Strawberry Mix Hydro-Blast......

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AliasAO

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Those roots look crazy SNOW, Ive never seen matted roots like that but then agian Im not very versed in DTW hydro yet. Is that normal?

And why do you suppose you will get Root rot with such rapid vigorious growth?

Keep me posted on the possible knocked up Straw Mix. Everything As always is looking Great. Keep up the love
 
Snowblind

Snowblind

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March 30

Im having a hard time cloning the Straw Mix phenos so far for some reason. This little clone, however, is starting to take off and as you know, If you have healthy roots, then you have a healthy plant. This girls roots are starting to explode after just a few days with some hydroton ballz.....it will recover fast from the cloning process...

If you look at a picture of the seedlings from Feb 5th its hard to believe that this little clone could be ready for the flower room in just another couple of weeks!! It has not even been 2 months since the plants birth from seed! Everything seems so fast for this little girl...
 
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AliasAO

660
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March 30

Im having a hard time cloning the Straw Mix phenos so far for some reason. This little clone, however, is starting to take off and as you know, If you have healthy roots, then you have a healthy plant. This girls roots are starting to explode after just a few days with some hydroton ballz.....it will recover fast from the cloning process...

If you look at a picture of the seedlings from Feb 5th its hard to believe that this little clone could be ready for the flower room in just another couple of weeks!! It has not even been 2 months since the plants birth from seed! Everything seems so fast for this little girl...

Good to see one survived.

Does that happen to be from the #3 tarantula PHENO??

I ended up salvaging 8 out of the original 15-20 cuttings I took.
 
ShivaSkunkPunk

ShivaSkunkPunk

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Look'n really good in here Snowblind, looks like were w/n days of each other, it'll be fun 2 c how ur pheno's finish up, Crazy root mass and best of luck on the cloning, all it takes is 1, take care

Peace Shiva
 
Shady

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Love the root porn and as always your girls look great! Snowblind is what I'll be when your girls start frosting up mad trichs... Got my shades ready... :cool
 
Snowblind

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April 5th

Here are some pictures from tonight. The plants are all really, really big. Im sure leaving the pump on twice for 12 hour stints didnt help things. Anyway. I did give one plant away, sending it to a better life up in Northern Cali. I also had to full on chop down (well I have not chopped it yet, it too hard, so its sitting in a little room all alone, awaiting its fate) a really big Strawberry plant. I forgot the pheno number. Might be number 2. I have too many plants on the tray so I need the space. Only in Cali would you even consider culling such a big female Strawberry Mix plant! Hey, table space is table space and I need it. Hope I got a clone of that plant going.......

I find its getting hard to take good pictures with all the plants so close together and with the canopy starting to get a little crazy up top. Normally I grow a semi SCROG style, however, from seed the first time I like to just let the plants go to see what happens. Otherwise I like to maintain a strict program of canopy management. Indoor cannabis needs proper control otherwise bad things will happen! Manage your canopies!

I had to crop pheno 7 as it was getting to tall and rangey. Number 7 started off small and grew very slowly, however, now it is a huge plant. The most sativa looking in terms of very thin leaves. When plants are this vigorous I have no problem cropping into flower as the plants have enough energy to not go floppy from the action of bending the stem. This plant looks to be very interesting. flowering a little slower than the other plants!

Pheno 3 is my favorite by far. Tried to get some StarDawg pollen all over it to see what will happen. I believe this plant is a StrawberryBubba pheno, however, we shall see. It will be a very good yielder, and looks to be flowering pretty fast, good early crystals, stiff branches, great structure and size, huge I mean huge fan leaves, however, they are not super wide, just huge, and a great early nose....


Sorry about the boring pictures......

I just sprayed with greencure today at a rate of 1 small scoop per 32 oz of H2O. I will spray this light dose once a week for the next few weeks regardless of whether or not I see PM. The greencure does burn the plants so use caution, hence my one small scoop per 32 oz of water...
 
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A

AliasAO

660
18
April 5th

Here are some pictures from tonight. The plants are all really, really big. Im sure leaving the pump on twice for 12 hour stints didnt help things. Anyway. I did give one plant away, sending it to a better life up in Northern Cali. I also had to full on chop down (well I have not chopped it yet, it too hard, so its sitting in a little room all alone, awaiting its fate) a really big Strawberry plant. I forgot the pheno number. Might be number 2. I have too many plants on the tray so I need the space. Only in Cali would you even consider culling such a big female Strawberry Mix plant! Hey, table space is table space and I need it. Hope I got a clone of that plant going.......

I find its getting hard to take good pictures with all the plants so close together and with the canopy starting to get a little crazy up top. Normally I grow a semi SCROG style, however, from seed the first time I like to just let the plants go to see what happens. Otherwise I like to maintain a strict program of canopy management. Indoor cannabis needs proper control otherwise bad things will happen! Manage your canopies!

I had to crop pheno 7 as it was getting to tall and rangey. Number 7 started off small and grew very slowly, however, now it is a huge plant. The most sativa looking in terms of very thin leaves. When plants are this vigorous I have no problem cropping into flower as the plants have enough energy to not go floppy from the action of bending the stem. This plant looks to be very interesting. flowering a little slower than the other plants!

Pheno 3 is my favorite by far. Tried to get some StarDawg pollen all over it to see what will happen. I believe this plant is a StrawberryBubba pheno, however, we shall see. It will be a very good yielder, and looks to be flowering pretty fast, good early crystals, stiff branches, great structure and size, huge I mean huge fan leaves, however, they are not super wide, just huge, and a great early nose....


Sorry about the boring pictures......

I just sprayed with greencure today at a rate of 1 small scoop per 32 oz of H2O. I will spray this light dose once a week for the next few weeks regardless of whether or not I see PM. The greencure does burn the plants so use caution, hence my one small scoop per 32 oz of water...

Still coming along nicely. Sorry to hear about the Chop down. Sad day when you have to Cut down a good healthy tree. Hows the #3 pheno looking, the tarantula?

When u say small scope, do you mean the VERY small scoop side that is attached to the larger scoop that comes in the greencure Jar or just a small sized scoop of the larger size?

[Ive been Using the very small scoop side, just making sure Im not WAY under what I need]
 
S

Stoney Macgyver

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Snowblind! The Grow looks great! Ive been looking for nutrients, and Jack's seems to be working wonders for you!
But I do have one question! You say you keep on a strict 5.7ph?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but to get full use of every nutrient don't you want to aim for 6.2-6.3? Because I know Phosphorus lock out completely stops between 6-6.5ph. And calcium and Magnesium don't completely unlock till about 7. I don't mean a complete nutrient lock-out. I'm just suggesting you could get more beneficial nutrients to the plants with a slightly higher PH
 
S

Stoney Macgyver

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And by no means am I dissing on your plants or grow! They look beautiful!
 
Snowblind

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Snowblind! The Grow looks great! Ive been looking for nutrients, and Jack's seems to be working wonders for you!
But I do have one question! You say you keep on a strict 5.7ph?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but to get full use of every nutrient don't you want to aim for 6.2-6.3? Because I know Phosphorus lock out completely stops between 6-6.5ph. And calcium and Magnesium don't completely unlock till about 7. I don't mean a complete nutrient lock-out. I'm just suggesting you could get more beneficial nutrients to the plants with a slightly higher PH

I strive to keep my nutes at a 5.7 ph, but there is fluctuation. Most elements as we know are absorbed over a range of ph. There are many growers who dont mind fluctation, or swings in their ph at all. In fact, if my ph didnt go up in my reso I would know something was up! I would think my plants were not absorbing N. A swing of ph from 5.7 to 6.7 would aid in the absorbtion of many nutrients over that range as you have correctly stated.

Most formulas are buffered to stabilize their ph's at a certain point. Utimately anywhere in that range of 5.7-6.5ish...6.7 would have benefits to your plants...then some lock outs in my mind.....I feel that I have obsessed with keeping my ph at 5.7 a little too much so far this grow. I will let the ph settle where it wants too from here on out with less manipulation on my end and with my next crop to observe the effects.

You got me to thinking. These are not my words but this post was a great read. I am quoting all of what follows about PH. Read this if you all are interested. Please post here if you do not agree with these statements about PH! Teach me.....

Some growers like the absorption of micro nutrients in the 5.7-6.0 range for hydro....


I also posted a few charts that you all might see floating around in various places...

Here is a great article by Daniel Fernandez

"When water reacts with itself to create the H3O(+)(hydroxyl) and OH(-) (hydroxide) species, one of the most fundamental and important characteristics of aqueous solutions is generated. The reactivity of a solution and its interaction with living organisms is determined in a great extent by the concentration of these two species, a variable usually measured as pH which is nothing but the negative value of the logarithm of the concentration of the H3O(+) ion. In hydroponic culture – where our plants are in great contact with aqueous solutions – the understanding of the role of the H3O(+) and OH(-) ions and their measurement as pH becomes very important if an in-depth understanding of what is going on wants to be attained. On today’s post I will attempt to guide you into this micro world of pH and how and why pH changes within a hydroponic crop. Tomorrow -on Part No.2 – I will try to explain to you how plants adapt to pH changes and what a pH change actually means for a living organism.
What determines pH ? This variable is inversely proportional to the concentration of H3O(+) ions and directly proportional to OH(-) ions, the more hydroxil ions you have the more acidic your solution will be (the lower the pH) while more hydroxide ions will increase your pH and give you a higher pH reading. It is important to understand here that hydroxyl and hydroxide ions determine each other’s concentration. Since water’s self-reaction equilibria must be maintained, the sum of pH and pOH must always be equal to 14 (a neat consequence of chemical equilibrium theory). When the concentration of hydroxyl and hydroxide ions is equal, pH and pOH contribute equally to the solution and they are therefore both 7, reason why the pH of a neutral solution has this value.

Now that we know a little bit about pH we can understand better what happens when plants interact with a nutrient solution. When a plant is put within a given solution it wants to absorb the nutrients it needs to grow. These nutrients are avilable as ions that have a given charge. For example, nitrogen is absorbed as the nitrate ion (NO3(-)) while potassium is absorbed as the K(+) ion. When a plant takes potassium in, it deplets the solution of a positive charge. Since the solution must remain neutral the plant gives the solution an H3O(+) ion to compensate. The plant has therefore decreased the pH of the solution by absorbing a potassium ion. When nitrate is absorbed – an ion with a negative charge- the plant does the opposite and exchanges the nitrate for an OH(-), the pH of the solution is increased.

If plants absorbed nutrients in a perfectly symmetrical fashion, they would not increase or decrease pH as overall charge changes would be compensated. However – as no one is perfect- plants absorb nutrients at different rates and they therefore create a “pull” towards a certain pH region. If a plant absorbs nitrate heavily it will start to contribute far more OH(-) than H3O(+) ions into the solution and the result will be a net increase in pH. Depending on the composition of the nutrients and the overall growth stage of the plant, different net movements in pH can be achieved by the plant.

The most influential factor in the changes of pH within a solution is generally the composition of the nitrogen component of the solution. When plants absorb ammonium ions NH4(+) they tend to decrease pH while nitrate – as mentioned above – tends to increase pH when absorbed. If you contribute a percentage of the nitrogen in your solution as ammonia the net effect will be a beneficial “absorption pH buffer” since plants will take nitrogen in both forms, effectively delaying the onset of important pH variations. Of course, the ratio of nutrients also performs a vital role since plants’ nutrient absorption mechanism are largely non-specific and they are greatly influenced by the different concentrations of nutrients within the solutions. Having a nutrient solution designed to provide an adequate balance will be vital in helping you control pH fluctuations.

On part two of this “understanding pH in Hydroponics” post I will talk about the range of pH plants can live in, how they adapt to changes in pH and other interesting aspects that will help you better understand the role and true importance of pH within a hydroponic crop. I hope that today you have acquired a rough idea of what pH represents, the nature of pH changes and some basic things that can be done to improve the pH balance within your hydroponic culture.


Yesterday – on the first part of this article – we talked about the nature of pH, the origin of pH changes in hydroponics growing and why these changes happen with time within a hydroponic culture, I also talked a little bit about how to prevent pH changes by building a balanced solution with a given percentage of nitrogen given as ammonium. On the second part of this article I am going to talk about the adaptation of plants against pH changes, why certain pH levels are needed and why there is an important over-focus on the importance of pH which does not need to be maintained in ranges as narrow as most growers believe.

What is the ideal range of pH for plant growth ? The fact is that plants can grow ideally from a pH of 5.5 to about 7.0. Above or below these values certain changes start to happen within the chemistry of the solution that makes nutrients less available to the plant. The large importance of adequate – yet not excessive – control of pH values is to maintain an optimum absorption of nutrients for your plants. When we go below a pH of 5.5 certain nutrients like iron become very readily available while nutrients like phosphorous and nitrogen become much less available. This lack of availability has two main causes. The first one is the overall change of chemical species within the solution, with the newly generated species being difficult or impossible to assimilate by the plant while the second one is that species that become extremely available generate a strong antagonic effect against some nutrients. For example, iron is antagonic with phosphorous and with a pH decrease below 5, the absoprtion of iron becomes extremely easy and therefore the aborption of P becomes more difficult, the overall formation of acid phosphate species which are also not so readily available by the plant further reduces P availability. An image shown below gives you a good idea of the availability of nutrients for plant growth as pH changes.

However most growers tend to believe that the pH level of their nutrient solution is the pH level that plants have around their roots, something which is actually not correct in the sense that plants have evolved local pH adaptation mechanisms to survive to changes in soil pH. When you measure the pH of your nutrient solution you are measuring the pH of the “bulk” while the pH of the actual root-zone of your plants might be within the ideal zone for nutrient absoprtion. Therefore growers usually underestimate the actual capacity of their plants to correct pH and spend an enormous amount of time tinkering with pH to make it “ideal”.

The fact here is that plants do not like abrupt pH changes like those that happen when you add pH up/down to continuously adjust your nutrient solution’s pH levels. Plants can deal perfectly with a slow pH increase caused by nutrient absorption from 5.5 to 6.5 but when you – in a matter of seconds – revert the pH back from 6.5 to 5.5 in a matter of seconds you are causing your plants significant levels of stress since they are simply not used within their natural environment to such quick pH changes.

The easiest way I have found to deal with pH is to simply not obsess with it. Most solutions that are well balanced and contain about 10-15% of the nitrogen as ammonium and about 20-40 ppm of phosphorous will adequately contain pH within the 5.5 to 7 pH region from the beginning of your nutrient cycle to the time when the nutrient solution has to be changed. As a matter of fact – beyond the initial adjustment – the changing of pH can be avoided if the nutrient solution is adequately formulated and given in a quantity of at least one gallon per plant. Plants develop well around these pH levels and the improvement you gain from obsessing about perfect pH zone levels will be lost by the stress you put into your plant roots with pH corrections. Of course, there are easy and almost perfect solutions to pH control like the method using ion exchange resins I mentioned in a previous post. A method that mimics the way in which pH is naturally buffered within soil.

Therefore if you want to have a great hydroponic crop with little maintenance and a very good yield I would advice you to prepare your own nutrients taking pH-self balancing and adequate nutrient ratios into account. Certainly this method will give you a lot of control over your composition and a great saving in solution costs.

I hope that after reading these two posts on pH in hydroponics you have now grown a much better understanding of how pH is, how it works and how it evolves in a hydroponic culture. It is very important for you to understand that pH plays a vital role in nutrient absorption but that obsessing with strict pH zones is not beneficial for your plants in the sense that constant additions that cause quick changes in pH values cause stress to their root zone. Adequate nutrient design and a good understanding of how nutrient interact is therefore important for the correct use and low maintenance of a hydroponic crop."
 
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A

AliasAO

660
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Snowblind! The Grow looks great! Ive been looking for nutrients, and Jack's seems to be working wonders for you!
But I do have one question! You say you keep on a strict 5.7ph?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but to get full use of every nutrient don't you want to aim for 6.2-6.3? Because I know Phosphorus lock out completely stops between 6-6.5ph. And calcium and Magnesium don't completely unlock till about 7. I don't mean a complete nutrient lock-out. I'm just suggesting you could get more beneficial nutrients to the plants with a slightly higher PH

Glad to see you took the advice on the NUTE regimen Stoney. SNOW has got quite the setup and as always he breaks it down to a science with details to boot.

When are we getting some more pics of the ladies SNOW?
 
Snowblind

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Ill try to get some pictures tonight. The pictures are not that exciting yet given my limitations with photography skills and being under the orange glare of the hps light. Im also a little down because Im not sure if the two clones of the "Tarantula" are going to live. The plant itself is so amazing I want to vomit for failing to clone it. I will never be arrogent about cloning again! I knew that plant was special. I should have taken like 20 clones of it to insure its survival. It is growing two colas that look like spears. Huge freaking spears. I cant believe the buds that are forming and the frost.

As I said before the StarDawg male hit everything with pollen, so I can see seeds pods forming on all the Straw Mix plants, including #3.

If the "Tarantula" finishes strong like I think she will I might just try and reveg to get a clone......anyone got any ideas....we are like 4 weeks in and all the branches are thick/indica like...I pray the 2 little cuttings can and will grow. I should know over the next week, I would guess, If they will produce any new growth. They look like crap though....
 
A

AliasAO

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Ill try to get some pictures tonight. The pictures are not that exciting yet given my limitations with photography skills and being under the orange glare of the hps light. Im also a little down because Im not sure if the two clones of the "Tarantula" are going to live. The plant itself is so amazing I want to vomit for failing to clone it. I will never be arrogent about cloning again! I knew that plant was special. I should have taken like 20 clones of it to insure its survival. It is growing two colas that look like spears. Huge freaking spears. I cant believe the buds that are forming and the frost.

As I said before the StarDawg male hit everything with pollen, so I can see seeds pods forming on all the Straw Mix plants, including #3.

If the "Tarantula" finishes strong like I think she will I might just try and reveg to get a clone......anyone got any ideas....we are like 4 weeks in and all the branches are thick/indica like...I pray the 2 little cuttings can and will grow. I should know over the next week, I would guess, If they will produce any new growth. They look like crap though....


Shit Snow thats one down side of keeping your plants so well trimmed, you never have a chance to get the perfect little underside cuttings. If I were you I would try to get a cut now at week 4 if you have ANYTHING thats not full on nugging. If thats not possible then i believe you may have to reveg or atleast harvest all seeds from the tarantula and start testing till you find her again or something in her resemblance. You know Ill help you sift through all those beans for some winners both male and female. I would love to let a good looking male nail my XJ13 Monster pheno MOM. They would produce something scaryyyyyyy. She was so easy to clone also all 5 cuttings rooted and have enormous healthy roots popping out all sides of the RW. Im transplanting them into CoCo and cups tomorrow. If ALL survive id like to give you ONE CUT of her for safe keeping and for any future project it may serve :harvest: No if ands or buts about it!!!

Looking forward to some pics of those spears. Glad to here other than the clone BS everything else is moving along..
 
S

Stoney Macgyver

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Im also a little down because Im not sure if the two clones of the "Tarantula" are going to live. The plant itself is so amazing I want to vomit for failing to clone it. I will never be arrogent about cloning again!
Hey SnowBlind! It's a long shot, but have you ever heard of Colloidal Silver? You could try to force her to created pollen pods in a selectmen area, and Same Plant pollinated seeds may have more of a chance of becoming Hermie, but its better that losing her all together, also last longer than clones. So instead of worrying about males just worry about Hermie, because they are feminized seeds. And you'll still get all your bud and also get a bud that you can pollinate.
 
Snowblind

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Anyone know what pheno this is ....? Is is AlienKush x Straw Cough? does anyone know........If its Alien then I have a special pheno....the bud is huge.....purple/pink hues...so frosty...I will post more pictures if you all want to see them.
 
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winta

winta

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wow...dont know which one it is but it looks fire either way! thanx for sharing! :)
 
Shady

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Looks dank either way Snowblind! How's the rest of the girls? What happened with the Stardawg? :wondering
 
Snowblind

Snowblind

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I will update slowly with more pictures as I work this week. Im taking them in raw so I have to edit and blah , blah , blah......takes a little time. I will also take more pictures of the drying buds......

I ended up growing 4 of the Strawberry Mix females due to space constraints. All 4 were very different. One I can see the Bubba in the mix. The "Tarantula" turned out to be amazing. Ive never had a plant grow quite like this one. The buds were huge. It made 2 incredibly big spears and six main branches. As big as the buds were/are the plant needed no supports! I found it mold resistent and easy to trim. Im praying that its Alien or something from male pollen. I cant wait to find out....
 
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InvisibleM

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Impressive monster buds you got there Snowblind. I think alien is a good guess because of the crystals on the bigger leaves. What's it smell like?
 
Snowblind

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A few more pictures of a little bud drying......Pheno #3

I will take pictures of all the phenos. Sorry about my poor quality pictures. I still am figuring out my camera and I need a damn tripod!
 
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