Mike Hawk
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Not sure if I'm understanding correctly. Are you saying that if I ph after the bennies have been added, that I would be fine?Not if you're adding them to the water column first.
I've been doing it for years. 1-2 cups per 10 gallons. Start your ph low at 5.5 and let it drift up through out the week. I like to add it the day after I mix my nutes for the week. I also water in tea at 30-100% the day I add it to the res,Would it be ok to put some concentrated tea in a nutrient res that is changed out weekly, or would it go bad after a few days? If so, how much would be the optimal amount of tea to add? Also, would a typical off the shelf ph up/down harm the bennies in the res? I'd like to add bennies daily to my coco instead of once a week of it will work...
That's EXACTLY what I did yesterday. My nute mix had been bubbling overnight then I dumped a couple cups in 5 gallons of mix before watering in the concentrated tea. Got some earth juice citric acid to be safe on the goods with adjusting the ph. Man that stuff is super concentrated. Half tsp put me at 3.8 from 6.7. Then I adjusted it to 5.5 per Bryce's advice at heavy 16. He did mention also to let it ride up throughout the week to 6.6 max. He said the reason for the allowable fluctuation is because h16 is on an "organic acid scale". I'm no chemist so not quite sure what that means but it sounds like you have plenty of experience with this procedure.I've been doing it for years. 1-2 cups per 10 gallons. Start your ph low at 5.5 and let it drift up through out the week. I like to add it the day after I mix my nutes for the week. I also water in tea at 30-100% the day I add it to the res,
Properties
Pure talc mineral is characterized by softness, hydrophobic surface properties, and a slippery feeling. Some commercial talcs may be harder because of the presence of impurities and associated minerals such as dolomite, calcite, tremolite and quartz.
The characteristic slippery property is a result of the crystal structure of pure talc mineral. It consists of a brucite sheet (Mg12O12H4) sandwiched between two silica sheets, to form talc layers that are superimposed indefinitely. Each layer is electrically neutral. Adjacent layers are held together only by weak van der Waals forces.
Talc is inert in most chemical reagents, although it exhibits a marked alkalinity (typically pH 9.0 – 9.5). It is however soluble in hot concentrated phosphoric acid.
After adding a couple cups of tea to my aerated res, my ph rose to 9 every day and built up a nasty sludge in the res and on the stones. I think I'll stick to root drenches.
Citric acid will create bacterial bloom you are better of using a synthetic pH down.
You may also use a 1 gallon pitcher, mix the bennies and just water, then let settle, then pour off the water with microbes in to the tea bucket leavign the talc behind. Then brew tea.
1-2 cups per 5 gallons has never affected my reservoirs the way you mention so I am almost positive it is the citric acid. The talc shoudl not be significant enough to raise the pH to 9.
Orca is unnecessary in a res. It is mainly mycorrhizae and they will not do any good sitting in liquid. they need to be by plant root exudates in order to get working.
If adding pH down mix some first with a gallon of water then slowly add. Better then dumping pH up/down concentrated in to the res. Not a huge deal but my thought was always that you will inevitably wipe out some good guys as the stream of concentrated pHup/down hits them as you pour it in, even if it is just 30mL
Something is very wrong with your RO filter if the pH coming out is 9, nothing the tea can do to help or hurt.My ph starts at close to 9 from the ro tap so I'm not sure if it's a factor of my ph shooting back up.
That's what my city tap water is at, and doesn't change the ph going through hydro logic stealth system (not aware that it's supposed to). It lowers my ppm from almost 400 to 20 that's about it.Something is very wrong with your RO filter if the pH coming out is 9, nothing the tea can do to help or hurt.
This is the little system that I'm running. I believe a lot of people run this and it does a great job I thought. I even use it for drinking water and tastes great. But again I wasn't aware that it was supposed to lower ph. I does a few points but nothing drasticYes, if you're passing the water through a reverse osmosis system then the pH should be shifting downward and quite a bit. Is it truly RO, using membranes and not simply mechanical and chemical (activated carbon) filtration? I'm not familiar with that brand of filter. RO should be removing the vast majority of minerals that cause alkalinity (resistance to pH shift).
http://espwaterproducts.com/about-reverse-osmosis.htm
My ph starts at close to 9 from the ro tap so I'm not sure if it's a factor of my ph shooting back up. It happens with or without tea added but I have never seen sludge like that.
So orca is pointless as a product? It's liquid mycorrhizae meant for hydro reservoirs. Not doubting this, just wondering if I should scrap it. I keep it in the res for daily waterings along with rapid start in between weekly ogbiowar drenches. I haven't had roots poking out the sides of my smart pots like this before.
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