Stunted autos during first run?

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Kapnkush4256

Kapnkush4256

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Hey guys,

Running my first set of autos this grow and ive been struggling with temp fluctuations recently. A few nights the heater didnt turn on and my seedlings were in a tent that was roughly 10-15c which i assumed really stunted their growth.

The plants are about 15 days from first set of true leaves. Temps stay between 20-25c during the days and abouy 15-20c at night with the heater (when it turns on). When the heater is on it really pulls the moisture from the air and drops my humidity from about 50-60% to about 25-30% which probably isnt too good for seedling.

Im watering every 2-3 days or so, underwatered when they were first starting to pop out of the soil and im probably overwatering now. Ph is about 6 during watering.

Here are some pictures
2 strawberrt cheese in coco/soil mix
Stunted autos during first run

2 wedding cake, top in living soil and bottom in coco/soil mix
Stunted autos during first run 2

2 wedding cake, top in living soil and bottom in coco/soil mix
Stunted autos during first run 3
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Dark devil in living soil
Stunted autos during first run 4
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I'm out the door here but PH I wouldn't worry about unless using silica.

Water the media to get it all moist the let it dry out before water again. The top soil may be dry but the tap root grows straight down and there will definitely be water there in those pot sizes.

Humidity is the least of your issues would go nuts over it. The heat is not pulling the moisture out. Warm air simply holds more water so the % only saturation will go down as tenls increase with the same amount of water in the air.

Once ya fix up the rest then work on the humidity.

Couple links you may find useful. One on PH and why I don't feel you need to in soil or buffered media and the other on watering.




Check back in a while if someone hasn't got ya sorted
 
Mr.GreenthumbOG

Mr.GreenthumbOG

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15 days since you popped the beans? Or??
 
Kapnkush4256

Kapnkush4256

44
18
I'm out the door here but PH I wouldn't worry about unless using silica.

Water the media to get it all moist the let it dry out before water again. The top soil may be dry but the tap root grows straight down and there will definitely be water there in those pot sizes.

Humidity is the least of your issues would go nuts over it. The heat is not pulling the moisture out. Warm air simply holds more water so the % only saturation will go down as tenls increase with the same amount of water in the air.

Once ya fix up the rest then work on the humidity.

Couple links you may find useful. One on PH and why I don't feel you need to in soil or buffered media and the other on watering.




Check back in a while if someone hasn't got ya sorted
Much appreciated! i had a few different people telling me to let it dry out before watering and others telling me to keep it moist the entire time. I wasnt 100% sure what to do so i was sort of stuck between a rock and a hard place.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Pit stop coco/soil will need to be watered slightly differently. Just to point out. But still moisten all the media. It may also need some phing of the nutrients depending on the mix.
 
Kapnkush4256

Kapnkush4256

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So they are only about 2 weeks old total from sprouting. I wouldn’t assume they are stunted then at this point.
Sweet thanks for the help :) first time from seed so im overthinking everything to be honest. Dont want to stunt the autos as i know they arent as forgiving as photos
 
Mr.GreenthumbOG

Mr.GreenthumbOG

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would you suggest starting off in something like a solo cup and then transplanting into their final pots? I know transplanting can stunt and slow growth for autos so i was really wary of doing that this run.
I start in small container. I transplanted my last batch twice. If your on point they don’t skip a beat.
 
freezeland2

freezeland2

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would you suggest starting off in something like a solo cup and then transplanting into their final pots? I know transplanting can stunt and slow growth for autos so i was really wary of doing that this run.


Try to avoid transplanting autos. If growing in living soil planting the seed in a cyclops of seed starting mix helps. Planting an auto directly in living soil or any seed for that matter direct in living soil can be a little to hot nutrient wise for the first few weeks of plant life.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Try to avoid transplanting autos. If growing in living soil planting the seed in a cyclops of seed starting mix helps. Planting an auto directly in living soil or any seed for that matter direct in living soil can be a little to hot nutrient wise for the first few weeks of plant life.
Honestly most plants I have transplanted are happier after. Of course how it's done is important. Slight massage to lose the root ball into a premoistened soil then reduced lighting and increased humidity for 24 hrs and you would never know. I think container size is important not only for watering but building the roots in a manner that benefits the plant after transplant.

Of course this is not a must but I do feel personally it's a significant benefit and makes watering much easier.
 
freezeland2

freezeland2

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Honestly most plants I have transplanted are happier after. Of course how it's done is important. Slight massage to lose the root ball into a premoistened soil then reduced lighting and increased humidity for 24 hrs and you would never know. I think container size is important not only for watering but building the roots in a manner that benefits the plant after transplant.

Of course this is not a must but I do feel personally it's a significant benefit and makes watering much easier.


You make all good points. You are an experienced grower. For a new grower who selected auto flowers as their first grow probably wouldn’t be as successful as yourself with transplanting an auto a couple times. But living soil can be to hot to directly sow a seed in. So there is the problem. How to avoid replanting with an auto to be grown in living soil. A cyclops can help a new grower avoid all those problems with using living soil. That was my point of my post.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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You make all good points. You are an experienced grower. For a new grower who selected auto flowers as their first grow probably wouldn’t be as successful as yourself with transplanting an auto a couple times. But living soil can be to hot to directly sow a seed in. So there is the problem. How to avoid replanting with an auto to be grown in living soil. A cyclops can help a new grower avoid all those problems with using living soil. That was my point of my post.
Fair enough. There is a work around for that though... soak the solo cup worth of living soil or flush with water. That will remove all the available nutrients and in large part the microbes that break them down... essentially giving a media with little to no available nutrients until the microbes population bounces back and that can be weeks depending ... can be weeks before it even activates to start with unless it was allowed to start early. The main concern would be ammonia content if new a fast flush and no worries
 
Mr.GreenthumbOG

Mr.GreenthumbOG

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Honestly most plants I have transplanted are happier after. Of course how it's done is important. Slight massage to lose the root ball into a premoistened soil then reduced lighting and increased humidity for 24 hrs and you would never know. I think container size is important not only for watering but building the roots in a manner that benefits the plant after transplant.

Of course this is not a must but I do feel personally it's a significant benefit and makes watering much easier.
It’s the only way I do it. Watering is more challenging in a large container. I like to water fully, so I pot up.
 
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