Ways of force flowering?

[Limeygreen]

You can run plants inside and start flowering before putting them out. When the light gets to the 12/12 period you can plant them out and they will finish flowering. So if you have a 20 week strain and then 2 months flower frost free outside when the light goes to the 12/12 , flower 2.5 months inside then out otherwise have to black it out.

 

[OGkushsmoker]

i have a "gods gift" lady that was vegging indoors under 24 hours of light put her outside shes just about to finish up kinda sucks i cant make any of her clones reveg they just wanna bloom

 

[another_sellout]

There's some evidence that says that some varieties are relative photoperiod determinate, such as Moroccans, south Africans, early indicas and afghanis. They'll trigger into flower if moved from 24 hours of light into as little as eight hours of darkness. (Check out Ed Rosenthal's Grower's Handbook, the "Advanced Flowering" section.) So, just take your baby girls from constant indoor light to outside around the longest day of the year, June 19th-22nd, and that should be just over eight hours of dark. Everything should be down and drying before September 15th. Just make sure you're starting with the right genetics. If they're against you, you'll never win.

 

[TurboGSR96]

I have roughly 10 or so females just starting to bud now and all of them are rootbound in 5 gallon buckets, most of them are 6' to 7' tall outdoors is it too late for me to transplant them? I am contemplating planting them in the ground at the moment.

I just read someone's reply in here about the fan's yellowing and falling off when rootbound and I am experiencing this very early, what can I do to fix it?

 

[another_sellout]

I have roughly 10 or so females just starting to bud now and all of them are rootbound in 5 gallon buckets, most of them are 6' to 7' tall outdoors is it too late for me to transplant them? I am contemplating planting them in the ground at the moment.

I just read someone's reply in here about the fan's yellowing and falling off when rootbound and I am experiencing this very early, what can I do to fix it?

Integra-
Your plants are fine.
Sigh... it's okay.
Nothing could be better for your plants than putting them in the bosom of the earth!
This is how I learned to do it in Mendocino, and I'm happy to tell someone other than my wife, who isn't listening anyway.

Step one:
Dig a square yard out of the ground. Three feet by three feet by three feet. Back fill about 2/3 of the way with the finest and lightest soil you can afford. Sunshine 1 and 4 have always been economic and high performance.

Step two:
Unbucket your plants. Take your fingers and dig them in about a half inch at the top of the root ball, then scrape down. It seems cruel, and will take a day or two to recover from, but if you don't free up those little root ends to run as they please, transplanting will have only a limited effect. Once the root bundle is as furry as 70's porn...

Step three:
Fill the hole with water. Really. Fill it until it looks like an alligator's gonna pop out of it. Now, sink your plant into the muck as deep as you can, and back fill around the top third with your remaining soil mixture. Now, water in the top third with your nutrient solution, preferably one with microrhyzie and other beneficial micro critters. I like Foxfarm's Big Bloom, but Age Old Bloom or compost teas are just as good.

Step four:
Build your swale, that dirt mound, around your plant, and mulch about a foot deep with straw or non-acidic leaf and yard matter. This will keep your water and nutrients where you want them, your soil light and moist, and your roots insulated and temperature stable, even in outdoor conditions. Keep up on the mulch, too. It becomes more important, and hopefully thicker, the later and colder it gets in the season.

Once your roots find their way into the earth, you should see a stop in the progression of your leaf drop, at least until the end of the season. Remember, don't expect all your damaged leaves to recover. Some deficiency damage is permanent and can't be reversed. Don't let them bother you.

Well, hope this helps.
It's all so easy to say when I'm not the one that's gotta dig the holes!

Peace!

 

[TurboGSR96]

That was a great help, but unfortunately digging holes is not an option otherwise they would already be in holes, I wish I could but I cant do it at their current location, not to mention where they are has very high ariel traffic and the holes would stick out like a sore thumb.

 

[another_sellout]

Find some used food grade plastic 55 gallon drums on craigslist.org or elsewhere on the internet. They're normally ten or fifteen dollars. Cut it in half long ways, so it looks like two troughs. Drill holes in the bottom and place two plants wide apart in each and proceed with step two. You won't be able to move them, but they'll have more than enough root space to finish in comfort. Cheaper still, you could just transplant directly into the 3.8cf bail of Sunshine 4 itself. Just don't forget to cut holes in the bottom. Anyway, I can't pretend to know your situation. I just want you to succeed.

 

[TurboGSR96]

Lol @ calling me Integra :P I just noticed that

More awesome idea's from you, but doing all that will make my spot very noticeable from above, my stuff is sitting in 3' tall crab grass and pricker bushes....

I might just cut the bottoms out of the buckets and dig down 6" into the existing loam and see what happens

 

[TurboGSR96]

I do have bales of Pro-Mix BX sold right down the street but they are $30 a piece and I need quite a few of them.

 

[poina]

Silverback had a good read on this subject on IC. Search 60/60 forced flowering...Hope it helps.