water is 380ppm = RO system?

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woodsmaneh

woodsmaneh

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So my well water is 380ppm and I don't think I can use it in the UC? I don't know what to do other than by a ro system. Is that the right answer? If I expect to run the veg at 450 or so I got no room for food? Any help would be very welcome. Any other possible answers?

Thanks all :worried
 
S

SSHZ

Guest
Yes, that's high. An r.o. device will be very helpful in your case....... it will get your ppm down between 0-30 ppm which is perfect.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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Some sort of filtration will be necessary. I'm on a well also, and my TDS out of the tap is high, but it's not that high. I finally ended up going with a 6-stage RO/DI unit from Pure Water Club. If I had stayed growing in soil only, I probably would not have been forced to go that route. But I love coco too much to give it up!
 
S

SSHZ

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I grow in promix......... I use a countertop device from www.freedrinkingwater.com and it works very well. It's reasonably priced and I just changed my filters once a year. My water is terrible- I live on an old peach tree farm and there is a TON of heavy metals, salts, chemicals, etc. in my soil making my water undrinkable, especially after the chlorinator and water softener gets thru with it....
 
M

MMJInsiders

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0
Definitely go R/O. You could try to work around it but in the chance you have issues, it would be one more thing you would suspect as your culprit, a variable you don't need. I use Merlin Garden Pro's with the blue pre-filters and they work a charm. Worth every penny. I just pre-ordered a new Evolution RO1000 that I have high hopes for but can't attest to it just yet.

The Pure Water Club units that Seamaiden mentioned are actually pretty good for the money but I found that I needed to take each fitting off, add a small o-ring to, and then reinstall to stop minor leaking. I have a 100gpd unit by them under my kitchen sink for filtered drinking water. I do not think the unit I have under the sink could handle the water demand of 1 of our systems but they do have larger units.
 
deacon1503

deacon1503

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My well water is 650 ppm. After a sediment filter, water softerner, and a booster pumped r/o, I've got 30-50 ppm product.
 
Green Mopho

Green Mopho

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R/O sucks and takes forever to fill up. You'll be changing your membranes every month unless you really prefilter. You can get an inline 1 micron filter from Home Depot for cheap that has no waste run-off. Even a 5 micron will get your ppms in at least half. There are cheaper and more ecofriendly routes than R/O, IMVHO, without all that waste.
 
L

Lost

2,969
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Green Mopho said:
R/O sucks and takes forever to fill up. You'll be changing your membranes every month unless you really prefilter. You can get an inline 1 micron filter from Home Depot for cheap that has no waste run-off. Even a 5 micron will get your ppms in at least half. There are cheaper and more ecofriendly routes than R/O, IMVHO, without all that waste.
Click to expand...



Huh?? Change every month??

I've had my r/o filter for 1 1/2 years now. I usually replace em every year but this one is still cranking out 20 ppm water, even after a year of cali 500 plus ppm water doing about 1k gallons a month.

It really depends what kind of water you have and r/o is great. If you have water from say 300 ppm or less, you might want to use just a filter so you don't have to add back in cal-mag.


:)
 
M

MMJInsiders

82
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I'll offer this in regards to R/O water... Look at R/O as starting with a blank slate. You don't have to worry about what's in it and what's not. You can tailor for a strain by adjusting things like more/less cal-mag etc (not saying you can't with tap, I just find it easier). Pure water is one less variable you need to worry about should you have issues. R/O systems are extensible in that, if you need more flow, you can add on to or buy a larger capacity system. I swap filters every 9 months to a year with high tds inlet water and a hell of allot of flow. A simple pre-post tds meter will keep you on schedule for filter changes and a pre filter pump will boost pressure if you are not seeing enough flow.

If you do not go R/O, have a water quality test done to determine what is in your water and what is not. Find a good sediment filter or a series of filters and it may work perfectly for you. From years of experience I can tell you first hand though that a quality R/O system is more than worth it's weight regardless of waste (and a little creativity and you can put the waste water to work as well).
 
F

FatFreddysKat

Guest
Damn my well is pushing out 180 ppm....guess I better rethink my water supply....but I havent had issues SO FAR that dictate the purchase....obviously wouldn't hurt though either.....time to go window shopping!!!!
Sorry for the hi-jack!!!
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
MMJInsiders said:
I'll offer this in regards to R/O water... Look at R/O as starting with a blank slate. You don't have to worry about what's in it and what's not. You can tailor for a strain by adjusting things like more/less cal-mag etc (not saying you can't with tap, I just find it easier). Pure water is one less variable you need to worry about should you have issues. R/O systems are extensible in that, if you need more flow, you can add on to or buy a larger capacity system. I swap filters every 9 months to a year with high tds inlet water and a hell of allot of flow. A simple pre-post tds meter will keep you on schedule for filter changes and a pre filter pump will boost pressure if you are not seeing enough flow.

If you do not go R/O, have a water quality test done to determine what is in your water and what is not. Find a good sediment filter or a series of filters and it may work perfectly for you. From years of experience I can tell you first hand though that a quality R/O system is more than worth it's weight regardless of waste (and a little creativity and you can put the waste water to work as well).
Click to expand...
This is exactly why and how I landed with RO/DI. I can't stand the waste, but the only time I can use unfiltered water is during summer, on my OD organic ladies.

I have ended up using the "waste" water (which tests out cleaner than the carbon/particulate-filtered water out of the tap) on my landscaping plants and the veggie garden.

I use a permeate pump to help increase efficiency, so I get a good 2:1 waste-to-water ratio. A booster pump for low pressure situations would be better than a permeate, but if the pressure out of the tap is good then a permeate is fine.
 
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