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Spider Mites (Help!)

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Spider Mites (Help!)

squiggly 70 Replies 12,692 Views
Page 2 of 4 · Replies 21–40 of 71
#21
My one time i had mites took me about 4 months to get rid of. i just did A LOT of manual smash and grab. took off as many infected leaves as i could. Sprayed EVERY 3-5 days with Azamax and another organic solution i forget which. you want to rotate. but really mites are easy to get rid of lol Also there is a product called SNS 217. check it out and take more showers and change clothes more often.
 
#22
mites have a 2-3 day hatch cycle so if you kill the adults and keep spraying or keep on a regimen that should do wonders. All the products people recommended are great and should work well. Good luck squigs
 
#24
You can slow down that hatch cycle aswell they do not like it when it sgets cold and about 40% rh maybe some ladybugs if you can keep me alive and then find the plant that has the most eggs... Trust me its gets bad with one plant first throw that fucker away far away and wish you good luck my friend if you have to use poision use azamax spray and systemic but thats last resort and aDO NOT USE DO NOT PLEASE DON'T USE AVID....you have mad brain cells but I wouldn't trade them for a spider mite battle.
 
#25
Update:

Immediately after writing this last night I went to town on my veg room with a 50% iso solution.

For whatever reason I can't find a single live mite on the flowering plant (and none/no eggs on the plant I just chopped--phew)--there was SIGNIFICANT leaf damage on this plant, such that I'd expect to see thousands of the fuckers.

Instead, I just removed all the affected areas and have not yet been able to find a living shit head on any of those leaves, nor on the plant itself.

I think I'm going to go with the school of thought that just says ride it out on the flowering plant. I've no desire to smoke chemicals, and every desire to smoke the plant.

I'm hoping beyond hopes that I can keep this from becoming an endemic infection on my room. Essentially I'm going to do my best to keep the fuckers on the plants only.


Will post back with updates as they come--thanks for the all the tips everyone, they are much appreciated.
 
#26
He'll ya squiggly don't go down with out a fight so ISO is alcohol right?
 
#27
baba G said:
fyi, I can go through 2-4 gallons for only 6 lights when plants are fairly small...I drench em and make sure you got 6-8 hours of darkness after spraying them before lights come back on and make sure the lights are far enough, some strains burn easier but 30ml/gal of azamax has never had bad effects, ime
Click to expand...

You hit on an excellent point. This not a time to be lazy. Drench every inch of these fuckers soak the pots, soak the soil, wipe down all surfaces of the space with bleach wipes then spray with pesticide. Go medieval on these fuckers. Once your done sent predators in for cleanup. When the run is done, use those industrial foggers, not dr doom. They make one for living and one for eggs. Use both.

I have to agree with SeaMaiden. . . Mighty Wash works, but I don't trust their secrecy.

outwest
 
#28
caveman4.20 said:
He'll ya squiggly don't go down with out a fight so ISO is alcohol right?
Click to expand...

yes.

Technically, iso is a prefix for a chemical name that suggests the compound is an isomer of a standard compound. Isomers are compounds which have the same empirical formula (same number/type of atoms) with a different spatial configuration (they are connected differently). But usually, even among chemists, when one refers to iso--we all know you mean isopropanol (it is a common organic solvent).

Isopropanol (2-propanol/propan-2-ol) is a structural isomer of propanol (1-propanol/propan-1-ol). The numbers in the standard names denote which carbon atom in the chain holds the OH group. Which is called iso and which is "standard" is determined by convention (in the case of alcohols, the standard one is the one where the OH group is attached to the lowest numbered carbon).

Notice there is no 3-propanol, because--being a symmetrical straight chain of 3 carbon atoms--it is the same thing as 1-propanol, and convention says that we give things the lowest number we can (in general).
 
#29
outwest said:
Go medieval on these fuckers. Once your done sent predators in for cleanup. When the run is done, use those industrial foggers, not dr doom. They make one for living and one for eggs. Use both.

I have to agree with SeaMaiden. . . Mighty Wash works, but I don't trust their secrecy.

outwest
Click to expand...

I probably don't need to go TOO overboard on industrial ish--I literally have 2 veg plants, 1 in flower, and 1 drying. So I have time and ability to pay close attention to each one individually. I have scoured these things and for now can't find anything alive--there are yet eggs.

Gotta keep myself on that aggravated misdemeanor status. A group of buddies and I do a "timeshare" kinda thing with our gene pool--so most of my mothers are out of harms way currently.

Its just the two that I have here are near and dear to me. One is my best FPOG keeper so far, and the other is my best Wolverine Kush keeper.

I am armed with Caps and the knowledge you guys have dropped--and I think I'm in a good position being as this didn't originate here, and I caught it the minute after I brought it in and got to work killing it.

I think I can tackle it with the info you've given. The WORST WORST WORST part about this:

I have finals next week, I don't have time for this shit.
 
#30
praying mantis and Daring jumping spiders are one of the best investsments you can make in protecting indoor and especially outdoor gardens from bugs. The daring spiders are so preditorial that if they feel any vibration on the plant that they choose as their domain, they will go and attack it, even aphids that are near the surface of the dirt. These spiders are amazing, just make sure you remove them from your plant before they hatch babies, and watch out, they like to jump and attack when they feel threatened. I stumbled upon these little critters by accident when they took over my plants and got huge from an abundance of bugs, after 2 weeks not a single bug to be found. Take it easy.... forbid seriosly works wonders on the mites
 
#31
squiggly said:
I think I'm going to go with the school of thought that just says ride it out on the flowering plant. I've no desire to smoke chemicals, and every desire to smoke the plant.
Click to expand...

Except all the 100s of phytochemicals in the plant? :p

Hope you sort out the mite problem ASAP bro. Those little fuckers can be an absolute nightmare.
 
#32
i go nuts with mites, over a span of 2 weeks or so i will treat every 3 days with floromite, forbid, avid and doctor doom foggers. works really well for me. i never use em close to flower, always use proper safety precautions. these are very nasty products but when used properly by someone who has a brain and a conscience aren't as bad as people think.

i don't get mites often 2 times in the last 2 years.
 
#34
Been there done that, and decided like a few others to not F around at all so I dropped the nukes on them ...Azamax, Floramite, and a special concoction I forget what it was, but super nasty wear your HAZMAT suit kinda shiz. Fogged and bleached room and all equipment. You dont want to half ass bugs, they will be the bane of your existence if you dont have prudence and extreme prejudice..
I know messin with chemicals sucks and I hate to do it but I'd rather do it once than battle the Borg more than once.
 
#35
Squiggly make sure you hang that drying plant upside down the mites wil all crawl down the branch following the moisture and you prolly know the rest from there....
 
#36
squiggly said:
Update:

Immediately after writing this last night I went to town on my veg room with a 50% iso solution.

For whatever reason I can't find a single live mite on the flowering plant (and none/no eggs on the plant I just chopped--phew)--there was SIGNIFICANT leaf damage on this plant, such that I'd expect to see thousands of the fuckers.

Instead, I just removed all the affected areas and have not yet been able to find a living shit head on any of those leaves, nor on the plant itself.

I think I'm going to go with the school of thought that just says ride it out on the flowering plant. I've no desire to smoke chemicals, and every desire to smoke the plant.

I'm hoping beyond hopes that I can keep this from becoming an endemic infection on my room. Essentially I'm going to do my best to keep the fuckers on the plants only.


Will post back with updates as they come--thanks for the all the tips everyone, they are much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Excellent! Assuming conditions are right for a 3-day hatch rate, I recommend you return to the scene of the crime and reapply in the same manner.

Forbid works as long as it works, and resistant mites already exist. This is the unfortunate truth of the matter. There are also dichlorvos-resistant mites (No Pest Strips, aka NPS), Avid-resistant mites, Floramite-resistant mites and I'm sure more are on the way. I'll have to search for the article(s), but it has recently been discovered not just *that* mites quickly develop resistance to many modern miticides, but how they develop this resistance, and how they do it so quickly.

They do not, however, develop resistance to the methods I've mentioned previously. I did forget to mention JMS Stylet oil, which smothers them and is a fantastic adjuvant to things like PEO's (plant essential oils) and possibly even the iso application, though that's one combination I haven't tried. I have used it by itself, and it is like the iso and PEOs in that it must be applied every three days if the temperatures are warm and dry, and again, thoroughness is *key*.

And so that leads me to another unintended method of control I discovered with my first (and so far only, knock on wood) indoor infestation, and that's cool temps along with high humidity, I'm talking 60%+RH here, and temps down in the 60s. Now, I can not advise flowering in those conditions, it is easily just as bad in terms of yield and quality as trying to flower in too warm and dry conditions, producing fluffy, larfy buds that never quite thicken up.

I'll also remind folks of keeping one handling direction, and make your most valuable (i.e. flowering) plants the first plants you touch. Don't forget the utility of treating equipment and clothing, etc, that may come into contact with spider mites. I've found it is just as easy as putting everything into the freezer for 24hrs.
 
#37
Thanks for all the tips guys.

Updates:

1. Took shitloads of clones from mothers. Washed them under running water--paying special attention to the petiole area, and underside of leaves. Used a VO dish soap/alcohol/water emulsion to aid cleaning.

2. Quarantined the mothers in a high humidity area until clones sprout--will toss them when this happens.

3. Have applied caps foliar tea (highly concentrated) all over the place.


I still can't find any live ones on the last remaining flowing plant. The harvested plant has been hung upside down in the drying chamber--and i've yet to see any live ones on it (there was no leaf damage). I'm definitely going to keep looking.

This is definitely the borg, not thrips--I've seen them with the scope, and after my first alcohol wash they were all the fuck over my WK mother--tagged em with alcohol again and that seems to have slowed them down considerably. They can take the thing over for all i care so long as these clones get established--I'm fairly certain they are clean, going to hit everything with a neem emulsion tomorrow, and follow that up with some miticide later in the week (when i get my hands on it).

Right now I'm just hoping to get fast roots so that I can get rid of the lion's share of the infestation. By the time roots are out, I'll probably be ready to chop the FPOG--and get to the business of rape-cleaning my room with pesticides. I'm soooooooo happy I covered all the walls with this panda film now--as it's going to make this process much smoother.

Definitely no webbing anywhere--I think I caught the infestation on the mothers *just* before it exploded, and curiously somehow the flowering plant seems to have fought them off on their own. I'm really confused by not seeing them there with how extensive the leaf damage was.

I essentially defoliated the entire thing anyway as a precaution--only bud leaves left at this point. The leaves i took off did have a fair helping of eggs--maybe I just caught them mid-cycle right before they hatched, and there aren't many adults around?

Either way, I'm bracing for an explosion in the flowering room. If one happens--I'll likely just cull the plant, I'd rather kill it than feed the infestation in my room. She's tiny anyway so the lost yield will be something like an oz--not a big deal.

Really I just need to be done with school so that I can give this situation the time and attention it needs.
 
#38
Sounds like you got things under control. I would use a heat mat to speed up the rooting process if you haven't thought about that...
 
#39
Well done reigning in the problem bro. Iso is a good treatment IMO, non-toxic and fast acting, exactly what you want in your situation.
 
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