Vpd And Running A Small Perpetual Harvest!

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MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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You know, im not for sure why you would want to follow the vpd the last 2 weeks. I be honest, cause I dont know benefits. I deff dont have a PhD.
But I know I just did... And I also on top of that, ran my buckets dry the last week and made all my leaves that were left die and fall off. I then cut the branches off the plant and hung them for 14 days at 60* and 63Rh. down from 65RH last week. If over 60% rh causes bud rot, then why do we dry out plants at 63% rh for 14 days with HARDLY any air flow????? just saying...
Oh by the way, I didnt have to cure, it was perfectly dried. A lil advice a fellow farmer gave me here and it was spot on! You actually start the drying process while the plant is still alive...

Maybe, just a guess, that when I run my buckets dry, but have 60 rh it drys from the roots up, and from the inside out, EXACTLY WHAT CURING DOES...
See it all goes together for me. I wouldnt run over 50% if your room isnt dialed enough to combat spikes. Mater fact vpd is for dialed in room IMO

Excellent advice and i concur


I dont see vpd being a good thing for perpetual.. I would go with 50% IMO
Yep, its freaking expensive to get it set up right. I try to take a couple weeks worth of thought before getting on amazon.. But I promise you, when you do get to run vpd, you will be sold. Is there a chance for mold, yes most deff, but it requires more than just higher rh. Ive always been one to push the envelope. I went straight to hydro, knowing that everyone was saying, Dont do it, you will get mold.. lol ok I made a joke there... My point beiung that a lot of ppl said, i was stupid to try hydro first, and I would fail miserably. And that was after dropping 800 on a system and other equipment..
Then it was dont run a live res..
Wrong, it worked out great.
Then it was don't run over 50% rh in flower
My answer,,, Hey haters, you were wrong ,,, AGAIN...

So maybe, we should stop telling ppl that THEY CAN'T, and instead tell then, THEY CAN...
That is what is wrong with this world these days, we changing into sissys that play it safe.
Hell my mailman just left a note in my mail box, requesting that I move my mail box off my porch, so the mail man doesnt have to walk up steps, you know, the new trips, slips, and falls protocol... smh...
We are men.
We choose to go to the Moon! ...
We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard; because that goal will serve to organize and measure the best of our energies and skills, because that challenge is one that we are willing to accept, one we are unwilling to postpone, and one we intend to win....
On September 12, 1962, President Kennedy...
Thats the motto my parents instilled in me...
I dont use vpd cause its easy, i do it cause i want to go to the moon :)

That is a fair assessment, and I follow that, except before c02 my temps were 74 and 65% rh. But im going 75% rh in veg and first 3 weeks of flower with my c02 now. So I put my money where my mouth is...
Hopefully I dont get smacked in it :)


Wouldn't it be better for the additional transpiration that high light levels and co2 offer to have a less humid environment to promote said transpiration?

And I am only talking flowering here. I actually don't mind a little higher humidity in my veg tent with the seedlings along side the larger teens it definitely makes happier plants.

I tend to slow the exhaust fan and let the temps and rh climb a bit.
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
Wouldn't it be better for the additional transpiration that high light levels and co2 offer to have a less humid environment to promote said transpiration?

And I am only talking flowering here. I actually don't mind a little higher humidity in my veg tent with the seedlings along side the larger teens it definitely makes happier plants.

I tend to slow the exhaust fan and let the temps and rh climb a bit.
Honestly I dont know. Im still evaluating things for myself. I guess my first though, is , would a less humid enviro promote transpiration... This article backs up your thoughts...


Transpiration - Factors Affecting Rates of Transpiration
PLANT PARAMETERS – These plant parameters help plants control rates of transpiration by serving as forms of resistance to water movement out of the plant.

Txt-StomataAreTheOnlyWay-300.gif

Txt-DidYouKnowAcreCorn-250.gif

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Stomata – Stomata are pores in the leaf that allow gas exchange where water vapor leaves the plant and carbon dioxide enters. Special cells called guard cells control each pore’s opening or closing. When stomata are open, transpiration rates increase; when they are closed, transpiration rates decrease.

Boundary layer – The boundary layer is a thin layer of still air hugging the surface of the leaf. This layer of air is not moving. For transpiration to occur, water vapor leaving the stomata must diffuse through this motionless layer to reach the atmosphere where the water vapor will be removed by moving air. The larger the boundary layer, the slower the rates of transpiration.

Plants can alter the size of their boundary layers around leaves through a variety of structural features. Leaves that possess many hairs or pubescence will have larger boundary layers; the hairs serve as mini-wind breaks by increasing the layer of still air around the leaf surface and slowing transpiration rates. Some plants possess stomata that are sunken into the leaf surface, dramatically increasing the boundary layer and slowing transpiration. Boundary layers increase as leaf size increases, reducing rates of transpiration as well. For example, plants from desert climates often have small leaves so that their small boundary layers will help cool the leaf with higher rates of transpiration.

Cuticle – The cuticle is the waxy layer present on all above-ground tissue of a plant and serves as a barrier to water movement out of a leaf. Because the cuticle is made of wax, it is very hydrophobic or ‘water-repelling’; therefore, water does not move through it very easily. The thicker the cuticle layer on a leaf surface, the slower the transpiration rate. Cuticle thickness varies widely among plant species. In general, plants from hot, dry climates have thicker cuticles than plants from cool, moist climates. In addition, leaves that develop under direct sunlight will have much thicker cuticles than leaves that develop under shade conditions.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS – Some environmental conditions create the driving force for movement of water out of the plant. Others alter the plant’s ability to control water loss.

Txt-DrierAtmosphere-300.gif


Txt-WarmerAir-300.gif


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Txt-WindierConditions-300.gif


Relative humidity – Relative humidity (RH) is the amount of water vapor in the air compared to the amount of water vapor that air could hold at a given temperature. A hydrated leaf would have a RH near 100%, just as the atmosphere on a rainy day would have. Any reduction in water in the atmosphere creates a gradient for water to move from the leaf to the atmosphere. The lower the RH, the less moist the atmosphere and thus, the greater the driving force for transpiration. When RH is high, the atmosphere contains more moisture, reducing the driving force for transpiration.

Temperature – Temperature greatly influences the magnitude of the driving force for water movement out of a plant rather than having a direct effect on stomata. As temperature increases, the water holding capacity of that air increases sharply. The amount of water does not change, just the ability of that air to hold water. Because warmer air can hold more water, its relative humidity is less than the same air sample at a lower temperature, or it is ‘drier air’. Because cooler air holds less water, its relative humidity increases or it is ‘moister air’. Therefore, warmer air will increase the driving force for transpiration and cooler air will decrease the driving force for transpiration.

Soil water – The source of water for transpiration out of the plant comes from the soil. Plants with adequate soil moisture will normally transpire at high rates because the soil provides the water to move through the plant. Plants cannot continue to transpire without wilting if the soil is very dry because the water in the xylem that moves out through the leaves is not being replaced by the soil water. This condition causes the leaf to lose turgor or firmness, and the stomata to close. If this loss of turgor continues throughout the plant, the plant will wilt.

Light – Stomata are triggered to open in the light so that carbon dioxide is available for the light-dependent process of photosynthesis. Stomata are closed in the dark in most plants. Very low levels of light at dawn can cause stomata to open so they can access carbon dioxide for photosynthesis as soon as the sun hits their leaves. Stomata are most sensitive to blue light, the light predominating at sunrise.

Wind – Wind can alter rates of transpiration by removing the boundary layer, that still layer of water vapor hugging the surface of leaves. Wind increases the movement of water from the leaf surface when it reduces the boundary layer, because the path for water to reach the atmosphere is shorter.
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
another good article.....


Humidity can be the most difficult environment factor to control in greenhouses. Even the most sophisticated environmental control equipment cannot perfectly control the humidity level in greenhouses. Humidity levels fluctuate with change in air temperature and plants are constantly transpiring, which adds water vapor to the air. In the northern climatic areas, these challenges are multiplied by many factors, of which the drier, outdoor air that is too cold to perform air exchanges. Humid air directly contributes to problems such as foliar and root diseases, slow drying of the growing medium, plant stress, loss of quality, loss in yields, etc. Therefore more pesticides are needed for disease control and plants tend to have weak, stretched growth making the plant less desirable.

If the humidity is too low, plant growth is often compromised as crops take much longer to obtain the saleable size. Also lower leaves often drop off, growth is hard, and overall quality is not very good. Whether the humidity is too high or too low, the loss of quality reduces the selling price of crops and increases production costs, both of which reduce profits.

Measuring water loss from the plant: Humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air. The maximum amount of water vapor held by the air is dependent on the air temperature (warmer air holds more water than colder air) and, to a lesser extent, the air pressure. When we refer to air moisture, we normally express it in terms of relative humidity (RH). This is because the absolute amount of water that can be held by air is constantly fluctuating with temperature. The relative humidity is expressed as the percent water vapor in the air in comparison to the total amount of water that could be held by the air if it were saturated. This RH is the most common way of expressing humidity levels, but it does not express plant water loss.

Vapor pressure deficit (VPD) is more accurate when determining water loss from the plant. VPD is simply the difference between the vapor pressure inside the leaf compared to the vapor pressure of the air. If the VDP is high, meaning that the vapor pressure inside the plant is higher than the outside air, then more water vapor escapes out through the stomates (pores in the bottom of leaves). This process of water loss through the leaves is called "transpiration". If the VPD is low, the stomatal openings close and little water and fertilizer is taken up by the plant from the growing medium. VPD is important to know because it is used to schedule irrigations, to determine if air exchanges are needed and if air temperature needs to be increased in order to hold more moisture.

This VPD has been integrated into many greenhouse environmental control systems to manage humidity and for scheduling crop irrigation. Now, how does all this work together for a crop?

Role of humidity in plant growth: Plants are always adjusting their leaf stomatal openings based on the VPD and the humidity in the air. As seen above, high humidity is a problem because water usage by the plant is too slow and compromises quality, even though the stomates are constantly open. Likewise, if humidity is very low and subsequent transpiration is too high, the plant closes its stomatal openings to minimize water loss and wilting. Unfortunately this also means photosynthesis is slowed and subsequently, so is plant growth.

As alluded to above, the two major functions of the plant that tie in closely with the humidity in the air and affect crop performance are transpiration and photosynthesis.

Transpiration: This is the process where plants absorb water through the roots and then give off water vapor through pores in their leaves. The drier or the hotter the air temperature, the faster the transpiration rate from the plant. However, the moisture deficit and transpiration rate are not directly related. This means that in very dry air, the increased rate of transpiration can only go so high in the plant and then it begins to wilt. For example, if the air is extremely dry, but the growing medium has enough water, the plant may wilt and, unless the humidity increases, the plant could die.

On the other hand, if the air is very humid the plant does not take up much water from the growing medium, which also means there is little uptake of fertilizer elements. This is a problem for some elements, particularly calcium, as inadequate uptake can lead to nutrient deficiencies. Also low water usage from the growing medium often correlates with climbing growing medium pH, which makes micronutrients such as iron unavailable to the plant. Typically these problems are seen in the winter and early spring, when air temperatures in the greenhouse are low and transpiration is inadequate, or during the hot, humid summer months.

Photosynthesis: This is the process of fixing carbon dioxide and water in the plant leaves to produce sugars that are used for energy and growth. When the temperature is high and humidity is normal, more stomata will open, letting in carbon dioxide for active photosynthesis. If the air is excessively dry and the plant is wilting, the stomatal openings close, thereby reducing photosynthetic activity and ultimately plant growth. The quality of the crop is dependent on the conditions that promote optimal photosynthesis and humidity plays a role in this process.

plant_responses_humidity_en.jpg


"Plant Response to Humidity"


How to reduce humidity: It’s important to maintain a certain level of humidity in the greenhouse but not to the point where it reaches the dew point. If the temperature in the greenhouse is at or below the dew point, the air cannot hold the moisture it has and it starts to condense on the greenhouse, covering glazing and leaf surfaces. Water on leaves greatly increases disease problems and minimizes water uptake by the plant, increasing nutritional problems.

Sometimes it is difficult to keep the temperature above the dew point, because the air in the greenhouse is very humid, especially during winter months when air exchanges are limited. It is also a challenge as the greenhouse glazing is often cold due to frigid outside air so the moisture in the warm, humid internal air will condense on the inside of the glazing (See pictures 1 and 2). Dripping becomes a major concern, even when the RH is adequate, as it causes uneven crop drying and increases diseases. The use of air flow devices and heating the air greatly helps, but RH can still be high enough to form condensation on cold surfaces. An Infrared radiant heating system may help reduce condensation since it raises the temperature of hard surfaces, such as the plant and growing media surfaces, but not the air so there is less temperature variation between the inside and outside air. Keeping the air temperature more uniform throughout the greenhouse by using fans (See picture 3) and thermal screens, avoiding sudden temperature fluctuations and adjusting irrigation practices based on the greenhouse environment and weather are all good methods to manage humidity and to reduce condensation in the greenhouse.

picture1.jpg
picture2.jpg


"Pictures 1 and 2: In winter, when the humid internal air in the greenhouse comes in contact with
cold greenhouse structures, it produces condensation (picture on left), dripping and puddling
(picture on right) in the greenhouse. Source: Premier Tech Horticulture."


picture3.jpg


"Picture 3: Horizontal air flow fans are a good way of moving air to avoid varied
temperatures in the greenhouse. Source: Premier Tech Horticulture."



How to add humidity: Humidity can be added, especially in propagation houses or when the air is too hot and dry, but it must be done without causing water to puddle on the floor or condense on the leaves or other surfaces in the greenhouse. This requires evaporative devices such as misters, fog units or sprinklers, which add water vapor to the air in order to reduce water loss through the leaves of unrooted cuttings or plants that are under extreme heat and low humidity conditions.

Evaporative devices accomplish three things:

  1. They cool air
  2. They add water vapor
  3. They reduce the vapor pressure deficit
Keep in mind that increasing the humidity reduces the frequency requirement for irrigation.This has to be taken into account when watering a crop in the greenhouse.

Using a growing medium that has high water retention without causing asphyxiation is beneficial when the growing medium dries out too fast due to low humidity. Premier Tech Horticulture offers products like PRO-MIX HPCC with chunk coir, which reduces watering frequency as it holds the water while maintaining a good porosity and drainage.

The bottom line: The good news is that for most growers that have issues with high humidity, it can be corrected at relatively low cost without having to acquire equipment to alleviate high humidity levels in greenhouses. However if the humidity in the greenhouse is too low, using a good fogging system or evaporative devices that procure more humidity is mandatory, especially in propagation houses or the southern areas where drought and high temperatures prevail. In both cases, good environmental control equipment in critical areas in the greenhouse is required for making decisions on corrective measures.

References:

  • BC Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food. 1994. "Understanding Humidity Control in Greenhouses Floriculture" Fact Sheet file no 400-5.
  • Scott Shelton. 2005. "Sweating High Humidity" Greenhouse Product News
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

17,190
438
another good article.....


Humidity can be the most difficult environment factor to control in greenhouses. Even the most sophisticated environmental control equipment cannot perfectly control the humidity level in greenhouses. Humidity levels fluctuate with change in air temperature and plants are constantly transpiring, which adds water vapor to the air. In the northern climatic areas, these challenges are multiplied by many factors, of which the drier, outdoor air that is too cold to perform air exchanges. Humid air directly contributes to problems such as foliar and root diseases, slow drying of the growing medium, plant stress, loss of quality, loss in yields, etc. Therefore more pesticides are needed for disease control and plants tend to have weak, stretched growth making the plant less desirable.

If the humidity is too low, plant growth is often compromised as crops take much longer to obtain the saleable size. Also lower leaves often drop off, growth is hard, and overall quality is not very good. Whether the humidity is too high or too low, the loss of quality reduces the selling price of crops and increases production costs, both of which reduce profits.

Measuring water loss from the plant: Humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air. The maximum amount of water vapor held by the air is dependent on the air temperature (warmer air holds more water than colder air) and, to a lesser extent, the air pressure. When we refer to air moisture, we normally express it in terms of relative humidity (RH). This is because the absolute amount of water that can be held by air is constantly fluctuating with temperature. The relative humidity is expressed as the percent water vapor in the air in comparison to the total amount of water that could be held by the air if it were saturated. This RH is the most common way of expressing humidity levels, but it does not express plant water loss.

Vapor pressure deficit (VPD) is more accurate when determining water loss from the plant. VPD is simply the difference between the vapor pressure inside the leaf compared to the vapor pressure of the air. If the VDP is high, meaning that the vapor pressure inside the plant is higher than the outside air, then more water vapor escapes out through the stomates (pores in the bottom of leaves). This process of water loss through the leaves is called "transpiration". If the VPD is low, the stomatal openings close and little water and fertilizer is taken up by the plant from the growing medium. VPD is important to know because it is used to schedule irrigations, to determine if air exchanges are needed and if air temperature needs to be increased in order to hold more moisture.

This VPD has been integrated into many greenhouse environmental control systems to manage humidity and for scheduling crop irrigation. Now, how does all this work together for a crop?

Role of humidity in plant growth: Plants are always adjusting their leaf stomatal openings based on the VPD and the humidity in the air. As seen above, high humidity is a problem because water usage by the plant is too slow and compromises quality, even though the stomates are constantly open. Likewise, if humidity is very low and subsequent transpiration is too high, the plant closes its stomatal openings to minimize water loss and wilting. Unfortunately this also means photosynthesis is slowed and subsequently, so is plant growth.

As alluded to above, the two major functions of the plant that tie in closely with the humidity in the air and affect crop performance are transpiration and photosynthesis.

Transpiration: This is the process where plants absorb water through the roots and then give off water vapor through pores in their leaves. The drier or the hotter the air temperature, the faster the transpiration rate from the plant. However, the moisture deficit and transpiration rate are not directly related. This means that in very dry air, the increased rate of transpiration can only go so high in the plant and then it begins to wilt. For example, if the air is extremely dry, but the growing medium has enough water, the plant may wilt and, unless the humidity increases, the plant could die.

On the other hand, if the air is very humid the plant does not take up much water from the growing medium, which also means there is little uptake of fertilizer elements. This is a problem for some elements, particularly calcium, as inadequate uptake can lead to nutrient deficiencies. Also low water usage from the growing medium often correlates with climbing growing medium pH, which makes micronutrients such as iron unavailable to the plant. Typically these problems are seen in the winter and early spring, when air temperatures in the greenhouse are low and transpiration is inadequate, or during the hot, humid summer months.

Photosynthesis: This is the process of fixing carbon dioxide and water in the plant leaves to produce sugars that are used for energy and growth. When the temperature is high and humidity is normal, more stomata will open, letting in carbon dioxide for active photosynthesis. If the air is excessively dry and the plant is wilting, the stomatal openings close, thereby reducing photosynthetic activity and ultimately plant growth. The quality of the crop is dependent on the conditions that promote optimal photosynthesis and humidity plays a role in this process.

plant_responses_humidity_en.jpg


"Plant Response to Humidity"


How to reduce humidity: It’s important to maintain a certain level of humidity in the greenhouse but not to the point where it reaches the dew point. If the temperature in the greenhouse is at or below the dew point, the air cannot hold the moisture it has and it starts to condense on the greenhouse, covering glazing and leaf surfaces. Water on leaves greatly increases disease problems and minimizes water uptake by the plant, increasing nutritional problems.

Sometimes it is difficult to keep the temperature above the dew point, because the air in the greenhouse is very humid, especially during winter months when air exchanges are limited. It is also a challenge as the greenhouse glazing is often cold due to frigid outside air so the moisture in the warm, humid internal air will condense on the inside of the glazing (See pictures 1 and 2). Dripping becomes a major concern, even when the RH is adequate, as it causes uneven crop drying and increases diseases. The use of air flow devices and heating the air greatly helps, but RH can still be high enough to form condensation on cold surfaces. An Infrared radiant heating system may help reduce condensation since it raises the temperature of hard surfaces, such as the plant and growing media surfaces, but not the air so there is less temperature variation between the inside and outside air. Keeping the air temperature more uniform throughout the greenhouse by using fans (See picture 3) and thermal screens, avoiding sudden temperature fluctuations and adjusting irrigation practices based on the greenhouse environment and weather are all good methods to manage humidity and to reduce condensation in the greenhouse.

picture1.jpg
picture2.jpg


"Pictures 1 and 2: In winter, when the humid internal air in the greenhouse comes in contact with
cold greenhouse structures, it produces condensation (picture on left), dripping and puddling
(picture on right) in the greenhouse. Source: Premier Tech Horticulture."


picture3.jpg


"Picture 3: Horizontal air flow fans are a good way of moving air to avoid varied
temperatures in the greenhouse. Source: Premier Tech Horticulture."



How to add humidity: Humidity can be added, especially in propagation houses or when the air is too hot and dry, but it must be done without causing water to puddle on the floor or condense on the leaves or other surfaces in the greenhouse. This requires evaporative devices such as misters, fog units or sprinklers, which add water vapor to the air in order to reduce water loss through the leaves of unrooted cuttings or plants that are under extreme heat and low humidity conditions.

Evaporative devices accomplish three things:

  1. They cool air
  2. They add water vapor
  3. They reduce the vapor pressure deficit
Keep in mind that increasing the humidity reduces the frequency requirement for irrigation.This has to be taken into account when watering a crop in the greenhouse.

Using a growing medium that has high water retention without causing asphyxiation is beneficial when the growing medium dries out too fast due to low humidity. Premier Tech Horticulture offers products like PRO-MIX HPCC with chunk coir, which reduces watering frequency as it holds the water while maintaining a good porosity and drainage.

The bottom line: The good news is that for most growers that have issues with high humidity, it can be corrected at relatively low cost without having to acquire equipment to alleviate high humidity levels in greenhouses. However if the humidity in the greenhouse is too low, using a good fogging system or evaporative devices that procure more humidity is mandatory, especially in propagation houses or the southern areas where drought and high temperatures prevail. In both cases, good environmental control equipment in critical areas in the greenhouse is required for making decisions on corrective measures.

References:

  • BC Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food. 1994. "Understanding Humidity Control in Greenhouses Floriculture" Fact Sheet file no 400-5.
  • Scott Shelton. 2005. "Sweating High Humidity" Greenhouse Product News


Nice posts!

And his article brings up my fear of the vpd chart as a static set of parameters.

The dew point can make all of this risky.
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
Nice posts!

And his article brings up my fear of the vpd chart as a static set of parameters.

The dew point can make all of this risky.
I agree.. I cant bring myself to run 75% rh. You would need pin point equipment with fast acting relays so that it didnt spike past 80 :(
In my room i notice that at 63 rh, there was times it climbed to 70, AS my autopilot kicks the dehuey on 66, dead band set to +/- 3%
And it will bring it down to 60%... so im always going back and forth from 60 to 70%
I WAS SCARED, I WONT LIE!!!
But i kept going and had faith, AND watched real good for any signs of moisture, or condensation building on my leaves. I also watched how much water went in the system, and how much came out. I do that by taking the water that the dehuey catches goes right back in the system. most of the time its the same ph that it was in the system with oo1 ec
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

17,190
438
I should mention I live on a lake close to a big lake. Lake Michigan.

And in an old rebuilt and upgraded cabin with an open Michigan basement.

Humidity spikes are a constant problem here so my personal environmental decisions for my rooms take this very seriously.
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
I should mention I live on a lake close to a big lake. Lake Michigan.

And in an old rebuilt and upgraded cabin with an open Michigan basement.

Humidity spikes are a constant problem here so my personal environmental decisions for my rooms take this very seriously.
That is a fact! Your right you got to work with what you got.
Are you on the east side of the lake? You said Michigan basement, which i never have heard of,,(im googling after post lol), so I figure that..
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

17,190
438
That is a fact! Your right you got to work with what you got.
Are you on the east side of the lake? You said Michigan basement, which i never have heard of,,(im googling after post lol), so I figure that..

Michigan is on the east side of Lake Michigan.

i live about half way up the shoreline and inland a bit.

The old basements were root cellars. Dirt floors and pourous block.

It is concreted on the whole floor sort of now but the back part is from 1920 or so and has rock form foundation. Basically a pile of river rocks for walls with a thin coating.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

17,190
438
And that was really my point @EventHorizan

We all have different environments and situations. Charts and guidelines can not account for all the variables. We have to.

Also. All strains would not like the same vpd. That is rediculous. The lettuce greenhouses in china don't follow the same parameters as a Dutch tomato Greenhouse do they?

I dont actually know the answer but am assuming it is up to the Greenhouse manager to decide.
 
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