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  • Still white pistils, been flowering for 9 weeks !?!?

Still white pistils, been flowering for 9 weeks !?!?

  • Thread starter Thread starter chrisjames47
  • Start date Start date May 14, 2023
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Still white pistils, been flowering for 9 weeks !?!?

chrisjames47 May 14, 2023 39 Replies 66,390 Views
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Mothman

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#21
Harpua88 said:
it will look like it's ready to harvest, or close, then these new white hairs and new green calyxes peek out everywhere, and it's now a mix of mature and new flowers.
Click to expand...
I’m dealing with that now. 3 strains in a tent, one just starting to slow down flowering with little to no amber, the other two are ready for chop but no place else to hang ‘em.

Good reason to stick to a single cultivar per grow cycle.
 
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chrisjames47

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#22
alpha.ganjaguy said:
Also keep in mind, if it has been 9 weeks since 12/12 it has only been about 7 in flower, the first 1-3 weeks (depending on each plant) of 12/12 is the budding/pre-flower/stretch stage, after that you officially enter the flowering stage which often makes people feel like they are behind or farther ahead then they are
Click to expand...
Ok thanks for this, that takes a lot of the panic away so I still have a couple of weeks to go then il keep feeding for now and keep an eye on them thanks again
 
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chrisjames47

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#23
Harpua88 said:
This too. You can count the day you flip to 12/12 as "Day one", but it really doesn't matter what you call it. It will do its thing and will be ready when it's ready.

Outdoors, if we do the math from when plants start flowering (mid July?), that makes Oct 15th 90 days. I know, there are so many variables, the variety, location......but indoors we always want to harvest mature, ripe buds after 55, 65 days. I don't know, maybe for some really early maturing Indicas, but for so many varieties that's too early, and day 75-80 is when the magic happens.
Click to expand...
Yea this makes sense I suppose all strains are different arnt they
GNick55 said:
what you feeding it?
Click to expand...
canna a&bhalf strength
Rhizo quarter strength
Cannazym half strenght
Ok 9:18 half strength
Thanks man
 
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GNick55

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#24
chrisjames47 said:
Yea this makes sense I suppose all strains are different arnt they

canna a&bhalf strength
Rhizo quarter strength
Cannazym half strenght
Ok 9:18 half strength
Thanks man
Click to expand...
ok thanks..
i just noticed your growing in coco.. i won’t be much help to ya..
 
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chrisjames47

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#25
GNick55 said:
ok thanks..
i just noticed your growing in coco.. i won’t be much help to ya..
Click to expand...
Ok fair enough haha cheers anyway
 
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chrisjames47

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#26
Oldguy71 said:
Excessive nutrients can delay ripening
Click to expand...
Thanks, yea I feed half strength with a&b and pk at the minute do you think I should lower the feed now?
 
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Oldguy71

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#27
I’d go down to 2-300ppm to finish them out
 
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chrisjames47

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#28
Oldguy71 said:
Excessive nutrients can delay ripening
Click to expand...
Thanks, ea I feed half strength with a&b and pk at the minute do you think I should lower the feed now?
Oldguy71 said:
I’d go down to 2-300ppm to finish them out
Click to expand...
Thanks man
 
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chrisjames47

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#29
I am thinking about cutting the top buds off and letting the lower buds finish off, how would I flush if I do it like this? Could I flush it all first then cut the top buds and carry on feeding for lower buds? Any ideas will be appreciated, thanks
 
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Scrogger2190

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#30
chrisjames47 said:
I am thinking about cutting the top buds off and letting the lower buds finish off, how would I flush if I do it like this? Could I flush it all first then cut the top buds and carry on feeding for lower buds? Any ideas will be appreciated, thanks
Click to expand...
If you want to do a stage harvest I would recommend doing it backwards. The buds actually mature from the bottom up bc the way lighting is indoor(only comes from one direction) so the lower buds get less light so the finish faster. I would harvest the lowers and let the uppers finish if that's your thing
 
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chrisjames47

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#31
Scrogger2190 said:
If you want to do a stage harvest I would recommend doing it backwards. The buds actually mature from the bottom up bc the way lighting is indoor(only comes from one direction) so the lower buds get less light so the finish faster. I would harvest the lowers and let the uppers finish if that's your
Click to expand...
Scrogger2190 said:
If you want to do a stage harvest I would recommend doing it backwards. The buds actually mature from the bottom up bc the way lighting is indoor(only comes from one direction) so the lower buds get less light so the finish faster. I would harvest the lowers and let the uppers finish if that's your thing
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply, yea this is usually the case but I never trimmed properly throughout the grow with me being so busy ( I usually keep on top of it) so the lower buds have not received much light so they all look very premature and the leaves around them are a lot lighter shade green but all my top buds look almost done so if I flush the whole grow then cut the top buds and start feeding the lower ones again do you think that would be okay? Thanks
 
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Scrogger2190

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#32
chrisjames47 said:
Thanks for the reply, yea this is usually the case but I never trimmed properly throughout the grow with me being so busy ( I usually keep on top of it) so the lower buds have not received much light so they all look very premature and the leaves around them are a lot lighter shade green but all my top buds look almost done so if I flush the whole grow then cut the top buds and start feeding the lower ones again do you think that would be okay? Thanks
Click to expand...
Things mature faster when they get less light. I would take a look at those trichomes ;)
 
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chrisjames47

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#33
Scrogger2190 said:
Things mature faster when they get less light. I would take a look at those trichomes ;)
Click to expand...
Ok thanks man
 
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baydestrian707

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#34
chrisjames47 said:
Hi people, I just want to know what’s going on with my buds I am 9 weeks into flower and some of my buds still look premature, I am growing in coco and using a 4000w bestva led with 6” fan , the only thing that I can think I’ve done wrong is sometimes I let the coco dry out abit but not much else do these buds look right to you I’ve attached some pics to this thread.
Thanks
Click to expand...
So I'm about 49 days into flower with my Auto Blue Amnesia and same thing happened with mine. Pistils had already began getting changing color. I changed Nutrients after a major flush and changed LED fixture and in two days it's regrown pistils like a MF and started to get thick fat colas. But it blew my mind how it grew white pistils all over again
 
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TheGreenGroomer

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#35
alpha.ganjaguy said:
Also keep in mind, if it has been 9 weeks since 12/12 it has only been about 7 in flower, the first 1-3 weeks (depending on each plant) of 12/12 is the budding/pre-flower/stretch stage, after that you officially enter the flowering stage which often makes people feel like they are behind or farther ahead then they are
Click to expand...
this is what i needed lmao
 
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#36
I had a gdp that took 16 weeks to fully flower.... I ended up getting almost a full lb off her... had 1 other gdp with that 1 and it finished in about 9 or 10 weeks
 

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TheGreenGroomer

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#37
JKash said:
I had a gdp that took 16 weeks to fully flower.... I ended up getting almost a full lb off her... had 1 other gdp with that 1 and it finished in about 9 or 10 weeks
Click to expand...
intresting, wow such a beast 1lb is great!!!
 
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Bdubs

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#38
I am going to revive this a little. Continual white pistol growth is signaling that you have not altered the environment, lighting, nutrients appropriately. It is the transition to ripening. If the plant doesn’t get an idea that seasons are changing, the plant keeps growing more pistils and growth.
It means you missed the appropriate time to make those adjustments. You will need to lower light intensity, temps, humidity, nutrients, and possibly even lights on time. The goal for Pistils is to all be brown/orange before harvest. This is for dense and potent buds. But if you don’t make the proper changes at the proper time, you extend flowering growth which shows up as new white pistils. If temps remain higher you can even consider this foxtailing growth to air out the buds. New buds that push out the dense buds to air them out.
Consistency tells the plant what’s happening or coming up. Just a small blip of change for a day isn’t going to alter her. She needs 4-7 days of seeing a temp drop to make a shift ect. Same goes for all reductions that would signal her to transition.
So it is Not what indoor growers want to see. We control everything and extended white pistil growth is an indication of operator error in the grow process. You must make small adjustments and give consistency after making adjustments for the plant to properly transition her phases.
Time is not the only factor determining harvest and that is where the confusion happens.

If you were to drop temps for 3-4 days around week 5-6 and then pick it back up to where is was before the drop, you may see pistils brown and recede early during that cold time. But once the temps went back up she makes more white Pistils and stops browning pistils so much anymore. Because you tricked her into thinking it was time to mature but then told her with warmer temps that ooops cold weather isn’t coming to back to flowering. Had you kept the temps where they were when you lowered it, she would have continued gracefully into maturation and continual browning of the pistils. Then you could use trichomes as the signal.

Typically we say don’t go off pistols, but pistols are important to pay heed to. They Should be all orange/brown before trichomes are white amber. But we as home growers always see white pistil growth and figure it’s not significant. No pistil growth is a quality thing, it tells the consumer how well the cultivator did to guide the plant properly through her phases. You can get more potent bud from a plant that has no white pistils and trichomes are on point. Because think about it, you let the plant grow buds instead of focus resin. By the time you harvest with white pistils, you lost all that grow time of the plant being in resin production. So you will sacrifice max potency potential if your harvesting with straight standing white pistils in your buds.

Now, you will notice the colas closer to the light will always have pistils maturing slower. And the buds at the middle of the canopy level will seem to be maturing perfectly. That is because the top colas are warmer, more humid, get more light. Which all stalls maturation, or continued white pistil growth. So, that is why they say to look to the middle canopy buds for harvesting because the top buds just don’t mature the same rate, also why they say to harvest half and leave the others to go further and reduce the intensity for the remaining buds that need to finish more.

Am I painting a good picture of how pistils and the conditions we give and when and consistency plays a role in new pistil/bud growth? Wrap that up in a ball and ask yourself if you took the cultivars harvest times and made a plan for adjustments.

These posts are what leads growers to understand that cannabis is more complex. You don’t get to say it is easy until you understand all aspects of cannabis growth and we never stop learning. This is a critical topic because I see a lot of people ignoring pistils and focus trichomes. But pistils are a critical signal for us as growers to really pay heed to. That is, if we plan to grow the most chronic bud that our seeds can produce.

There are a lot of variables to what I am saying. I can’t elaborate further or I’d take all day. But this is it rolled into a ball.

If you want harvest on time to the cultivar and have the most potent and quality buds, you need to implement this info into your process and start altering your grow plan to incorporate shifts. If not, I call it a Continuation pattern.

I am not innocent, I extended pistil/calyx growth but I payed attention to it and made proper adjustments. But I added a week to my harvest window.

Good luck and happy growing to all.
 
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Farmville

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#39
Bdubs said:
I am going to revive this a little. Continual white pistol growth is signaling that you have not altered the environment, lighting, nutrients appropriately. It is the transition to ripening. If the plant doesn’t get an idea that seasons are changing, the plant keeps growing more pistils and growth.
It means you missed the appropriate time to make those adjustments. You will need to lower light intensity, temps, humidity, nutrients, and possibly even lights on time. The goal for Pistils is to all be brown/orange before harvest. This is for dense and potent buds. But if you don’t make the proper changes at the proper time, you extend flowering growth which shows up as new white pistils. If temps remain higher you can even consider this foxtailing growth to air out the buds. New buds that push out the dense buds to air them out.
Consistency tells the plant what’s happening or coming up. Just a small blip of change for a day isn’t going to alter her. She needs 4-7 days of seeing a temp drop to make a shift ect. Same goes for all reductions that would signal her to transition.
So it is Not what indoor growers want to see. We control everything and extended white pistil growth is an indication of operator error in the grow process. You must make small adjustments and give consistency after making adjustments for the plant to properly transition her phases.
Time is not the only factor determining harvest and that is where the confusion happens.

If you were to drop temps for 3-4 days around week 5-6 and then pick it back up to where is was before the drop, you may see pistils brown and recede early during that cold time. But once the temps went back up she makes more white Pistils and stops browning pistils so much anymore. Because you tricked her into thinking it was time to mature but then told her with warmer temps that ooops cold weather isn’t coming to back to flowering. Had you kept the temps where they were when you lowered it, she would have continued gracefully into maturation and continual browning of the pistils. Then you could use trichomes as the signal.

Typically we say don’t go off pistols, but pistols are important to pay heed to. They Should be all orange/brown before trichomes are white amber. But we as home growers always see white pistil growth and figure it’s not significant. No pistil growth is a quality thing, it tells the consumer how well the cultivator did to guide the plant properly through her phases. You can get more potent bud from a plant that has no white pistils and trichomes are on point. Because think about it, you let the plant grow buds instead of focus resin. By the time you harvest with white pistils, you lost all that grow time of the plant being in resin production. So you will sacrifice max potency potential if your harvesting with straight standing white pistils in your buds.

Now, you will notice the colas closer to the light will always have pistils maturing slower. And the buds at the middle of the canopy level will seem to be maturing perfectly. That is because the top colas are warmer, more humid, get more light. Which all stalls maturation, or continued white pistil growth. So, that is why they say to look to the middle canopy buds for harvesting because the top buds just don’t mature the same rate, also why they say to harvest half and leave the others to go further and reduce the intensity for the remaining buds that need to finish more.

Am I painting a good picture of how pistils and the conditions we give and when and consistency plays a role in new pistil/bud growth? Wrap that up in a ball and ask yourself if you took the cultivars harvest times and made a plan for adjustments.

These posts are what leads growers to understand that cannabis is more complex. You don’t get to say it is easy until you understand all aspects of cannabis growth and we never stop learning. This is a critical topic because I see a lot of people ignoring pistils and focus trichomes. But pistils are a critical signal for us as growers to really pay heed to. That is, if we plan to grow the most chronic bud that our seeds can produce.

There are a lot of variables to what I am saying. I can’t elaborate further or I’d take all day. But this is it rolled into a ball.

If you want harvest on time to the cultivar and have the most potent and quality buds, you need to implement this info into your process and start altering your grow plan to incorporate shifts. If not, I call it a Continuation pattern.

I am not innocent, I extended pistil/calyx growth but I payed attention to it and made proper adjustments. But I added a week to my harvest window.

Good luck and happy growing
Click to expand...


I got some blue dream that is pushing new pistol growth at 9 weeks of flower. The cultivar information says 9-11 weeks. Is this normal late flower development?
 
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TomsGarden

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#40
Scrogger2190 said:
Don't pay much attention to the pistols. Pay more attention to trichome developement/color. I'm not one to say when to harvest as everybody prefers harvesting at slightly different times. However, once you see 50% clear 50% milky you have entered the front end of the harvest window.myself I usually don't like to go past 50% amber 50%milky
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New outdoor grower also, cut mine when most pistols are brown, for the life of me i cant tell the color of the tricomes even with a glass. Do you think ill be ok?
 
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