Think im gonna lose em :(

1,345
263
These pots are a little smaller than solo cups. I thought they would be fine but, first grow. Live an learn ill have 2 get some solos
Thing is it will go like 5-6 days before it gets dry
Yes or even longer, I've have small plants like that in 5 inch square containers that don't get watered for 2 weeks after a heavy watering., that's why I suggest you get a sample dry pot and keep it nearby and then when you think a plant is dry pick them both up and compare the weight of the dry sample to the plant you're considering watering and that's the best way to teach yourself when a plant needs watering in my opinion good luck
 
9,025
313
same as your body,you cant force feed,like mentioned above you have to know what your medium is,you dont,so you cant fix what you dont know what base is,is it coco?5.8 to 6.2 ph going in on feeds ,is it soil?6.2 to 6.8 ph,so you get me?same as jw said to small for the transplant,i start mine in a solo cup half full,when i have roots coming out the drain hole,i transplant ,kinda thing,your gonna have to know what your base is before you can figure what ph to use
 
Yes or even longer, I've have small plants like that in 5 inch square containers that don't get watered for 2 weeks after a heavy watering., that's why I suggest you get a sample dry pot and keep it nearby and then when you think a plant is dry pick them both up and compare the weight of the dry sample to the plant you're considering watering and that's the best way to teach yourself when a plant needs watering in my opinion good luck
Ok man. Ill do that thanks alot
 
Yes or even longer, I've have small plants like that in 5 inch square containers that don't get watered for 2 weeks after a heavy watering., that's why I suggest you get a sample dry pot and keep it nearby and then when you think a plant is dry pick them both up and compare the weight of the dry sample to the plant you're considering watering and that's the best way to teach yourself when a plant needs watering in my opinion good luck
Hopefully they are still salvageable. Looked like crap this morning
 
908
93
To the question of GH nutrients in soil: they will work fine. Nutes made for hydro just add some micronutrients and some pH buffering. There is nothing there that won't work in soil. As with any fertilizer, sparingly is best.
Synthetic nutrients take a toll on the soil microbes. If someone wants to use GH Flora 3-part, why not use Pro-Mix HP with 25% more perilite added? (I.e., soilless?). What the point of using soil only to use a soilless nutrient?

I've seen a lot of problems from people using soil nutrients in soillless, or vice versa. I would match the fertilizer product to the medium, and maximize their effectiveness together. It's not hard to use a soil fertilizer, and supplement with fish emulsion (or blood meal, or bat guano) to boost N. Or, boost P with a bone meal tea (or guano). I mean, it's not harder than mixing 3 bottles of stuff. The upside is that the rootzone will be healthier. The microbes will have something to eat.

We can quibble about whether it works, can be made to work, etc. But, why invite sub-optimal conditions that way? Soil is bilogically active. Why not capitalize upon that? If there's no desire to capitalize on it, why not eliminate the biologic component and keep it simple with a soilless medium (just you, god, nutrients and the plant. No heavy soil interfering with delivering nutrients?). This is one of many things that can complicate a grow. I wouldn't underestimate how those things can pile up for a new grower.
 
Synthetic nutrients take a toll on the soil microbes. If someone wants to use GH Flora 3-part, why not use Pro-Mix HP with 25% more perilite added? (I.e., soilless?). What the point of using soil only to use a soilless nutrient?

I've seen a lot of problems from people using soil nutrients in soillless, or vice versa. I would match the fertilizer product to the medium, and maximize their effectiveness together. It's not hard to use a soil fertilizer, and supplement with fish emulsion (or blood meal, or bat guano) to boost N. Or, boost P with a bone meal tea (or guano). I mean, it's not harder than mixing 3 bottles of stuff. The upside is that the rootzone will be healthier. The microbes will have something to eat.

We can quibble about whether it works, can be made to work, etc. But, why invite sub-optimal conditions that way? Soil is bilogically active. Why not capitalize upon that? If there's no desire to capitalize on it, why not eliminate the biologic component and keep it simple with a soilless medium (just you, god, nutrients and the plant. No heavy soil interfering with delivering nutrients?). This is one of many things that can complicate a grow. I wouldn't underestimate how those things can pile up for a new grower.
Right, im gonna use the gen organics man. Do you think that would be alright? And actually, checked the plants after work 2day and they are actually better looking than this morning. The best of the bunch even grew a good bit. Ive been letting them air out and thr soil dry past couple days. I need to be more careful with the waterings. But ill take your advice to stick towards my soil intended nutrients. Hopefully they keep looking up
 
908
93
Right, im gonna use the gen organics man. Do you think that would be alright?
Personally, I don't like any of the typical hydro-store "lineups." I think it's better to focus on NPK ratio, and strength.

My advice to new growers is to just use a 1-1-1 ratio all the way through. If I were you, I'd run down to Ace Hardware and buy a box of MiracleGro Tomato (18-18-21). The only thing better than a ratio of 1-1-1 is if the K is a little higher all the way through. That stuff is great (for $6). If you want to improve the N in veg, you can add some fish emulsion. That's good for the soil microbes. In flower you can boost the P using a bat guano. (But, I wouldn't mess with that stuff. The Tomato is a ratio 1-1-1.2. That's good.).

I've used it. 1/2 to 5/8 tsp/gal works fine. When I fed too heavy, I didn't get nutrient burn. I got N toxicity (the claw and dark green). So, I think it's safe that way.

I'm assuming you don't have the GO stuff. If you're going to buy something, I'd do the MG. If you already have the GO... maybe it makes sense to use it. If you have time to buy something online, I'd recommend Grow More Sea Grow All Purpose (instead of the MG). I think it's better for the soil, more organic-based ingredients. But, MG grows fine. If you have the GO already, it should be ok.

A lot of people like Jacks Classic (1-1-1 ratio). I havent' used it. I like Sea Grow because its ingredients are less synthetic (I think. I can't find a Jack's label). Jacks also has a Fruit product (2-1-2 ratio). Mixing Classic an Fruit together would produce a nice veg ratio (or, just using the Fruit by itself, although the K might be a tad high). They have a Bloom product (1-3-2 ratio). Mixing that with the Classic in bloom could be good. (If I used Jacks, I'd play around with all three that way. I do that kind of monkeying around with Sea Grow. But, I use unrelated things to adjust the NPK ratio. Things that are organic. Like guano, fish emulsion.). I'm probably doing "multi-bottle" type stuff considering everything I use. But, I'm more in control of it, with an eye to soil health and NPK ratios. Not just following a proprietary "schedule" (which might involve synthetics).

And actually, checked the plants after work 2day and they are actually better looking than this morning. The best of the bunch even grew a good bit. Ive been letting them air out and thr soil dry past couple days. I need to be more careful with the waterings. But ill take your advice to stick towards my soil intended nutrients. Hopefully they keep looking up
It could be your soil is drying and the ph is rising. I've noticed my soil swings a full ph point from wet to dry. I think that's part of the problem when people treat a cannabis plant as a houseplant and water it every day. It doesn't let the swing occur. The full range of nutrients isn't as widely available. When the soil dries slowly, it's tempting to keep it wet because you want to deliver more nutrients. But, if the soil is kept wet, then nutrients are less availabe. As you add more, they build up. Spiral into more acidity, etc. You see the effects and you want to feed more (causing more wetness, more buildup).

When the plants grow into the container better, maybe it will dry faster. If you use the MG "Tomato," I think there's less risk of burning than if you used the chelated GH 3-part synthetics. if you feel you can't get the nutrients to the plant as frequently as you like because the soil doesn't dry fast enough, I think the MG would be safer to feed heavier, so there's more nutrients in the soil as you wait to water again. (If you tried to feed GH Flora strongly so there's more present during the "waiting to dry" period, that might burn.). MG might burn. I can't guarantee it. But, I never saw it. I deliberately fed heavy trying to find where it would burn. All I got were blue-green leaves with the claw. :) That's not bad.
 
Personally, I don't like any of the typical hydro-store "lineups." I think it's better to focus on NPK ratio, and strength.

My advice to new growers is to just use a 1-1-1 ratio all the way through. If I were you, I'd run down to Ace Hardware and buy a box of MiracleGro Tomato (18-18-21). The only thing better than a ratio of 1-1-1 is if the K is a little higher all the way through. That stuff is great (for $6). If you want to improve the N in veg, you can add some fish emulsion. That's good for the soil microbes. In flower you can boost the P using a bat guano. (But, I wouldn't mess with that stuff. The Tomato is a ratio 1-1-1.2. That's good.).

I've used it. 1/2 to 5/8 tsp/gal works fine. When I fed too heavy, I didn't get nutrient burn. I got N toxicity (the claw and dark green). So, I think it's safe that way.

I'm assuming you don't have the GO stuff. If you're going to buy something, I'd do the MG. If you already have the GO... maybe it makes sense to use it. If you have time to buy something online, I'd recommend Grow More Sea Grow All Purpose (instead of the MG). I think it's better for the soil, more organic-based ingredients. But, MG grows fine. If you have the GO already, it should be ok.

A lot of people like Jacks Classic (1-1-1 ratio). I havent' used it. I like Sea Grow because its ingredients are less synthetic (I think. I can't find a Jack's label). Jacks also has a Fruit product (2-1-2 ratio). Mixing Classic an Fruit together would produce a nice veg ratio (or, just using the Fruit by itself, although the K might be a tad high). They have a Bloom product (1-3-2 ratio). Mixing that with the Classic in bloom could be good. (If I used Jacks, I'd play around with all three that way. I do that kind of monkeying around with Sea Grow. But, I use unrelated things to adjust the NPK ratio. Things that are organic. Like guano, fish emulsion.). I'm probably doing "multi-bottle" type stuff considering everything I use. But, I'm more in control of it, with an eye to soil health and NPK ratios. Not just following a proprietary "schedule" (which might involve synthetics).
Ok i do have the gh and go line up. But ill look for that mg tomato atuff you mentioned.


It could be your soil is drying and the ph is rising. I've noticed my soil swings a full ph point from wet to dry. I think that's part of the problem when people treat a cannabis plant as a houseplant and water it every day. It doesn't let the swing occur. The full range of nutrients isn't as widely available. When the soil dries slowly, it's tempting to keep it wet because you want to deliver more nutrients. But, if the soil is kept wet, then nutrients are less availabe. As you add more, they build up. Spiral into more acidity, etc. You see the effects and you want to feed more (causing more wetness, more buildup).

When the plants grow into the container better, maybe it will dry faster. If you use the MG "Tomato," I think there's less risk of burning than if you used the chelated GH 3-part synthetics. if you feel you can't get the nutrients to the plant as frequently as you like because the soil doesn't dry fast enough, I think the MG would be safer to feed heavier, so there's more nutrients in the soil as you wait to water again. (If you tried to feed GH Flora strongly so there's more present during the "waiting to dry" period, that might burn.). MG might burn. I can't guarantee it. But, I never saw it. I deliberately fed heavy trying to find where it would burn. All I got were blue-green leaves with the claw. :) That's not bad.
Personally, I don't like any of the typical hydro-store "lineups." I think it's better to focus on NPK ratio, and strength.

My advice to new growers is to just use a 1-1-1 ratio all the way through. If I were you, I'd run down to Ace Hardware and buy a box of MiracleGro Tomato (18-18-21). The only thing better than a ratio of 1-1-1 is if the K is a little higher all the way through. That stuff is great (for $6). If you want to improve the N in veg, you can add some fish emulsion. That's good for the soil microbes. In flower you can boost the P using a bat guano. (But, I wouldn't mess with that stuff. The Tomato is a ratio 1-1-1.2. That's good.).

I've used it. 1/2 to 5/8 tsp/gal works fine. When I fed too heavy, I didn't get nutrient burn. I got N toxicity (the claw and dark green). So, I think it's safe that way.

I'm assuming you don't have the GO stuff. If you're going to buy something, I'd do the MG. If you already have the GO... maybe it makes sense to use it. If you have time to buy something online, I'd recommend Grow More Sea Grow All Purpose (instead of the MG). I think it's better for the soil, more organic-based ingredients. But, MG grows fine. If you have the GO already, it should be ok.

A lot of people like Jacks Classic (1-1-1 ratio). I havent' used it. I like Sea Grow because its ingredients are less synthetic (I think. I can't find a Jack's label). Jacks also has a Fruit product (2-1-2 ratio). Mixing Classic an Fruit together would produce a nice veg ratio (or, just using the Fruit by itself, although the K might be a tad high). They have a Bloom product (1-3-2 ratio). Mixing that with the Classic in bloom could be good. (If I used Jacks, I'd play around with all three that way. I do that kind of monkeying around with Sea Grow. But, I use unrelated things to adjust the NPK ratio. Things that are organic. Like guano, fish emulsion.). I'm probably doing "multi-bottle" type stuff considering everything I use. But, I'm more in control of it, with an eye to soil health and NPK ratios. Not just following a proprietary "schedule" (which might involve synthetics).



It could be your soil is drying and the ph is rising. I've noticed my soil swings a full ph point from wet to dry. I think that's part of the problem when people treat a cannabis plant as a houseplant and water it every day. It doesn't let the swing occur. The full range of nutrients isn't as widely available. When the soil dries slowly, it's tempting to keep it wet because you want to deliver more nutrients. But, if the soil is kept wet, then nutrients are less availabe. As you add more, they build up. Spiral into more acidity, etc. You see the effects and you want to feed more (causing more wetness, more buildup).

When the plants grow into the container better, maybe it will dry faster. If you use the MG "Tomato," I think there's less risk of burning than if you used the chelated GH 3-part synthetics. if you feel you can't get the nutrients to the plant as frequently as you like because the soil doesn't dry fast enough, I think the MG would be safer to feed heavier, so there's more nutrients in the soil as you wait to water again. (If you tried to feed GH Flora strongly so there's more present during the "waiting to dry" period, that might burn.). MG might burn. I can't guarantee it. But, I never saw it. I deliberately fed heavy trying to find where it would burn. All I got were blue-green leaves with the claw. :) That's not bad.
Ok yes i do have both GH and GO lineup. But i will keep an eye out for that mg tomato you mentioned. I appreciate the advice !👌
 
So pretty sure they were overwatered so i let them get nice and dry and they have grown just a little but now have new problems :/ n def? Nute burn?
 
908
93
So pretty sure they were overwatered so i let them get nice and dry and they have grown just a little but now have new problems :/ n def? Nute burn?
Question: Are you just watering around the stalk? I feel like I see a dark patch around the stalk, and the soil around it is dry(?).

I've never done that. I think it's bad idea because the roots will grow into dry soil. I always do a full drench, then let it dry (until the container is alarmingly light when you lift it). For seedlings, I don't let it get so dry. But, you're past that point.

I don't see N-def. The yellow lower leaves could be from keeping the soil too wet. Since you don't know anything about the soil, you might try feeding one 1/4 strength of something. You were talking about using Gen. Organics. As I said before, I would use MiracleGro Tomato simply because you're not sure how hot the soil is. I don't know if GO could burn if you supply unneeded fertilizer. I *do* know MG Tomato won't. You could use 1/4 tsp/gal to see if one plant perks up. That would give you an idea if it needs nutrients. If it does, then you could feed them all 1/2 tsp/gal. An then 3/4 or 1tsp/gal. (The idea here is that your soil is slow drying, if I recall. Because you have to wait so long between waterings, you have to wait to deliver nutrients. Because Tomato won't burn, you could feed heavier than you can with other products that will burn. That would get more nutrients into the soil for the long wait between feedings.).

I think the problem is that you don't know about the soil. So, you have to guess whether food would help or hurt.
 
Question: Are you just watering around the stalk? I feel like I see a dark patch around the stalk, and the soil around it is dry(?).

I've never done that. I think it's bad idea because the roots will grow into dry soil. I always do a full drench, then let it dry (until the container is alarmingly light when you lift it). For seedlings, I don't let it get so dry. But, you're past that point.

I don't see N-def. The yellow lower leaves could be from keeping the soil too wet. Since you don't know anything about the soil, you might try feeding one 1/4 strength of something. You were talking about using Gen. Organics. As I said before, I would use MiracleGro Tomato simply because you're not sure how hot the soil is. I don't know if GO could burn if you supply unneeded fertilizer. I *do* know MG Tomato won't. You could use 1/4 tsp/gal to see if one plant perks up. That would give you an idea if it needs nutrients. If it does, then you could feed them all 1/2 tsp/gal. An then 3/4 or 1tsp/gal. (The idea here is that your soil is slow drying, if I recall. Because you have to wait so long between waterings, you have to wait to deliver nutrients. Because Tomato won't burn, you could feed heavier than you can with other products that will burn. That would get more nutrients into the soil for the long wait between feedings.).

I think the problem is that you don't know about the soil. So, you have to guess whether food would help or hurt.
Yes this time I didnt really deilbertly water around the stalk but i did go really light this morning. Because before i saturated it took forever to start 2 dry :/ ugh being a noob sucks haha but maybe i didnt wait until it was fully dry before. Saturating. Should I saturate now or wait till that little ammount i watered this morning dries? By the way i ended up buying a bunch of stuff to feed compost tea. Worm castings, urb microbials, bat guano, alfalfa meal etc... just waiting on it in the mail but i wanna get more of that natural microbe full soil to help the plants like you mentioned
 
908
93
Should I saturate now or wait till that little ammount i watered this morning dries?
How dry was it? It's hard to say what to do because, if you really waited for it to dry sufficiently... then some areas of the soil will become too dry (now that you've partially watered). But, it's possible you didn't wait long enough before watering. Most new growers err in that direction (which contributes to problems). If that's the case, it would be better to let the soil dry thoroughly.

Most new growers treat their plant like a houseplant. Watering it each day, maintaining constant water in the soil. Cannabis doesn't like that. You want to go from throrough wet (5-10% runoff volume. If you weren't desireing a more organically-active soil/nutrients, I would recommend 10-20% runoff. But, I've read organic growers say that can be detrimental to the microbes.). You want some runoff because that will tell you there's no dry pockets. Then stand back an let it dry. If it drys too much, the leaves will droop in a wilted fashion (not the droop you have now). They'll bounce back when you water. It's best not to reach that point (especially with your desire for organically-active soil). But, it's not bad to let it happen once so you know what "too dry" feels like when you lift the container. That will help you know when the plants are dry enough for watering. It should feel very light. (It can be alarming how light it feels.).

But, right now, with a potential wet/dry zone in the soil... I don't know what to say. If it was really dry enough to water, then I would drench the whole thing. If you were too eager to water (as most new growers are), it would be better to wait.

By the way i ended up buying a bunch of stuff to feed compost tea. Worm castings, urb microbials, bat guano, alfalfa meal etc... just waiting on it in the mail but i wanna get more of that natural microbe full soil to help the plants like you mentioned
You should read the book "Teaming With Microbes." It's very good.
 
Alright i transplanted into 5 gal fabric pots. Added a ton more perlite, worm castings, and mychoriza. Also brewed a compost tea for 24 hrs containing
Worm castings
Bat guano
Liquid seaweed
Alfalfa meal
Unsulpured molasses
And watered with that after transplanting. I noticed today how well the medium began to dry unlike before it was packed and damp. The plants look good up top but like shit on the bottom leaves. Yellow and brown. One of them i cut the bottom 2 leaves off cuz it looked so bad and i dont thinknthe plant liked that too much. What do you guys think? They are gonna be a month old soon and are still tiny as hell. Do you think they will bounce back from the overwatering? I know they look terrible. Ill keep you guys posted but when i opened the tent this morning it was the first time ive seen them actually perky up top in awhile. The seeds were also stored about a year before germ so that prop didnt help.
 
908
93
What do you guys think? They are gonna be a month old soon and are still tiny as hell. Do you think they will bounce back from the overwatering?
Cannabis is very resiliant. You need to resist the common practice of "killing them with kindness." You have to step back and let them do their thing. You've mixed a lot of organic sources of nutrients into the soil. Fed a tea. Up till now it's looked like they weren't getting enough food (compounded by the soil staying wet too long). Now you have to see how they respond to the enriched and faster-drying soil.

Personally, I would have gone with feeding them ordinary fertilizer every. I think that would have been safe because the soil didn't seem to have enough nutrients. Now that you've added nutrients to the soil, it's going to be difficult to know if/when to feed with watering. More risk of burning if you try it now. I like feeding with wateings because it seems more immediate, directly relates to runoff ppms. I think what you're doing requires more trust in the plant/soil to work more naturally. That may be better. But, you may be tempted to help too much. (I would.).

The containers are oversized for the plants. That will exacerbate the slow-drying problem (until the roots grow into the container). But, you did that to offset the smaller container's slow-drying soil. As the plants grow into the soil, you should notice it dry faster. Get used to lifting the container to discern how wet it is. Eventually you'll be surprised how light they feel when dry. (I suppose it's ok to lift fabric containers. I've never used them.).

You're probably not going to see much above-ground growth because the growth will probably be underground. I notice that when I grow autoflowers. Transplanting is a risk for them because they have a fixed lifepsan. Shock like transplant can squander some of their life. I plant the seeds in 3gal containers. They will seem like runts for awhile as the roots grow into the container. So, try to be patient.
 

Latest Cannabis Seeds

Strawberry Sorbet
Sold out

Strawberry Sorbet

DNA Genetics
Heirloom Swiss Sativa x Sorbet
6
Feminized
Limited
$85.00
Sorbet Stash
Sold out

Sorbet Stash

DNA Genetics
Headstash x Sorbet
6
Feminized
Limited
$85.00
Strawberries & Cream
Sold out

Strawberries & Cream

Connoisseur Genetics
Strawberry Cough x The White
5
Feminized
Limited
$80.00
El Chapo
Sold out

El Chapo

The Plug Seedbank
Sour Diesel IBL (ECSD) x Headbanger
6
Feminized
Limited
$90.00
Top