Lazerus00 said:

Okay so as a starting point lets say I know absolutely nothing about electricity, fuse boxs, amps, and safety knowledge. I was just going to pay an electrician to come over and give everythhing a once over and install anything i might need, like a dedicated fuse box and power directly for the basement(if thats even a thing).....Okay so how do I figure how how much stuff I can plug in safely without blowing a fuse? What do you do if you need more outlets or mor power to an area like my basement. Is it something an electrician has to install?? Any help would be great, Im also googling stuff but figured one of yous guys would be pretty savvy with this stuff........

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Lazerus00 said:

Okay so as a starting point lets say I know absolutely nothing about electricity, fuse boxs, amps, and safety knowledge. I was just going to pay an electrician to come over and give everythhing a once over and install anything i might need, like a dedicated fuse box and power directly for the basement(if thats even a thing).....Okay so how do I figure how how much stuff I can plug in safely without blowing a fuse? What do you do if you need more outlets or mor power to an area like my basement. Is it something an electrician has to install?? Any help would be great, Im also googling stuff but figured one of yous guys would be pretty savvy with this stuff........

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SeaF0ur said:

you'd need a sub-panel runnin from the main box... which you can do... you can even run the line... then, based off what you said, get someone else to do that last hookup to the live power...

now, the issue here is wiring... when wiring exceeds its load, it heats up... obvious problem...
standard household uses 2 sizes primarily

15a @120v = 14 ga wire
20a @120v = 12 ga wire

Your wattage is your volts multiplied by your amperage...

the usable wattage at 20 amps and 120 volts is 2400 watts.
At 240 volts and 20 amps it is 4800 watts.
(its good to stay around 80% of your MAX... best not to push it... if you care about things like fire, that is...)

This is because of the amperage, which is a very specific number electrons passing through the wire per second. That electron movement creates the friction that heats the wire up if you get too many electrons flowing.

Voltage is the pressure the electrons are under....

the combination of volts x amps = the net FORCE.... or watts.

Exceptions are made with regard to the length of copper wire..
once you get over a few hundred feet the wire carries less wattage because friction in the wire causes the voltage to drop.

If you call a guy, I'll give you advice someone once gave me....

Ask for a 50 amp sub panel.
Tell them you want a 240v outlet for a small welder at 30 amps.
And then ask for a couple 120v 20 amp circuits.

30 amp @240 will run 5 1000w lights safely, with a little extra for safety. (MAX of 7200w... but using 80%)
20 amp @120 will run a small A/C and exhaust and circulation fans.

If you need more lights... imagine a bigger welder... and ask for a 50@ or even 60a @240

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SeaF0ur said:

you'd need a sub-panel runnin from the main box... which you can do... you can even run the line... then, based off what you said, get someone else to do that last hookup to the live power...

now, the issue here is wiring... when wiring exceeds its load, it heats up... obvious problem...
standard household uses 2 sizes primarily

15a @120v = 14 ga wire
20a @120v = 12 ga wire

Your wattage is your volts multiplied by your amperage...

the usable wattage at 20 amps and 120 volts is 2400 watts.
At 240 volts and 20 amps it is 4800 watts.
(its good to stay around 80% of your MAX... best not to push it... if you care about things like fire, that is...)

This is because of the amperage, which is a very specific number electrons passing through the wire per second. That electron movement creates the friction that heats the wire up if you get too many electrons flowing.

Voltage is the pressure the electrons are under....

the combination of volts x amps = the net FORCE.... or watts.

Exceptions are made with regard to the length of copper wire..
once you get over a few hundred feet the wire carries less wattage because friction in the wire causes the voltage to drop.

If you call a guy, I'll give you advice someone once gave me....

Ask for a 50 amp sub panel.
Tell them you want a 240v outlet for a small welder at 30 amps.
And then ask for a couple 120v 20 amp circuits.

30 amp @240 will run 5 1000w lights safely, with a little extra for safety. (MAX of 7200w... but using -80%)
20 amp @120 will run a small A/C and exhaust and circulation fans.

If you need more lights... imagine a bigger welder... and ask for a 50@ or even 60a @240

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Lazerus00 said:

Thanks for all the info homey!!! Do you have any idea on what that might cost? an estimate is all im looking for nothing concrete...i just want an idea of what something like that might cost so i dont get too ripped off....

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Lazerus00 said:

@SeaF0ur

Also if I ask for a 240 outlet at 30 amp.....you say that will run 5 lights...wouldn't i need more then 1 of those outlets then? Sorry that just confused me...

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BlackSheepOG said:

Cost of all the parts and doing it yourself or cost of someone doing it all?

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BlackSheepOG said:

1 240 plug on a 5 light controller

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Lazerus00 said:

@SeaF0ur

Also if I ask for a 240 outlet at 30 amp.....you say that will run 5 lights...wouldn't i need more then 1 of those outlets then? Sorry that just confused me...

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Lazerus00 said:

lol......AHHHAAAAA.....smart....thank you....but ok so for now all my lights are 120v tho so do I just have to get extra of the normal outlets or does that change something....even when i buy an ac in a cpl months it will be a window unit that plugs into a normal outlet...Im not sure ill even need a 220 bc by the time I expand that big I will deff have moved....ill only be here for like another year or so.....so basically i need to make sure my 2 1k ballast are good plus my 960w led light plus all the fans, exhaust, intake, humidifers and dehumidifiers then probably the window ac and possibly 1 more 1k light.......what do i ask the electrician for if i want all that stuff to be okay and they will all be on 120 plugs???

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SeaF0ur said:

You could do the light controller.... but...

I'd use 6ga wire, a few 240 outlets and build a power strip... they exist, but not beefcake enough for me

http://www.gosale.com/search/220v power strip

Although y'all already know I like to make sure its done right so I tend to do everything myself...
the pre-made power strips use too skinny of a wire and cant take the amperage....

As for cost, use the welder story to get some rough estimates from local cats... tell em you want a 20 foot straight run of wire, (or however long you actually need) and a sub panel with the suggested outlets for a welder and some fans and hand tools... get a few local rough estimates over the phone...

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SeaF0ur said:

well, thats the reason for the welder... if you want 120, you need a "woodworking shop"... invent a chop saw, table saw, sawdust vacuum, a compressor, and a pile of hand tools in your mind... the sub panel and its line and amperage would pretty much stay the same.

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SeaF0ur said:

In an unfriendly state situation, you must take precautions... a tradesman wont be an idiot, and many smoke...
If your story dont make sense, you might as well just tell him what you're up to...

look at your growroom erhm... "woodworking shop" where do you want your ballasts? well... thats where the "saws" and "air compressor" goes... get it? now as long as that makes sense, he'll never question it.

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