USHIO HiLUX GRO Metal Halide MH lamp w/ Lumatek digital ballast

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snowkitty

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Recently went to purchase a metal halide MH bulb for vegetative growth under a vertizontal reflector. I requested a Hortilux Blue bulb because my research and the forum buzz indicated it was the top-of-the line bulb. My hydro guy asked if I planned to use a digital ballast and told me there is a known incompatibility between Hortilux bulbs and the Lumatek ballasts.

Snowkitty uses Lumatek digital ballasts in her garden.

He had several customers have Hortilux Blue bulbs burn out on Lumatek ballasts. He said that the manufacturers were in discussion and Lumatek specifically recommended a USHIO bulb as compatible with their ballast. The recommended lamp is the HiLux Gro Super MH / Conversion AMH-1000 Opti-Blue bulb. I was really hesitant to leave the store with anything other than my intended purchase…and I drove 2 hours to get there…so I grilled him about the specifics. He said he would never normally recommend a conversion bulb, but that he had lots of customers running this combination successfully and he knows it works.

German manufacturer USHIO distributes their HiLUX GRO lamps in the U.S. through Hydrofarm.

The good news is that the HiLUX GRO is a little cheaper than the Hortilux Blue ($120 vs $220 MSRP). In other good news, I saw ograskal post that he was trying out the HiLUX GRO and that it supposedly puts out more Lumens than Hortilux. I haven’t been able to find a lot else out about them. But the whole Lumatek / Hortilux incompatability issue seems to be true and I will make a second post below with supporting information about that. I checked with a second hydro store and they also strongly warned me away from the Hortilux/Lumatek combination.

Does anyone have any more information or experience with the USHIO lamp?
Spec sheet here:
 
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snowkitty

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Here’s a THCFarmer thread where people mention the long-standing Hortilux 600W incompatibility and call for recalls from Lumatek:

This was posted on the 420Mag forum on 1/9/2009 by a gardener who was having problems with Lumatek ballasts repeatedly burning out his bulbs after a week. The gardener does not mention which brand bulb in particular he lost to the Lumatek ballast. The gardener feels that the Lumatek owner “accepts most good bulbs won’t work” with the Lumatek ballast:
My name is Jason and I am the founder of Lumatek Electronic ballasts. We try to stay away from these forums but I think this is important. Some customers are currently experiencing problems when using some 600 watt lamps. I do want to point out that the Hortilux Solarmax Grolux issue applies to ALL brand of electronic ballasts.

The lumatek ballast is a true Eballast. It has a micro processor cpu. This cpu allows the ballast to make adjustments according to the lamp that is being used. A eballast can compensate for degrading bulbs and slight power fluctuations. It can also sense the exact specifications of the lamps it is using. the Lumatek ballast is up to 27% brighter than a core and coil ballast. We do have one problem with this technology the cpu can not detect the lamp until AFTER the initial ignition. Once the bulb is lit the ballast can then take over and drive the bulb to its exact specifications. Industry specifications for a 600 watt hps lamp call for a 4000volt ignition pulse. This is what Lumatek and all other digital ballast use for a starting voltage. Hortilux ignition used to be 2000-3000 volts even though this is less then the ignition pulse of the Lumatek we did not experience any problems with the Hortilux I have lots of customers with Hortilux lamps that are over a year old However about 6 months ago we started to notice an increase in Hortilux failures. We also noticed that the font of the text printed at the base of the bulb had changed. When we tested this lamp we found that the ignition range was lowered to 1500 volts. These new Hortilux lamps are different then the ones we originally designed the ballast with and have a higher frailer rate. The problems that customers are having are NOT a ballast problem they are a bulb problem the Hortilux 600 watt is not designed to industry specifications regarding ignition pulse. Furthermore it is also manufactured with a special gas in the arc tube that no other lamp maker in the world uses. The Hortilux lamp design is unique. We are currently adapting our ballast for this bulb it may require a switch to lower the ignition pulse for Hortilux.
Solarmax and Growlux lamps are the opposite problem these lamps require a 5000-6000 volt ignition pulse Again the standard ignition for a 600 is 4000 volts. The Lumtek ballast can light these bulbs with the 4K pulse for a while however over time the lamps degrade and they require more and more voltage to start after a few months the bulbs will not ignite in any digital ballast.​
Source: http://www.420magazine.com/forums/g...atek-digital-more-trouble-than-its-worth.html


This was posted by Life Light at the BGHydro forum in response to a user asking if a Galaxy ballast could be used with a 400W Hortilux Blue bulb.

The other problem is that you have a certain type of electronic ballast. The particular ballast you have puts out 30,000-45,000 HZ, and Hortilux lamps, Sunmaster, Grolux, Solarmax and all the other brands of lamps were designed for 60HZ standard core and coil ballasts. A 60 HZ lamp was never intended to have 30,000 HZ flowing over its components. That's why the lamps are burning out on the electronic ballasts.

What you're going to need is a pulse start metal halide lamp that can accomodate the HZ your system puts out.
Source: http://forums.bghydro.com/archive/index.php/t-353.html
 
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snowkitty

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Digital Ballasts – The Definitive Test from GroWell Hydroponics

Here is some magnetic vs. e-ballast testing data...

http://www.growell.co.uk/pr/57/Digital-Lights-The-Definitive-Test.html

Digital Ballasts – The Definitive Test

We’ve heard it all about digital ballasts – from ridiculous performance claims to unachievable physics, there seems no end to the fanciful claims of some manufacturers. The list of so called experts who have added their 2p to the digital ballasts debate seems to grow by the day, so in search of some definitive answers we have decided to carry out some tests.

Background

In order to understand our test results, you first need to fully understand the mechanics of how a ballast and lamp work.

High Intensity Lamps such as the Sodium and Metal Halide lamps that are used in grow lights need a ballast to regulate the power supplied to them. Without a ballast to control the power to the lamp, it would simply draw massive amounts of power and instantly fail. This is why you need to match your 600 Watt Lamp with a 600 Watt Ballast – so that the right level of power is supplied to the lamp and that the lamp itself is not damaged.

HID Lamps have a band of operation at which they will perform to their optimum level, the gases within the lamp will ignite correctly (providing the intended colour of light) and no unnecessary damage is caused to the lamp. In a 600 Watt Sodium Lamp for example, this range is from 580-660 Watts. Any further power to the lamp and you risk damage and the colour rendition from the lamp will not be as intended. You may achieve higher overall light output from lamps that are overrun above this safe level, but it will be expensive both in terms of electricity used and the need to replace your lamps more often. It is therefore very important to provide consistent power to your lamp within the safe range of operation for that lamp.

How traditional (magnetic) ballasts work

You may have heard a traditional ballast referred to as “magnetic” or “core and coil”. This is because a traditional ballast regulates power to your lamps by means of a coiled wire around a metal core. This creates a magnetic field (exactly like an electro magnet) which restricts the power allowed to reach the lamp. In very basic terms, the ballast is designed to balance against the pull of the lamp so that the correct level of power ends up being supplied. This method has worked very well for a very long time, but there are a number of flaws in the design.

To accurately regulate the power to the lamp, the ballast is designed on the assumption that the input power will always be constant. In reality this is not the case. Everyone knows that UK mains power is supposed to be 240 Volts, but in truth this can range from between 215-260 Volts depending on your geographic location, the time of day or even how many lights you have on the same circuit. What this means is that your traditional ballast (which is designed to provide 600 Watts to your lamp when it has a constant supply of 240 Volts) will actually supply varying levels of power to your lamp depending on the incoming supply. This is bad for the lamp (as it will degrade faster) and is also bad for your plants as they could be missing out on valuable light.

Another drawback of magnetic ballasts is that over time they will become less and less efficient and supplying the right power to your lamp. They will draw more power (costing you more on your bill) and will not correctly regulate the power to your lamp (meaning that you may have to replace you lamps more frequently).

How digital (electronic) ballasts work

The purpose of an electronic ballast is exactly the same as a traditional ballast – to regulate the power to the lamp. The way in which it does this is very different though. Rather than pulling against the draw of the lamp, an electronic ballast regulates the power supplied to the lamp via circuitboards and microprocessors. In practice what this means is that they supply exactly the desired power to the lamp (in the case of the Lumatek ballasts exactly 600 Watts to a 600 Watt Lamp). There is no loss of efficiency over time either – a 5 year old Lumatek will still supply exactly 600 Watts to the lamp just as a new unit would as it will not lose efficiency over time like a magnetic ballast will. This means that your lamps will always provide the correct colour and will last longer thanks to consistent supply well within its safe range of operation.

Electronic ballasts are extremely efficient. In our tests, the Lumatek ballast “lost” very little power between the wall and the lamp. The Watts of electricity drawn at the wall for a Lumatek 600 Watt ballast is 634 Watts – meaning that just 34 Watts are lost between the wall and the lamp. On our magnetic ballast tests, much more power was being consumed (especially with the older ballast) and the electricity bills associated with using these units would have been considerably higher than the equivalent electronic unit. Typically, a brand new magnetic ballast supplying the exact same 600 Watts to the lamp would “lose” between 50-60 Watts between the wall and lamp in the form of heat, noise and vibration. This amount of ”lost” power increases as the magnetic ballast ages.

Electronic ballasts also compensate for fluctuations in the supply – so unlike the magnetic ballast where light output can vary depending on the incoming voltage, the Lumatek will stay consistent no matter what happens with the supply. Your lamp output will always remain the same no matter what time of day or where in the country you use your light.

Increased Lamp Efficiency

Digital ballasts aren’t just more efficient at regulating the power to the lamp – Lumatek claim that they also operate your lamps in a more efficient way than a magnetic ballast and actually achieve a higher lumen output per watt.

A traditional magnetic ballast turns your lamp on and off 50-60 times per second whilst a digital ballast turns your lamp on and off approx 40,000 times per second. Lumatek claim that this high frequency lighting excites the gases in the lamp more efficiently and produces more Lumens per watt. At 50-60 times per second the amount of power the ballast provides the lamp (lamp power) is directly proportional to the amount of light it produces i.e one magnetic ballast providing 600w to the lamp will produce exactly the same light output as another that provides 600w lamp power. This is not the case with the lumatek ballast. For the same lamp power provided to the lamp the Lumatek increases efficiency by approx 5%. Combined with the better power management this gives efficiency gains by the Lumatek in the 10-20% range over magnetics (depending on voltage). At the time of writing, we have not been able to independently verify this additional lamp efficiency data, but given that all of their other claims have stood up to our tests with regard to power management then we have very little reason to doubt that this is also true.

To see all of our test results in an easy to read and easy to understand table by downloading our datasheet pdf here.
 
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Tripod

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Hello snowkitty . I'm not sure if this helps you or not but its from Thom at Lumatek . I was considering buying one and asked zzzlumatek which bulbs worked best in their ballasts "As for bulbs,
The wattage makes a difference,
For 400.... any bulb works great
600 - Ushio or plantastar work the best, avoid hortilux
1000 - plantastar, sunmaster or hortilux seem the most reliable
Thanks
Thom"
 
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Nuglover

Guest
I've had 2 lumatek 600w HPS and I won't own another(2 went out in less than 24 hours). I use a Ushio 600w HPS bulb and I love it. Been using it now for about 9 months and it rocks...and I'm not even using a E-ballast.
 
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wholelottasmoke

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What about newbies?

Lots of great info here, but can a newbie use a digital ballast too? Seems to me that this might be more complicated than I'm ready to deal with. At the same time, the idea of an efficient system right from the start is cool too.

Any ideas?
 
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snowkitty

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Welcome, wholelottasmoke. I got digital ballasts as a newbie and they have been a breeze to use so far. I don't think there is anything complicated about them. Go for it.
 
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been

Guest
Where you at SK? How's it working out for you. Help a brother out over here. :/
 
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snowkitty

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Been, your Lumatek is popping your bulbs? What kind of bulbs are you using now?

Like I said in my PM, my Ushio is going on 6 months of 18 hours a day with no problems. But I have only purchased and installed one so I can't say anything statistically about their performance.
 
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snowkitty

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Also, go to a good hydro shop to make the purchase if there is one near you. I drive over 2 hours to visit a certain one in a major metropolitan area because they can talk shop about bulbs and I know for a fact that he's swapped out blown Hortilux when people had ballast issues. I'd rather pay $10 more for the bulb and my gas instead of going with the lowest online retailer in that case, y'know?
 
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been

Guest
Been, your Lumatek is popping your bulbs? What kind of bulbs are you using now?

Like I said in my PM, my Ushio is going on 6 months of 18 hours a day with no problems. But I have only purchased and installed one so I can't say anything statistically about their performance.

Also, go to a good hydro shop to make the purchase if there is one near you. I drive over 2 hours to visit a certain one in a major metropolitan area because they can talk shop about bulbs and I know for a fact that he's swapped out blown Hortilux when people had ballast issues. I'd rather pay $10 more for the bulb and my gas instead of going with the lowest online retailer in that case, y'know?

It was just a cheap bulb that had me down. :cool0041:
 
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Redskywalker

Premium Member
Supporter
297
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I use Ushio they rock! Altho Im using oldskool ballasts, but my buddy uses them in digital wth no prblms. Plus if any of my bulbs burnout wthin the 1st yr my hydrostore guy gives me a new one, no questions asked lol
 
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Rolln J

Guest
heres my issue with having to use conversion bulbs with digi ballasts - they are more expensive for less lumens - 1000 mh conversion is usually way less initial lumens then a reg 1000 watt mh...
 
justiceman

justiceman

2,718
263
Rollin J that is definitely true for most lamps, but I just checked out the Ushio opti blue and the lumens for the 1000w are pretty solid(109,000) in comparison to other normal MH.
 
Aligee

Aligee

3,804
263
Ushio mh and hps w/ two dimmable 600w lumitecs is turning out nice nuggetry down yander!!! I highly recommend,,
aligee!*
 
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Rolln J

Guest
Rollin J that is definitely true for most lamps, but I just checked out the Ushio opti blue and the lumens for the 1000w are pretty solid(109,000) in comparison to other normal MH.


the mh bulb I use is 118,000 initial lumens - about a 9% difference in lumens and cost me 25% less then the ushio...

lol YES I am a miser - but all that shit adds up
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

2,126
263
Wish I seen this thread before I just blew out my Hortilux.... oh well live n learn

TOC

old info on here
both the ushio and eye super hps are made to fire on digital ballasts
still not truly "digital compatable" but alot better than before
 

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