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Systemic PM treatments

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Systemic PM treatments

cottageman Jun 26, 2019 40 Replies 14,457 Views
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Dirtbag

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#21
I wasnt recommending banner maxx. Just looking it up as I use it at work on turf.. Did you notice the part where Logic also recommended a sulphur burner?

In your thread about regalia you felt the need to point out how some people wont stfu and recommend sulphur even though it's stupid because you can only use it up to midway through flower. Which isnt true, you can use it once a week up to two weeks before chop time, and that gets you through to harvest. With no detectable sulphur in the finished product, it volatilizes easily and is absorbed by the plant and used as a ripening nutrient.

I'm not sure why all my comments are rubbing you the wrong way lately, I think using products like regalia are great, but if PM is present (As it is for the OP of this thread) and your trying to stop it in its tracks, nothing short of sulphur or a chemical fungicide is going to stop it. Period. This thread isnt about preventing the contraction of PM, it's about preventing the spread of PM once you already have it.
 
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Burned Haze

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#22
If you have pm already and your a LP = throw it away and clean tools , floors, pots and anything else with h2o2 than physan 20 to guarantee success .

Pm is like aids ( don’t be a ass and think you can use non regulated to save your pheno’s, trust me there’s new ones and seeds show better resistance )

There is no solution/cure , thus only preventive and prevention before and why are you putting logic in this for using banner maxx?? cap endorsing floramite ( which he did in the thread) that could of been a old even topic jut like that cap thread, your talking almost 10 years old.... ( they prolly don’t even use it )

That has nothing to do with this, kinda like how you said regalia wasn’t even regulated for cannabis ?, didn’t you even check any states banned/ approval lists before spitting that? ( that’s confusing and false and makes people not want to buy it ,they have approved in majority states and they even made a label for aka CG Canada aka rx )
 
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Dirtbag

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#23
Burned Haze said:
If you have pm alreadyand your a LP = throw it away and clean tools , floors, pots and anything else with h2o2 than physan 20 to guarantee success .

Pm is like aids ( don’t be a ass and think you can use non regulated to save your pheno’s, trust me there’s new ones and seeds show better resistance )

There is no solution/cure , thus only preventive and prevention before and why are you putting logic in this for using banner maxx?? cap endorsing floramite ( which he did in the thread) that could of been a old even topic jut like that cap thread, your talking almost 10 years old.... ( they prolly don’t even use it )

That has nothing to do with this, kinda like how you said regalia wasn’t even regulated for cannabis ?, didn’t you even check any states banned/ approval lists before spitting that? ( that’s confusing and false and makes people not want to buy it ,they have approved in majority states and they even made a label for aka CG Canada aka rx )
Click to expand...

Dude, are you even actually reading and comprehending anything I write? I said I wasnt sure if it is even registered for use up here yet, as in to say, I'm not sure if we can even buy it or if LPs are using it yet... As in to say, I have no personal experience with it. From what I've read of it it's an amazing product that has shown excellent efficacy preventing PM, and is perfectly safe to use right up to harvest. It's probably pretty easy to make homemade also as it's apparently just resveratrol. Also, I'm not an LP, just a grower. AND I did cure my plants of PM and completely eliminate it over a couple crop cycles by suppressing it with sulphur so it couldnt reproduce. It's gone, it's not incurable, unlike aids.

And if you think I'm stupid for not turning down a cut of the real deal pre-98 bubba kush because of PM, I dont even know what to say. That's insane.

Either way you'll find a way to argue with me. It's like your skimming my posts looking for something to fight about ever since I said your plants looked a bit crispy lol.
 
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Variety719

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#24
Dirtbag said:
I wasnt recommending banner maxx. Just looking it up as I use it at work on turf.. Did you notice the part where Logic also recommended a sulphur burner?

In your thread about regalia you felt the need to point out how some people wont stfu and recommend sulphur even though it's stupid because you can only use it up to midway through flower. Which isnt true, you can use it once a week up to two weeks before chop time, and that gets you through to harvest. With no detectable sulphur in the finished product, it volatilizes easily and is absorbed by the plant and used as a ripening nutrient.

I'm not sure why all my comments are rubbing you the wrong way lately, I think using products like regalia are great, but if PM is present (As it is for the OP of this thread) and your trying to stop it in its tracks, nothing short of sulphur or a chemical fungicide is going to stop it. Period. This thread isnt about preventing the contraction of PM, it's about preventing the spread of PM once you already have it.
Click to expand...
It’s Canadian approved therefore we should all use it up to the day of harvest because his friend uses it that way. :D
 
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Fatboy

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#25
Has anyone used bacillus amyloliquifaciens d747?
 
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cottageman

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#26
A little update. I took over this small warehouse and when I took it over the previous owner had gotten fungas gnats, spider mites, and pm into the room the grow before I took over. I have gotten the spider mites out, I have not completely killed the fungus gnats but I have gotten them down to the point where they are just a bit annoying, but the pm issue has stayed. I keep it under control with frequent spraying and humidity control but I have never eliminated it, just resorted to really pm resistant strains. I upped the airflow in my veg room, and started spraying procidic 2, and after 2 applications and better airflow I have not seen pm in my veg in about 2 weeks. I am sure it is not completely gone so I am still spraying frequently but I have gotten the best results ever after 2 applications or so. I have also been foliar feeding silica, yucca and bene bacteria for a little boost as well.
 
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cemchris

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#27
You really can't cure it once you have it. It's more of controlling re-inoculation of all the spores and cleaning repeatedly after you get it to prevent it in the future. Even going the hardcore chem route you are still dealing with spores and the cleanup afterwards. That will kill it but its not some once and done treatment like everything else isn't either. It is like the plague if you don't take a proactive approach. It's def curable but fully curable isn't some 1 week treatment. There is multi approaches that work.

In a commercial setting with multi rooms you are almost better off killing everything, cooking rooms, chlorine bombing the entire place a couple times, and then popping seeds cause with crazy plant counts its pretty much impossible to fully get rid of but you can control it. Not impossible but almost.
 
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Fatboy

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#28
Is there anyway we can have a discussion with out the bickering?
 
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Variety719

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#29
cemchris said:
You really can't cure it once you have it. It's more of controlling re-inoculation of all the spores and cleaning repeatedly after you get it to prevent it in the future. Even going the hardcore chem route you are still dealing with spores and the cleanup afterwards. That will kill it but its not some once and done treatment like everything else isn't either. It is like the plague if you don't take a proactive approach. It's def curable but fully curable isn't some 1 week treatment. There is multi approaches that work.

In a commercial setting with multi rooms you are almost better off killing everything, cooking rooms, chlorine bombing the entire place a couple times, and then popping seeds cause with crazy plant counts its pretty much impossible to fully get rid of but you can control it. Not impossible but almost.
Click to expand...
I always reccomend fixing the husbandry issues before anything else. Sometimes people set up tents with no ventilation or just venting into the room making it a breeding ground for pm.
 
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Variety719

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#30
Fatboy said:
Is there anyway we can have a discussion with out the bickering?
Click to expand...
If everyone is being a grown up sure.
 
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cottageman

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#31
I’m sorry but I do not buy in to the “you can’t kill it” because I have had more than one person tell me they have “cured” it and people told me that I couldn’t fix my root aphid problem and I should just burn and start over but I cured that. I will keep on it with the sprays and will probably get a sulfur vaporizer and start burning sulfur in my veg as well but we will see how it goes!
 
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Jack og

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#32
Sm90, if u can get em, works wonders on pm but like everyone stated , it’s all about control, prevention, The environment is key to battling this. And again strain depending. Some strains a susceptible to this and some more resistance. All comes down to a IPM that includes mold control.
Also keep the convos within margins of the site. In fighting is counterproductive, we all ya e the same goals and passion for the product and I welcome all view points but personal attacks will not be tolerated.
 
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PlumberSoCal

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#33
Dirtbag said:
I wasnt recommending banner maxx. Just looking it up as I use it at work on turf.. Did you notice the part where Logic also recommended a sulphur burner?

In your thread about regalia you felt the need to point out how some people wont stfu and recommend sulphur even though it's stupid because you can only use it up to midway through flower. Which isnt true, you can use it once a week up to two weeks before chop time, and that gets you through to harvest. With no detectable sulphur in the finished product, it volatilizes easily and is absorbed by the plant and used as a ripening nutrient.

I'm not sure why all my comments are rubbing you the wrong way lately, I think using products like regalia are great, but if PM is present (As it is for the OP of this thread) and your trying to stop it in its tracks, nothing short of sulphur or a chemical fungicide is going to stop it. Period. This thread isnt about preventing the contraction of PM, it's about preventing the spread of PM once you already have it.
Click to expand...
Sulfer on my wife's pole beans as a preventive is working well. Thanks man!
 
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Dirtbag

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#34
PlumberSoCal said:
Sulfer on my wife's pole beans as a preventive is working well. Thanks man!
Click to expand...

Right on. It might look a bit strange with the white sulphur powder on the leaves, but it's way better than mildew on the leaves lol.
 
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cemchris

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#35
cottageman said:
I’m sorry but I do not buy in to the “you can’t kill it” because I have had more than one person tell me they have “cured” it and people told me that I couldn’t fix my root aphid problem and I should just burn and start over but I cured that. I will keep on it with the sprays and will probably get a sulfur vaporizer and start burning sulfur in my veg as well but we will see how it goes!
Click to expand...

Oh you can def kill it. The problem is that isn't a pest. The interval is much longer for pm and a lot of time you see people stop treating since they don't see it anymore and it will pop back up from the spores. Pair treating the plants with religious cleaning. That is something I can;t stress enough. H202, Bleach, Pysan, some kind of commercial chlorine treatment the food industry uses. As stated sulfur burners and sulfur treatments work really good at control. Atomizing sulfur works even better then spraying if you have the right PPE and gear or use a burner. The whole reason I bleach my rooms top to bottom after each run and veg once a month is for this exact reason. That is a fight I never want to do again.
 
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Aqua Man

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#36
I'm not going to comment on treatment as I have never had to yet. This will be controversial but if I had to deal with it I would chuck everything. Treat my room with UVC wearing proper ppe and possibly install an inline UVC to destroy any airborne spores. Which is something I may consider doing next grow as a preventative.
 
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Dirtbag

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#37
cemchris said:
Oh you can def kill it. The problem is that isn't a pest. The interval is much longer for pm and a lot of time you see people stop treating since they don't see it anymore and it will pop back up from the spores. Pair treating the plants with religious cleaning. That is something I can;t stress enough. H202, Bleach, Pysan, some kind of commercial chlorine treatment the food industry uses. As stated sulfur burners and sulfur treatments work really good at control. Atomizing sulfur works even better then spraying if you have the right PPE and gear or use a burner. The whole reason I bleach my rooms top to bottom after each run and veg once a month is for this exact reason. That is a fight I never want to do again.
Click to expand...

For sure, the best thing about sulphur vapor is it kills the spores everywhere if you burn long enough. It's a total fumigant. But like you said it will come back if you dont keep up treatment over a couple generations.
The problem is because even though the sulphur kills the spores, the mildew in the plant survives and is just suppressed, and waiting for conditions to become favorable again,.. then it begins to spread through the plant, reappears and spreads spores, and starts all over again. You have to suppress the mildew in the plant long enough that eventually you get clean cuttings because the mildew hasnt spread to the new plant tissue. For me it took 3 generations, or about 6 months of treatment.
 
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cemchris

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#38
Dirtbag said:
For sure, the best thing about sulphur vapor is it kills the spores everywhere if you burn long enough. It's a total fumigant. But like you said it will come back if you dont keep up treatment over a couple generations.
The problem is because even though the sulphur kills the spores, the mildew in the plant survives and is just suppressed, and waiting for conditions to become favorable again,.. then it begins to spread through the plant, reappears and spreads spores, and starts all over again. You have to suppress the mildew in the plant long enough that eventually you get clean cuttings because the mildew hasnt spread to the new plant tissue. For me it took 3 generations, or about 6 months of treatment.
Click to expand...

Also once you have it and knock it down start to really check your plants constantly. Once you see PM on the leaves you have had it for a min. PM will start on the stems and then spread to the leaves. If you catch it at that stage if it re-emerges you will have a way easier time then once it gets in all of the canopy. Same it took a good full year(bout 5 generations) for me to finally get fully rid of it in all of my flower rooms and veg. Killed my Killer Queen mom cause that plant is a neodymium magnet for PM. Not worth the risk. I was semi vigilant with IPM before that. Now I'm like a nazi with it specially with outside plants.

I knew sulfur killed the spores I just took the extra step and acted like a meat packing plant with the cleaning and do the same now after each run.
 
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Dirtbag

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#39
cemchris said:
Also once you have it and knock it down start to really check your plants constantly. Once you see PM on the leaves you have had it for a min. PM will start on the stems and then spread to the leaves. If you catch it at that stage if it re-emerges you will have a way easier time then once it gets in all of the canopy. Same it took a good full year(bout 5 generations) for me to finally get fully rid of it in all of my flower rooms and veg. Killed my Killer Queen mom cause that plant is a neodymium magnet for PM. Not worth the risk. I was semi vigilant with IPM before that. Now I'm like a nazi with it specially with outside plants.

I knew sulfur killed the spores I just took the extra step and acted like a meat packing plant with the cleaning and do the same now after each run.
Click to expand...


Same. I blast my room with bleach in an HPLV paint sprayer between cycles too.
 
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Burned Haze

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#40
Why ( majority ) of greenhouses agriculture industry uses anti algae/virus and fungus instead of bleach? It would take multiple times to kill it and it’s even dangerous to breath (bleech think if you were trying to clean mass amounts of area and a greenhouse that’s hot ) and use, my question is why use it? It’s not much/if any cheaper per gallon and def not worth it in my books. I h202 ( at 5% to clean the dust and then physan and let it dry) hell I use it on my bathroom and in my kitchen, it’s bomb and guaranteed sterilized

Hints why bleach evaporations rate is too quick for many diseases that take minimum 10-15 minutes to kill, Physan 20 will solve that issue when it will stay there till rinsed off . way better defense ? I think so


https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ho/ho-250-w.pdf


Sterilize your rooms weekly, sterilize your rez’s, sterilize everything and your issues will go down. But if you gotta use dangerous shit. Fuck that
 
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Replies 40
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Started Jun 26, 2019
Latest post Aug 4, 2019
Starter cottageman
Forum Advanced Techniques & Problems

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