Super Soil Opinions And Help

Hello everyone,

it is the first time that I approach growing with a totally organic mixture. I'd like your opinion on the super soil mix I built.

I was inspired by the recipe of Clackamas Coots, but using fertilizers and soil improvers that are available in my country ... because unfortunately some fertilizers cannot be found.


1/3 mix blond peat, black peat, fibrous peat
1/3 worm casting
1/3 perlite

For cubic foot:

1/2 Cup: Powder mixture of brown marine algae such as Ascophyllum, Fucales, Laminariales.

1/2 Cup: the recipe would say Crab/Crustacean Meal, but in my country it is not found as fertilizer.
In fish culture stores I found these products: Crayfish Meal and Krill Meal. Obviously they are sold as fish food and not fertilizers... but I think it could be fine anyway, what do you think?

1/2 Cup: Neem cake


1 Cup: volcanic basalt

1 Cup: zeolite

1 Cup: Gypsum alabaster anhydrous or Gypsum hydrate?

1 Cup: Lithothamnium Calcareum (85% calcium carbonate and 15% magnesium)


I also have these articles (and since I have them, I would love to use them):

- Silica sand - quarzite - SiO2: 83,32%

- Chilean red guano NPK 1-5-1,3

- BioNova Organic Profimix NPK 6-4-8

and this products that I bought for bonsai:

- Fertilizer BIO C3 NPK 6,5-6-6
Organic fertilizer with trace elements.
Delivers high-quality nutrients to all kind of outdoor plants.
The effect appears already after 12 days (at 15 °C)
and continues for 60-70 days approximately.
Small pallets have nearly no optical effect on bonsais.
Can be used immediately after repotting.
The percentage of nitrogen derives from chicken feather flour as well as fermented cow dung.
The percentage of potassium derives from potassium phosphate obtained from sugar beet.
Contains additional trace elements which derive from natural components.

- BonsaiMaster NPK 3,6-3,6-3,1
Organic fertilizer, based on the dropping of the larval stage mod mealworm beetles (flour worms), thermomechanically processed into pellet shape.
The effects of the fertilizers result from the structure of the insect's digestive system which, in contrast to mammals or birds, processes much less organic material and has a more efficient method of digesting and nutrients intake. Thus the fertilizer gets perfectly decomposed when used and does not burden the substrate.
Thanks to the well-balanced content of the main biogenic elements (N, P, K) and the presence of secondary biogenic elements (Ca, S, Mg) and trace elements (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu, B), the fertilizer positively affects plants and supports the easy intake of nutrients. The possibility of overfertilization is thus eliminated.
Ther fertilizer provides important substances for plant nutrition, boots the fertility of the soil and secures the presence of biological life within the soil. It speeds up the root system growth, increases the resistance of plants to pests and bacteria and improves the flabour, quality and yield.
 

Jack og

JackOG
Staff member
1,904
263
Hello everyone,

it is the first time that I approach growing with a totally organic mixture. I'd like your opinion on the super soil mix I built.

I was inspired by the recipe of Clackamas Coots, but using fertilizers and soil improvers that are available in my country ... because unfortunately some fertilizers cannot be found.


1/3 mix blond peat, black peat, fibrous peat
1/3 worm casting
1/3 perlite

For cubic foot:

1/2 Cup: Powder mixture of brown marine algae such as Ascophyllum, Fucales, Laminariales.

1/2 Cup: the recipe would say Crab/Crustacean Meal, but in my country it is not found as fertilizer.
In fish culture stores I found these products: Crayfish Meal and Krill Meal. Obviously they are sold as fish food and not fertilizers... but I think it could be fine anyway, what do you think?

{ fish food isn’t broken down persay into compostable product} if u do want to use this, compost it.

1/2 Cup: Neem cake


1 Cup: volcanic basalt

1 Cup: zeolite

1 Cup: Gypsum alabaster anhydrous or Gypsum hydrate?
{Hydrate , soluble }

1 Cup: Lithothamnium Calcareum (85% calcium carbonate and 15% magnesium)


I also have these articles (and since I have them, I would love to use them):

- Silica sand - quarzite - SiO2: 83,32%

- Chilean red guano NPK 1-5-1,3

- BioNova Organic Profimix NPK 6-4-8

and this products that I bought for bonsai:

- Fertilizer BIO C3 NPK 6,5-6-6
Organic fertilizer with trace elements.
Delivers high-quality nutrients to all kind of outdoor plants.
The effect appears already after 12 days (at 15 °C)
and continues for 60-70 days approximately.
Small pallets have nearly no optical effect on bonsais.
Can be used immediately after repotting.
The percentage of nitrogen derives from chicken feather flour as well as fermented cow dung.
The percentage of potassium derives from potassium phosphate obtained from sugar beet.
Contains additional trace elements which derive from natural components.

- BonsaiMaster NPK 3,6-3,6-3,1
Organic fertilizer, based on the dropping of the larval stage mod mealworm beetles (flour worms), thermomechanically processed into pellet shape.
The effects of the fertilizers result from the structure of the insect's digestive system which, in contrast to mammals or birds, processes much less organic material and has a more efficient method of digesting and nutrients intake. Thus the fertilizer gets perfectly decomposed when used and does not burden the substrate.
Thanks to the well-balanced content of the main biogenic elements (N, P, K) and the presence of secondary biogenic elements (Ca, S, Mg) and trace elements (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu, B), the fertilizer positively affects plants and supports the easy intake of nutrients. The possibility of overfertilization is thus eliminated.
Ther fertilizer provides important substances for plant nutrition, boots the fertility of the soil and secures the presence of biological life within the soil. It speeds up the root system growth, increases the resistance of plants to pests and bacteria and improves the flabour, quality and yield.
Few tweaks I noted but it seems you are on the right path based on product available there.
Add coco noir if u can find it/ with perlite as well.
Soil wetter and helps drainage.
Mix should be cured for a month at the minimum and plants going in must be root bound vegged plants , it’s will fry younger plants. Go from solo cup to 1 gal and get em fairly root bound before using this mix.
I added to your msg a few notes so click to expand and read what I noted in {}
 
Few tweaks I noted but it seems you are on the right path based on product available there.
Add coco noir if u can find it/ with perlite as well.
Soil wetter and helps drainage.
Mix should be cured for a month at the minimum and plants going in must be root bound vegged plants , it’s will fry younger plants. Go from solo cup to 1 gal and get em fairly root bound before using this mix.
I added to your msg a few notes so click to expand and read what I noted in {}
yes of course. when they go outdoors they will be already sexed and in 1.5 gal pots... they have just germinated and will go outside in the middle of May.

about crab meals,
these are the products: https://www.ccmoore.com/crayfish-meal-p-2491.html and https://www.ccmoore.com/krill-meal-p-591.html

the Krill meal I found identical (at least it seems) for sale as a fertilizer in an online grow shop... http://www.indoororganics.co.uk/product/crab-meal/

thanks for sharing
 
I forgot...

the soil will rest for an abundant month

I'm not so convinced to use these carp fishing meals... if it becomes too problematic I prefer to modify the recipe with a mix of dried blood, bones and guano

although I would have liked to try the original Coots recipe for all the reasons behind the choice of these fertilizers...

sorry for my bad english
 

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