Vpd Latest Research Contradicts 30-40% In Flowering Rh?

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Bergman

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First time posting! I would like to answer all your questions regarding VPD as you are on the right track but I’m hesitant to post what I know and believe to be accurate and true after literally years of comparative grows etc.... Iam ANYTHING but an expert but endlessly curious and have a need to prove everything to myself usually over and over.. that being said there’s nothing magical about what I wish to share as for the most part the relevant info is already here I just have no desire to get into a debate with anyone in the forum.. I am grateful for everybody who posts and shares the experience and hard earned knowledge!!! I know there are plenty of people that share there knowledge that have iq’s in the stratosphere compared to myself.... That being said the biggest challenge is separating the wheat from the Schaff as they say. With so much info and opinions it seems to be more advantageous to have the gift of knowing what’s useless garbage and who truly knows there _ _ _ t!! Not sure what the rules on the site regarding emails is etc but here goes... email me at bergesondan@gmail and I’m certain I can straighten out any VPD questions you have and it will make perfect logical sense.... feel free to share anything and all from me I just don’t openly post all because there’s always somebody that has to turn it into something it’s not.... an argument that gets nasty that I don’t have any desire to engage in!!!! One tip for the road here... if your concerned about high temps and high humidity while lights are on (which is a valid concern ) I’ve found that if i AGGRESIVELY drop temps AND HUMIDITY WHILE LIGHTS ARE OFF you’ll never have a mold issue....!! For several reasons, mold doesn’t just start after one or 2 sessions of adverse conditions so by drying it out each lights off period your effectively setting any mold conditions back to zero..... Granted it’s not easy to drop temps and humidity with lights off BUT it can be done, you must have that 12 hours off drying out time to prevent the possibility of mold spores starting during the high temps/humidity lights on time.... That being said don’t forget the importance of RH vs actual water vapor in the air... In other words give me 50’ and 85% RH while lights are off and you’ve got an much drier mold preventative environment then 70’ and 50% RH.... Both conditions may prove to be just fine however there is far more actual water in the air in the 70’ 50 % RH environment..... If you can’t get your humidity down while lights are off try running a heater to force your AC into working harder as your air conditioner is usually far superior to most dehumidifiers at actually dropping humidity!!! Hope this helps!! Good luck and god bless!!
 
02trueblue

02trueblue

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^^^^ this guy gets it

I live in Colorado, and the outside RH is generally in the 20% range.. my sensors just say "low"...
I have to use humidifiers to keep the RH in the 40% range.. it rarely goes higher than this. When my humidifiers aren't running the room stays at 30-40%

I don't even adjust the RH when I veg plants that are going outdoors. They survive fine here with low humidity outdoors... indoors it is just a bonus to have a little extra humidity.

If it's hot, the plants will "breathe/transpire" more. More or less humidity will make that easier or harder for the plant. This will be shown by the plant "drinking" more or less water.... if that makes sense? You can adjust your PPM to make up for the uptake of nutrients. If the plant is drinking more, you can use a lower PPM. If it's not drinking as much, you might be able to get away with a higher PPM.

It's similar to turning down your lights - (as an example)... if you only fire up 2/3 of your lights, the overall light intensity will be much less. So you can feed your plants a lower PPM and they will still stay nice and green, since there isn't as much photosynthesis going on. It kinda works the same way for RH
 
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