The water usage can be fixed even with these buckets but i agree that would be a bandaid. But then again if i grow 5' plants again, though I doubt it, they'll be perfect.

I agree based on your observation what the issues can be but as I said before, I'm a far cry from going backwards!

Heisen, why do you put your cooler so far from the epi? Not judging just interested if there was a reason beyond just because.
 
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heisen

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#88
Shawnery said:
So my big scree up with this build like I said a million times is nothing but uniseals and 5 gallons of water per container, everything else is identical. If that's my big failure this go i can live with that.

The water usage can be fixed even with these buckets but i agree that would be a bandaid. But then again if i grow 5' plants again, though I doubt it, they'll be perfect.

I agree based on your observation what the issues can be but as I said before, I'm a far cry from going backwards!

Heisen, why do you put your cooler so far from the epi? Not judging just interested if there was a reason beyond just because.
Click to expand...
Its closest to the pickup on the pump that goes to the cooler.i want the shortest distance possible from the pump to the cooler.i dont have a technical reason other than this is the way I have always done it.i usually insulate the line that comes from the chiller.picture is when I just built it.i cut all the pipes and glued everything in a different room and just assembled it in that room.
 
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heisen

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#89
Oh shit now I remember lol,cause I can pull the hose out of the epi bucket and walk it over to my drain when I empty the system.i knew there was a reason I did it.i just needed the long hose from the chiller.
I also can walk the hose to my water valve, screw it in, and back flush the system and chiller when I clean everything out.puts 60psi on my pump and chiller in reverse.i run bleach for 12 hrs than refill and empty a couple times and than completely drain.
Refill the system and start over.
 
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heisen

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#90
I also start my cuts in totes and I can just use the same hoses for intake and the hose that returns back to the hose.i dont have to change none of the plumbing.i use alot less power starting cuts in totes for a couple weeks before I move them to the big buckets.they take a week to get there roots going and another to really take off.
 
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Shawnery

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#91
Not arguing but trying to understand.

Is there a reason you couldn't put the pump closer to the epi. Just have longer hose from the T to the pump and then put the cooler right next to the epi?

The reason I was asking is because that was my plan. I'd put 2" pipe from the T to the bottom of the epi outside of the tent. This would be about an extra 5 feet of pipe than if in the tent. Then from the other T I would run 1" reducer to the valve then to the 1" hose then to the pump. After the pump I would run about 3' of 1" hose to the cooler then from the cooler a 1" hose to the top of the epi.

Any ideas why this is not a good idea?
 
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heisen

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#92
Shawnery said:
Not arguing but trying to understand.

Is there a reason you couldn't put the pump closer to the epi. Just have longer hose from the T to the pump and then put the cooler right next to the epi?

The reason I was asking is because that was my plan. I'd put 2" pipe from the T to the bottom of the epi outside of the tent. This would be about an extra 5 feet of pipe than if in the tent. Then from the other T I would run 1" reducer to the valve then to the 1" hose then to the pump. After the pump I would run about 3' of 1" hose to the cooler then from the cooler a 1" hose to the top of the epi.

Any ideas why this is not a good idea?
Click to expand...
Check out my other 3 post,its been so long since I designed it the way I did I knew there was a reason
 
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heisen

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#93
Shawnery said:
Not arguing but trying to understand.

Is there a reason you couldn't put the pump closer to the epi. Just have longer hose from the T to the pump and then put the cooler right next to the epi?

The reason I was asking is because that was my plan. I'd put 2" pipe from the T to the bottom of the epi outside of the tent. This would be about an extra 5 feet of pipe than if in the tent. Then from the other T I would run 1" reducer to the valve then to the 1" hose then to the pump. After the pump I would run about 3' of 1" hose to the cooler then from the cooler a 1" hose to the top of the epi.

Any ideas why this is not a good idea?
Click to expand...
The less air you have to bleed from the line the better.you want the pump close to your pick up or it will just dry cycle until it grabs water.might take longer to kick start the system but theres no reason you cant do it either eay.
I just prefer the long hose from the chiller so I can use it to drain and clean the system
 
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Shawnery

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#94
Just did the math and each tote will only hold 5 1/2g subtracting the lid that drops 1", the net cup is 2.5" and then the 2" space once the roots drop. The math above comes down to 6.5, actually a little more, gallons of water.

That leaves a total of only 50 gallons being held by all 9 totes, believe it or not. It's amazing what remains when you subtract the dead space. My only system held 30g so I wont even be doubling the amount of solution. The 1/4hp cooler should be fine for that.

When I'm just stating out it will be around 7 gallons. By the time enough water has evaporated or been consumed the roots should be in the water.

Once I get it all together we'll see if the math and the liquid match.

Thanks again for all the help! Even if I don't listen to it all I still appreciate it greatly. I don't start these threads to find answers. I start these threads to come to a conclusion of my own. It may seem disrespectful but it's not personal against you its personal in terms of the learning process, just like when I was a kid!
 
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#95
Little further
 

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heisen

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#96
Take an empty tote and fill it up 1 gallon at a time to your desired level.Multiply by how many totes.this will give a good number on how to mix your nutes.
I did this with my buckets.just took an empty on and filled one gallon at a time till I hit the level and multiplied it.
I think your gonna be around 8 gallons a tote.
 
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heisen

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#97
Also the chiller and pipes will hold around 4 gallons
 
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Shawnery

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#98
Yeah the pipes will add a bit and the chiller will as well. I measured out the math and used a calculator to find the cubic inches and then convert that to gallons. It will be interesting to see what the different is in the end.
 
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#99
Initially, believe it or not, the main reason for choosing shorter, wider and longer totes was for possible clogging issues from the roots.
 
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DGP

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#100
Paint the outside of those lids with some flat black spray bomb or they will grow green stuff in the water. I know cause I had a top off res that let light in and it doesn't take much to make lots of algae and slime:).

I want to see you fill it cause I am really hoping you have zero leaks.

I have some really big root bundles and have not suffered a clog but have been concerned about it.

Dee
 
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Replies 208
Views 43,115
Started Jul 13, 2018
Latest post Mar 31, 2020
Starter Shawnery
Forum Under Current - RDWC Growers Alliance

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