Log In Register

Soil PH 5.3 should I Ph up?

  • Thread starter Thread starter zoneman
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

Soil PH 5.3 should I Ph up?

zoneman 56 Replies 12,457 Views
Page 3 of 3 · Replies 41–57 of 57
Sulphur when mixed with water forms sulfuric acid. It's a "soil acidifier" and what people who grow blueberries would use to keep the soil pH of their mixes between 4.8 and 5.2.

What does this mean? It means you were giving the lime something to react with and might be the very reason your soil pH didn't get out of control.
Well I do use Superphosphate and I guess this will reduce the ph level.
not at all stages but this or bonemeal in late veg/flower, the dry plant food could be reducing the pH and the lime puts it back in range, my compost also has a high amount of peatmoss(low pH)
 
Sweet......I mean....tart.

I've read about things like coffee grounds, banana peels, making various teas. I tend to agree that we often make Ph a bigger issue than it probably is. If you've got a Ph problem that's really out of line and affecting the plants, there's probably something more fundamentally wrong that needs to be fixed. A real water problem........too much fertilizer/buildup, bad soil.....and these things are not easily "fixable". They could require a re-start. Minor Ph adjustments are probably more for "dialing it in". If you're at 6.8 or 6.1 and want to get it into a zone you're striving for.
Bingo - you got that correct.

Minor pH issues can be addressed by dialing things in. However trying to grow cannabis in blueberry soil isn't a minor pH issue. Its pretty major, although the plant didn't look so large or so damaged that it should be tossed .... just transplanted into a more suitable mix.
 
Well I do use Superphosphate and I guess this will reduce the ph level.
not at all stages but this or bonemeal in late veg/flower, the dry plant food could be reducing the pH and the lime puts it back in range, my compost also has a high amount of peatmoss(low pH)
You were producing a tug-o-war and actually the by-products of these reactions are plant absorb-able. This type of method works well at the agricultural level in farming. It's much harder to do in a 5 gallon container.
 
P
You were producing a tug-o-war and actually the by-products of these reactions are plant absorb-able. This type of method works well at the agricultural level in farming. It's much harder to do in a 5 gallon container.

Sweet......I mean....tart.

I've read about things like coffee grounds, banana peels, making various teas. I tend to agree that we often make Ph a bigger issue than it probably is. If you've got a Ph problem that's really out of line and affecting the plants, there's probably something more fundamentally wrong that needs to be fixed. A real water problem........too much fertilizer/buildup, bad soil.....and these things are not easily "fixable". They could require a re-start. Minor Ph adjustments are probably more for "dialing it in". If you're at 6.8 or 6.1 and want to get it into a zone you're striving for.
Trail and error, using the same compost and dry plant food for years, making improvements each time.
So many variables, even the temps and humidity can effect the uptake of water vs plant food.
 
Trail and error, using the same compost and dry plant food for years, making improvements each time.
So many variables, even the temps and humidity can effect the uptake of water vs plant food.
Temp + humidity is the basis of vpd. Understanding how this works and using it to your advantage will automatically make you a better indoor farmer.
 
Well I do use Superphosphate and I guess this will reduce the ph level.
not at all stages but this or bonemeal in late veg/flower, the dry plant food could be reducing the pH and the lime puts it back in range, my compost also has a high amount of peatmoss(low pH)
Been testing with sta-green enhanced calcitic lime using 8 cups lime to 3 cubic ft peat moss, 3 cubic ft black cow manure compost & 2 cubic perlite, after couple of water flushes, ph reading 6.4-6.5 with well water
 
Promix uses both Calcitic Lime, and Dolomite in its BX, and HP product.

They use 2/3 parts Calcitic to 1/3 parts Dolomite.

Ive had great success using both Calcitic, and Dolomite for 20 years. Its just a matter of balance.

Sphagnum Moss has a PH of 4.0.

Promix BX, and HP buffer out at 5.8-6.2 PH. Ive noticed its usually closer to 6.2.



Commercial growers can expect uniform and predictable plant growth with PRO-MIX BX.

This very popular, general purpose growing medium offers the perfect balance between nutrient retention and proper drainage. Ideal for greenhouse use and transplanting applications. Includes mycorrhizae for increased root mass, flower production, plant size and yield.
Benefits:
• High water-holding capacity
• Light-weight, low bulk‑density
• Chock-full of beneficial mycorrhizae
• Vermiculite improves nutrient retention
• Answers the needs of most growing applications
Available in a 3.8 cubic foot bale.
Ingredients:
Sphagnum peat moss (75-85%), perlite, vermiculite, dolomitic and calcitic limestone (for pH adjustment), wetting agent and mycorrhizae – endomycorrhizal fungi (Glomus intraradices).



HP HIGH POROSITY With its high perlite content, PRO-MIX® HP provides a porous environment for growers wanting high air porosity, low water retention and good drainage. The added benefit of fibrous peat moss and coarse perlite makes this formulation ideal for growers who require a superior-quality product adapted to their needs for watering flexibility and crop seasonality. For growers seeking high water retention, drainage and good air porosity, PRO-MIX® HPCC is the solution. A quality blend of fibrous peat moss, unique chunk coir and perlite. Chunk coir resists compaction and holds water for plant roots to access, combined with peat moss and perlite forming a growing medium that promotes plant growth and root development. HPCC HIGH POROSITY CHUNK COIR INGREDIENTS: • Canadian Sphagnum peat moss (65-75% by volume) • Perlite — horticultural grade • Calcitic and dolomitic limestone (pH adjuster) • Wetting agent
 
8 cups is 4lbs of garden lime. I wouldn't even use it in the first place. Dolomite is much better.

Are you trying to save a plant that got planted in a blueberry soil?

Transplant it into suitable soil. You're done ... all this messing around and trying to change the pH of the soil with a plant already in it will drive you into the nuthouse. $15 a bag in my area FFoF $14 a bag in my area Roots Organic Original. Buy the mix and save the gray hairs.

You can learn to compost while you're tending to your baby
8 cup in 8 cubic foot
 
Promix uses both Calcitic Lime, and Dolomite in its BX, and HP product.

They use 2/3 parts Calcitic to 1/3 parts Dolomite.

Ive had great success using both Calcitic, and Dolomite for 20 years. Its just a matter of balance.

Sphagnum Moss has a PH of 4.0.

Promix BX, and HP buffer out at 5.8-6.2 PH. Ive noticed its usually closer to 6.2.



Commercial growers can expect uniform and predictable plant growth with PRO-MIX BX.

This very popular, general purpose growing medium offers the perfect balance between nutrient retention and proper drainage. Ideal for greenhouse use and transplanting applications. Includes mycorrhizae for increased root mass, flower production, plant size and yield.
Benefits:
• High water-holding capacity
• Light-weight, low bulk‑density
• Chock-full of beneficial mycorrhizae
• Vermiculite improves nutrient retention
• Answers the needs of most growing applications
Available in a 3.8 cubic foot bale.
Ingredients:
Sphagnum peat moss (75-85%), perlite, vermiculite, dolomitic and calcitic limestone (for pH adjustment), wetting agent and mycorrhizae – endomycorrhizal fungi (Glomus intraradices).



HP HIGH POROSITY With its high perlite content, PRO-MIX® HP provides a porous environment for growers wanting high air porosity, low water retention and good drainage. The added benefit of fibrous peat moss and coarse perlite makes this formulation ideal for growers who require a superior-quality product adapted to their needs for watering flexibility and crop seasonality. For growers seeking high water retention, drainage and good air porosity, PRO-MIX® HPCC is the solution. A quality blend of fibrous peat moss, unique chunk coir and perlite. Chunk coir resists compaction and holds water for plant roots to access, combined with peat moss and perlite forming a growing medium that promotes plant growth and root development. HPCC HIGH POROSITY CHUNK COIR INGREDIENTS: • Canadian Sphagnum peat moss (65-75% by volume) • Perlite — horticultural grade • Calcitic and dolomitic limestone (pH adjuster) • Wetting agent
Great information, thanks
 
Great information, thanks
To amend 1 cubic foot of Peat Moss use 4.2 ounces of Calcitic Lime, and 2.3 ounces of Dolomite. This should bring it up to the PH weed likes. You can also add 1 cubic foot of Vermiculite, and 1 cubic foot or perlite. And a wetting agent.

Or make it easy on yourself, and buy some Promix BX. It can save a lot of headaches. I prefer BX vs HP. BX holds water longer.
 
Because its too strong. Caustic ... in agriculture, its typically used in a lbs per acre situation based on the results of your soil test. It's fine at that kind of concentration. In a small container, even 1 tablespoon of garden lime is A LOT!

Dolomite lime really isn't "lime" in the most traditional sense. It does not have the ability to raise the soil pH out of range. Garden lime keeps on working well past pH of 7.0 ... especially with multiple feedings.
The name "Dolomite" can be applied to any stonemeal deriven from, at least, 90% of dolomite. Still leaving open 10% for (presumably) CaCO3. Which will raise the pH. I also wonder how you want to adjust the pH from acidic when your amendment isn't alkaline to begin with. My own dolomite here tests alkaline when dissolved in RO.
Furthermore, you cannot take outdoor recommendations for soil amendments and apply them over to indoor mixes. Outdoor soil consists of mostly mineralic content, sandy loam, silt, sand, clay etc. Indoor potting mixes are peat, cocos or compost based and hold 10 times the amount of organic compounds. Here, the chemistry works differently. Many outdoor soils already are at a natural pH of 8 which still works well with rainwater and a pH decrease from organic composting/mineralization and root exudates to mobilize this stuff. Any kind of lime has a low water solubility and thus needs to be mobilized by the plant ie. its ingredients are firstly not available to the plant at all. So it's fine to use any kind of calcium- or magnesiumcarbonates which can be deriven from a number of sources.
 
Both calcium and magnesium are best absorbed around 6.5 pH.
No, they are actually better absorbed in a slightly alkaline or neutral pH range, but still 6.2-6.8 is recommended for Cannabis in indoor mixes (make that 6-7,5 outdoors) as the plant needs anions as well...
 
To amend 1 cubic foot of Peat Moss use 4.2 ounces of Calcitic Lime, and 2.3 ounces of Dolomite. This should bring it up to the PH weed likes.
In a 5 gallon bucket of peat, you would add 1/5 of a cup of lime. Which is 45 grams. 30 grams Calcitic x 15 grams of Dolomite. You could also add 1 gallon Perlite, and .6 of a gallon of vermiculite. Plus peat needs a wetting agent. Promix has everything.

Therm X 70 is a good surfactant. You should only need to use it once if applied correctly.

Make it easy on yourself, and buy some Promix BX. It can save a lot of headaches. I prefer BX vs HP. BX holds water longer.
 
In my neck of te woods, in E Kentucky, the soil runs acidic, and clay. Dolomite can cause the soil to turn to concrete if you use too much. Calcitic lime doesnt turn to concrete, and is best for clay soil. But dolomite can also be used if combined in smaller amunts with calcitic. Like I said 2/3 calcitic to 1/3 parts dolomite.

Excessive magnesium (contained in dolomite) can be detrimental by (1) causing some clay soils to crust, reducing aeration, (2) releasing soil nitrogen by causing formation of gaseous nitrogen oxides, (3) causing both phosphorus and potassium deficiencies in the soil, (4) causing effects similar to magnesium deficiency, (5) combining with aluminum to form a substance in plants toxic to livestock, (6) long with low calcium, allowing organic matter to form alcohol and formaldehyde when it decays, killing soil bacteria, (7) interfering with plants’ absorption of calcium and potassium, and (8) by taking the place of calcium in plant cells, giving rise to poor quality crops.”

What are The Benefits of Calcitic Lime?​

Calcitic lime has long been the preferred treatment for acidic soil. A thorough application of pulverized limestone tilled into the soil raises the pH to a neutral level, increasing crop yields and improving overall soil health.

The main “ingredient” in calcitic lime is calcium carbonate, which is why many people ask if calcium carbonate is the same as limestone. It counteracts the acidification of field soil. Acidification is the natural result of nitrogen heavy fertilizing practices. By adding a lime treatment, you can undo the damage caused by nitrogen treatments without counteracting the benefits.

In addition to neutralizing pH, lime also encourages the growth of micro-organisms that contribute to plant health. With the combination of helpful micro-organisms and pH balanced soil, plants and crops will thrive.

Calcitic lime works effectively, even with one treatment. Although waiting for the treatment to become fully effective requires some patience, if you plant your fields every year, calcitic lime will likely be the only treatment you’ll need to balance the pH level.

Calcitic lime also works more quickly than dolomite lime: Calcium carbonate is better at balancing pHs than magnesium carbonate, and calcitic lime contains much higher levels of calcium carbonate than dolomite lime.

What are Calcitic Lime’s Limitations?​

Typical calcitic lime treatments require some patience. If you apply dry calcitic lime on a dry field, you will need to wait for rain for the treatment to work. Water is required for the chemical process to begin.

You must also till the soil immediately after the lime application. Lime sitting on the surface of your soil will not be nearly as effective as lime that is well mixed into the soil.

But the main drawback to calcitic lime is its simplicity. It is designed to neutralize pH and replace depleted calcium in the soil, and it won’t replace depleted magnesium. If your fields are producing magnesium deficient crops, you will find that calcitic lime treatments won’t improve your crop health.

However, these are special conditions. Most soils only need calcitic lime as their magnesium levels are already optimal. For most applications, calcitic lime is best. But you should always double-check the mineral content in your soil just to be sure.

What are the Benefits of Dolomite Lime?​

When it comes to raising and balancing the pH of your soil, both calcitic and dolomite lime are effective. However, unlike calcitic lime, dolomite lime also contains large amounts of magnesium. Magnesium is an essential mineral for healthy soil.

Grass tetany, a metabolic disease affecting cattle and sheep livestock, is distinguished by magnesium deficiency. Fast growing spring grass will often be devoid of the magnesium livestock need to survive, making dolomite lime an important consideration if you are using your fields for livestock grazing.

Magnesium deficient plants are often yellower, have shorter root systems, and produce noticeably lower yields than plants grown in healthy soil. Fields home to crops that are taxing on potassium levels — such as corn fields — can also benefit from magnesium treatments.

If your field contains a calcium-to-magnesium ratio of 6:1 or greater, your field is considered to be magnesium deficient, and you should strongly consider using dolomite lime to bring your mineral balance into balance. Proper calcium-to-magnesium ratios are important for ensuring healthy growth

Peat is deficient in both Magnesium, and Calcium, which is why Promix has both.
 
The name "Dolomite" can be applied to any stonemeal deriven from, at least, 90% of dolomite. Still leaving open 10% for (presumably) CaCO3. Which will raise the pH. I also wonder how you want to adjust the pH from acidic when your amendment isn't alkaline to begin with. My own dolomite here tests alkaline when dissolved in RO.
Furthermore, you cannot take outdoor recommendations for soil amendments and apply them over to indoor mixes. Outdoor soil consists of mostly mineralic content, sandy loam, silt, sand, clay etc. Indoor potting mixes are peat, cocos or compost based and hold 10 times the amount of organic compounds. Here, the chemistry works differently. Many outdoor soils already are at a natural pH of 8 which still works well with rainwater and a pH decrease from organic composting/mineralization and root exudates to mobilize this stuff. Any kind of lime has a low water solubility and thus needs to be mobilized by the plant ie. its ingredients are firstly not available to the plant at all. So it's fine to use any kind of calcium- or magnesiumcarbonates which can be deriven from a number of sources.
Would it be better to use Dolomite or a pH up solution to bring a indoor ProMix BX medium back in range?
 
Page 3 of 3 · Replies 41–57 of 57
Back
Top Bottom