Well I do use Superphosphate and I guess this will reduce the ph level.Sulphur when mixed with water forms sulfuric acid. It's a "soil acidifier" and what people who grow blueberries would use to keep the soil pH of their mixes between 4.8 and 5.2.
What does this mean? It means you were giving the lime something to react with and might be the very reason your soil pH didn't get out of control.
Bingo - you got that correct.Sweet......I mean....tart.
I've read about things like coffee grounds, banana peels, making various teas. I tend to agree that we often make Ph a bigger issue than it probably is. If you've got a Ph problem that's really out of line and affecting the plants, there's probably something more fundamentally wrong that needs to be fixed. A real water problem........too much fertilizer/buildup, bad soil.....and these things are not easily "fixable". They could require a re-start. Minor Ph adjustments are probably more for "dialing it in". If you're at 6.8 or 6.1 and want to get it into a zone you're striving for.
You were producing a tug-o-war and actually the by-products of these reactions are plant absorb-able. This type of method works well at the agricultural level in farming. It's much harder to do in a 5 gallon container.Well I do use Superphosphate and I guess this will reduce the ph level.
not at all stages but this or bonemeal in late veg/flower, the dry plant food could be reducing the pH and the lime puts it back in range, my compost also has a high amount of peatmoss(low pH)
Trail and error, using the same compost and dry plant food for years, making improvements each time.P
You were producing a tug-o-war and actually the by-products of these reactions are plant absorb-able. This type of method works well at the agricultural level in farming. It's much harder to do in a 5 gallon container.
Sweet......I mean....tart.
I've read about things like coffee grounds, banana peels, making various teas. I tend to agree that we often make Ph a bigger issue than it probably is. If you've got a Ph problem that's really out of line and affecting the plants, there's probably something more fundamentally wrong that needs to be fixed. A real water problem........too much fertilizer/buildup, bad soil.....and these things are not easily "fixable". They could require a re-start. Minor Ph adjustments are probably more for "dialing it in". If you're at 6.8 or 6.1 and want to get it into a zone you're striving for.
Temp + humidity is the basis of vpd. Understanding how this works and using it to your advantage will automatically make you a better indoor farmer.Trail and error, using the same compost and dry plant food for years, making improvements each time.
So many variables, even the temps and humidity can effect the uptake of water vs plant food.
Vpd is overrated.Temp + humidity is the basis of vpd. Understanding how this works and using it to your advantage will automatically make you a better indoor farmer.
Been testing with sta-green enhanced calcitic lime using 8 cups lime to 3 cubic ft peat moss, 3 cubic ft black cow manure compost & 2 cubic perlite, after couple of water flushes, ph reading 6.4-6.5 with well waterWell I do use Superphosphate and I guess this will reduce the ph level.
not at all stages but this or bonemeal in late veg/flower, the dry plant food could be reducing the pH and the lime puts it back in range, my compost also has a high amount of peatmoss(low pH)
Cut that in half maybe ?That's a lot of calcitic lime.
Here's what's going to happen. the acid from the peat moss and cow manure will exhaust itself first and then the soil pH will start climbing.
8 cup in 8 cubic foot8 cups is 4lbs of garden lime. I wouldn't even use it in the first place. Dolomite is much better.
Are you trying to save a plant that got planted in a blueberry soil?
Transplant it into suitable soil. You're done ... all this messing around and trying to change the pH of the soil with a plant already in it will drive you into the nuthouse. $15 a bag in my area FFoF $14 a bag in my area Roots Organic Original. Buy the mix and save the gray hairs.
You can learn to compost while you're tending to your baby
Great information, thanksPromix uses both Calcitic Lime, and Dolomite in its BX, and HP product.
They use 2/3 parts Calcitic to 1/3 parts Dolomite.
Ive had great success using both Calcitic, and Dolomite for 20 years. Its just a matter of balance.
Sphagnum Moss has a PH of 4.0.
Promix BX, and HP buffer out at 5.8-6.2 PH. Ive noticed its usually closer to 6.2.
Commercial growers can expect uniform and predictable plant growth with PRO-MIX BX.
This very popular, general purpose growing medium offers the perfect balance between nutrient retention and proper drainage. Ideal for greenhouse use and transplanting applications. Includes mycorrhizae for increased root mass, flower production, plant size and yield.
Benefits:
• High water-holding capacity
• Light-weight, low bulk‑density
• Chock-full of beneficial mycorrhizae
• Vermiculite improves nutrient retention
• Answers the needs of most growing applications
Available in a 3.8 cubic foot bale.
Ingredients:
Sphagnum peat moss (75-85%), perlite, vermiculite, dolomitic and calcitic limestone (for pH adjustment), wetting agent and mycorrhizae – endomycorrhizal fungi (Glomus intraradices).
HP HIGH POROSITY With its high perlite content, PRO-MIX® HP provides a porous environment for growers wanting high air porosity, low water retention and good drainage. The added benefit of fibrous peat moss and coarse perlite makes this formulation ideal for growers who require a superior-quality product adapted to their needs for watering flexibility and crop seasonality. For growers seeking high water retention, drainage and good air porosity, PRO-MIX® HPCC is the solution. A quality blend of fibrous peat moss, unique chunk coir and perlite. Chunk coir resists compaction and holds water for plant roots to access, combined with peat moss and perlite forming a growing medium that promotes plant growth and root development. HPCC HIGH POROSITY CHUNK COIR INGREDIENTS: • Canadian Sphagnum peat moss (65-75% by volume) • Perlite — horticultural grade • Calcitic and dolomitic limestone (pH adjuster) • Wetting agent
To amend 1 cubic foot of Peat Moss use 4.2 ounces of Calcitic Lime, and 2.3 ounces of Dolomite. This should bring it up to the PH weed likes. You can also add 1 cubic foot of Vermiculite, and 1 cubic foot or perlite. And a wetting agent.Great information, thanks
The name "Dolomite" can be applied to any stonemeal deriven from, at least, 90% of dolomite. Still leaving open 10% for (presumably) CaCO3. Which will raise the pH. I also wonder how you want to adjust the pH from acidic when your amendment isn't alkaline to begin with. My own dolomite here tests alkaline when dissolved in RO.Because its too strong. Caustic ... in agriculture, its typically used in a lbs per acre situation based on the results of your soil test. It's fine at that kind of concentration. In a small container, even 1 tablespoon of garden lime is A LOT!
Dolomite lime really isn't "lime" in the most traditional sense. It does not have the ability to raise the soil pH out of range. Garden lime keeps on working well past pH of 7.0 ... especially with multiple feedings.
No, they are actually better absorbed in a slightly alkaline or neutral pH range, but still 6.2-6.8 is recommended for Cannabis in indoor mixes (make that 6-7,5 outdoors) as the plant needs anions as well...Both calcium and magnesium are best absorbed around 6.5 pH.
Would it be better to use Dolomite or a pH up solution to bring a indoor ProMix BX medium back in range?The name "Dolomite" can be applied to any stonemeal deriven from, at least, 90% of dolomite. Still leaving open 10% for (presumably) CaCO3. Which will raise the pH. I also wonder how you want to adjust the pH from acidic when your amendment isn't alkaline to begin with. My own dolomite here tests alkaline when dissolved in RO.
Furthermore, you cannot take outdoor recommendations for soil amendments and apply them over to indoor mixes. Outdoor soil consists of mostly mineralic content, sandy loam, silt, sand, clay etc. Indoor potting mixes are peat, cocos or compost based and hold 10 times the amount of organic compounds. Here, the chemistry works differently. Many outdoor soils already are at a natural pH of 8 which still works well with rainwater and a pH decrease from organic composting/mineralization and root exudates to mobilize this stuff. Any kind of lime has a low water solubility and thus needs to be mobilized by the plant ie. its ingredients are firstly not available to the plant at all. So it's fine to use any kind of calcium- or magnesiumcarbonates which can be deriven from a number of sources.
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