Tea Recipe

Capulator · Aug 9, 2012

Brewing the tea a day before you use it with molasses and worm castings is the way to go.
The foliar pack can be combined with the root pack with no loss of population of either pack.
Best to use weekly tea, and use it fresh.
Microbes on the leaf surface will stay alive for up to a week.
Works with synthetic or organic programs.
If using synthetics, use 20ml/gal in your tea of molasses to give them a food source. You may want to apply the molasses as a top dress mid week as well.
If the spores are active they can infect host faster. If we are keeping a constant supply of diverse microbes by being consistent with the applications, the product will be effective.
With foliar spraying, it is best to apply in the evening when RH is at a maximum. Above 60 is best.

I think we may be overthinking it a little. I am told the tea is more effective by the man who cultures the microbes for me. He has no reason to misinform me. My humble opinion is that a 24 hour brew will only be bacteria dominant if there were more bacteria spores to begin with. Since the foliar pack is fungi dominant as it is, I don't see it going bacteria dominant in 24 hours, or ever for that matter, even with the root pack added. The microbes in the packs are meant to coexist. They are all compatible. Given a food source and O2 there is no reason why they can't all get along and grow together.

If you are still worried about it, make foliar tea separately.

cctt said:
I've been wondering the same. I have not wanted to post about it, as this is unsubstantiated, but I've been getting the feeling that using the foliar pack directly may be more effective than using it in a tea that becomes bacterially-dominant.
If the purpose of the tea is to awaken the spores before application, what is the advantage of this rather than letting them lie dormant in the grow medium until the conditions there suit them? Won't spores be effective longer if they're not forced to activate prematurely, then most likely die?
If anyone has quantitative information here, I'd be very interested.

Capulator · Aug 10, 2012

Fungi spores can take up to 4 days to germinate. The spores themselves, when in contact with a food source OR host WILL germinate. If they are on a host when they germinate, they will infect the host. Other insects that come in contact with the host will also contract the infection. If there is no more food, they can go back in to hybernation. Certain fungi and bacteria in both packs secrete secondary metabolites, which also play a role in the destruction of insects. For example, BT secrets delta endotoxins.

"BT Mode of Action

When conditions for bacterial growth are not optimal B.t., like many bacteria, forms spores. Spores are the dormant stage of the bacterial life cycle, when the organism waits for better growing conditions. Unlike many other bacteria, when B.t. creates spores it also creates a protein crystal. This crystal is the toxic component of B.t..
After the insect ingests B.t., the crystal is dissolved in the insect's alkaline gut. Then the insect's digestive enzymes break clown the crystal structure and activate B.t.'s insecticidal component, called the delta-endotoxin. The delta-endotoxin binds to the cells lining the midgut membrane and creates pores in the membrane, upsetting the gut's ion balance. The insect soon stops feeding and starves to death.
If the insect is not susceptible to the direct action of the delta-endotoxin, death occurs after B.t. starts vegetative growth inside the insect's gut. The spore germinates after the gut membrane is broken; it then reproduces and makes more spores. This body-wide infection eventually kills the insect."

KennyPowers · Aug 10, 2012

for anyone interested in more of the science behind these teas and the soil food web, i recommend a book that my homie dirk turned me onto,

The Compost Tea Brewing Manual by Elaine Ingham. just search in google, one of the top results is a PDF copy.

it will give you a good base level idea of what is going on, but not in overly scientific jargon.

MakinGoo · Aug 11, 2012

I made my 1st batch of tea 2day but I didn't get any foam I think I used 2 much liquid Kelp from A1 or my tiny air pump wasn't powerful enough.. Here was my mix:

2 gal water
2TBS Root pack
2TBS Foliar pack
50ml EJ hi brix molasses
50ml Liquid Kelp
1 cup insect frass

I bubbled it 24 hrs the used almost a gal tea mixed with 4 gal RO water & fead the plants.. I sprayed the leafs with full straignth tea.. I hope I did it rite.. Next ill only use 25ml liquid kelp 2 see if I get some foam action..

Capulator · Aug 11, 2012

i would leave out the kelp but that's just me. just stirring it a couple times a day will be ok too.

MakinGoo said:
I made my 1st batch of tea 2day but I didn't get any foam I think I used 2 much liquid Kelp from A1 or my tiny air pump wasn't powerful enough.. Here was my mix:

2 gal water
2TBS Root pack
2TBS Foliar pack
50ml EJ hi brix molasses
50ml Liquid Kelp
1 cup insect frass

I bubbled it 24 hrs the used almost a gal tea mixed with 4 gal RO water & fead the plants.. I sprayed the leafs with full straignth tea.. I hope I did it rite.. Next ill only use 25ml liquid kelp 2 see if I get some foam action..

MakinGoo · Aug 11, 2012

Capulator said:
i would leave out the kelp but that's just me. just stirring it a couple times a day will be ok too.

Kool next batch ill leave out the kelp & see how they like that.. Thanks Cap

KennyPowers · Aug 11, 2012

Foam. The presence of foam on the surface of tea is considered a positive sign, but just means there are free proteins, amino acids or carbohydrates present. This can occur as the result of adding fish hydrolysate, certain organic acids or carbohydrates. If worm compost was used, excessive foam suggests a few earthworms were in the compost and their dead bodies are providing this source of protein/carbohydrate. Excess protein or amino acids should not occur if bacteria are growing well, although dead worms may continue to release proteinaceous materials throughout the brewing cycle. Foam can be suppressed by using organic surfactants, such as yucca or vegetable oil (not olive or canola oil!). Don’t use commercial defoamers
– every single one we have tested kills the organisms in the tea.

not sure about your kelp goo, but when i add liquid karma it contains yucca which suppresses foam.

oldirtybastard · Aug 11, 2012

MakinGoo said:
I made my 1st batch of tea 2day but I didn't get any foam I think I used 2 much liquid Kelp from A1 or my tiny air pump wasn't powerful enough.. Here was my mix:

2 gal water
2TBS Root pack
2TBS Foliar pack
50ml EJ hi brix molasses
50ml Liquid Kelp
1 cup insect frass

I bubbled it 24 hrs the used almost a gal tea mixed with 4 gal RO water & fead the plants.. I sprayed the leafs with full straignth tea.. I hope I did it rite.. Next ill only use 25ml liquid kelp 2 see if I get some foam action..

I would cut the kelp in half... Around 15-25 ml a gallon should be sufficient... Less is always more when it comes to ACT's IMO...... ~ODB~

click80 · Aug 11, 2012

Well my first grow using Caps bennies in soilless is almost done, started flushing today even though it's kind of unnecessary..I am very happy. I only had to fertilize three times with Age Old Bloom. I am adding more humic into my soil mix next time. Here are some pics. These are Deathstar. It looks like I will be getting a half p per plant average. I have never had flower set like this. No popcorn, even at the bottom. I am actually really proud of these. I am sure Caps bennies helped. I sold some clones to a friend and hers are okay but not like this. Not even close. She is getting about 3 zips per plant. ;o)

MakinGoo · Aug 11, 2012

click80 said:
Well my first grow using Caps bennies in soilless is almost done, started flushing today even though it's kind of unnecessary..I am very happy. I only had to fertilize three times with Age Old Bloom. I am adding more humic into my soil mix next time. Here are some pics. These are Deathstar. It looks like I will be getting a half p per plant average. I have never had flower set like this. No popcorn, even at the bottom. I am actually really proud of these. I am sure Caps bennies helped. I sold some clones to a friend and hers are okay but not like this. Not even close. She is getting about 3 zips per plant. ;o)View attachment 241387 View attachment 241388 View attachment 241389

Nice monster buds

MakinGoo · Aug 11, 2012

MakinGoo said:
I made my 1st batch of tea 2day but I didn't get any foam I think I used 2 much liquid Kelp from A1 or my tiny air pump wasn't powerful enough.. Here was my mix:

2 gal water
2TBS Root pack
2TBS Foliar pack
50ml EJ hi brix molasses
50ml Liquid Kelp
1 cup insect frass

I bubbled it 24 hrs the used almost a gal tea mixed with 4 gal RO water & fead the plants.. I sprayed the leafs with full straignth tea.. I hope I did it rite.. Next ill only use 25ml liquid kelp 2 see if I get some foam action..

I 4got 2 add I used 2 Lil scoops earth worm castings.. The pure tea ppm was 800 & ph was 5.3 I added plain water till the ppm were only 130 but ph was still very low..

click80 · Aug 11, 2012

MakinGoo said:
Nice monster buds

thanks. they are pretty spectacular. Smell is unbelievably stronger than when in Hydro.

Capulator · Aug 11, 2012

MakinGoo said:
I 4got 2 add I used 2 Lil scoops earth worm castings.. The pure tea ppm was 800 & ph was 5.3 I added plain water till the ppm were only 130 but ph was still very low..

MG if you used RO water then the EJ highbrix will drop pH significantly. next time you can pH to neutral (7.0) before adding the spores. usually mine float between 6 and 7. Dont stress it brother.

Capulator · Aug 11, 2012

click80 said:
thanks. they are pretty spectacular. Smell is unbelievably stronger than when in Hydro.

what is the soil-less mix composed of? 1/2 p per plant is great.

click80 · Aug 11, 2012

Thanks Cap....

Well I am guessing but I know for certain I will get a qp per plant and I am pretty sure it's going to bump 1/2 p on four of them...I made a mix of Roots Organic, Happy Frog and Happy Frog Soil Conditioner at a 4-4-1 ratio. When I transplanted to the 5 gallon smart pots I used that mix plus about 3 tablespoons Oyster Shell (I pounded it into a powder first), about 2 cups of this stuff called Budswell which is a bat, bird, and Worm poop mix and it's 0-7-0, and about 3 tablespoons of Humic Powder from a company called Black Earth. They are a company out of Canada that gets their humic from what was formed with freshwater. You can google them. It's got a really good fulvic content. I also used Spray N Gro and Bills Special Fertilizer as a Foliar once a week until about the 4 week after flipping.

That chick used the same mix as I did, she copied me, except she doesn't use bennies, and is not getting anywhere near what I did. I hope people don't think I am a shill but dude I think it's cause I used your bennies and the Alaskan Humisoil whenever I made my teas. I think my way of precharging your bennies make them freaking explode and I just kept them fed with lots of Humic, Kelp, and Alfalfa Tea and Molasses and that kept the plants fed. I am surprised, I didn't think I would have this kind of yield my first go in soil especially with only really fertilizing but two or three times with Age Old. I used Molasses all the way through also to keep the bennies fed. I will see on the next batch if I can replicate. Doing P. Express.

The Pineapple Express mom I flowered I got 11 1\4 ounces. I think there is a picture back in the thread a ways.

Capulator · Aug 12, 2012

click80 said:
Thanks Cap....

Well I am guessing but I know for certain I will get a qp per plant and I am pretty sure it's going to bump 1/2 p on four of them...I made a mix of Roots Organic, Happy Frog and Happy Frog Soil Conditioner at a 4-4-1 ratio. When I transplanted to the 5 gallon smart pots I used that mix plus about 3 tablespoons Oyster Shell (I pounded it into a powder first), about 2 cups of this stuff called Budswell which is a bat, bird, and Worm poop mix and it's 0-7-0, and about 3 tablespoons of Humic Powder from a company called Black Earth. They are a company out of Canada that gets their humic from what was formed with freshwater. You can google them. It's got a really good fulvic content. I also used Spray N Gro and Bills Special Fertilizer as a Foliar once a week until about the 4 week after flipping.

That chick used the same mix as I did, she copied me, except she doesn't use bennies, and is not getting anywhere near what I did. I hope people don't think I am a shill but dude I think it's cause I used your bennies and the Alaskan Humisoil whenever I made my teas. I think my way of precharging your bennies make them freaking explode and I just kept them fed with lots of Humic, Kelp, and Alfalfa Tea and Molasses and that kept the plants fed. I am surprised, I didn't think I would have this kind of yield my first go in soil especially with only really fertilizing but two or three times with Age Old. I used Molasses all the way through also to keep the bennies fed. I will see on the next batch if I can replicate. Doing P. Express.

The Pineapple Express mom I flowered I got 11 1\4 ounces. I think there is a picture back in the thread a ways.

how long did you veg?

click80 · Aug 12, 2012

3weeks...Under 8 tube T5's, which I like a whole lot better than MH for vegging....Oh, I did use snowstorm also, I alternated that with Alfalfa Tea. I stopped the Alfalfa tea about week 5 because they started to foxtail a little, but kept up with the Snowstorm at the 2 tsp per gallon rate. Reduced that to 1tsp/gallon until I started flushing. Flushing with RO and Molasses and bennies only. No compost tea. The foxtailing filled in for the most part.

They just now hit it where it's about 50/50 clear cloudy trichs. I am at day 60.

Capulator · Aug 12, 2012

3 weeks veg in soil and a yield like that? You should be proud dude. Great job!:eek:

click80 · Aug 12, 2012

thank you man...I will know for certain on yeild by end of week. Harvesting my other project right now and putting more cakes in totes. That shit is turning into a fulltime job....that is really fun. I would post pics but I don't know if thats cool on here.

I also put Rock Phosphate. (reading my journal), I topdressed with a soil and EWC about at week 5 if that means anything. I used a lot of EWC.

Yeah I checked my journal, I was going to do these in hydro and just decided not to. That was on 5/12. I put them in 6" square pots first and they took about a week to really start vegging, about two weeks later I went up to three gallon ebb and flo buckets, I vegged them until 6/11, potted up to 5 gallons smart pot and flipped on 6/12.

You know I am going to keep doing the "potting up" thing. I was reading on an orchid board that this gives them a boost everytime you pot up and I agree. Helps keep the momentum (energy) high. It's definitely not as much of a bitch as changing reservoirs and I like getting my hands dirty. Part of the never grow up attitude I got I suppose.

Anyway thanks a lot. Gotta order soon I hope you have the big size on the Root Pack in.

click80 · Aug 15, 2012

Well I just finished weighing the smallest one out and put into jars. I got 10 zips. :O)

Cannot believe it.

One thing I don't like though is I used the Alfalfa Tea too long. Should have listened to my inner voice. The buds are super fuel smelling this time, compared to hydro, but they are also a little airy. But thats on me from using the Alfalfa Tea too long. From here on out I will D/C the A. Tea as soon as stretch is over. This happened before in hydro but from Super Thrive.

Needless to say I am very happy with my first dirt run.

I do want to say thanks to the people on Caps threads for all the good tips and info. Helped me out a lot.

Tea Recipe

Tea Recipe

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Tea Recipe

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