gardnguyahoy
- Posts
- 3,360
- Reactions
- 12,551
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2015
- Points
- 263
I would agree with almost everything you just said. My main point, is that, in my opinion, thinking that soil is less complicated is incorrect. If you want to kill it soil, you gotta know your stuff. If you want to kill it in organic soil, you have to be even better. However, it's pretty easy to buy 6 bottles of GH nutes, add water, & mix. Labor wise, easier than mixing soil.
I find soil to be more forgiving to a noob provided you dont overfeed tremendously...
Also million ways to skin a cat. I rocked hydro for a year or so. I much prefer top drip Coco. Imo much easier, but some prefer soil, and others find easier to do hydro. Whenever I ran buckets I always had to clean buckets and sterilize, no need to do that to numerous buckets, I got 1 rez now
You can include me in that group. Terpenes are measurably higher in soil. The quality of the high however, has nothing to do with the soil. Terpenes are higher, cannabinoids are different in soil. But how those all mix, then has to mix with each person's body chemistry. So, no one can really say, which will be a better high for any one person. One can only say which they find to be a better high for themselves. Personally, I like them all.
Conversely I've seen so many reports by now it seems clear that, all environmental factors being equal, hydroponic methods can produce 1-3% more thc than the same strain grown in soil. That interesting to me!
I hadn't touched a ph pen in years... but that said, I have previously gone over and over my soil mix and Albrecht ratios... I then kicked it to Tim Wilson and he assisted in fine tuning a few things to what I believe is near perfect...
Rhizosphere interactions maintain my ph... making everything overall less complicated in my opinion. It does require a bit of trust however in the rhizosphere, and there is no instant gratification...
And the idea of water and moving parts just SEEMS overwhelming from the other side of the fence. Its up to you, to voice that and make sure that it becomes common knowledge. Cause ive personally heard it a lot. Hydro is easier. I didnt respond to this cause i disagree lol.
I was just seeing a bit of frustration in your post and i thought maybe i could help ease it is all haha.
Some of my hydro snob friends say soil grown doesn't get them as high- which really leads into what you had to say about it being purely subjective, based more on biochemistry and experience driven expectation, rather than the product itself.
Its important to understand that the Ph scale is logarithmic, each unit of change equals a tenfold change
in hydroxide ions. A ph of 6.o is 10 times more acidic than a ph of 7.0. that being said 5.0 is 10x more acidic
than 6.0.....but 5.0 is 100X more acidic 7.0 tread lightly my friends. Tipz
@tipz speaks the truth. On a similar note, I've mentioned it before; If you are serious as a horticulturalist, and truly trying to deepen your understanding of botany, it's is essential to attend classes on Chem and organic chemistry(p Chem optional). Companion books such as the twb(teaming with microbes) series are fine, but I feel it's more important to read actual textbooks and learn why the things we do, are borne out of the foundations of chemistry. And a botany class and biology 1 classes are much more useful imo than reading companion style books. They won't help you setup a room or get your cloning technique down, but I feel like it should be essential learning the concepts of molar conc. Etc etc.And interactions of the chemistry and how it relates at the observable macro level.. Now if you're just trying to grow that flame, no need to feel like you have to comply at all, but anyone trying to get into the sciencey side absolutely must as a base pre req imo
I've been using coco at about 30% total volume in my soil beds, so I'm no stranger to its benefits. A buddy runs the same soul recipe as I do, but replaced the peat with coco so he's pushing 50-60% volume coco in an organic system, he's inspiring me to think beyond my practices for sure. I'll check out the nitron A product, see what it's all about.Secret life of Plants... I have a garden book by Dr. Mark Kathy from the Nat. Arboretum ,he's an agronomist, ...then the hand book from my master gardener course extension agents...
@NaturalTherapy ... Coco is very good, been using for years, my best mix in it was Azomite and worm casts and greensand...
As far as environmental factors for med grade IMHO I used MH light that brought resin levels up an terpenes... Also used Nitron A 35 soil conditioner ,still do, is made from Hemlock tree.
cw...
I am about at the end of veg with my dwc. Gonna pull this Lil bitch out of the dirt (wasn't for me) that is in flower probably won't even get a quarter oz. Just couldn't do it correctly in the dirt. One of you guys could have pooped in my soil and made it grow better. Dwc on the other hand is BANGING, big and beatiful. I am at the potential for 40+ nodes on a plant that is roughly 6 inches tall, maybe 2 ft in diameter. Maybe it is because I liked to mess around and check on ph regularly, I just follow the directions on the bottles for feeding and calimag. But, yeah this is my first dwc. Did it in soil in high school, tried soil this year and realized I needed to grow faster. Sooo, I did only used to grow in soil as you said, and I'm trying dwc and loving the "black and white" guidelines. Waaaaay easier to grow a plant that it technically always overwatered compared to soil.I'd love to test that theory & take a noob who has only done soil with pics of their prior runs etc. Tell em to get one DWC bucket, I'll give them a recipe to run straight through (it won't change). Then have them report back as to what they found.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?