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Started A Cmh Grow With 12 27 Gal Sites.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Aktommy
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Started A Cmh Grow With 12 27 Gal Sites.

Aktommy 119 Replies 18,713 Views
Page 6 of 6 · Replies 101–120 of 120
#101
I was just talking to my partner about this EC business. We killed the air except for in the epicenter and once an hour it comes on in pods for 1 minute just for a lil insurance on DO and stirring etc.

Right now they are leaps and bounds better at .7EC for almost a week

We are going to add a bit more to approach ,9 EC

On the bottle it lists 1 tsp per liter in other words 20ml per gallon with an expected EC of 1.8

This means that for 1.2 EC it would take approx 13ml per gallon.

1.2 EC is 2/3 manufacturer stregnth ,

There is no reason I can think of where roots grown into nice water with enough DO would get burned by 2/3 strength nutes.
 
#102
What line are you running snoop?
I am going to increase my solution strength as well. Gonna shoot it to .7 and see what happens.
I may have been adding my nutes in the wrong order too. Another post and some reading cleared up a few areas for me that I was lagging in. Silica first, then Cal mag, then a, then b, then adjust ph.
I was adding the silica and cal mag after the a and b ...
 
#103
JMcG said:
What line are you running snoop?
I am going to increase my solution strength as well. Gonna shoot it to .7 and see what happens.
I may have been adding my nutes in the wrong order too. Another post and some reading cleared up a few areas for me that I was lagging in. Silica first, then Cal mag, then a, then b, then adjust ph.
I was adding the silica and cal mag after the a and b ...
Click to expand...
Adding the silica last just increases the chance of the silica precipitating out aka dropping to the bottom of res as a chunk of snot. Adding calmag last shouldn't hurt as long as your solution isn't super concentrated as in a stock solution for mixing with something like a dose-a-tron.
 
#104
right on guys . . were running Ionic grow right now . . adding calmag and silica first is good . . also, add water TO the silica in the measuring cup, not silica to water ;) So measure out your 50ml or whatever, then add your RO water into the 50 ML so it doesnt chunk up and go glass on you
 
#105
snoopytime said:
right on guys . . were running Ionic grow right now . . adding calmag and silica first is good . . also, add water TO the silica in the measuring cup, not silica to water ;) So measure out your 50ml or whatever, then add your RO water into the 50 ML so it doesnt chunk up and go glass on you
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Definitely the safest/ best route don't wanna waste your silica....Just meant it shouldn't cause deficiency like issues:)
 
#106
JMcG said:
Interesting...
I am in week six on two LSD and two Critcal Kush ladies , my first complete run with Ionic.
In the name of keeping EC low in UC, I started around .5 and worked up to .7 where I started to see burn. I guess it was burn, but it might have just been deficiencies. It pisses me off that after all these years I STILL have trouble distinguishing the leeaf appearance of nutrient toxicity vs simple cal mag deficiency. Seems like when I chase down one... it's the other.
Anyway, they seem pretty happy at around .5 to .6 but I am seeing a bit of tip curl and crispness, which tells me I'm over feeding a bit. ( I actually all but killed one sensitive LSD by over feeding it... see my one of four deficient thread) But the rust colored edges and some red petioles hint at mag def. A recent post here somewhere talked about being able to stay under .6 or as high as 1.4 as long as the cal mag were kept in line, which I think is my problem. The lower schedule lets them thrive without burn but probably does not provide enough cal mag .
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Something does not seem dialed in if you are at week 6 and only at .6 EC or 300 TDS. Are you using RO? I have not had to add any cal mag for any strain I've grown with ionic and RDWC, and I've grown a lot of strains. I would get your water checked and obviously make sure your PH is at 5.5-6.0
 
#107
Harvest update:
Harvested 3 black Mambas with an average wet trimmed weight of 74 oz each. I'm getting the same or even better results than with a 600 hps in yields. The quality is where I see a large improvement over HPS, my bud structure is far better with more density and full of trichomes. The spectrum is allowing the flowers to develope more natural coloring as well.

I have no doubts that airstones are not needed and that waterfalls are superior for root development in RDWC.
 

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#108
niiiiiiiiiiice man! 74 ounces wet should come out to around 11 ounces nice and dry each!
 
#110
Aktommy said:
Something does not seem dialed in if you are at week 6 and only at .6 EC or 300 TDS. Are you using RO? I have not had to add any cal mag for any strain I've grown with ionic and RDWC, and I've grown a lot of strains. I would get your water checked and obviously make sure your PH is at 5.5-6.0
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Yeah, thanks for that. And, fuck me! Killer harvest brother! Excellent job all the way through.... except for that damn fitting .

I cranked it up to .7 EC and they looked happier overnight. I have been this high before and thought I saw tip burn so I went back down to .6 or lower. Well, it must have been the first signs of mag def and not burn because they began to show more signs of deficiency.
I have a new run of two Liberty haze and two GG4 that just went into week three. They responded to the bump to .7 nicely, so I am going to keep raising it over the next week or so. I will see if I can get up into that 1- 1.2 range.
@ snoop and Pharm ... thanks for the tips on silica. It's these little details that I love to hear!
 
#111
Aktommy said:
Should be closer to 16oz, 74 x .22= 16.28 I've been weighing all my crops wet for years and it usually comes out just right by using .22 as my multiplier.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm with you on the yield being as good and the quality definitely exploding with goodness with the 315 cmh. I just pulled 15 zippers off of a GG4 and it has tighter structure and more frost than the one under the HPS!
 
#113
AKTommy, do you get your stuff tested? I am trying to gather some cold hard facts instead of anicdotal. I have a couple test going and will have some results in 5-6 weeks. I am trying to confirm/deny claims like 4% increase in thc, 2x-3x terps and obviously the yield comparison between 600hps and 315s. One test is with Phillips 3100k bulbs but the single wall one that gives off more UVB and A.

Any stats would be much appreciated
 
#115
Frankspace said:
AKTommy, do you get your stuff tested? I am trying to gather some cold hard facts instead of anicdotal. I have a couple test going and will have some results in 5-6 weeks. I am trying to confirm/deny claims like 4% increase in thc, 2x-3x terps and obviously the yield comparison between 600hps and 315s. One test is with Phillips 3100k bulbs but the single wall one that gives off more UVB and A.

Any stats would be much appreciated
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I haven't had anything tested at a lab, it's a good idea though.
 
#116
Any more observations?
How do your patients like the meds?
Any tweeks on your next run? I saw you started more on instagram
 
#117
Frankspace said:
Any more observations?
How do your patients like the meds?
Any tweeks on your next run? I saw you started more on instagram
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Patients love the quality, I'll include a pic of some of the dried blackberry Cream from the harvest. We ran our Trim from this run as shatter and were really surprised at a near 22 percent return, this is a high number for me with trim only. The black Mambas had a slightly higher return than the black berry cream.

This next run the only thing I'm changing is no blackberry Cream and instead I'm running some Kimbo Kush and a Citrus Berry along with black Mambas.

The smoke quality is off the charts with full turpines coming through loud and clear, the Mambas have a stronger Andes Mints after taste and seem smoother.
 

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#118
22% on trim is awesome
Hopefully I experience the same results, I chop in a week
 
#120
snoopytime said:
...1 minute just for a lil insurance on DO and stirring etc.
There is no reason I can think of where roots grown into nice water with enough DO would get burned by 2/3 strength nutes.
Click to expand...

Your personal opinion please:

What do you consider the optimal DO saturation that should be maintained in res water throughout the growing season in order to eliminate any low oxygen crisis like root suffocation, sick roots, dying roots and so on?

I see you do a lot of testing. How do you actually test and confirm your DO Saturation?
 
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