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Still burp everyday or no?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bib4tuna
  • Start date Start date Nov 17, 2020
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Still burp everyday or no?

Bib4tuna Nov 17, 2020 123 Replies 19,821 Views
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iTurniGrow

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#61
Bib4tuna said:
Thx,will do!
Click to expand...

Just went through th exact same thing, ik how you feel, just dw bout it

HYNNIO 5-Pack Mini Digital Thermometer Hygrometer Meters Gauge Indoor, Large Number Display Temperature Humidity for Home Office Humidors Jars Incubators Guitar Case: Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors

Great prices on your favourite Gardening brands, and free delivery on eligible orders.
www.amazon.co.uk

^these were insaanelyyy accurate for me
 
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gorillaglueaaron

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#62
I have the same ones ^
 
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iTurniGrow

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#63
gorillaglueaaron said:
I have the same ones ^
Click to expand...

So good aren't they, worth every penny. The accuracy is insane lol.
 
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gorillaglueaaron

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#64
iTurniGrow said:
So good aren't they, worth every penny. The accuracy is insane lol.
Click to expand...
They're all within 2% rh and around 0.2 degrees which is as accurate as you need.
 
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Aqua Man

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#65
I think whats missing here is that we are trying to use humidity to change moisture content... and while it can be done its not as simple as x amount of humidity. Temperature plays a huge role in this.... ergo relative humidity.

Test this yourself. Put a hygrometer in a jar and seal it put it somewhere warm and let it stabilize. Then put it somewhere cold and watch the RH rise significantly. So when bringing the moisture content down curing we want 12-15% as below this curing stops. So we want a good cure like a month or so is good. Then we wanna dry down to about 10-12% and seal for storage.

Now many can do this by feel but you can get pretty close with RH IF IF and I'll say it again IF you are shooting for the RH at the right temperature. So some may need different RH values depending on the temperature to reach the same moisture content.
 
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Michealangelo

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#66
Aqua Man said:
I think whats missing here is that we are trying to use humidity to change moisture content... and while it can be done its not as simple as x amount of humidity. Temperature plays a huge role in this.... ergo relative humidity.

Test this yourself. Put a hygrometer in a jar and seal it put it somewhere warm and let it stabilize. Then put it somewhere cold and watch the RH rise significantly. So when bringing the moisture content down curing we want 12-15% as below this curing stops. So we want a good cure like a month or so is good. Then we wanna dry down to about 10-12% and seal for storage.

Now many can do this by feel but you can get pretty close with RH IF IF and I'll say it again IF you are shooting for the RH at the right temperature. So some may need different RH values depending on the temperature to reach the same moisture content.
Click to expand...
Yes I use a bunch of hygrometers in my jars. To have some idear where there at
 
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Bib4tuna

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#67
Aqua Man said:
I think whats missing here is that we are trying to use humidity to change moisture content... and while it can be done its not as simple as x amount of humidity. Temperature plays a huge role in this.... ergo relative humidity.

Test this yourself. Put a hygrometer in a jar and seal it put it somewhere warm and let it stabilize. Then put it somewhere cold and watch the RH rise significantly. So when bringing the moisture content down curing we want 12-15% as below this curing stops. So we want a good cure like a month or so is good. Then we wanna dry down to about 10-12% and seal for storage.

Now many can do this by feel but you can get pretty close with RH IF IF and I'll say it again IF you are shooting for the RH at the right temperature. So some may need different RH values depending on the temperature to reach the same moisture content.
Click to expand...
I wasnt paying much attention to temps in jar past couple nights. Ill start factoring this in. I believe someone referenced this earlier as low & slow cure.
 
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Bib4tuna

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#68
Aqua Man said:
I think whats missing here is that we are trying to use humidity to change moisture content... and while it can be done its not as simple as x amount of humidity. Temperature plays a huge role in this.... ergo relative humidity.

Test this yourself. Put a hygrometer in a jar and seal it put it somewhere warm and let it stabilize. Then put it somewhere cold and watch the RH rise significantly. So when bringing the moisture content down curing we want 12-15% as below this curing stops. So we want a good cure like a month or so is good. Then we wanna dry down to about 10-12% and seal for storage.

Now many can do this by feel but you can get pretty close with RH IF IF and I'll say it again IF you are shooting for the RH at the right temperature. So some may need different RH values depending on the temperature to reach the same moisture content.
Click to expand...
So if 55-60% is the target area Im shooting for right right now,what should temp be?
 
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Aqua Man

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#69
Bib4tuna said:
So if 55-60% is the target area Im shooting for right right now,what should temp be?
Click to expand...
Of you ask me the RH is to low. At 60-65f 62-65Rh is a safe bet to be in the curing zone honestly about as close to 65% as you can get the better. I burp at 64-65% once its stable 62-63% seal it up for about a month. Then if ya bring it down to about 58% it's about perfect to smoke. If ya vape dry flower maybe 60-62%.

This is what I find works well for me. But your gonna find all sorts of info.
 
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Bib4tuna

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#70
Aqua Man said:
Of you ask me the RH is to low. At 60-65f 62-65Rh is a safe bet to be in the curing zone honestly about as close to 65% as you can get the better. I burp at 64-65% once its stable 62-63% seal it up for about a month. Then if ya bring it down to about 58% it's about perfect to smoke. If ya vape dry flower maybe 60-62%.

This is what I find works well for me. But your gonna find all sorts of info.
Click to expand...
Ya definately find alotta of people differ on this. As Id said in thread earlier,alot of sites say 60-65% is the "Cure Zone" but alot of people keep telling me to shoot for 55-60%. If you say 65% I trust you tho & since almost all my jars are at 65%,I guess im good. I also see u said once it stabilizes at 62-63% to seal up for a month. This stands out because I see alot of ppl.say u have to burp everyday but I guess thats not the case. As u said tho,info will differ. For instance,I read an Ed Rosenthal article earlier where he said curing in any kind of sealed container like jar isnt good yet ive always been told jars so I guess everyone does differently.
 
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Beachwalker

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#71
Aqua Man said:
Of you ask me the RH is to low. At 60-65f 62-65Rh is a safe bet to be in the curing zone honestly about as close to 65% as you can get the better. I burp at 64-65% once its stable 62-63% seal it up for about a month. Then if ya bring it down to about 58% it's about perfect to smoke. If ya vape dry flower maybe 60-62%.

This is what I find works well for me. But your gonna find all sorts of info.
Click to expand...
OP said he got this info from you but I thought maybe he had misheard because I've never heard of anyone doing it like that??

I'm not seeing how that would not invite both off-flavors and mold, particularly jarred and never burped at a higher % RH?

I understand everybody has their own system, the way I do it is I don't jar until it's 60% rh on the button coming out of my humidity-controlled drying room

then I burp it for about three weeks, 3×/day the first week, twice a day the second week then once the last week something like that, then vacuum sealed at 57-58% rh, never below 57

I noticed in the past that sometimes if I miss even one burping it can throw the smell of the whole jar off and I usually throw it in the hash bin

I have always believed that the purpose of curing is to burp jars or food grade plastic tubs (which I use when it's more than a few jars) to change the atmosphere inside the container, as the plant slowly releases moisture
 
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Aqua Man

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#72
Beachwalker said:
OP said he got this info from you but I thought maybe he had misheard because I've never heard of anyone doing it like that??

I'm not seeing how that would not invite both off-flavors and mold, particularly jarred and never burped at a higher % RH?

I understand everybody has their own system, the way I do it is I don't jar until it's 60% rh on the button coming out of my humidity-controlled drying room

then I burp it for about three weeks, 3×/day the first week, twice a day the second week then once the last week something like that, then vacuum sealed at 57-58% rh, never below 57

I noticed in the past that sometimes if I miss even one burping it can throw the smell of the whole jar off and I usually throw it in the hash bin

I have always believed that the purpose of curing is to burp jars or food grade plastic tubs (which I use when it's more than a few jars) to change the atmosphere inside the container, as the plant slowly releases moisture
Click to expand...
Only risk is over 65% but below 62% and generally you risk halting the cure. I'll try to dog up some info for you on this but I have found excellent excellent results like this.
 
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Bib4tuna

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#73
Beachwalker said:
OP said he got this info from you but I thought maybe he had misheard because I've never heard of anyone doing it like that??

I'm not seeing how that would not invite both off-flavors and mold, particularly jarred and never burped at a higher % RH?

I understand everybody has their own system, the way I do it is I don't jar until it's 60% rh on the button coming out of my humidity-controlled drying room

then I burp it for about three weeks, 3×/day the first week, twice a day the second week then once the last week something like that, then vacuum sealed at 57-58% rh, never below 57

I noticed in the past that sometimes if I miss even one burping it can throw the smell of the whole jar off and I usually throw it in the hash bin

I have always believed that the purpose of curing is to burp jars or food grade plastic tubs (which I use when it's more than a few jars) to change the atmosphere inside the container, as the plant slowly releases moisture
Click to expand...
Like I said,everyone has their own way of doing this it seems. In the Ed Rosenthal article I mentioned he says that the idea of curing in a sealed container like jar or tupperware is an urban myth & by being trapped in container with humidity encourages mold,bad smell,& taste. He cures in cardboard containers like shoe boxes. Im sticking with jars since this seems to be consensus & what ive always been told to do since I was young. As far as rh Ill split down the middle since so many ppl.vary & go with 55%. Hopefully I get this right,lol.
 
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Aqua Man

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#74
Bib4tuna said:
Like I said,everyone has their own way of doing this it seems. In the Ed Rosenthal article I mentioned he says that the idea of curing in a sealed container like jar or tupperware is an urban myth & by being trapped in container with humidity encourages mold,bad smell,& taste. He cures in cardboard containers like shoe boxes. Im sticking with jars since this seems to be consensus & what ive always been told to do since I was young. As far as rh Ill split down the middle since so many ppl.vary & go with 55%. Hopefully I get this right,lol.
Click to expand...
Ok he does this in 50% humidity because the boxes are minimally porous. He also packs them tightly. So it takes a long time for the moisture to come out... slowing the drying process and increasing the time in the moisture zone for curing. When lose in a jar this will dry them to fast... my opinion.

See I think ppl take bits and pieces and mix em all up and we get some long standing practices that really aren't correct bit thats just my opinion.

The burping is only to keep moisture levels in a good range once the humidity is stay steady you burp less and seal. You dont need to exchange air. Its like the old arguments of VPD. Curing is a step and final product is a step they are not the same. You can dry down to 8% moisture and have nice smooth smoke. Or you can slow down the dry and cure at 12-15% for a couple weeks to a couple months and then dry down to 8%. Once you get below 12% the curing is stopped. Reducing the temls slows the drying process and helps preserves the terps and flavoniods. There is a difference in smooth semi cured bud and a nice 1 month or longer of curing.

I think many are drying then curing for a week or touch more as the moisture content slides down slowly as we burp. But if we keep burping we stop the cure and bring it down to a desirable smoking moisture content.

If we seal and hold the moisture co tent in the desired range we continue curing. Then we drop the moisture down.

A week or 2 makes for good smoke... but a month you will see a difference.

I honestly encourage ppl to try a small amount next time the way I said and feel free to call me out on it after.
 
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Beachwalker

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#75
Aqua Man said:
Only risk is over 65% but below 62% and generally you risk halting the cure. I'll try to dog up some info for you on this but I have found excellent excellent results like this.
Click to expand...
I respectfully disagree I would never put anything in a jar above 62%

I've always read that it was below 57%rh when the curing stops

No need to send info on my account cuz if I'm honest I'll never change how I dry and cure, I was just curious cuz I've never heard it done that way before
 
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Beachwalker

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#76
Bib4tuna said:
Like I said,everyone has their own way of doing this it seems. In the Ed Rosenthal article I mentioned he says that the idea of curing in a sealed container like jar or tupperware is an urban myth & by being trapped in container with humidity encourages mold,bad smell,& taste. He cures in cardboard containers like shoe boxes. Im sticking with jars since this seems to be consensus & what ive always been told to do since I was young. As far as rh Ill split down the middle since so many ppl.vary & go with 55%. Hopefully I get this right,lol.
Click to expand...
I'm glad it's working for you, but I've had many jars and batches over many years that I missed burping even one day and I've had to throw it in the hash bin cuz the scent went off, but good luck to you
 
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Bib4tuna

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#77
Aqua Man said:
Ok he does this in 50% humidity because the boxes are minimally porous. He also packs them tightly. So it takes a long time for the moisture to come out... slowing the drying process and increasing the time in the moisture zone for curing. When lose in a jar this will dry them to fast... my opinion.

See I think ppl take bits and pieces and mix em all up and we get some long standing practices that really aren't correct bit thats just my opinion.

The burping is only to keep moisture levels in a good range once the humidity is stay steady you burp less and seal. You dont need to exchange air. Its like the old arguments of VPD. Curing is a step and final product is a step they are not the same. You can dry down to 8% moisture and have nice smooth smoke. Or you can slow down the dry and cure at 12-15% for a couple weeks to a couple months and then dry down to 8%. Once you get below 12% the curing is stopped. Reducing the temls slows the drying process and helps preserves the terps and flavoniods. There is a difference in smooth semi cured bud and a nice 1 month or longer of curing.

I think many are drying then curing for a week or touch more as the moisture content slides down slowly as we burp. But if we keep burping we stop the cure and bring it down to a desirable smoking moisture content.

If we seal and hold the moisture co tent in the desired range we continue curing. Then we drop the moisture down.

A week or 2 makes for good smoke... but a month you will see a difference.

I honestly encourage ppl to try a small amount next time the way I said and feel free to call me out on it after.
Click to expand...
I love the way you broke this down. Youve actually clarified this for me more than anybody or anything ive read,lol. Once ive held rh at 62-63% for a month I wanna slowly drop to 12%,right?
 
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Aqua Man

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#78
Beachwalker said:
I've always read that it was below 57%rh when the curing stops

Need to send info cuz if I'm honest I'll never change how I dry and cure; I was just curious cuz that I've never heard it done that way before, but I guess everybody does it different
Click to expand...
You may well be right at 57-58. I have not found anywhere that shows the equalibrium moisture content of cannabis if you have please let me know. I feel it will lie between soft wood and grains which you can find easily. I also know a few grows that dry right on the edge of 65% humidity. Now for the first few days drying at 50% no issue and beneficial imo but then we want to slow it down and when it hits 12-15% which i have found many places we want to hold it there. Also many place that below 12% curing will stop.

I was scared to try at first and did only a little. Well I'm glad I did because I can absolutely see and taste the difference in the weed. It darkens a bit more and has more flavor and smell. Last grow I did all of mine like this and not an issue at all. I open a bucket and its like letting heaven out.

Even if its one bud give it a try or not but I bet many will be surprised at the difference. It really brings out the difference in terps and flavoniods between strains.
 
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Aqua Man

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#79
Beachwalker said:
I'm glad it's working for you, but I've had many jars and batches over many years that I missed burping even one day and I've had to throw it in the hash bin cuz the scent went off, but good luck to you
Click to expand...
Do you put Hygrometer's in them?
 
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Aqua Man

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#80
Bib4tuna said:
I love the way you broke this down. Youve actually clarified this for me more than anybody or anything ive read,lol. Once ive held rh at 62-63% for a month I wanna slowly drop to 12%,right?
Click to expand...
If your selling and greedy for weight 10-12% or if vaping dry flower. Ideally for a joint well cured then dropped to about 8% is super nice
 
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Replies 123
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Started Nov 17, 2020
Latest post Dec 11, 2020
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Forum Cannabis Harvesting & Curing

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