indicabush
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^^^^I guess its not only me^^^^but black grow bags, good soil medium and heat generate beneficial microbes.
Ecompost
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was it covered? It is likely a Streptomyces (see below) or Actino bacteria. normally you dont see these as they tend to function at below 5cm soil depth, operating in the mid rhizosphere, but they will under the right conditions :) Streptomyces is a gram positive bacterium with interesting antibiotic antifungal properties. Its a well used bio control of many common white molds among others
Ecompost
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Looks like a Streptomyces mate
Ecompost
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this is a wide variety of beneficials, the brown material likely a glomus mycorrhizae it looks like Intraradices but it is hard to tell, the color intimates it as a beneficial, most pathogenic fungus tending to be clear, the white fuzzy stuff that is a Streptomyces, and you also look to have some Trichoderma fugus, among other soil yeasts such as Actinomyces and Azotobacter
Strepto =
Trichoderma is N fixing plus bio control of many pathogens
Actino/ Azoto Bio Control and N fixing
Mycorrhizae = plant growth esp P, drought protection, chitin stimulation etc etc
Ecompost
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are you cultivating fungus for trees or MJ? I admire what you are doing brother so dont think i dont, but may be look at sourcing more endo Mycos by using a good grass soil, this will be more in keeping with your annual plants biological needs.
Heavily fungal dominant soils will ultimately produce too much N in NH4+ form and so you may find a slower growth rate. IMO I go for a soil which has by weight a ratio of 1.5:1 F:B, many forest soils are way higher in fungal mass, including up to 100:1 in the case of coniferous forest locations. Deciduous forests might give you a 5:1 but you will likely get a drop in bacterial action and so conversion to NO3- which I find MJ likes in equal measure :-)
Fungus secrete acids, acids slow bacterial conversions of Nitrate NO3-.
1:1 - 1.5:1 Fungus to Bacteria by weight is about bang on imo. Buying your mycos from the right company might help :-) not all are equal
scoop
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I'm always switching things up with my teas so I don't worry about not covering all the bases or being too focused in one aspect. I'm the typical hack...LOL. However, I've yet too see any real problems arise in 20 years of brewing and screwing around....but thanks for the tip. In all reality I'm about to be grown right out of my greenhouse so if something slows things down I'm not gonna complain. LOL
As far as weed...right now I'm playing with the Soil Secrets products (Mycos/Terra Pro humus concentrate..EA/EN..Protein Crystals) and am liking what I am seeing in return. Again...I have no real knowledge how/why these may be making a difference other than the positive results I'm seeing in my plants.
As far as weed...right now I'm playing with the Soil Secrets products (Mycos/Terra Pro humus concentrate..EA/EN..Protein Crystals) and am liking what I am seeing in return. Again...I have no real knowledge how/why these may be making a difference other than the positive results I'm seeing in my plants.
Smerb
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[QUOcultivating st, post: 1703328, member: 71887"]are you cultivating fungus for trees or MJ? I admire what you are doing brother so dont think i dont, but may be look at sourcing more endo Mycos by using a good grass soil, this will be more in keeping with your annual plants biological needs.
Heavily l dominant soils will ultimately produce too much N in NH4+ form and so you may find a slower growth rate. IMO I go for a soil which has by weight a ratio of 1.5:1 F:B, many forest soils are way higher in fungal mass, including up to 100:1 in the case of coniferous forest locations. Deciduous forests might give you a 5:1 but you will likely get a drop in bacterial action and so conversion to NO3- which I find MJ likes in equal measure :)
Fungus secrete acids, acids slow bacterial conversions of Nitrate NO3-.
1:1 - 1.5:1 Fungus to Bacteria by weight is about bang on imo. Buying your mycos from the right company might help :) not all are equal[/QUOTE]
Not cultivating fungus. Just forgot about my soil in the garage. It was in a nice tight tupperware container. Mary J needs a good mix for the next transplant. I keep soil. Old school spread out in 100°+ weather to dry out. But left this in garage. I was hoping it was fine. And kinda sure it was, thats why i just left it alone. It has patches on the edges ecompost. Thank you for the detail, its almost 4:20, later.
Heavily l dominant soils will ultimately produce too much N in NH4+ form and so you may find a slower growth rate. IMO I go for a soil which has by weight a ratio of 1.5:1 F:B, many forest soils are way higher in fungal mass, including up to 100:1 in the case of coniferous forest locations. Deciduous forests might give you a 5:1 but you will likely get a drop in bacterial action and so conversion to NO3- which I find MJ likes in equal measure :)
Fungus secrete acids, acids slow bacterial conversions of Nitrate NO3-.
1:1 - 1.5:1 Fungus to Bacteria by weight is about bang on imo. Buying your mycos from the right company might help :) not all are equal[/QUOTE]
Not cultivating fungus. Just forgot about my soil in the garage. It was in a nice tight tupperware container. Mary J needs a good mix for the next transplant. I keep soil. Old school spread out in 100°+ weather to dry out. But left this in garage. I was hoping it was fine. And kinda sure it was, thats why i just left it alone. It has patches on the edges ecompost. Thank you for the detail, its almost 4:20, later.
We Solidarity
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this is a wide variety of beneficials, the brown material likely a glomus mycorrhizae it looks like Intraradices but it is hard to tell, the color intimates it as a beneficial, most pathogenic fungus tending to be clear, the white fuzzy stuff that is a Streptomyces, and you also look to have some Trichoderma fugus, among other soil yeasts such as Actinomyces and Azotobacter
Strepto =awesome soil antibiotic/ bio control of white molds, sclerotinia etc
Trichoderma is N fixing plus bio control of many pathogens
Actino/ Azoto Bio Control and N fixing
Mycorrhizae = plant growth esp P, drought protection, chitin stimulation etc etc
that's awesome to know. I didn't even consider it could be a diverse collection of fungus, I'm super happy to hear that as this crop was consistently fed at relatively high fertilizer rates, which I didn't think was good for microbes.
Ecompost
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depends bro, if you grow in soil-less media eg low cec easy flush no hold style, then adding in is crucial. Equally if you grow in super soil this is also true depending on the rates of decay and types of organic inputs.
Microbes need Nitrogen, it is crucial we add the Bio N to get at the Organic N, not enough Bio N means the plant will suffer as the microbes will rob the N from the soil and not give it up.
So any organic you add, say for example Kelp Meal, means you need to have available N for microbes to begin getting in to it, you need to note this Kelp takes time to decay, if you dont have any N for the microbes, you will never decay it. Kelp as with all Organics has a Carbon number. It is the carbon to nitrogen ratio that determines the rate of decay. So Kelp being 19:1 C:N this tells us how long before the kelp is ready as plant food eg ions not organics. It tells us we must add the figure in lest we suffer a shortfall for our plants. Until the Kelp is decayed, it is worthless. 19:1 is anywhere from 2 weeks to about 2 months to decay. Rates of decay are also based on temps and moisture levels. The higher the root temps, the faster decay can happen to a point. Same with moisture levels, too wet no good, too dry no good, about 40-60% is bang on.
If you let you media dry, your microbes will stall and your n levels will drop, along with everything else.
People growing in soil for real need to know about Carbon and Nitrogen and rates of decay, not just NPK value of input X. You will never get the NPK of X without bioN and the right conditions.
If you need to know if you need to add N, then BioN= BioC/8 juxtaposed the NPK you need for your plant. Is there a shortfall now? If yes add liquid N, if not dont.... LOL
This is the art bro, making your soil from matter that degrades but provides both N for microbes and NPK for plants without you needing to supplement. if you work this out i have a job for you :)
Ecompost
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nice bro thats the ticket, take the data in your own time, no matter, its not something most people need to know mate. Its like this website right, do we care about the protocol allowing us to talk here? In the majority no we dont, we just know we can... :-) If you want to know, I will share what i have learned over 8 years of focused soil and biology research and our team have specialisations in most areas so if i dont know, I can find out :-)
I can tell you whats what in your products if you send me a link i can get in to the biology and explain what is the pack, what its doing what to what, and what in the pack is doing nothing for MJ but may be used elsewhere in your space.
You are feeding bio stims and organics, this I approve 100% bro :-) How much we can talk about the details is no matter, I just love people vocalizing the successes they have to counter the sale of unneeded, possibly harmful products.
kepp it up, keep sharing your experiences, and most of all, keep you :-) People like you will save us bro. No joke, soil loss is a national security issue
scoop
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Much appreciated. I don't know the entire science behind this but I have screwed around with it long enough to see advantageous results...and yes....to end up with a few buckets of failed/smelly slop as well.
If I buy microbes anymore I usually buy the "Diehard" products like Biorush/Biorush plus/etc. I once owned a hydro shop so I had access to all of the Great Whites, Tarantula, Plant success/etc /etc/etc. and played with most of them with varying degrees of success. FWIW, I have always been far more drawn to the mixes with some humics and leonardite/etc in it that the products that are talc based or contain some other filler. If you can toss it into the tea directly and it becomes a part of the plan I'm far happier than having to mix it up and let it sit or strain it/fuck with it. The Diehard product dissolve well and are about 1/3 the price of the microbes sold for weed with the cutesy names and shit... Ah...but I digress. That's a whole 'nother thread right there!
Like you...my real focus is to get my nutes/amendments/bennies/etc. into solution, mixed well, and starting to break down. I love what my wife calls "The Mad Scientist" approach....and thus....like I said...I'm always mixing/changing the contents and toying around with different combinations.
Have you looked into the soil secrets products? Thoughts? I'm currently babying some very nice bushes to set outside that are in a mix of Happy Frog with Mycos...Terra Pro humic...The EA/EN combo, a small bit of kelp...their Protein crystals....and lots of turning/spinning under the light to keep the plants bushing/growing evenly. (only using 1- 1K light for veg) There must be a bit of goodness contained in these Soil secrets products because these plants have been in these containers for a month+ and I have only >lightly< fertilized them.... yet... they are green/growing fairly tight internode spacing and bushing well. These will possibly be the largest plants I've ever grown....and certainly the biggest I've gone OD. (they are 3-4 ft wide and 3 ft tall at present)
Any tips/advices/products you can offer for the transplant/up-pot (to 65 gallon smart pots) will certainly be considered. My plants are currently sitting in 20 gallon containers that are lined with the 65 gallon smart pots. IF it plays out as planned I will simply pull the smart pot up/out of the plastic pot and sit it on the ground...then fill the new soil around it. I really need some explosive root growth to happen because here in the mouniians of Colorado the season is short. Sitting things out June 1 or thereabouts...we don't get the extended veg/root building time the Left coasters get. Tips?
Either way...thanks for the volly and for understanding that some of us play the game but don't know the formal rules all that well. We just wanna be out there doing it....
be well!
If I buy microbes anymore I usually buy the "Diehard" products like Biorush/Biorush plus/etc. I once owned a hydro shop so I had access to all of the Great Whites, Tarantula, Plant success/etc /etc/etc. and played with most of them with varying degrees of success. FWIW, I have always been far more drawn to the mixes with some humics and leonardite/etc in it that the products that are talc based or contain some other filler. If you can toss it into the tea directly and it becomes a part of the plan I'm far happier than having to mix it up and let it sit or strain it/fuck with it. The Diehard product dissolve well and are about 1/3 the price of the microbes sold for weed with the cutesy names and shit... Ah...but I digress. That's a whole 'nother thread right there!
Like you...my real focus is to get my nutes/amendments/bennies/etc. into solution, mixed well, and starting to break down. I love what my wife calls "The Mad Scientist" approach....and thus....like I said...I'm always mixing/changing the contents and toying around with different combinations.
Have you looked into the soil secrets products? Thoughts? I'm currently babying some very nice bushes to set outside that are in a mix of Happy Frog with Mycos...Terra Pro humic...The EA/EN combo, a small bit of kelp...their Protein crystals....and lots of turning/spinning under the light to keep the plants bushing/growing evenly. (only using 1- 1K light for veg) There must be a bit of goodness contained in these Soil secrets products because these plants have been in these containers for a month+ and I have only >lightly< fertilized them.... yet... they are green/growing fairly tight internode spacing and bushing well. These will possibly be the largest plants I've ever grown....and certainly the biggest I've gone OD. (they are 3-4 ft wide and 3 ft tall at present)
Any tips/advices/products you can offer for the transplant/up-pot (to 65 gallon smart pots) will certainly be considered. My plants are currently sitting in 20 gallon containers that are lined with the 65 gallon smart pots. IF it plays out as planned I will simply pull the smart pot up/out of the plastic pot and sit it on the ground...then fill the new soil around it. I really need some explosive root growth to happen because here in the mouniians of Colorado the season is short. Sitting things out June 1 or thereabouts...we don't get the extended veg/root building time the Left coasters get. Tips?
Either way...thanks for the volly and for understanding that some of us play the game but don't know the formal rules all that well. We just wanna be out there doing it....
be well!
Smerb
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About to grow some sh rooms there. That'll make you question your soil. Now I know its good stuff but its funky.We Solidarit: 1703185 said:
We Solidarity
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yeah I was questioning it til I looked up and realized the plants that had it were raging waaaay harder than the others haha. Then I just started scooping it into every pot.
indicabush
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Nature walk this morning.....going to add these to my compost
Maybe the cat too
Maybe the cat too
Smerb
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Meow. I'm toking some sfv og, that's all there is. I edited this twice cause I'm not paying attention correctly. Will the ocean forest provide cal-mag that cocoa chips won't??? I see the cocoa grow fast but never will give up using g soil. Thinking of grabbing that cocoa bag and mixing it with my bitchen soil....
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Ecompost
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Cocoa husks are cool cool, we been using them as a mulch since seeing them covering the soil in the cocoa farms in Ecuador etc. When I lifted the mulch, the soil under it was too good for me not to start using them myself. Plus they add a lovely smell to the place :-) Just watch your dogs I hear its not great if they start munching it.
Psychonaut47
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fuck ya bud, soil secrets for the win....I've spent hours talking to Mr Melendez when we sold his products...good times. He had some stuff call Earth Nectar and Earth Ambrosia that I loved/love...any whoo, I love soil.
EventHorizan
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I need a quick answer my friensa.. he long do I stir these bubble bags
EventHorizan
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30 min?
Ecompost
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good on ya bro, me too. Soil has mycobacterium recently found to secrete Cytokines which are the same active compound in Prozac...no wonder i feel so good all day, and no i wont wash the soil from my fingers LOL
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