EC and pH are different things. EC (or ppms) measures how much nutrient is in the pot. When there's not enough in the pot, that limits growth. When there's too much in the pot, the plant can't take up nutrients...and that limits growth. The way you'd measure it would be to water slowly to runoff, and then check the runoff water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter.
So I can buy an EC meter and that will basically tell me how much nutrients are left over in the soil? Like how much my plant isn't using? Is there a specific brand you would recommend? Does it only serve one purpose or should I get like a four in one? I've seen the meters I just never knew what they did.
We all started at the beginning. We all have advice, but it differs based on our style of growing.
Growing can be costly. It's not only about cost, though. It's also about quality.
I doubt CalMag would cause drooping.
That temperature and humidity would resolve to a VPD of about 0.9, which is too low for that age of plant. It probably would help to lower the humidity to about 60%. Here's a VPD chart for reference. Notice how the recommended VPD decreases as the plant ages.
I'd say it gives you an approximation, and if you check your runoff with every watering, you'll get an idea of whether you're feeding faster or slower than your plants are taking up nutrients. My suspicion, based on your plant size, age, and pot size, is that you've fed a lot more than your plants have used. I use Bluelab meters...one for TDS and one for pH. Apera and Hanna also make quality meters. Some people swear by inexpensive combo meters.
I agree with what Artfulcodger is telling you. I did something similar to you on my first grow, I had my seedlings in a red solo cup and they were in there for a month as i had ordered 3 gallon pots but they hadn't gotten to me yet, so my plants lacked cal mag and were starting to turn limegreen and yellowish, which is a sign for lack of cal and mag. after giving them cal mag 1tbsp every 2 weeks for 3 gallon they started getting more greener and dark greenish. i watered mine 1 and half gallons slowly for each 3 gallon pot i have. i use organic nutes so just to let you know. i also use Bluelab PH and EC meters. i like them i also have another ph meter and ec meter that were cheap and they are off by a little on both the PH and EC readings compared to the blue lab.
Just to clarify, the plants in the picture have been growing for 8 weeks from the moment they broke soil or does that include the time it took for them to germinate and sprout?
I actually am going by the vpd but I'm basing it on the assumption by plant is pretty much still in early veg. That's why I have it at those numbers. It doesn't seem to be in "pre-flower" yet. I was told, wait til it displays sex, then adjust accordingly. Guy was growing almost 30 years. Don't judge photoperiod by age but by flower schedules. That's what he told me at least. It's a mission in and of itself, diagnosing which advice to heed on here lol. I just collect as much data as possible and then wade through it til I hit something solid. I greatly appreciate all advice though. You'll never hear me comp!ain.
No offense taken. I'm all the way invested now so I'll end up getting all the best stuff I can afford. I'm just reading a lot about lights while I'm saving to get one. Ill have it within three weeks. I'm a recent amputee who is yet to start seeking re-employment. Weed actually helped me get off fentanyl so.......... I'm probably getting a mars hydro or spider farmer around 2-$300. Phlizon... I'm not sure yet. Doing a lot of research on PAR. Any recommendations for that price range. A 2×4 closet.
MH FC-4000 Evo is a nice flower light for a 2x4.
Thanks. I'll never use it again I don't think. I was told foliar applications work to eliminate powdery mildew. Apparently they also can absorb the nutrients as long as it's not whole milk.
I suggested raising the VPD because it looks to me like the plant is holding water. That is often due to watering too often, but it can also be due to a plant's reduced ability to transpire as much as it could (or should). VPD can be thought of as a growth regulator. Transpiration increases as the VPD increases. When it increases, more nutrients are transported to the leaves and more moisture is released into the atmosphere. When VPD is too low, slow growth and water retention are likely to occur.
Growing isn't only about data. It's also about recognizing what the plant needs and then providing it. There's no better advice than to learn how to read the plants. It's the only way to ease the frustration of endlessly chasing someone else's data.
Reusable grocery bags work well and are cheap af
That's the kind of data I'm looking for. So dropping from 70% to 60% humidity might help, huh? Like 79° 60%??? I shouldn't have any trouble holding that. Thanks
You're welcome.
they do appear to be quite small for 2 months. i've been having some trouble with my present grow but they are still a couple feet tall. i usually move my plants from the dixie cup they start in to a gallon container as soon as they can be (roughly a week after they sprout). last time i used the container types that are usually used for gallon vinegar and windshield washer fluids and this time i used gallon hawaian punch containers. the reason i use these is the way the milk containers are shaped i would have to remove more of the container to make it useful due to the area around the handle.Biggest to smallest: OG KUSH,GLUE,
OG, OG KUSH...... Almost all two months old. All the growth has come in the last 4 days since getting a new beelux, supplemental red spider farmer lights, and cal mag.
. i think as you go you'll learn from others here and will be amazed by what you'll be able to produce. 
