Water Chilling Q & A

ttystikk · Jul 4, 2013

ftwendy said:
That's freaking cool..... city line in, sewer out? Is the meter in your house, or accessible? Might be worth noting how much water you use. Data........

Happy the band aid works for you bro. That's a testament.

I don't think it would be effective if the water was much warmer than 70 degrees, but as a band aid it is kickin ass.

seebobsled · Jul 7, 2013

That's cool. I just added the second stage to my system to help in the peak demand. This also was in the event of a chiller failure one will struggle till repaired.

ttystikk · Jul 8, 2013

I have a car radiator and ac condenser. I'm thinking that these and a couple of squirrel cage blowers might make very effective heat exchangers.

One in each of two rooms. I may not even need the icebox exchangers.

seebobsled · Jul 8, 2013

If your nighttime temperature is low enough put them outside with said fan =
compressor-less chiller ! Add more water volume in chiller rez to handle daytime heat load. Why reinvent the Ice boxes you own?

seebobsled · Jul 8, 2013

With enough volume of water and cool outside temps you could do without a chiller! Chillville spoke of the Canadians doing the compressor-less chiller applications a lot! Why do you think Hydro Innovations sell one!

seebobsled · Jul 8, 2013

Also please let us know how much water per day used to cool 8k rooms while dtw chilling.

ttystikk · Jul 8, 2013

seebobsled said:
If your nighttime temperature is low enough put them outside with said fan =
compressor-less chiller ! Add more water volume in chiller rez to handle daytime heat load. Why reinvent the Ice boxes you own?

Because of inadequate throughput.

ttystikk · Jul 8, 2013

seebobsled said:
With enough volume of water and cool outside temps you could do without a chiller! Chillville spoke of the Canadians doing the compressor-less chiller applications a lot! Why do you think Hydro Innovations sell one!

Summertime nighttime temps aren't quite cold enough here to make it work. In the mtns, sure.

I lnow exactly why HI sells one, buy I wouldn't buy it from them when I can just go get a scrapped compressor from an hvac shop.

Also, outdoor water lines need glycol pe tt will freeze in winter. Thus far, my system has been almost exclusively indoors, including the chiller itself during winter, as I use it to heat my home.

Finally, if I ran glycol, I would not have the option to run city water to cool with.

ttystikk · Jul 8, 2013

seebobsled said:
Also please let us know how much water per day used to cool 8k rooms while dtw chilling.

It's not pretty. I'll try to get some kind of figures together. At least 100 gph

fishwhistle · Jul 8, 2013

Too bad you cant save that water in a cistern and recycle it,a cistern to collect rainwater etc etc is on my to do list.

ttystikk · Jul 8, 2013

fishwhistle said:
Too bad you cant save that water in a cistern and recycle it,a cistern to collect rainwater etc etc is on my to do list.

tell me about it! I feel terrible wasting all this FRESH POTABLE water.

I have the HVAC guy coming tomorrow morning. For free, since their guy broke it in the first place.

aSilvrHaze · Jul 8, 2013

how about pumps? I'm going to be setting up a semi-large manifold to run throughout the house to hook up some heat exchangers to use as a/c, and have been wondering what size pump I should get. The one I ended up getting is the Supreme Hy-Drive 2600gph. At 10' of head, it flows ~1900, the funny thing is, the larger models (4000, 4800 gph) have less flow at the same head height. Is there such a thing as Too much flow for a cooling manifold?

seebobsled · Jul 9, 2013

Asilvrhaze
A motor has a range of RpMs to run at peak. That said the flow is based on pitch of impeller and head height is based off peak horse power of motor. Sounds like the models use same motor with different pitched impellers. The amp difference in models go higher as gph going up as well I bet. I did a bunch a research when in design.
I have a pump it has 3 different impellers.
It pulls 1.9-3.2 amps at 120v 2300,3500,4600 gph 26.5 ft head

seebobsled · Jul 9, 2013

Too much flow can be bypassed with an extra valve on the manifold and dumped back to Rez.

Swany · Jul 9, 2013

Hey Tty, need help with a set up.

Friend has two rooms, 6 1k's in bloom and 4 1k's in veg. He's getting over 90 degrees now and I want to set him up with chilling. You use 2 tons with vented hoods right? He's got open lights and I think two more than you if you have all the lights on. How much of a chiller would you recommend and do you have any preferred brands / sources?

Edit - I'm looking on Amazon and finding chillers rated in HP, 1/4 hp, 1/2 hp - and a 1 hp unit for $999. Are these way to small?

ttystikk · Jul 9, 2013

Swany said:
Hey Tty, need help with a set up.

Friend has two rooms, 6 1k's in bloom and 4 1k's in veg. He's getting over 90 degrees now and I want to set him up with chilling. You use 2 tons with vented hoods right? He's got open lights and I think two more than you if you have all the lights on. How much of a chiller would you recommend and do you have any preferred brands / sources?

Edit - I'm looking on Amazon and finding chillers rated in HP, 1/4 hp, 1/2 hp - and a 1 hp unit for $999. Are these way to small?

first, my chiller is currently broken. The service tech broke it...

Second, WAY too much veg lighting! Why so much? I run just one kW of veg lighting, plus a 130w led, for three veg stages. The last of these delivers a bloom ready plant to the open room every 16 days. The bloom room has 4kW, and they fill it right up! The key is to run enough stages of veg to grow a big plant.

Try to reconfigure for at least two bloom rooms on a flip, preferably of equal size. Run four bloom spaces for 15-16 day cycles, or two for 30-35 days each. I like four, all with separate blooming spaces. This allows for precise tailoring of conditions for each stage of development. This holds true for both during veg and bloom.

Taking this idea another step, if all the plants in a given zone were the same, environmental conditions could then be tailored to the needs and timing of the strain as well as the lifecycle stage it's in. This is how both yields and quality get maximized...

seebobsled · Jul 9, 2013

Swany said:
Edit - I'm looking on Amazon and finding chillers rated in HP, 1/4 hp, 1/2 hp - and a 1 hp unit for $999. Are these way to small?

If you're looking at import chillers they over rate them. 1hp would have a 3/4 HP compressor. A true 8000 btu.
Chillers is still a small market. Only a few manufacturing commercial chillers. The more costly ones use more materials for heat exchangers to perform better.
I went with eco plus 1.5 HP commercial. Added a Aqua Quest 1hp also. 2k flower unvented.
The 1.5 worked but struggled in peak demand.
You get what you pay for. I wished for a chill king but retail price was out of reach. But the fact that multiple stages will provide back up in redundancy if one fails.

ttystikk · Jul 9, 2013

My backup is cold water. It will be pricey but it's available. I wish I had the second ChillKing I have on layaway now, so I could refer to its wiring, because would you believe that's their excuse? They can't figure out how to wire a fucking AC unit? Really?!

Seamaiden · Jul 10, 2013

I'll have to get back to this later, but I didn't realize you're running through so much water. 100gpd is too much for me on a daily basis. For *all* my irrigation needs I use about 35gpd, all irrigation. I thought the chiller was for recirculating applications. What am I missing?

connoisseurde420 · Jul 10, 2013

seamaiden he's running his backup plan drain to waste here. once ac is fixed it will be a closed system as you would expect

Water Chilling Q & A

Water Chilling Q & A

ttystikk

seebobsled

ttystikk

seebobsled

seebobsled

seebobsled

ttystikk

ttystikk

ttystikk

fishwhistle

ttystikk

aSilvrHaze

seebobsled

seebobsled

Swany

ttystikk

seebobsled

ttystikk

Seamaiden

Living dead girl

connoisseurde420

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