EC and pH are different things. EC (or ppms) measures how much nutrient is in the pot. When there's not enough in the pot, that limits growth. When there's too much in the pot, the plant can't take up nutrients...and that limits growth. The way you'd measure it would be to water slowly to runoff, and then check the runoff water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter.No. I didn't think I'd need to because my medium is a 6.3 pH, i ph my humidifier, my nutrients, and they pretty much live off bottled water. The bottled water has a six point five pH I believe. I monitor the pH closely and keep it between 5.8 and 6.5 at the plant. What specifically does checking the runoff mean? I know what runoff is and I would imagine you'd be monitoring the excess water that passes through the soil, right? If my pH is steady on everything I feel like I don't need to do that. Can you convince me otherwise please? I can be too stubborn for my own good sometimes.
So I can buy an EC meter and that will basically tell me how much nutrients are left over in the soil? Like how much my plant isn't using? Is there a specific brand you would recommend? Does it only serve one purpose or should I get like a four in one? I've seen the meters I just never knew what they did.EC and pH are different things. EC (or ppms) measures how much nutrient is in the pot. When there's not enough in the pot, that limits growth. When there's too much in the pot, the plant can't take up nutrients...and that limits growth. The way you'd measure it would be to water slowly to runoff, and then check the runoff water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter.
We all started at the beginning. We all have advice, but it differs based on our style of growing.If anyone has any advice, besides transplanting, I'd love to hear it. No one ever taught me anything I am learning all of this on the fly.
Growing can be costly. It's not only about cost, though. It's also about quality.I love it despite it being a pretty expensive habit. I'll save money in the long run though. They are two months old but almost all the growth has happened in the last 4 days, since I added another beelux light, spider farmer supplemental red light, and Cal mag.
I doubt CalMag would cause drooping.I think the biggest OG Kush plant had a little too much Cal mag yesterday and that's why it's droopy.
That temperature and humidity would resolve to a VPD of about 0.9, which is too low for that age of plant. It probably would help to lower the humidity to about 60%. Here's a VPD chart for reference. Notice how the recommended VPD decreases as the plant ages.Humidity is at 70%, temp 80°. The top 3/4 in of soil gets dry before I water it. I really just introduced them all to calmag a few days ago.
I'd say it gives you an approximation, and if you check your runoff with every watering, you'll get an idea of whether you're feeding faster or slower than your plants are taking up nutrients. My suspicion, based on your plant size, age, and pot size, is that you've fed a lot more than your plants have used. I use Bluelab meters...one for TDS and one for pH. Apera and Hanna also make quality meters. Some people swear by inexpensive combo meters.So I can buy an EC meter and that will basically tell me how much nutrients are left over in the soil? Like how much my plant isn't using? Is there a specific brand you would recommend? Does it only serve one purpose or should I get like a four in one? I've seen the meters I just never knew what they did.
I agree with what Artfulcodger is telling you. I did something similar to you on my first grow, I had my seedlings in a red solo cup and they were in there for a month as i had ordered 3 gallon pots but they hadn't gotten to me yet, so my plants lacked cal mag and were starting to turn limegreen and yellowish, which is a sign for lack of cal and mag. after giving them cal mag 1tbsp every 2 weeks for 3 gallon they started getting more greener and dark greenish. i watered mine 1 and half gallons slowly for each 3 gallon pot i have. i use organic nutes so just to let you know. i also use Bluelab PH and EC meters. i like them i also have another ph meter and ec meter that were cheap and they are off by a little on both the PH and EC readings compared to the blue lab.We all started at the beginning. We all have advice, but it differs based on our style of growing.
Growing can be costly. It's not only about cost, though. It's also about quality.
I doubt CalMag would cause drooping.
That temperature and humidity would resolve to a VPD of about 0.9, which is too low for that age of plant. It probably would help to lower the humidity to about 60%. Here's a VPD chart for reference. Notice how the recommended VPD decreases as the plant ages.
View attachment 2322136
Just to clarify, the plants in the picture have been growing for 8 weeks from the moment they broke soil or does that include the time it took for them to germinate and sprout?View attachment 2321802First time ever growing. Never knew it'd be a dream come true. This feminized OG CUSH is just one of several that are like two months old and just starting to grow because my other lights was insufficient. What is going on, why haven't they flowered and why is there like five nodes in six inches on all of them. I finally got the lighting and the nutrients correct but man has this been different than what I anticipated LOL. I'm definitely hooked though.
I actually am going by the vpd but I'm basing it on the assumption by plant is pretty much still in early veg. That's why I have it at those numbers. It doesn't seem to be in "pre-flower" yet. I was told, wait til it displays sex, then adjust accordingly. Guy was growing almost 30 years. Don't judge photoperiod by age but by flower schedules. That's what he told me at least. It's a mission in and of itself, diagnosing which advice to heed on here lol. I just collect as much data as possible and then wade through it til I hit something solid. I greatly appreciate all advice though. You'll never hear me comp!ain.We all started at the beginning. We all have advice, but it differs based on our style of growing.
Growing can be costly. It's not only about cost, though. It's also about quality.
I doubt CalMag would cause drooping.
That temperature and humidity would resolve to a VPD of about 0.9, which is too low for that age of plant. It probably would help to lower the humidity to about 60%. Here's a VPD chart for reference. Notice how the recommended VPD decreases as the plant ages.
View attachment 2322136
No offense taken. I'm all the way invested now so I'll end up getting all the best stuff I can afford. I'm just reading a lot about lights while I'm saving to get one. Ill have it within three weeks. I'm a recent amputee who is yet to start seeking re-employment. Weed actually helped me get off fentanyl so.......... I'm probably getting a mars hydro or spider farmer around 2-$300. Phlizon... I'm not sure yet. Doing a lot of research on PAR. Any recommendations for that price range. A 2×4 closet.Dont get this twisted ok?
I am saying this to try to help you
and save you time and effort.
Invest in lighting my man. I have built my own systems
and in the end I wish i had spent all the money i did
on one really good light instead of learning the hard way.
With your small set up you could get a Mars TS1000 150w full spectrum dimmable
that will cover a 2x2 space for $100. Trust its WORTH the investment.
And the milk is for the soil not the leaves.
MH FC-4000 Evo is a nice flower light for a 2x4.No offense taken. I'm all the way invested now so I'll end up getting all the best stuff I can afford. I'm just reading a lot about lights while I'm saving to get one. Ill have it within three weeks. I'm a recent amputee who is yet to start seeking re-employment. Weed actually helped me get off fentanyl so.......... I'm probably getting a mars hydro or spider farmer around 2-$300. Phlizon... I'm not sure yet. Doing a lot of research on PAR. Any recommendations for that price range. A 2×4 closet.
Thanks. I'll never use it again I don't think. I was told foliar applications work to eliminate powdery mildew. Apparently they also can absorb the nutrients as long as it's not whole milk.Dont get this twisted ok?
I am saying this to try to help you
and save you time and effort.
Invest in lighting my man. I have built my own systems
and in the end I wish i had spent all the money i did
on one really good light instead of learning the hard way.
With your small set up you could get a Mars TS1000 150w full spectrum dimmable
that will cover a 2x2 space for $100. Trust its WORTH the investment.
And the milk is for the soil not the leaves.
I suggested raising the VPD because it looks to me like the plant is holding water. That is often due to watering too often, but it can also be due to a plant's reduced ability to transpire as much as it could (or should). VPD can be thought of as a growth regulator. Transpiration increases as the VPD increases. When it increases, more nutrients are transported to the leaves and more moisture is released into the atmosphere. When VPD is too low, slow growth and water retention are likely to occur.I actually am going by the vpd but I'm basing it on the assumption by plant is pretty much still in early veg. That's why I have it at those numbers. It doesn't seem to be in "pre-flower" yet. I was told, wait til it displays sex, then adjust accordingly.
Growing isn't only about data. It's also about recognizing what the plant needs and then providing it. There's no better advice than to learn how to read the plants. It's the only way to ease the frustration of endlessly chasing someone else's data.Guy was growing almost 30 years. Don't judge photoperiod by age but by flower schedules. That's what he told me at least. It's a mission in and of itself, diagnosing which advice to heed on here lol. I just collect as much data as possible and then wade through it til I hit something solid. I greatly appreciate all advice though. You'll never hear me comp!ain.
Reusable grocery bags work well and are cheap afGo to the grocery store and buy a gallon of milk
when done drinking the milk cut off the top
put some holes in the bottom fill with dirt transplant ur plant.
Quick easy cost effective up grade.
That's the kind of data I'm looking for. So dropping from 70% to 60% humidity might help, huh? Like 79° 60%??? I shouldn't have any trouble holding that. ThanksI suggested raising the VPD because it looks to me like the plant is holding water. That is often due to watering too often, but it can also be due to a plant's reduced ability to transpire as much as it could (or should). VPD can be thought of as a growth regulator. Transpiration increases as the VPD increases. When it increases, more nutrients are transported to the leaves and more moisture is released into the atmosphere. When VPD is too low, slow growth and water retention are likely to occur.
Growing isn't only about data. It's also about recognizing what the plant needs and then providing it. There's no better advice than to learn how to read the plants. It's the only way to ease the frustration of endlessly chasing someone else's data.
You're welcome.That's the kind of data I'm looking for. So dropping from 70% to 60% humidity might help, huh? Like 79° 60%??? I shouldn't have any trouble holding that. Thanks
they do appear to be quite small for 2 months. i've been having some trouble with my present grow but they are still a couple feet tall. i usually move my plants from the dixie cup they start in to a gallon container as soon as they can be (roughly a week after they sprout). last time i used the container types that are usually used for gallon vinegar and windshield washer fluids and this time i used gallon hawaian punch containers. the reason i use these is the way the milk containers are shaped i would have to remove more of the container to make it useful due to the area around the handle.Biggest to smallest: OG KUSH,GLUE, OG, OG KUSH...... Almost all two months old. All the growth has come in the last 4 days since getting a new beelux, supplemental red spider farmer lights, and cal mag.
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