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Triacontinol Dosage and Method of Application

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Triacontinol Dosage and Method of Application

Jimster 36 Replies 13,099 Views
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Jimster

Jimster

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#1
I am about to explore the use of Triacontanol and had a few questions for any gurus out there. The strength is 1.5% and I was hoping on using 91% Iso Alcohol, which I'm guessing will suffice for an organic polar/non polar solvent (can't remember at the moment...thought it was polar), or do I need to get Polysorbate20/PEG? I need to make up about 12 Oz of this stuff to cover everything, I'm guessing, although in truth, I' only going to try it on a few to compare results at the end.
So...any dose or concentration is most appreciated!
 
B

Burned Haze

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#3
I would use a brand company (‘premixed “) that already made it soluble for you ( like grow more did ) @ 1ml a gal ( hard to beat rate for 80 bucks for a gal )

Easier, guaranteed and other stuff that’s unwanted in cannabis isn’t there.

* Product Is called grow more: jump start
( here’s a thread about similar question a few weeks ago on THCF )
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Triacontanol

God bless Guano and all the information he shares. Taught me quite a lot about root aphids, found so much information I felt like a git in comparison.
www.thcfarmer.com www.thcfarmer.com
 
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#4
Kot said:
If it's 1.5% I guess it is water soluble.
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I was under the impression that it needed to be dissolved in something like Polysorbate 20, then diluted with water. I'm having problems figuring out the dosage, since it came without dosing info, and online references have been difficult to find.
 
#5
Jimster said:
I was under the impression that it needed to be dissolved in something like Polysorbate 20, then diluted with water. I'm having problems figuring out the dosage, since it came without dosing info, and online references have been difficult to find.
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Usually tria is pure and it needs to be dissolved in polysorbate but sometimes they make it 1-2% and water soluble, just read what it says on your product.

There is info in the internet about dosages. It is generally from one to 15 PPM. In your case 15 PPM would be one gram product into one liter water.
 
#6
Kot said:
Usually tria is pure and it needs to be dissolved in polysorbate but sometimes they make it 1-2% and water soluble, just read what it says on your product.

There is info in the internet about dosages. It is generally from one to 15 PPM. In your case 15 PPM would be one gram product into one liter water.
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Thank you for the info...that is exactly what I needed to know. I got the 1.5% so it can be used without another solvent than water. I'm a bit apprehensive about using it...after 35 years or so I guess it's time to try a few experiments. Thanks again for the conversion and dosage rates!
 
#7
Jimster said:
Thank you for the info...that is exactly what I needed to know. I got the 1.5% so it can be used without another solvent than water. I'm a bit apprehensive about using it...after 35 years or so I guess it's time to try a few experiments. Thanks again for the conversion and dosage rates!
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One last question, that I think I already know, but the TRIA application is a one time treatment, correct? Thank you again for your help.
 
#9
I mixed up the medicine according to your recommendations, and it seemed to dissolve using hot water and a bunch of agitation. My last question, although it is a little late to worry about it, but does the TRIA effects travel thru the plant, or only on the areas that were sprayed? I wasn't too careful at spraying only the plants that I wanted treated, so I wasn't sure if overspray will cause everything to go crazy. In any event, the deed is done... I'm anxious to try it out to see how it affects things. Thank you again for the help!
 
#10
I have a 25ppm mix and have been doing once every 7 days. Only 2 treatments so far, but not really any explosive growth. The only notably different thing I notice is new growth seems to make chlorophyll faster as all the tops get dark green fast and evenly across the canopy. If I wasn't meticulous with my elements, I would suspect a slight nitrate toxicity.
 
#11
Skybound said:
I have a 25ppm mix and have been doing once every 7 days. Only 2 treatments so far, but not really any explosive growth. The only notably different thing I notice is new growth seems to make chlorophyll faster as all the tops get dark green fast and evenly across the canopy. If I wasn't meticulous with my elements, I would suspect a slight nitrate toxicity.
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Alfalfa i think has that. Age Alfalfa so it’s not dry make a good tea. Power to the roots
 
#14
eirI said:
You get the best worms from Michigan and learn lots from North Carolina State
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Red worms easy to care of. It’s their species of Earthworms they are little different. Slow eaters but will like crazy
 
#16
eirI said:
Red worms easy to care of. It’s their species of Earthworms they are little different. Slow eaters but will like crazy
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Anybody from here that is from Raleigh North Carolina or anywhere around Greensboro etc. The most beautiful state Anyone from there knows Angus Barn. The best Steaks don’t need to chew melt in your mouth. North Carolina people are very nice. Below awesome wine cellar.
 
#17
Skybound said:
I already bought triacontanol powder, 98%. It would be pointless to make alfalfa tea, especially since it is not known how much triacontanol the tea will produce.
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That’s potent I would like see what the HPLC reeds
 
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