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The Charts--Helpful charts for making nutrient deficiency diagnoses

  • Thread starter Thread starter Seamaiden
  • Start date Start date Dec 31, 2013
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The Charts--Helpful charts for making nutrient deficiency diagnoses

Seamaiden Dec 31, 2013 298 Replies 159,121 Views
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Seamaiden

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#41
My pleasure. Use them (all!) well. :D
 
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lino

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#42
Seamaiden said:
Don't forget that you can mist isopropyl inside that tent and if you do it every three days for two weeks, you should have them eradicated, with zero residue (especially if you use distilled water to cut the iso).
Click to expand...
Maiden, let me get this straight ,,,, put Iso on plants also or just to disinfect the room?... If so never heard that one... what delusion rate do you use?
 
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Seamaiden

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#43
ON the plants--yup. I've done it at a 1:1 ratio, and pure iso when I got lazy. The pure iso doesn't stay on very long, adding water helps that.

What delusion rate? LMAO!
 
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lino

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#44
When using pictorial charts I always include this PH chart to help confirm diagnoses . Also some deficiencies diagnoses you'll find foliage feed direct to sick leaves can narrow your analysis as well.

This chart will tell you if your nutrient deficiency is PH related...



A Wide band show strong availability in that PH range.

Thanks for that pictorial chart, that rocks!
 
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lino

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#45
delusion definded by Lino - The illusion of alcohol killing my plants after seaMaid pass incorrect info , its in Lino's dictionary of wisdom. lol
 
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Seamaiden

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#46
? What info is incorrect that I passed? I'm happy to correct it. But if you're referring to the iso, it's what *I* do, as asked and described. It does pay to make sure you don't saturate the soil with the iso, though. ;)
 
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lino

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#47
Seamaiden said:
? What info is incorrect that I passed? I'm happy to correct it. But if you're referring to the iso, it's what *I* do, as asked and described.
Click to expand...
Thats the delusion, you passed AWESOME, accurate info,,,, I had Lino delusional moment of myself not inquiring before I spray plants with Iso! lol

The more I read of you, the more I realize your more than just a grn thumb,,, ya got some knowledge also,,, thanks for sharing it with me.
 
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Seamaiden

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#48
Oh! Ok, I thought maybe I'd gotten something wrong that needed fixing. :D
 
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milkcrate

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#49
Hello Seamaiden, thanx for the charts and info ya share. i had a question on the PH chart, what is the sweet spot ya want the ph so the plant gets the nutes ya give it? in hydro i always try to keep between 5.8 and 6.1...is that a good range?


crate
 
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Seamaiden

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#50
I've only ever done perlite hempy tubs and coir, in relation to the hydro question. For coir I like that range, going a wee bit higher to 6.2, but I do allow ranging outside those parameters. For the perlite tubs the plants did better using a lower range, 5.2-5.8, but then the root aphids took hold as they got into flowering so I can't say how I might have finished, those plants barely finished.

For soil, I'm organic and so don't pH generally.
 
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Chronic Monster

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#51
lino said:
When using pictorial charts I always include this PH chart to help confirm diagnoses . Also some deficiencies diagnoses you'll find foliage feed direct to sick leaves can narrow your analysis as well.

This chart will tell you if your nutrient deficiency is PH related...

View attachment 373048

A Wide band show strong availability in that PH range.

Thanks for that pictorial chart, that rocks!
Click to expand...
I have a question, why are some charts different?
i.e. below....
I am guessing one is for hydro and the other for soil?
why are nutrients better uptook in soil at a higher ph?


What do you all think is optimal coco veg and bloom ph?
 

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seaslug

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#52
I'm just coming to the midpoint of flowering but 5.8 to 6.0 has been working well for me in coco.
 
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Smoking Gun

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#53
Chronic Monster said:
I have a question, why are some charts different?
i.e. below....
I am guessing one is for hydro and the other for soil?
why are nutrients better uptook in soil at a higher ph?
View attachment 376018 View attachment 376022
Click to expand...

The discrepancies you are seeing are probably for a few reasons. As you have suggested hydro and soil will have different pH ranges for nutrient uptake. Another reason there are differences could be due to changing information. For many years there was only one chart floating around, and that was based on soil pH ranges. More recently hydro charts have become available, which would reflect a different pH range.
 
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caregiverken

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#54
lino said:
Thats the delusion, you passed AWESOME, accurate info,,,, I had Lino delusional moment of myself not inquiring before I spray plants with Iso! lol

The more I read of you, the more I realize your more than just a grn thumb,,, ya got some knowledge also,,, thanks for sharing it with me.
Click to expand...
50% Iso...50% water...right?...I use that myself...works great
 
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caregiverken

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#55
Is this normal leaf coloring? (just starting to bloom)
I worry about how pale the new growth is :nailbiting:Hope I didn't get locked out

thats wifi ^ Maybe needs calmag?
cookies is doing that too
 

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Seamaiden

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#56
I think it's normal, Ken. I see that when there's really explosive growth going on and judging by those pix, you're about at the end of the post-flip stretch there. You could give 'em a shot of more N here. They look extremely good to me.
 
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caregiverken

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#57
Thanks Sea.
the cal mag has some N in it...so I will give em some of that next watering
 
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Seamaiden

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#58
I say piss in 'em. :p
 
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milkcrate

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#59
i hope all is well....

i am going to change my PH to 6.5 and see if that helps, i always hovered around 5.9 to 6..2, and like wise, 5.8 to 6.1...i'll try it for awhile to see if anything changes, i also increased my cal/mag just a bit...at this point for a couple plants, i got no choice but to give it a shot...

i see a few leaves now turnin light and yellow on my bud plant so i'll do a water change later and increase the PH level to see if that helps any...

what do you think a good PH level would be in bloom...anyone? i know Maiden you said you dont use a hydro system..so throwin the question out there...thanx


crate
 
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Seamaiden

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#60
If you're in hydro I'd be going the other way, a bit lower and keeping it into the 5s. That's how I did the perlite, and like I said, it was working well until the root aphids got going.

Also, see if you can separate the Ca and the Mg, or add in more Ca so that your Ca:Mg ratio is at least 4:1, with 6:1 being much more optimum.
 
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Replies 298
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Started Dec 31, 2013
Latest post Nov 17, 2025
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