UCXL13 10 sites 2400 moving watts

[DougsNugs]

Hey guys,

Just starting a thread on our new 10 site Under Current setup. Using Heavy 16 A+B, Prime + Enhancer, Finish, roots accelerator, canna rhizo + zyme, cal mag plus, also just starting using an Earth worm casting and Ancient Forest compost tea with mycos bacteria and hi brix molasses

Foliar feeding once a week with Heavy 16 foliar and Kelp

We're lighting everything with 4 Gavita 600's with a light mover 5.0 on a 12 foot rail

1/4hp Chiller exchanging the epicenter. also replaced all the airstones with single XL micropores

In about a week we will drain the system as low as we can with a pump and then add back pure RO water PH'ed to 5.5 until about an inch or two under the net pots and let them be for a day to flush. Next day we'll add the Heavy 16 bloom A+B, Prime + Enhancer, Finish, and Fire, along with a fresh dose of compost tea.

The strains we're running are Cannatonic, White Fire OG, Tora Bora, MK Ultra, and Cali Orange.

Looking into a PH down doser for the epicenter.. We're using a Nutradip tripmeter at the moment, would that work with a really small pond pump of some kind?

Any thoughts, advice, anything is welcome!

Peace

Here's a few pics so far, we're at day 2 of 12/12 flowering

 

[Seamaiden]

Nice start! Although I find myself wondering about using a 12' rail to move lights. I'm afraid that it won't give the results you're after.

Don't know a thang about UC, but you put up a good post there, deserve some bumpage for the UC cats to see & give opinions. :)

 

[DougsNugs]

New Photo bump.. Thought I'd give you guys a little bit more of the setup.

Cheers!

 

[Amber]

Nice start! Although I find myself wondering about using a 12' rail to move lights. I'm afraid that it won't give the results you're after.

Don't know a thang about UC, but you put up a good post there, deserve some bumpage for the UC cats to see & give opinions. :)

Yeah no doubt. I like your style DougsNugs we have some Epaps over one of our under currents. Tell me more about the cages you have in there. They look to me like the Current Culture cages maybe tweaked a little. Be careful with the sugars in the tea.

 

[Dulce]

Bro, everything you have listed sounds great....all top of the line stuff from the hydro store.......

Except your set up is SEVERLY under lit. Why spend all this dough just to cheap out on lights?? Based on the info you gave, I calculAte around 25 watts PSF. At that wattage your almost better just giving each plant its own t5!
If I was doing UC I would be pushing a minimum of 3000 watts to EACH plant.

 

[Amber]

Quick Q&A response to UC User Regarding Inoculants in Solution
Q-Are organics recommended?

A-Typically it’s the most soluble, mineral based nutes that jive best in water culture. We would recommend using the organics as either a foliar or in small amounts applied directly to the root crown.

Q-I am assuming humic acid, kelp, and the likes, are simply too messy for the cleanliness required in this high-performance system.

A-That’s the issue, aside from the pH issues and other side effects adding these less stable ions into solution can cause.

Q-Do selective inoculants, such as Great White or SOS (http://www.superorganicstimulator.com), have a place in the UC system?

A-Yes, but it’s bacterial products that will tend to do better as they are naturally adapted to colonizing in water. Having said this, fungal inocs are also useful but are best served when introduced to the root crown so rhizoshere colonization can occur.

Q-The reason why I ask is because of the fundamental idea to “run it clean”, which in most cases means “as sterile as possible”.

A-Remember clean doesn’t only mean sterile. You can run inocs and teas but they need to be used in homeopathic doses so as to avoid the side effects of biofilms in the system and on the root zone. It’s this biofilm that can inhibit liquid and gas exchange in the root zone slowing plant metabolism and lending to aenerobic conditions.

Q-Great White has Trichoderma, which keep those roots clean, and Streptomyces to prevent fungal-related infecions. But the problem is the bio residue these organisms produce as they biosynthetize eiher the glycine carrier or fulvic acid. Then there is the 10-14 day water aging period for inoculants, which might not suit more frequent reservoir changes in a high-performance system. SOS, on the other hand, has always run clean in all of the tests done at Garden Indoors

A-Trichoderma and streptomyces are both very over bearing microbes. Either can be used but it’s keeping them from over populating that is the dance. Remember, water culture is hydroponics and not a tea brewer. Tea brewinig is purposely over populating a solution to be diseminated vs. hydroponic solutions which are looking to provide a stable environment for mineral and water assimilation.And agreed, when using teas in heavier doses it does necessiate more nute change out. If SOS is working for you I’d recommend it as a compliment to your nute regime in the UC, but consider a lower dose than recommended.

Q-What would you recommend as far as the inoculant issue is concerned?

A-I would recommend a worm casting tea. (Add two cups to five gallons of water, aerate or stir, strain and then use that liquid at approx 10 mils per gallon in your system) Steeped or aerated worm casting or vermicompost has proven to be the most effective means of providing ecological balance in a water culture setting. The unique nature of red worms intestinal tract makes the likelyhood of disease organisms almost impossible.Closing thought: Avoid adding any input with sugars and carbs into your water culture system, AACT or otherwise. Most out of the bottle/can/tub/bucket inocs have plenty included as a food source for the bacteria so be thoughtful when using.

 

[DougsNugs]

Thanks for the comments. As far as the lighting goes, we will be looking to upgrade to an add a bar trolley kit for next run.. probably go for some gavita 1000s in the middle and the 600s on the outside slanted inwards..

With the hi brix molasses, I just add a splash when I first mix up the tea and let that aerate for 2 days before adding it into the various reservoirs we have going..

More pics to come

 

[Amber]

Whats the pic with the co2 tank next to epicenter. What are the hoses connected to? Whats going on there? Very curious. Thanks

 

[DougsNugs]

The clear vinyl tubing is running to and from the aqua active chiller set to 68 degrees.

The CO2 tank is attached to a regulator which is then attached to a CAP automation CO2 and temp controller which turns on the CO2 only when the room temp is low enough at about 83 degrees.. helps save the tank. . Although we're grabbing a new one about once a week

 

[DougsNugs]

We have a question about B1 complex supplements, which would you say is the winner among them? We just ran through our bottle of the AN organic B1 supplement. Using it a little bit in the foliar spray and a little bit in the compost tea as well.

Thrive alive B or something like AN B52?

Anyone have any experience with a product called sea green hydro? Or anything made by beneficial biologics? They're stuff sounds interesting..

I'm not familiar with epaps? A type of plasma light like the gavitas?

The tomato cages are from Burpees, we've just layed them on their sides over the plants because they didn't seem to fit around the 13 gal pots..

More on the tubes running to the epicenter:

The braided line is the chiller, the smaller clear line is running to a 32 gal roughneck reservoir full of pure RO we use to top off the epicenter

 

[DougsNugs]

Also does anyone run fulvic in their UC?

 

[DougsNugs]

Some more photos from today:

 

[DougsNugs]

We're sitting at about 500 ppm on a .5 scale. Is this appropriate for just starting flowering? All veg nutes at the moment while the ladies get their stretch on the first week of flower..

How high should we go with the ppms in flower? I understand that lower is better, maybe max out at 1000 or so?

Peace

 

[Delerium]

Hey guys,

Just starting a thread on our new 10 site Under Current setup. Using Heavy 16 A+B, Prime + Enhancer, Finish, roots accelerator, canna rhizo + zyme, cal mag plus, also just starting using an Earth worm casting and Ancient Forest compost tea with mycos bacteria and hi brix molasses

Foliar feeding once a week with Heavy 16 foliar and Kelp

We're lighting everything with 4 Gavita 600's with a light mover 5.0 on a 12 foot rail

1/4hp Chiller exchanging the epicenter. also replaced all the airstones with single XL micropores

In about a week we will drain the system as low as we can with a pump and then add back pure RO water PH'ed to 5.5 until about an inch or two under the net pots and let them be for a day to flush. Next day we'll add the Heavy 16 bloom A+B, Prime + Enhancer, Finish, and Fire, along with a fresh dose of compost tea.

The strains we're running are Cannatonic, White Fire OG, Tora Bora, MK Ultra, and Cali Orange.

Looking into a PH down doser for the epicenter.. We're using a Nutradip tripmeter at the moment, would that work with a really small pond pump of some kind?

Any thoughts, advice, anything is welcome!

Peace

Here's a few pics so far, we're at day 2 of 12/12 flowering

Cali O Big huge flowers nice buzz, Tora Bora( not a heavy yielder, keep that for your private stash that was my shit)
I miss my light movers, I would only move the rail 2x the width or length of the fixture just so you don't have any hot spots or your going to have to speed it up.
Add more fixture on a slave extension.
http://agramover.com/technology_services_003.htm Guy in an old engineer and his shit rocks. I run his smaller unit over my moms still.
I was running two of his Hercules systems over my flower until I fucked up with safety cable I made.
The safety cable had gotten wrapped around the extension arm and took one rail out of square and the whole system crash on the plants.
Only damaged 2 plants out 60 cuz they were just put into flower (No glass in the fixtures thank goodness and not one lamp broke)
Thank goodness I was in the garage, I was like wtf was that. Sounded like an elephant ran through my room.

this is your doser for PH

I have the intellidoser that does all my nutes and ph, but if your only looking for ph that is the one

I wouldn't bother with the solenoids.
Use the peri pump tried solenoids, you can keep them, the peristaltics are the only wtg

 

[Delerium]

Quick Q&A response to UC User Regarding Inoculants in Solution
Q-Are organics recommended?

A-Typically it’s the most soluble, mineral based nutes that jive best in water culture. We would recommend using the organics as either a foliar or in small amounts applied directly to the root crown.

Q-I am assuming humic acid, kelp, and the likes, are simply too messy for the cleanliness required in this high-performance system.

A-That’s the issue, aside from the pH issues and other side effects adding these less stable ions into solution can cause.

Q-Do selective inoculants, such as Great White or SOS (http://www.superorganicstimulator.com), have a place in the UC system?

A-Yes, but it’s bacterial products that will tend to do better as they are naturally adapted to colonizing in water. Having said this, fungal inocs are also useful but are best served when introduced to the root crown so rhizoshere colonization can occur.

Q-The reason why I ask is because of the fundamental idea to “run it clean”, which in most cases means “as sterile as possible”.

A-Remember clean doesn’t only mean sterile. You can run inocs and teas but they need to be used in homeopathic doses so as to avoid the side effects of biofilms in the system and on the root zone. It’s this biofilm that can inhibit liquid and gas exchange in the root zone slowing plant metabolism and lending to aenerobic conditions.

Q-Great White has Trichoderma, which keep those roots clean, and Streptomyces to prevent fungal-related infecions. But the problem is the bio residue these organisms produce as they biosynthetize eiher the glycine carrier or fulvic acid. Then there is the 10-14 day water aging period for inoculants, which might not suit more frequent reservoir changes in a high-performance system. SOS, on the other hand, has always run clean in all of the tests done at Garden Indoors

A-Trichoderma and streptomyces are both very over bearing microbes. Either can be used but it’s keeping them from over populating that is the dance. Remember, water culture is hydroponics and not a tea brewer. Tea brewinig is purposely over populating a solution to be diseminated vs. hydroponic solutions which are looking to provide a stable environment for mineral and water assimilation.And agreed, when using teas in heavier doses it does necessiate more nute change out. If SOS is working for you I’d recommend it as a compliment to your nute regime in the UC, but consider a lower dose than recommended.

Q-What would you recommend as far as the inoculant issue is concerned?

A-I would recommend a worm casting tea. (Add two cups to five gallons of water, aerate or stir, strain and then use that liquid at approx 10 mils per gallon in your system) Steeped or aerated worm casting or vermicompost has proven to be the most effective means of providing ecological balance in a water culture setting. The unique nature of red worms intestinal tract makes the likelyhood of disease organisms almost impossible.Closing thought: Avoid adding any input with sugars and carbs into your water culture system, AACT or otherwise. Most out of the bottle/can/tub/bucket inocs have plenty included as a food source for the bacteria so be thoughtful when using.

Evening Amber, I was told you should only use teas for deficiencies/problems you might come across when using UC, as apposed to using it as a normal cousre of nutrient regiment.
Any words of advice would be awesome on that.

 

[Delerium]

Also does anyone run fulvic in their UC?

I second that question. Been avoiding using Liquid Karma (humic) scared to put anything dark into the UC.
Next UC i'm gonna run Canna Aqua full line, see how that plays out.

 

[DougsNugs]

Thanks a lot for the links Delerium, those light movers look badass man, maybe pick up one of those fan mounts in the near future

Ph doesn't seem like an immediate problem, although that intellidoser of yours sounds like a natural upgrade for next go round

Since reading ambers advice, we've cut out any tea in the Rez..

We will start doing 120ml shots of the tea at the root crown about every 2 days or so.. More concentrated tea too, only about a gallon of water for each batch

 

[Amber]

Evening Amber, I was told you should only use teas for deficiencies/problems you might come across when using UC, as apposed to using it as a normal cousre of nutrient regiment.
Any words of advice would be awesome on that.

I have heard that also but I gotta tell ya we use it more ofter than not. We dont normally put teas in the system unless there is a root problem. What we do normally is just crown feed with the tea. In theory keeping it out of our brew and just in the top of the root zone.

 

[Delerium]

I have heard that also but I gotta tell ya we use it more ofter than not. We dont normally put teas in the system unless there is a root problem. What we do normally is just crown feed with the tea. In theory keeping it out of our brew and just in the top of the root zone.

How often and amount? Just been messing with the UC for a minute. What about film build up.Used teas in Promix.

 

[Amber]

Weekly and just a small amount not enough to get too much run off into the system I use like a cup maybe a cup and half. 300 ml or so.