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Triacontanol is a long chain (30 carbons i believe) alcohol. Its used to build cuticle wax in plants, and as a hormone (a fatty acyl alcohol ester is a wax).
If there is enough of it--it should form micelles in water and thus be soluble to some degree. So yes--gently heating should work. The answer is no you do not need bacteria in there to get the benefit--steeping in water like a real "tea" should work just fine if all you're looking for is the nutrient content you'd be getting (which is very very miniscule) or for the hormone/antioxidant/etc. content.
Again tho I gotta point out that this stuff might be more trouble than it's worth if we either use too much--or too late into flower. Can definitely be negatively affecting growth.
I'm not sure on the boiling bro, I usually just put it into my bags to steep when I'm making my ACT's.Ok so my plan will be to chop down a healthy handful or two, run it thru a blender or just chop it up good, boil it into a 'tea', then cool and strain it. At that point it will be sterile- having boiled- and should have the Tria in it? I only plan to use this in veg, to stimulate growth, and perhaps adding it the first week of flower.
I'd avoid boiling--gentle heating would be the way to go in my mind. You also my consider making the water 5% by volume of a short chain alcohol--isopropanol or ethanol. This should help to draw some of the tria out and solubilize it.
Definitely would not boil--and I'd remember to reduce this volume by something like 1-2cups to 5 gal before application. You won't want to feed this full strength (unless you're doing it for experimentation).
If you want to experiment, I'd consider adjusting the dosages you're feeding to various plants to see what the effects are.
Okay, so gentle warming, but not over... what? 120 f? Add a little alcohol, do do that before or after warming? If the alcohol evaporated, would it leave the Tria insouble again?
The experiment is to see if/how well it works in ebb n flood with small vegetative plants. Will use 1-2 cups/5gal, so that works out to 5-10 cups for the whole 27 gallon res. How much weight or volume of *fresh* alfalfa per gallon of solute to make a tea strong enough to work?
The melting point is 87C and water boils at ~ 98C. So you wanna get past the melting point for sure.
If it was me I may even consider running this as an alcohol extraction and then diluting the extract down for application. This stuff is not going to want to be very soluble in water. If you go back to our earlier discussion I believe the recipe calls for dissolving the substance into alcohol and then diluting (with the calcium addition, yes?).
You may have trouble directly solubilizing directly into water.
As for how much I'd need a few questions of my own answered first to answer this and those are:
1. What is the mean TRIA content in your native alfalfa species? This would have to come from GC-MS analysis and might vary from place to place and season to season.
2. What is the "correct amount" for a positive effect with cannabis in the first place?
Triacontanol is a long chain (30 carbons i believe) alcohol. Its used to build cuticle wax in plants, and as a hormone (a fatty acyl alcohol ester is a wax).
If there is enough of it--it should form micelles in water and thus be soluble to some degree. So yes--gently heating should work. The answer is no you do not need bacteria in there to get the benefit--steeping in water like a real "tea" should work just fine if all you're looking for is the nutrient content you'd be getting (which is very very miniscule) or for the hormone/antioxidant/etc. content.
Again tho I gotta point out that this stuff might be more trouble than it's worth if we either use too much--or too late into flower. Can definitely be negatively affecting growth.
Seamaiden said:I continue to use alfalfa because I see great vegetative results from it, especially if a plant is struggling.
The tea itself is stupid easy.
Handful of alfalfa hay (I get the sweepings from my local feed shop for free, they even provide me with the trash bag to put 'em in), throw that into a half-gallon or so of warm water, let it steep for 1/2-1hour, strain off and use.
That's it. You can use meal, it's more expensive so I haven't. I actually buy alfalfa pellets (the feed kind) and put those in my beds. This prevents seeds starting, as may occur if using the hay. You can probably make tea from the pellets as well, but I haven't done it (yet!).
Or you guys could just purchase a bottle of Snow Storm Ultra which is a concentrated form of the PGR Triacontanol. It is very cheaply priced.
Wait a tick.....I thought PGR's were bad and made by the devil? hehe
I have one issue, and I think it's pertinent--what's the source alfalfa? I have no way of knowing whether or not the alfalfa I'm getting from the feed store is GMO or not. I want to know, but they can't tell me. I've never seen them offer organic alfalfa, though they offer an amazing smorgasbord of such feed for dogs and cats inside, or other hays. I can't even get them to order me a 5gal bucket or three of feed molasses, though, and apparently A&M is no longer made (alfalfa & molasses, a mix to get sluggish horses hot and to beef up thin ones).Some, not all PGRs- this one is derived from a natural source (alfalfa) and is demonstrated effective- and, no one has fingered triacontanol as potentially harmful unlike so many of the others.
I have one issue, and I think it's pertinent--what's the source alfalfa? I have no way of knowing whether or not the alfalfa I'm getting from the feed store is GMO or not. I want to know, but they can't tell me. I've never seen them offer organic alfalfa, though they offer an amazing smorgasbord of such feed for dogs and cats inside, or other hays. I can't even get them to order me a 5gal bucket or three of feed molasses, though, and apparently A&M is no longer made (alfalfa & molasses, a mix to get sluggish horses hot and to beef up thin ones).
I've a rather wiry hair across my ass about GMOs, and it's only gotten thicker.
If the bomb stuff is fermented alfalfa, let it sit in a damp pile out in the sun to rot some and get the good juice from that. Then make it into ACT. The stuff grows all over the place here as well and my chickens eat it all summer long.
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