Usb Microscope Pics. Eggs? Stomata? Russets? None? All?

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Allan419

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Got a link for the scope you bought?
Those are some nice pics.

Here are some pics of what some household chemicals (at full strength) did to the leaves in my original post.

Isopropyl 91%: If those are eggs, which would be a bit odd as they are on both top and bottom sides of the leaf, then I have to guess they have been killed. They were mostly all clear before the application.
Top of leaf:
Thu Apr 14 13 37 40
Thu Apr 14 13 39 34


Hydrogen Peroxide. I do believe I see a couple of dead as hell russets! Not a lot of plant tissue destruction. I expected more.
Bottom of leaf:

Thu Apr 14 13 46 10


Top of leaf. Odd spot for eggs if that's what they are.
Thu Apr 14 13 51 24


Bleach at full strength. LOL. That will kill them! I'd suggest not spraying bleach on plants of course but it looks like it will fry the hell out of bad guys on non plant surfaces. It does leave a residue that should be cleaned up.
Thu Apr 14 14 00 20


Vinegar at full strength. Eggs (maybe) are no longer clear whatever that means. I assume they have to be dead.
Bottom of leaf:
Thu Apr 14 14 16 24


Top of leaf:
Thu Apr 14 14 13 00


Kind of interesting I think. I'm going to thin these chems down to a 10% solution and apply them to leaves of the last remaining plant I have.

I'd love to figure out how to save this last plant because it's a cross between Sugar Black Rose and Kandy Kush and is pretty sweet. She needs some water so I plan on 1/2 well water (8.2pH and 250 ppm hardness) and 1/2 RO, pH'd to 6.5, no nutes, 325mg aspirin per gal, 2x pot soil volume of water.

I don't know why there are two extra repeat pics at the end of this post but I can't seem to delete them. User malfunction...

Peace.
 
Thu Apr 14 13 37 40
Thu Apr 14 13 39 34
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ken dog

ken dog

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Does it seem odd to you that those eggs, if they are in fact eggs, are on the top side of the leaves?

Not at all... But if you have new information, I will be glad to listen.
.

Fair use excerpt:

Eggs are round and colorless to white (Kay, 1986). The eggs are laid on leaves and stems of plants. Both males and females hatch in 2.3 days.
 
ken dog

ken dog

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But hey, there is probably a difference between tomato russet mites, and hemp russet mites.

You've probably got as good a handle on this as anyone... I know that you tried Azamax, and your ladies were still alive... And then you tried Bayer imed as well?
I would have to go with everything is dead now, and regarding your soil... I'd probably end up putting it in the oven and then inoculating the soil with beneficials.
 
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Allan419

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But hey, there is probably a difference between tomato russet mites, and hemp russet mites.

You've probably got as good a handle on this as anyone... I know that you tried Azamax, and your ladies were still alive... And then you tried Bayer imed as well?
I would have to go with everything is dead now, and regarding your soil... I'd probably end up putting it in the oven and then inoculating the soil with beneficials.

I stand corrected on the egg deal. The cyclamen and broad mite eggs are elliptical and the russet's are round and generally clear.

I was unable to locate any inf. that says russet mites will lay eggs on the upper sides of leaves but I did read the will lay them on stems and petioles so hey, why not the top side as well. The broads and cyclamen seem to prefer the underside though from what I've been reading.

I used Azamax a few times over a week then washed them down and used Bayer Advanced Three-In-One miticide. (Imidacloprid - 0.47% Tau-Fluvalinate - 0.61% Tebuconazole - 0.65% )
 
ken dog

ken dog

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Hopefully you got them all, and hopefully you will find a solution so that you can keep the dirt you've been working on for all these years.
 
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Allan419

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Hopefully you got them all, and hopefully you will find a solution so that you can keep the dirt you've been working on for all these years.

This battle is a work in progress to say the least. The more I learn the less I know...

I'm feeling somewhat confident that a good heavy flush and soak of the soil with 130F water should do the killing work and leave some beneficials intact. I'm basing this on all of the heat treatment stuff I have read. Apparently these mites are pretty sensitive to heat and lots of folks and some studies say a 120F hot room for an hour will kill them. It seems logical that a good long 130F soak should do the same. Thanks and Peace.
 
A

Allan419

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Hopefully you got them all, and hopefully you will find a solution so that you can keep the dirt you've been working on for all these years.

I found the quote below on a University AG site. I also managed to find a lot of agreement on Google Scholar (thanks for that lead to academia Seamaiden ) That 130F-140F wet heat treatments will kill off insects, eggs, and many unwanted pathogens but will leave most of the the beneficial microorganisms intact.
I learn something new every day. If I don't, I am not paying attention.

"In the horticulture industry, soil technicians prefer using aerated steam at a temperature of 140 degree Fahrenheit for 30 minutes to treat propagation soil. Because higher temperatures (180 degrees Fahrenheit) kill all microorganisms, diseases may spread very rapidly with the absence of their natural enemies. On the other hand, when soil is treated with aerated steam at 140 degrees Fahrenheit, most of the beneficial microorganisms survive. Their presence stops or slows the growth of plant diseases."

So, it would appear my slow flush (takes about an hour and a half) of 3x the pot volume with 135F should kill the nasties and preserve many of the beneficials. Cool. Very cool.

I also learned that my method is called pasteurization, not sterilization.

Peace and Good Health!
 
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Dewd

Dewd

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You need to go through the fun ID pix thread. I think I stickied it. I believe we've got some farmers who've eradicated russets without using the really bad acaricides/miticides.
What is this "fun ID pix" thread.
I haven't tried to search it yet. Sorry.
I will search it after I finish reading this thread
Thanks
 
Dewd

Dewd

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I found the quote below on a University AG site. I also managed to find a lot of agreement on Google Scholar (thanks for that lead to academia Seamaiden ) That 130F-140F wet heat treatments will kill off insects, eggs, and many unwanted pathogens but will leave most of the the beneficial microorganisms intact.
I learn something new every day. If I don't, I am not paying attention.

"In the horticulture industry, soil technicians prefer using aerated steam at a temperature of 140 degree Fahrenheit for 30 minutes to treat propagation soil. Because higher temperatures (180 degrees Fahrenheit) kill all microorganisms, diseases may spread very rapidly with the absence of their natural enemies. On the other hand, when soil is treated with aerated steam at 140 degrees Fahrenheit, most of the beneficial microorganisms survive. Their presence stops or slows the growth of plant diseases."

So, it would appear my slow flush (takes about an hour and a half) of 3x the pot volume with 135F should kill the nasties and preserve many of the beneficials. Cool. Very cool.

I also learned that my method is called pasteurization, not sterilization.

Peace and Good Health!
Did you ever get rid of your mites???
 
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