Taco Effect??

  • Thread starter Buttercup726
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Buttercup726

Buttercup726

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On the single leaf pics I see some white spots, have you been spraying? Also what is your medium and pH?

Pro mix hp
Ph 6.3 highest 6.5
I sprayed with some green cleaner. I became paranoid of russet/broad. I want to flip the switch but I wanna correct the issue before I go into flower
 
Buttercup726

Buttercup726

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Just looked again at the pics, you've got some nute issue. I suspect overfeeding/bad feeding. What, exactly, and how much/often, are you feeding it. What is soil pH?

Not sure about the soil ph. I should get a ph soil reader. Feeding pretty much every third day. Feed feed then a feeding of caps bennies w molasses and insect frass. Feed til about 15 percent run off. I’m thinking you might be right.

Would a good neutral ph flush do the trick?
 
Buttercup726

Buttercup726

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Run off ph (using my standard Hanna hand held ph reader) came out to be 5.3!!!

So it’s full point plus of a difference of what’s going in to what’s going out.
 
OldManRiver

OldManRiver

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Run off ph (using my standard Hanna hand held ph reader) came out to be 5.3!!!

So it’s full point plus of a difference of what’s going in to what’s going out.
Home Depot and similar sell a cheap soil pH meter, for about 15 bucks, that will be close enough for government work. Get that and put in moist soil, wait for a min. 5.3 is pretty fooking low. You might get some Lilly Soil Sweet while you're at it, cuz your pH is probably pretty low, and that's the fix. If the soil pH is out of range, you'll get lockout, and that could easily be the cause of the mottling above. This is the meter. Yeah, it's cheezy, but they work for me. https://www.amazon.com/Moisture-Gar...+checker+soil&qid=1555093391&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Feeding ever three days is fairly intense. I feed once a week. You didn't list details about how much you are using per gallon. Mixing random shit in like you are doing is a recipe for "What's wrong with my plant" posts. I would get a known solid fertilizer, and use -just- that, at half to 2/3 recommended strength. I suggest Botanicare Gro and Bloom. If you must add something, add a -small- amount of a micro-nutrient mix, like GH Trio micro. Botanicare contains cal-mag, so no need for that. Hydrogaurd is useless in soil, you can stop that. It doesn't hurt, but it's for maintaining healthy hydro tanks. Molasses is a placebo, so can ignore that. I have no idea what insect frass is, haven't needed it in 40 years of growing, suggest you eliminate that.

Simplify and reduce feeding, and figure out the soil pH. We'll work from there.
 
OldManRiver

OldManRiver

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Just looked at Insect Frass. Chitin won't hurt, but it really isn't necessary. The mix that popped up on Google had NPK numbers, so if you're using that, that will contribute to your feed load, and again, possible overfeeding. I repeat my above caution, adding tons of shit to your nute mix is a recipe for "What's wrong with my plant" posts. Study this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant_nutrition. If it ain't on that list, your plant doesn't need it. Some additives can indeed help, but you'll get best results from light feeding of major nutes in a good pH soil. There is NO need for fancy nutes/additives to achieve stellar results. I have grown killer weed for a LONG time with just the basics. Most additives have some amount of NPK, and that all adds up, to often create toxic nute loads in the soil. If you don't know why you are adding it, in light of the information in the wikipedia article, it's usually wiser to not do it.

New growers look at nutes as food. They aren't. They are more like vitamins. Plants use them in small quantities to build cells from primarily carbon from CO2. Adding nutes that the plant isn't needing just creates toxic situations. Less is often more.
 
Buttercup726

Buttercup726

121
28
Home Depot and similar sell a cheap soil pH meter, for about 15 bucks, that will be close enough for government work. Get that and put in moist soil, wait for a min. 5.3 is pretty fooking low. You might get some Lilly Soil Sweet while you're at it, cuz your pH is probably pretty low, and that's the fix. If the soil pH is out of range, you'll get lockout, and that could easily be the cause of the mottling above. This is the meter. Yeah, it's cheezy, but they work for me. https://www.amazon.com/Moisture-Gar...+checker+soil&qid=1555093391&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Feeding ever three days is fairly intense. I feed once a week. You didn't list details about how much you are using per gallon. Mixing random shit in like you are doing is a recipe for "What's wrong with my plant" posts. I would get a known solid fertilizer, and use -just- that, at half to 2/3 recommended strength. I suggest Botanicare Gro and Bloom. If you must add something, add a -small- amount of a micro-nutrient mix, like GH Trio micro. Botanicare contains cal-mag, so no need for that. Hydrogaurd is useless in soil, you can stop that. It doesn't hurt, but it's for maintaining healthy hydro tanks. Molasses is a placebo, so can ignore that. I have no idea what insect frass is, haven't needed it in 40 years of growing, suggest you eliminate that.

Simplify and reduce feeding, and figure out the soil pH. We'll work from there.

Old mannnn River with the knowledge bro. Thanks mann. Appreciate your time and effort. Using emerald harvest for vegging. I’ll def get that soil ph reader. Fairly cheap and within my budget. Insect frass is just insect shiiit basically. I’m going to continue to flush about half the pot size and introduce nutrients at half strength and hopefully this will do the trick. Thanks once again for the valaubale info!
 
OldManRiver

OldManRiver

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263
Old mannnn River with the knowledge bro. Thanks mann. Appreciate your time and effort. Using emerald harvest for vegging. I’ll def get that soil ph reader. Fairly cheap and within my budget. Insect frass is just insect shiiit basically. I’m going to continue to flush about half the pot size and introduce nutrients at half strength and hopefully this will do the trick. Thanks once again for the valaubale info!
Emerald Harvest appears to be a hydro oriented nute line. You -are in soil, right? I'd use one intended for soil going forward. Again, I like Botanicare. I would not feed anything until you figure out the pH. If you have lockout going on, adding nutes won't help, and will increase toxicity.
 
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Buttercup726

Buttercup726

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28
Emerald Harvest appears to be a hydro oriented nute line. You -are in soil, right? I'd use one intended for soil going forward. Again, I like Botanicare. I would not feed anything until you figure out the pH. If you have lockout going on, adding nutes won't help, and will increase toxicity.

Soil-less medium. Pro mix hp. Thinking about going cocoa next time around.
 
OldManRiver

OldManRiver

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263
Soil-less medium. Pro mix hp. Thinking about going cocoa next time around.
Promix can be treated as if it was soil for our purposes on pH. Promix has a lot of peat in it, I believe, which is acidic. A micro-nutrient mix will be helpful. Any major brand. But getting the pH figured out is most likely the core issue.
 
P

Pass2TheLeft

323
63
So some background. Had 10 ladies vegging under blue lights for a month. Moved them to the flower room under hps lights. Still vegging

Temp -70 degrees during the day. In the low 60s during night time

Humidity- above 50 percent

Heat stress - feels good right above the canopy

Got a 100x microscope - no russet/broad mites

Been feeding nutrients two times then a tea w caps bennies along w molasses and insect frass.

5 gg#4 showing very little taco effect
5 gelato showing taco effect everywhere

The last pic is the gg#4. The previous pics are the gelato

Here are some pics

Any thoughts?
To me it looks like over watering if its not heat stress
 
P

Pass2TheLeft

323
63
Run off ph (using my standard Hanna hand held ph reader) came out to be 5.3!!!

So it’s full point plus of a difference of what’s going in to what’s going out.
Checking the run off ph is not are accurate way of measuring pH the only accurate way is to measure ph at the rootball
 

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