Beachwalker
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Yes or even longer, I've have small plants like that in 5 inch square containers that don't get watered for 2 weeks after a heavy watering., that's why I suggest you get a sample dry pot and keep it nearby and then when you think a plant is dry pick them both up and compare the weight of the dry sample to the plant you're considering watering and that's the best way to teach yourself when a plant needs watering in my opinion good luckThese pots are a little smaller than solo cups. I thought they would be fine but, first grow. Live an learn ill have 2 get some solos
Thing is it will go like 5-6 days before it gets dry
Ok man. Ill do that thanks alotYes or even longer, I've have small plants like that in 5 inch square containers that don't get watered for 2 weeks after a heavy watering., that's why I suggest you get a sample dry pot and keep it nearby and then when you think a plant is dry pick them both up and compare the weight of the dry sample to the plant you're considering watering and that's the best way to teach yourself when a plant needs watering in my opinion good luck
Hopefully they are still salvageable. Looked like crap this morningYes or even longer, I've have small plants like that in 5 inch square containers that don't get watered for 2 weeks after a heavy watering., that's why I suggest you get a sample dry pot and keep it nearby and then when you think a plant is dry pick them both up and compare the weight of the dry sample to the plant you're considering watering and that's the best way to teach yourself when a plant needs watering in my opinion good luck
To the question of GH nutrients in soil: they will work fine. Nutes made for hydro just add some micronutrients and some pH buffering. There is nothing there that won't work in soil. As with any fertilizer, sparingly is best.
Right, im gonna use the gen organics man. Do you think that would be alright? And actually, checked the plants after work 2day and they are actually better looking than this morning. The best of the bunch even grew a good bit. Ive been letting them air out and thr soil dry past couple days. I need to be more careful with the waterings. But ill take your advice to stick towards my soil intended nutrients. Hopefully they keep looking upSynthetic nutrients take a toll on the soil microbes. If someone wants to use GH Flora 3-part, why not use Pro-Mix HP with 25% more perilite added? (I.e., soilless?). What the point of using soil only to use a soilless nutrient?
I've seen a lot of problems from people using soil nutrients in soillless, or vice versa. I would match the fertilizer product to the medium, and maximize their effectiveness together. It's not hard to use a soil fertilizer, and supplement with fish emulsion (or blood meal, or bat guano) to boost N. Or, boost P with a bone meal tea (or guano). I mean, it's not harder than mixing 3 bottles of stuff. The upside is that the rootzone will be healthier. The microbes will have something to eat.
We can quibble about whether it works, can be made to work, etc. But, why invite sub-optimal conditions that way? Soil is bilogically active. Why not capitalize upon that? If there's no desire to capitalize on it, why not eliminate the biologic component and keep it simple with a soilless medium (just you, god, nutrients and the plant. No heavy soil interfering with delivering nutrients?). This is one of many things that can complicate a grow. I wouldn't underestimate how those things can pile up for a new grower.
Right, im gonna use the gen organics man. Do you think that would be alright?
And actually, checked the plants after work 2day and they are actually better looking than this morning. The best of the bunch even grew a good bit. Ive been letting them air out and thr soil dry past couple days. I need to be more careful with the waterings. But ill take your advice to stick towards my soil intended nutrients. Hopefully they keep looking up
Personally, I don't like any of the typical hydro-store "lineups." I think it's better to focus on NPK ratio, and strength.
My advice to new growers is to just use a 1-1-1 ratio all the way through. If I were you, I'd run down to Ace Hardware and buy a box of MiracleGro Tomato (18-18-21). The only thing better than a ratio of 1-1-1 is if the K is a little higher all the way through. That stuff is great (for $6). If you want to improve the N in veg, you can add some fish emulsion. That's good for the soil microbes. In flower you can boost the P using a bat guano. (But, I wouldn't mess with that stuff. The Tomato is a ratio 1-1-1.2. That's good.).
I've used it. 1/2 to 5/8 tsp/gal works fine. When I fed too heavy, I didn't get nutrient burn. I got N toxicity (the claw and dark green). So, I think it's safe that way.
I'm assuming you don't have the GO stuff. If you're going to buy something, I'd do the MG. If you already have the GO... maybe it makes sense to use it. If you have time to buy something online, I'd recommend Grow More Sea Grow All Purpose (instead of the MG). I think it's better for the soil, more organic-based ingredients. But, MG grows fine. If you have the GO already, it should be ok.
A lot of people like Jacks Classic (1-1-1 ratio). I havent' used it. I like Sea Grow because its ingredients are less synthetic (I think. I can't find a Jack's label). Jacks also has a Fruit product (2-1-2 ratio). Mixing Classic an Fruit together would produce a nice veg ratio (or, just using the Fruit by itself, although the K might be a tad high). They have a Bloom product (1-3-2 ratio). Mixing that with the Classic in bloom could be good. (If I used Jacks, I'd play around with all three that way. I do that kind of monkeying around with Sea Grow. But, I use unrelated things to adjust the NPK ratio. Things that are organic. Like guano, fish emulsion.). I'm probably doing "multi-bottle" type stuff considering everything I use. But, I'm more in control of it, with an eye to soil health and NPK ratios. Not just following a proprietary "schedule" (which might involve synthetics).
Ok i do have the gh and go line up. But ill look for that mg tomato atuff you mentioned.
It could be your soil is drying and the ph is rising. I've noticed my soil swings a full ph point from wet to dry. I think that's part of the problem when people treat a cannabis plant as a houseplant and water it every day. It doesn't let the swing occur. The full range of nutrients isn't as widely available. When the soil dries slowly, it's tempting to keep it wet because you want to deliver more nutrients. But, if the soil is kept wet, then nutrients are less availabe. As you add more, they build up. Spiral into more acidity, etc. You see the effects and you want to feed more (causing more wetness, more buildup).
When the plants grow into the container better, maybe it will dry faster. If you use the MG "Tomato," I think there's less risk of burning than if you used the chelated GH 3-part synthetics. if you feel you can't get the nutrients to the plant as frequently as you like because the soil doesn't dry fast enough, I think the MG would be safer to feed heavier, so there's more nutrients in the soil as you wait to water again. (If you tried to feed GH Flora strongly so there's more present during the "waiting to dry" period, that might burn.). MG might burn. I can't guarantee it. But, I never saw it. I deliberately fed heavy trying to find where it would burn. All I got were blue-green leaves with the claw. :) That's not bad.
Ok yes i do have both GH and GO lineup. But i will keep an eye out for that mg tomato you mentioned. I appreciate the advice !Personally, I don't like any of the typical hydro-store "lineups." I think it's better to focus on NPK ratio, and strength.
My advice to new growers is to just use a 1-1-1 ratio all the way through. If I were you, I'd run down to Ace Hardware and buy a box of MiracleGro Tomato (18-18-21). The only thing better than a ratio of 1-1-1 is if the K is a little higher all the way through. That stuff is great (for $6). If you want to improve the N in veg, you can add some fish emulsion. That's good for the soil microbes. In flower you can boost the P using a bat guano. (But, I wouldn't mess with that stuff. The Tomato is a ratio 1-1-1.2. That's good.).
I've used it. 1/2 to 5/8 tsp/gal works fine. When I fed too heavy, I didn't get nutrient burn. I got N toxicity (the claw and dark green). So, I think it's safe that way.
I'm assuming you don't have the GO stuff. If you're going to buy something, I'd do the MG. If you already have the GO... maybe it makes sense to use it. If you have time to buy something online, I'd recommend Grow More Sea Grow All Purpose (instead of the MG). I think it's better for the soil, more organic-based ingredients. But, MG grows fine. If you have the GO already, it should be ok.
A lot of people like Jacks Classic (1-1-1 ratio). I havent' used it. I like Sea Grow because its ingredients are less synthetic (I think. I can't find a Jack's label). Jacks also has a Fruit product (2-1-2 ratio). Mixing Classic an Fruit together would produce a nice veg ratio (or, just using the Fruit by itself, although the K might be a tad high). They have a Bloom product (1-3-2 ratio). Mixing that with the Classic in bloom could be good. (If I used Jacks, I'd play around with all three that way. I do that kind of monkeying around with Sea Grow. But, I use unrelated things to adjust the NPK ratio. Things that are organic. Like guano, fish emulsion.). I'm probably doing "multi-bottle" type stuff considering everything I use. But, I'm more in control of it, with an eye to soil health and NPK ratios. Not just following a proprietary "schedule" (which might involve synthetics).
It could be your soil is drying and the ph is rising. I've noticed my soil swings a full ph point from wet to dry. I think that's part of the problem when people treat a cannabis plant as a houseplant and water it every day. It doesn't let the swing occur. The full range of nutrients isn't as widely available. When the soil dries slowly, it's tempting to keep it wet because you want to deliver more nutrients. But, if the soil is kept wet, then nutrients are less availabe. As you add more, they build up. Spiral into more acidity, etc. You see the effects and you want to feed more (causing more wetness, more buildup).
When the plants grow into the container better, maybe it will dry faster. If you use the MG "Tomato," I think there's less risk of burning than if you used the chelated GH 3-part synthetics. if you feel you can't get the nutrients to the plant as frequently as you like because the soil doesn't dry fast enough, I think the MG would be safer to feed heavier, so there's more nutrients in the soil as you wait to water again. (If you tried to feed GH Flora strongly so there's more present during the "waiting to dry" period, that might burn.). MG might burn. I can't guarantee it. But, I never saw it. I deliberately fed heavy trying to find where it would burn. All I got were blue-green leaves with the claw. :) That's not bad.
I was actually thinking about turning one es300 off too.you might have too much light for those lil plants....
So pretty sure they were overwatered so i let them get nice and dry and they have grown just a little but now have new problems :/ n def? Nute burn?
Yes this time I didnt really deilbertly water around the stalk but i did go really light this morning. Because before i saturated it took forever to start 2 dry :/ ugh being a noob sucks haha but maybe i didnt wait until it was fully dry before. Saturating. Should I saturate now or wait till that little ammount i watered this morning dries? By the way i ended up buying a bunch of stuff to feed compost tea. Worm castings, urb microbials, bat guano, alfalfa meal etc... just waiting on it in the mail but i wanna get more of that natural microbe full soil to help the plants like you mentionedQuestion: Are you just watering around the stalk? I feel like I see a dark patch around the stalk, and the soil around it is dry(?).
I've never done that. I think it's bad idea because the roots will grow into dry soil. I always do a full drench, then let it dry (until the container is alarmingly light when you lift it). For seedlings, I don't let it get so dry. But, you're past that point.
I don't see N-def. The yellow lower leaves could be from keeping the soil too wet. Since you don't know anything about the soil, you might try feeding one 1/4 strength of something. You were talking about using Gen. Organics. As I said before, I would use MiracleGro Tomato simply because you're not sure how hot the soil is. I don't know if GO could burn if you supply unneeded fertilizer. I *do* know MG Tomato won't. You could use 1/4 tsp/gal to see if one plant perks up. That would give you an idea if it needs nutrients. If it does, then you could feed them all 1/2 tsp/gal. An then 3/4 or 1tsp/gal. (The idea here is that your soil is slow drying, if I recall. Because you have to wait so long between waterings, you have to wait to deliver nutrients. Because Tomato won't burn, you could feed heavier than you can with other products that will burn. That would get more nutrients into the soil for the long wait between feedings.).
I think the problem is that you don't know about the soil. So, you have to guess whether food would help or hurt.
Should I saturate now or wait till that little ammount i watered this morning dries?
By the way i ended up buying a bunch of stuff to feed compost tea. Worm castings, urb microbials, bat guano, alfalfa meal etc... just waiting on it in the mail but i wanna get more of that natural microbe full soil to help the plants like you mentioned
What do you guys think? They are gonna be a month old soon and are still tiny as hell. Do you think they will bounce back from the overwatering?
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