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Thank you very much for the info I like the more mass and faster root growth :) that sounds amazing!!! Cool I wasnt 100% sure if grow times with differ from soil or hydro def good to know. Thats what i figured on the gram a watt thats its more plant genetic base then growing. Now i know for sure ^^ . I dont mind a some extra work if It offers me more return those ladies can have my whole day if they want!I've been doing dwc for 6 or so years and the major plus with hydro is massive and more rapid plant and root growth in veg with hydro. If your girls take 10 weeks to flower in soil, they'll take 10 weeks in hydro. I've found grams per watt to be more strain dependent than growing method. You're not gonna get a gram per watt growing cookies no matter what. The downside is that hydro is more labor intensive with collecting reverse osmosis water to monitoring and correcting your ph and ec.
That looks amazing!!! Here's a curve ball Would i see a better return vegging for 2 months and flowering for 1? Or is that based on plant genetics ?
thank you makes sense ^^You would have a better return since the plants would be much bigger with an extra month of veg. But, you still have to flower for 2ish months to get the best yield, regardless.
You would have a better return since the plants would be much bigger with an extra month of veg. But, you still have to flower for 2ish months to get the best yield, regardless.
Adding to Canndidly's reply, remember to be conscious of multiple dimensions at once. Yield is first about optimizing ALL the factors that go into plant growth, right? First be sure you're optimizing (not necessarily maximizing) everything together and in accordance with your medium. Light (calculate and max your LUMENS and LIGHT DISTRIBUTION-- i leave bulb and spectrum to you), nutrient levels and ratios for veg and flower, root space, water, temp, humidity, and pH--and read up on some pinching/pruning tips. It is only when you have all these factors tight and right that you can accurately decide on the best balance of veg time to rotations per year. For example, a 1000watt hung too high is actually worse than a 600 positioned for maximum plant coverage and minimum stretch. Give yourself some time to find the best balance between veg time and number of rotations. But never skimp on flowering time. The girls will tell you what they want if you tune into them--and of course different strains want to be treated differently. Hell, you know women--each plant wants you to listen to her. But you know all that :)That looks amazing!!! Here's a curve ball Would i see a better return vegging for 2 months and flowering for 1? Or is that based on plant genetics ?
I"ve been growing in soil for 4 years now never had any real issues other then a random herm here and there. Id really like to switch up to hydro maybe dwc set up. Is dwc the same as a flood and drain technique ? What are my pros/cons in hydro to soil?
More yeild ?
Less stress?
Faster nut intake ?
More efficient?
I do feel confident with my grow skill to partake this on but i would really like any other input.
Ill be running 3 1000w, roughly 15-20 plants, big bud(fem) from sensi seed, 1 month veg/ 2 months flower.
p.s. Ive been growing under 600w hps and can pull close to a lb per lamp which i was told is pretty good.
Should i expect to meet a 1.5 to 2lb return on a 1000w lamp?
How likely is it to get the full gram per watt on 1000's?
Thanks for any info or tell me i said something wrong anything will help :)
More yield? YesI"ve been growing in soil for 4 years now never had any real issues other then a random herm here and there. Id really like to switch up to hydro maybe dwc set up. Is dwc the same as a flood and drain technique ? What are my pros/cons in hydro to soil?
More yeild ?
Less stress?
Faster nut intake ?
More efficient?
I do feel confident with my grow skill to partake this on but i would really like any other input.
Ill be running 3 1000w, roughly 15-20 plants, big bud(fem) from sensi seed, 1 month veg/ 2 months flower.
p.s. Ive been growing under 600w hps and can pull close to a lb per lamp which i was told is pretty good.
Should i expect to meet a 1.5 to 2lb return on a 1000w lamp?
How likely is it to get the full gram per watt on 1000's?
Thanks for any info or tell me i said something wrong anything will help :)
ALMOST FORGOT--hydro leaves much less room for mistakes than soil. Remember you have no soil to retain water. The lack of water from power outages or equipment malfunctions will hit you fast and hard. As long as they are checked in on a couple of times a day, and you are willing to deal with constant calibration of the multiple aspects of hydroponic delivery of water with heavy soluble loads through structures that aerate enough but not too much, etc. etc.--then you'll be amazed at what they'll do for you.
I"ve been growing in soil for 4 years now never had any real issues other then a random herm here and there. Id really like to switch up to hydro maybe dwc set up. Is dwc the same as a flood and drain technique ? What are my pros/cons in hydro to soil?
More yeild ?
Less stress?
Faster nut intake ?
More efficient?
I do feel confident with my grow skill to partake this on but i would really like any other input.
Ill be running 3 1000w, roughly 15-20 plants, big bud(fem) from sensi seed, 1 month veg/ 2 months flower.
p.s. Ive been growing under 600w hps and can pull close to a lb per lamp which i was told is pretty good.
Should i expect to meet a 1.5 to 2lb return on a 1000w lamp?
How likely is it to get the full gram per watt on 1000's?
Thanks for any info or tell me i said something wrong anything will help :)
I'd love to hear Junk's thoughts on container size trade-offs...but I'd get the 13 gallon buckets.
Well, it's easier imo if it's in something that you can just transfer over, like root riot or rock wool. Usually if you plan to use hydro, you will grow out a plant in soil (the mom) to take cuts, to root in a medium, that you can just transfer and set in hydraton like Root Riot cubes or rock wool.I'm in the middle of my first major foray into DWC and RDWC. I started with clones from a friend that were all a mixture of different mediums from cocoa, soil to rock wool. All of them, I needed to strip off the old medium, bringing it down to bare roots which then got planted into the net pots. I'll never do it this way again. You'll be way better off starting from a clone or seeds with roots only than stripping it down. I only really lost one plant - even that one I was able to clone and re-grow - but every single one of them ended up losing a chunk of the root mass in the process. Most of them didn't go into shock, but it was a good week - 2 weeks before the roots came back and made it out of the net pots which equates to a lot squandered resources. Then I also battled root rot from the old, dead roots. If you ARE going with DWC - I would definitely start with a plant that isn't in any medium at all.
Yeah, one of the plants I lost, I had put the rock wool too deep and didn't realize that it was keeping the main stem soaked and killed the plant. I had thought it was transplant shock. Yeah, if using rock wool, keep it high in the Hydroton so it doesn't stay soaked.Well, it's easier imo if it's in something that you can just transfer over, like root riot or rock wool. Usually if you plan to use hydro, you will grow out a plant in soil (the mom) to take cuts, to root in a medium, that you can just transfer and set in hydraton like Root Riot cubes or rock wool.
If some were in Rockwool, you don't have to take it out, you can set that right in the net pot/hydraton.
I use root riot cubes personally, but only for cloning. And once you have roots showing, just pop it in the hydraton.
There is no such thing. Something caused it. If they died, something killed them. Negligence is a cause. Also, DWC and RDWC aren't the same. If you have a single (or singular) DWC buckets, there is no water pump. Just an air pump. And the plant will last a while w/out the air pump. You have to fill the bucket every few days at least, so, you'll notice if the air pump died.DWC is also know as Death Without Cause.
I have never had my ph go crazy. It's something I always read about, but ime, it only goes crazy when something else is not right. Root rot will cause that (among other things I avoid) but again, that's negligence, or poor planning...whatever. RO water, nutes, mix, PH, and it's done. Water needs to stay 68-70F. But that isn't difficult.or pH went crazy.
Faster runs, higher yields, and it's pretty straight forward. Any way is fine...but there are benefits to hydro. For me, it's cheaper. There are also benefits to soil...all soil product I get tastes a little better imo. My product is a lil more potent.Why switch?
That isn't true, but even if it was, that's significant. I think what you are getting at is that it will veg faster, so the only benefit is being 10-14 days quicker. I get that. But there is a piece of the puzzle you missing.All you gain is faster veg.
I think this just a mindset. I could just as well say, "Look at all the people using hydro with no problems." If they can do it, I can do it. Overall, my problems with soil have been greater than my issues with hydro. My biggest problem with hydro was getting used to how fast it is. But I'll take that.Look at all the problems people have hydro.
You're making the assumption that people aren't already maxed out on light, or their light bill, or space.Spend the money on another light.
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