The Organic Styling of Strange James

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Weird Jimmy

Weird Jimmy

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What's up everyone? I've been a member on this forum for years, but haven't really posted much of anything. Thought I'd finally fire something up over here, so here it is... I recently got a couple packs of some Archive gear (Casper OG and Valley Girl), and I can't think of a better way to start a grow diary...

The Valley Girls are up first (which is a verified pure original OG cut crossed to a faceoff bx1 male). They're starting in paper towels, and will be planted in .3 gallon air pots once they pop.

The organic styling of strange james


The organic styling of strange james 2
 
Weird Jimmy

Weird Jimmy

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All six popped within 24 hours (gotta love fresh seed stock). I planted them in the .3 gallon air pots, in my "bar head" soil mix, and watered them with a compost tea.

This bunch of Valley Girls are labeled as Melody, Penelope, Becky, Whitney, Tiffany, and Bethany...

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Weird Jimmy

Weird Jimmy

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Here's a picture of my current brewer. It's a 15 gallon(ish), single riser, vortex style brewer. I've made a shit load of brewers over the years, and this one is BY FAR my favorite. The single riser air lift is really powerful and works so efficiently, plus it's super easy to clean.
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* Weird Jimmy Tip - if the protein foam from your brew is building up too high for your brewer to contain, a few drops of fish hydrosolate will make it go away almost instantly. The natural oil from the fish will break the surface tension of the water, no longer allowing the foam to accumulate (other natural oils work too). These two pictures were taken within a minute of each other after adding about 1 milliliter of fish hydrosolate.
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Weird Jimmy

Weird Jimmy

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In case anyone's interested, the bar head mix goes a little something like this... first!, start with a base. I used to make my own base mix with approx 60% coco 30% humus/castings/compost 10% perlite, but I now use the Organic Mechanic container mix instead. It's an awesome product, made from compost, coco, pine bark, and rice hulls. For me, the key to a good base is to avoid peat moss. Not only does it have an incredibly low pH (typically in the low 4's), but it's also anti-microbial in nature (the exact opposite of what you want to achieve with your mix)... not to mention mining peat bogs is bad for the environment.

Second! mixing in the amendments. I don't use any soil amendments that are sourced from livestock (no bone meal, blood meal, manures) to avoid certain pathogens and other "undesirables". I also try to avoid inputs that have been heavily treated with pesticides (most notably cottonseed meal), and inputs that are unsustainable. Otherwise, for me, the more variety the better.... I typically use 4.5 cups of "mix" per 1 cu' of base mix, but the ingredients, and the proportions of the ingredients, can be flexible. Here's my exact recipe though....

1/2 cup high nitrogen bat guano
1/4 cup alfalfa meal
1/4 cup fish meal
1/4 cup bone char
1/4 cup fish bone meal
1/2 cup feather meal
3/4 cup kelp meal
1/2 cup insect frass
1/4 cup crab shell meal
1/4 cup azomite
1/4 cup greensand
1/4 cup oyster shell flour
1/4 cup gypsum

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Weird Jimmy

Weird Jimmy

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Best of luck with them Archive Beans. I got some F-Cut x Face/Off Bx1 growing right now. It's almost time to flip them. Keep us posted on this show!


dope, the F-cut was on my "want" list too.
 
Weird Jimmy

Weird Jimmy

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These plants are Quinn 'n' Tonic bx2's (original cross was the Harlequin cut x Cannatonic male). I've been looking for something high in CBD to help treat my wife's epilepsy, and a homie from Colorado hooked me up with these beans. Don't know if they're male or female, but since I recently got access to the Harlequin cut, if I find a male, I'll certainly be making bx3's for the community.
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Weird Jimmy

Weird Jimmy

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When my veg lights turn off in a couple hours, I'm going to foliar spray, and since I have all this shit out, I figured I might as well take a pic and explain... Over this past year, I came across some information about a guy doing an entire hydro grow using diluted ocean water as his nutrient. The more I learned about the science behind it (for instance, ocean water and chlorophyll have the exact same chemical make-up) , the more I became convinced that I needed to incorporate a sea mineral or ocean water solution into my grow style (I don't have the time to completely go into all the benefits of providing sea minerals to your plants, but if you're curious, google 'Sea Energy Agriculture', or Dr. Maynard Murray, or 'ocean water fertilization'). I found a couple products, and have been using one or the other, ever since. One of the products is simply called 'Sea Mineral',is made by "yellow bottles", and is basically just concentrated ocean water with some of the sodium removed. The other product I use is called 'Earth Tonic', is made by Progress Earth, and is made from Himalayan crystal salt (which are salt deposits left behind by ancient oceans). So THAT, goes in the spray, and will obviously provide an insane amount of minerals and trace elements... Then I add some sort of liquid kelp product. I'm not too brand loyal, but there are a few brands that combine a couple different types of kelp into one product. Earth Kelp is a good example, as they use nodosum and eklonia together. The kelp will provide some of the same trace elements as the sea minerals (as it does grow in the ocean), but will also provide natural growth hormones... Then I add some fulvic acid, but this time, I am VERY brand specific. Bio-Ag's Ful-Power is what I use, and it's the only fulvic I'll use. The Bio-Ag product is unique because it's cold microbial processed, instead of chemically processed like mostly all other fulvic acids are. This means there's nothing to drive down your pH and nothing to increase the ppm (if that matters to your system)..... Lastly, I throw in some yucca extract to act as a natural wetting agent, and there you have it. A foliar spray of nothing but pure plant love.
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RIVAL79

RIVAL79

Funk Master!
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Thanx for sharing ur Tea ingredients, WJ. I really like the looks of that Star Killer. I missed out on those and have been waiting for RD to drop more of those beans. Plants def look healthy, bro.
 
clockworx

clockworx

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Nice setup, that base looks like a nice texture.. what size pots do you flower flower in ? And is it a bitch to transplant from those air pots ? Also whats your room setup (light, hoods) ...
 
Weird Jimmy

Weird Jimmy

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Nice setup, what size pots do you flower flower in ? And is it a bitch to transplant from those air pots ? Also whats your room setup (light, hoods) ...


I flower in ten gallon air pots. I recently started doing no-till pots, so I don't really transplant anymore, but no, it's super easy to transplant from those pots. They have little key screws that hold them together, and when you want them apart, it's as easy as unscrewing them.

My room used to have 1000w Gavitas, but now I rock the new new shit with the DNA 860's. If you don't know about these lights, you should... I only have two in this flower room, but will soon have four. The bulbs are BUD bulbs (Base Up Base Down), and they have to run vertically, so I bought some 4 foot parabolic's for them... And I repeat, if you don't know about these lights, please learn about them. They have, BY FAR, the fullest spectrum of any artificial light. They're really the closest thing to sun you can get right now. Every customer I've had buy these lights, fucking raves about them weeks later.

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clockworx

clockworx

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Yea I don't do the whole expensive bulb thing anymore,,, why whats the par output on those bad boys ?
 
clockworx

clockworx

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I found it...those are bad ass bro....1880 from the side and 1600 from below at 12inches......that's some serious shit .....ill will read more about these and switch.....the only reason I don't do expensive bulbs is because most hps bulbs are the same shit as far as par goes, some company's just charge an arm and a leg more then others and im not beat.....but those 860's are some game changers.....thanks
 
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