Thinking Of Changing From 1000hid To 1000 Db Gravitas

[mainebound]

I am currently running 4000 digital ballasts with 1000 hps bulbs in a 10x10 Gorilla tent. I would like to change to either 4 600 gravitas or two 1000wt Db 9n light rails. Will I be able to manage my heat with two 424 cfm out takes and one 424cfm intake and 9f course I have multiple fans moving the air over and under the canopy. Will that be enough,also I have a dehumidifier in the tent too.

 

[sedate]

I am currently running 4000 digital ballasts with 1000 hps bulbs in a 10x10 Gorilla tent. I would like to change to either 4 600 gravitas or two 1000wt Db 9n light rails. Will I be able to manage my heat with two 424 cfm out takes and one 424cfm intake and 9f course I have multiple fans moving the air over and under the canopy. Will that be enough,also I have a dehumidifier in the tent too.

Why do you want to do that? What improvements/changes are you trying to make?

FWIW, If I had a 10x10 tent I would use 4x1000w HPS's or 6x600's.

 

[mainebound]

Well becausethe gravitas are much more on part and more energy efficient also the light is much better balanced than plain old hp bulbs no framework and just better all around. The 4 1000 wt lights I am running are wonderful but 8 believe the gravitas provide more and better light.

 

[sedate]

Well becausethe gravitas are much more on part

On part?

and more energy efficient

No Gavita's use a lil less than ~10% over thier output rated wattage. They are as efficient as everything else on the market. Not sure what you are reading/who are you talking to, but they are about as energy efficient as anything else that will fire a 1000w HID.

also the light is much better balanced than plain old hp bulbs

Which is irrelevant because that is not how chlorophyll works.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlorophyll

Now look at those graphs for both forms of chlorophyll - and now good look at the output graph on the back of your HPS bulb box. Notice anything similar?

no framework and just better all around.

Agreed. No supporting ductwork & cannon fans & giant reflectors is pretty cool - except -

- you are in a tent. And you want to replace some duct work you already have with two light movers you don't? This is less work - uh - how?

The 4 1000 wt lights I am running are wonderful but 8 believe the gravitas provide more and better light.

They won't. They will cost you just under $2000 to setup, so you can have half your tent in darkness all the time.

Gavita's are made for commercial spaces with 10 - 15' ceilings and multiple overlapping light sources with multi-ton A/C. They are not appropriate for you. Rock out with what you have. If you want to get more efficient, drop the 4x1000's for 6x600's and swap in some dual-arcs or something if you are really drinking that spectrum cool-aid.

Honestly, I think the upgrade is somewhat lateral, but not totally fucking backwards like swapping out 4x1000's for 2x1000's+light movers.

 

[mainebound]

On part?


No Gavita's use a lil less than ~10% over thier output rated wattage. They are as efficient as everything else on the market. Not sure what you are reading/who are you talking to, but they are about as energy efficient as anything else that will fire a 1000w HID.



Which is irrelevant because that is not how chlorophyll works.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlorophyll

Now look at those graphs for both forms of chlorophyll - and now good look at the output graph on the back of your HPS bulb box. Notice anything similar?



Agreed. No supporting ductwork & cannon fans & giant reflectors is pretty cool - except -

- you are in a tent. And you want to replace some duct work you already have with two light movers you don't? This is less work - uh - how?



They won't. They will cost you just under $2000 to setup, so you can have half your tent in darkness all the time.

Gavita's are made for commercial spaces with 10 - 15' ceilings and multiple overlapping light sources with multi-ton A/C. They are not appropriate for you. Rock out with what you have. If you want to get more efficient, drop the 4x1000's for 6x600's and swap in some dual-arcs or something if you are really drinking that spectrum cool-aid.

Honestly, I think the upgrade is somewhat lateral, but not totally fucking backwards like swapping out 4x1000's for 2x1000's+light movers.

I think you are right but I am going to build a indoor high ceiling grow ,my grand expansion plans,the tent is a Gorilla so I can up to 9ft ,the staggered 600s make sense basicly they are supposedlymore effecient in the long run than 1000s,or so I have read. I found a 3 room with bathroom warehouse type space ,two rooms 14x16,one 10x10. A break area and a half bath no less for 800 mth. Drop ceilings,electricly sound,water non chloramated. So while the next run is going I think a build in if I can swing the spot. Got me dreaming and scheming lol.Flower room,veg ,clone room and a drying room.

 

[mainebound]

I think you are right but I am going to build a indoor high ceiling grow ,my grand expansion plans,the tent is a Gorilla so I can up to 9ft ,the staggered 600s make sense basicly they are supposedlymore effecient in the long run than 1000s,or so I have read. I found a 3 room with bathroom warehouse type space ,two rooms 14x16,one 10x10. A break area and a half bath no less for 800 mth. Drop ceilings,electricly sound,water non chloramated. So while the next run is going I think a build in if I can swing the spot. Got me dreaming and scheming lol.Flower room,veg ,clone room and a drying room.

And those will have gravita dbls in the flower and led panels in the veg.

 

[jumpincactus]

I'll throw this out there. Dont get too rough on me, I would say with 4 gavies you will be struggling with heat control. Just my 2 cents......

And as @sedate mentioned you even with 9 feet ceiling really have a lot of head space with the gavies. Gavitas were designed for larger greenhouse commercial spaces. Strain dependent and training tech chosen you could run out of room quickly. Gavies run hot n bright as F%%% .... plus in a in a tent???? Not a chance!!

 

[mainebound]

I'll throw this out there. Dont get too rough on me, I would say with 4 gavies you will be struggling with heat control. Just my 2 cents......

And as @sedate mentioned you even with 9 feet ceiling really have a lot of head space with the gavies. Gavitas were designed for larger greenhouse commercial spaces. Strain dependent and training tech chosen you could run out of room quickly. Gavies run hot n bright as F%%% .... plus in a in a tent???? Not a chance!!

I agree ,you misunderstood, I am not going to put them in the tent,I might just run my 1000s at 650 next run but I will put the gravitas in the new build I am planning no tents high ceiling air splits etc. is what I was trying to say.Sorry to be vague there at the end of the tent conversation.

 

[jumpincactus]

I agree ,you misunderstood, I am not going to put them in the tent,I might just run my 1000s at 650 next run but I will put the gravitas in the new build I am planning no tents high ceiling air splits etc. is what I was trying to say.Sorry to be vague there at the end of the tent conversation.

No worries. :)

 

[Junk]

I am currently running 4000 digital ballasts with 1000 hps bulbs in a 10x10 Gorilla tent.

So do you mean, 4 1k ballasts, & 4 1k bulbs? If so, I don't see why you need to change anything....maybe just grab some cheap MH bulbs for vegging.

Why do you want to do that? What improvements/changes are you trying to make?

FWIW, If I had a 10x10 tent I would use 4x1000w HPS's or 6x600's.

At least.

the tent is a Gorilla so I can up to 9ft ,the staggered 600s make sense basicly they are supposedlymore effecient in the long run than 1000s,or so I have read.

I don't know who told you that, but a watt is a watt. A 600 is just less wattage than a 1k. That doesn't mean they are inherently more efficient. Whoever told you that I think is confusing efficiency with power draw.

The only way efficiency really enters the conversation is grams per watt. But you are talking HID vs HID, so there isn't much difference there.

The way I would choose to run it is - how much wattage can you afford to deal with, while keep your temps in check. Take that wattage, & figure out what the most efficient way to spread it around the tent.

I wouldn't bother changing to DE if you already have all the other stuff. It's not that drastic a change to glassless HID. Unless you have money you just want to blow.

 

[mainebound]

Actually I read a couple articles from some folks that tested 600s over 1000s and discovered that stsggered 600s at a slightly lower level (being possible with enclosed lights) saved power and the light levels were right on part with the 1000s and due to the staggered design much more effecient in light intensity and eliminated hot spots and so on. I just put this up because I find it interesting and doable. No I don't have money to blow. But I am building a bigger indoor permanent grow with flower room veg room and a drying processing room, all legal medical facilities. So I am just exploring all avenues. :)

 

[Junk]

Actually I read a couple articles from some folks that tested 600s over 1000s and discovered that stsggered 600s at a slightly lower level (being possible with enclosed lights) saved power and the light levels were right on part with the 1000s and due to the staggered design much more effecient in light intensity and eliminated hot spots and so on. I just put this up because I find it interesting and doable. No I don't have money to blow. But I am building a bigger indoor permanent grow with flower room veg room and a drying processing room, all legal medical facilities. So I am just exploring all avenues. :)

I'm not a room designer by any means, but I've run quite a few lights, in quite a few setups.

I think you are skipping a step in the process...

Use the same hoods, same staggering & you should get proportionate readings if you use a 1k. A 1k is simply more output than a 600, usually by about 500 watts depending on the ballast. But with more output, comes more heat.

So a 1k is often running closer to 1100w, just shy of double the wattage of a 600. There IS such a thing as too much light, but not at the level you are talking about. At this level, the thing you need to worry about is heat. If you can handle the heat (& expenses included in managing it)(plus the $ for electric) You want as much light as possible.

But more light = more heat. At this level, you want all the light you can get, what you have to figure out is how much heat you can deal with.

You don't need help picking the light per se...you need help figuring out how much heat your room can handle. Do you have the details of the room? Dimensions, location (basement vs 2nd floor), ambient temp/rh, intake/exhaust set up. What is your outdoor environment like throughout the year? E.g. I live in New England, so we have cold winters, fairly hot/humid summers. But on the whole, it's unpredictable. So in the winter, I could run glassless (no glass = better in my opinion) pump in air from outside & run 1k's. In the summer, it's very hard to manage temps with a 1k glassless. So the glass goes back in & the bulbs get cooled & hot air pushed outside.

I'm not sure if I'm making sense, it's a heavy brain fog day. But if you want to grow good meds, you have to remain in the right temperature ranges. This is what you should be trying to figure out. The more light the better. I'm currently flowering at 100w per ft2 & the plants are loving it. The "too much light" threshold is pretty high, & under that, you want as much light as you can run.

So, you pick your light based on what you can handle thermally. We can help you figure that out with some of the details I asked above.

 

[AlaskanGrown]

Actually I read a couple articles from some folks that tested 600s over 1000s and discovered that stsggered 600s at a slightly lower level (being possible with enclosed lights) saved power and the light levels were right on part with the 1000s and due to the staggered design much more effecient in light intensity and eliminated hot spots and so on.. :)

Could you pass that info along?
I'm trying to figure out watts and Sq Ft now for a build. I'm starting from scratch, blank slate, and need a building. Thanks.

 

[mainebound]

Could you pass that info along?
I'm trying to figure out watts and Sq Ft now for a build. I'm starting from scratch, blank slate, and need a building. Thanks.

Sure let me get that together for you,not at home at the moment

 

[Pimples]

On part?


No Gavita's use a lil less than ~10% over thier output rated wattage. They are as efficient as everything else on the market. Not sure what you are reading/who are you talking to, but they are about as energy efficient as anything else that will fire a 1000w HID.



Which is irrelevant because that is not how chlorophyll works.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlorophyll

Now look at those graphs for both forms of chlorophyll - and now good look at the output graph on the back of your HPS bulb box. Notice anything similar?



Agreed. No supporting ductwork & cannon fans & giant reflectors is pretty cool - except -

- you are in a tent. And you want to replace some duct work you already have with two light movers you don't? This is less work - uh - how?



They won't. They will cost you just under $2000 to setup, so you can have half your tent in darkness all the time.

Gavita's are made for commercial spaces with 10 - 15' ceilings and multiple overlapping light sources with multi-ton A/C. They are not appropriate for you. Rock out with what you have. If you want to get more efficient, drop the 4x1000's for 6x600's and swap in some dual-arcs or something if you are really drinking that spectrum cool-aid.

Honestly, I think the upgrade is somewhat lateral, but not totally fucking backwards like swapping out 4x1000's for 2x1000's+light movers.

This^^^ some of the best solid advice ive heard in awhile. 6x600's would kill it in a 10 x 10 tent. Double endeds arent for everyone. Especially tent and small growers just because they "heard" they were the best. They arent. Not in yours and most other home hobby/tent grower situation. Anyways..6x600's in a 10 x 10 tent would be damn near perfect. A point source of light just about everywhere. And still leave good alleys/ends/perimeter for circ fans and the almost for sure air conditioner and dehuey that your going to need. Air cooled hoods or not..in the summer anyways your gonna need some sort of ac and dehuey. With all those fixtures...even if your use air cooled hoods with duct/inlines/glass...they only do so much. Radiant heat is gonna get ya in the sumner when air cooled hoods are just sucking in warmer air. Place the hood fans outside the tent and use insulated ducting...2 major sources pf radiant heat you can eliminate. Thereby cutting down on a.c. usage.