what’s wrong with my plant

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greenlover420

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day 30 bottom leaves still becoming worse not sure exactly why guessing it’s lacking some type of nutrition or maybe getting too much from the soil.
is there anyway to save the leaves? or prevent other leaves from dying? is the whole plant dying?
Whats wrong with my plant
Whats wrong with my plant 3
Whats wrong with my plant 2
 
Whats wrong with my plant 4
LoveGrowingIt

LoveGrowingIt

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Welcome to the farm! I'm sure you'll find help here.


day 30 bottom leaves still becoming worse not sure exactly why guessing it’s lacking some type of nutrition or maybe getting too much from the soil.
Pictures taken with white light would help. They look dry or nutrient deficient. It's hard to tell. My eyesight isn't good.

is there anyway to save the leaves?
No.

or prevent other leaves from dying?
Yes. Give it what it needs. Tell us more about it so we can help. What soil? Nutrients? Watering? Light?

is the whole plant dying?
No, but it needs help.
 
Imzzaudae

Imzzaudae

1,931
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Hey Green. Fill me in as best you can,.
What is the potting medium she is planted in?
Do you PH your water? At what PH?
Are you fertilizing her? If so with what fertilizer?
What light are you using? How far above the plant top, at what power setting?
How long ago did you transplant into this bag?

I'd like to help you but I need to know all you can fire back at me k.
 
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greenlover420

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Hey Green. Fill me in as best you can,.
What is the potting medium she is planted in?
Do you PH your water? At what PH?
Are you fertilizing her? If so with what fertilizer?
What light are you using? How far above the plant top, at what power setting?
How long ago did you transplant into this bag?

I'd like to help you but I need to know all you can fire back at me k.
she’s currently in scott’s potting soil it’s peat moss and perlite with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus so i’m not going to be fertilizing for a few months. i do want different soil but something good and cheap. i’m not currrently ph water usually use spring bottled water.
using 600 watt lights about 20 inches above.
repotted 2 weeks ago.
 
Thatoneguyyouknow_

Thatoneguyyouknow_

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she’s currently in scott’s potting soil it’s peat moss and perlite with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus so i’m not going to be fertilizing for a few months. i do want different soil but something good and cheap. i’m not currrently ph water usually use spring bottled water.
using 600 watt lights about 20 inches above.
repotted 2 weeks ago.
most scotts pre-nuted soils are more acidic then cannabis would really prefer. You get slow growth rates, and a fair bit of cal-mag deficiency through PH lockout.

I see a lot of bark and stick in the mix. You didnt use their garden soil did you? that's gotta be mixed about 50/50 with topsoil or its way to acidic with way to much time release feed in it, making the acidity even worse.

Your bottom leaves are showing bad calcium deficiency. I know that most scotts soilS haVE plenty of calcium in it. More then necessary for cannabis really.

If you are not using tap water you need to make sure the ph going in is between 6.5-7. If the PH coming out the drainage is a good bit lower then going in, you have a soil acidity problem, and the deficiencies presenting are actually a PH lockout. Trying to add more nutrient to fix these deficiencies if it's a lockout will actually compound your problem. If it's lockout and you correct the problem without a full ph adjusting flush before hand, your plants will go into overfeeding stress as soon as they come out of the lockout, and you'll be fighting another problem. Plant growing in a soil to acidic also tend to be growth stunted and grow quite slowly. With older growth perpetually displaying signs of late stage calcium deficiency

Having a plant in a container thats bigger then it needs like this also makes orrecting an acidic root

Id recommend letting the soil completely dry out over the next few days. And flush very thoroughly with PH neutral water. Then let fully dry out and watch for improvement. Making sure to test the runoff. Flush until runoff is more or less the same as the intake water, or at least within =/- 0.5. I probably wouldn;t have upotted that plant yet as small as it is either. Id probably have still had it in a solo cup. Having a soil zone bigger then necessary makes correcting root zone issues a lot more difficult, and it will be some time yet before that plant fills out that container enough to really affect the conditions of the soil in its own favor (which yes, to an extent, plants can absolutely do, some tweak their own root zone ecosystem constantly, my land race sativas did, and thats why i couldnt grow them in hydro, they treated my DWC buckets like a mineral rich soil and constantly secreted acids and byproducts into it, creating constant turmoil over PH)

You can get away with scotts and miracle grow fertilizers with cannabis if you really want to use them. They are fine and work well just require thorough flushing procedure before harvest. But scotts and miracle grow soils are terrible. I havent used one yet i would consider a good product. Theyre all very acidic, and have more time release feed then necessary, and they ALL, in my experience at least, require diluting with inert soil, the screening off of bark and sticks, or flushing and PH amending heavily before use with cannabis. They work fine for tomatos and pole beans in ground, but for cannabis in a container they can be very tricky. Their "garden topsoil" blend sits at like 5 ph unless you mix it with other soil, or HEAVILY flush it first. So does their "nature care" organic soil and pre nuted potting blends. None above 6ph, all way over nuted as well. All of them use osmocote as well. A highly acidic, high nitrogen time released capsule feed that continuously releases feed for up to 9 months, and is impossible to flush out fully within cannabis' life cycle too. Osmocote is really only truly suitable to slow growing, woody stemmed shrubs and trees tbh. Rose bushes and the such.

And just in case not aware, some people aren't, By purchasing products from scotts or miracle grow, you are directly supporting Monsanto as a business with your dollars and this may not be something you wish to do either.
 
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greenlover420

34
18
most scotts pre-nuted soils are more acidic then cannabis would really prefer. You get slow growth rates, and a fair bit of cal-mag deficiency through PH lockout.

I see a lot of bark and stick in the mix. You didnt use their garden soil did you? that's gotta be mixed about 50/50 with topsoil or its way to acidic with way to much time release feed in it, making the acidity even worse.

Your bottom leaves are showing bad calcium deficiency. I know that most scotts soilS haVE plenty of calcium in it. More then necessary for cannabis really.

If you are not using tap water you need to make sure the ph going in is between 6.5-7. If the PH coming out the drainage is a good bit lower then going in, you have a soil acidity problem, and the deficiencies presenting are actually a PH lockout. Trying to add more nutrient to fix these deficiencies if it's a lockout will actually compound your problem. If it's lockout and you correct the problem without a full ph adjusting flush before hand, your plants will go into overfeeding stress as soon as they come out of the lockout, and you'll be fighting another problem. Plant growing in a soil to acidic also tend to be growth stunted and grow quite slowly. With older growth perpetually displaying signs of late stage calcium deficiency

Having a plant in a container thats bigger then it needs like this also makes orrecting an acidic root

Id recommend letting the soil completely dry out over the next few days. And flush very thoroughly with PH neutral water. Then let fully dry out and watch for improvement. Making sure to test the runoff. Flush until runoff is more or less the same as the intake water, or at least within =/- 0.5. I probably wouldn;t have upotted that plant yet as small as it is either. Id probably have still had it in a solo cup. Having a soil zone bigger then necessary makes correcting root zone issues a lot more difficult, and it will be some time yet before that plant fills out that container enough to really affect the conditions of the soil in its own favor (which yes, to an extent, plants can absolutely do, some tweak their own root zone ecosystem constantly, my land race sativas did, and thats why i couldnt grow them in hydro, they treated my DWC buckets like a mineral rich soil and constantly secreted acids and byproducts into it, creating constant turmoil over PH)

You can get away with scotts and miracle grow fertilizers with cannabis if you really want to use them. They are fine and work well just require thorough flushing procedure before harvest. But scotts and miracle grow soils are terrible. I havent used one yet i would consider a good product. Theyre all very acidic, and have more time release feed then necessary, and they ALL, in my experience at least, require diluting with inert soil, the screening off of bark and sticks, or flushing and PH amending heavily before use with cannabis. They work fine for tomatos and pole beans in ground, but for cannabis in a container they can be very tricky. Their "garden topsoil" blend sits at like 5 ph unless you mix it with other soil, or HEAVILY flush it first. So does their "nature care" organic soil and pre nuted potting blends. None above 6ph, all way over nuted as well. All of them use osmocote as well. A highly acidic, high nitrogen time released capsule feed that continuously releases feed for up to 9 months, and is impossible to flush out fully within cannabis' life cycle too. Osmocote is really only truly suitable to slow growing, woody stemmed shrubs and trees tbh. Rose bushes and the such.

And just in case not aware, some people aren't, By purchasing products from scotts or miracle grow, you are directly supporting Monsanto as a business with your dollars and this may not be something you wish to do either.
update picked up some new soil pro mix going to be using this for my 2nd plant and maybe repot the other plant once it settles into pot. Also removed the dying leaves idk if that’ll do more harm than go but i figured so the plant wouldn’t be wasn’t energy trying to recover leaves
 
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Imzzaudae

Imzzaudae

1,931
263
Fist issue is your light is way to close. A 600 should be 30 - 36" above the tops never any closer k.
Seedlings power setting at 30" 60%. Veg no higher than 70% at 30" and see how they do.

Thatoneguy has pretty much covered the soil issues. City or rain water is always best. Maybe pick up a P.H pen and some
packets of buffer powders so you can set the meter up. You need to P.H test water if your just watering and again check solution when feeding. Always the same give or take a couple of points. You should only need P.H down.

Not to worry bud we all suffer a few growing pains the first grow or 2 then it just seems to come together.
 
Thatoneguyyouknow_

Thatoneguyyouknow_

904
243
Fist issue is your light is way to close. A 600 should be 30 - 36" above the tops never any closer k.
Seedlings power setting at 30" 60%. Veg no higher than 70% at 30" and see how they do.

Thatoneguy has pretty much covered the soil issues. City or rain water is always best. Maybe pick up a P.H pen and some
packets of buffer powders so you can set the meter up. You need to P.H test water if your just watering and again check solution when feeding. Always the same give or take a couple of points. You should only need P.H down.

Not to worry bud we all suffer a few growing pains the first grow or 2 then it just seems to come together.
most PH meters actually come calibrated now a days, usually anyway.

Often people will test them with RO or distilled water and get a crazy high reading and think its not callibrated, but if you put some dissolved solids into the water they will usually be a ok right out of the box. Most come with the buffer powders too even the $6 ebay ones now a days.

These meters use an electrode that works best in water that can conduct some amount of continues current. And a lot of the cheap ones come out of the package with an air bubble down in the bulb of the electrode that sometimes takes a bit of time or shaking around to get back out of the globe section.

If that air bubble is in the globe and not the stem of the electrode, you will get a falsely high, and inconsistent reading.



Those grey/white or blue/white combo Ph/tds/ec meters that run about $25 tend to be WAY more reliable for longer periods of time then the cheap yellow PH meters.

Ive used the same $5 greay tds meter for nearly 15 years now though. those are great.




Just added meter fun facts i suppose lol.
 
J

jester83

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18
Don't mean to jump on your thread but I do have a question about this little girl just to give u ideas of what is going on I'm using ffof I don't ph just use bottle water and the light is normal since they are out side it also rained for two days where I'm at
 
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Grower1974

Grower1974

236
63
Don't mean to jump on your thread but I do have a question about this little girl just to give u ideas of what is going on I'm using ffof I don't ph just use bottle water and the light is normal since they are out side it also rained for two days where I'm at
Too soaked for too long. Choking roots with moisture.
 
J

jester83

48
18
But I do have a few more and they seam to be doing just fine that seed was a defect by the way
 
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greenlover420

34
18
update picked up some new soil pro mix going to be using this for my 2nd plant and maybe repot the other plant once it settles into pot. Also removed the dying leaves idk if that’ll do more harm than go but i figured so the plant wouldn’t be wasn’t energy trying to recover leaves
what can i do to save my plant? wait and re pot it again or just leave it in this soil and flush it
 
Thatoneguyyouknow_

Thatoneguyyouknow_

904
243
what can i do to save my plant? wait and re pot it again or just leave it in this soil and flush it
Not trying to be a dick, but All viable options have been given to you already, i apologize but begging isnt going to change your options, and you are still the one who has to make a decision and do something. Not us. Id recommend fixing the acidity with lime or something, like was already mentioned, or heavy flushing of the soil as well

No one here is arguing with each other either, we are just proposing your options for handling this lol

You can pull it out and wash away the acidic soil and re-pot it, but its going to massively transplant shock. If thats a photo period plant it would be worth it in the end to do that most likely. especially if its a plant you really dont want to lose. Being as stunted as it is, its root system is going to be far more developed then most plants that size.

Hate to say it, but if thats what the plant looks like after over a month, and its an auto, that plant is never going to yield anything worth having around as long as its going to take. Hope its a photoperiod plant.


Personally, if it were me, id start a new one in proper soil from the beginning whether it was an auto or not. Itll be as big or bigger then that plant within 10 days of popping above soil. It would probably be the same size as that plant before that plant will totally even recover from such an intense transplant shock should you decide to go that route. If it was my only bean of that genepool though, id put a lot more effort into trying to save it.



If its a photoperiod plant and you dont have more from that genepool, or theres something particularly unique about the phenotype, it can still bounce back to 100% from the soil acidity issues, if its an auto, i know you really dont want to hear this, but probably start a new one with appropriate soil, that plants gonna yeild like an 8th tops most likely


Your most recent pics actually do look like health is turning up and some new growth is accelerating in dvelopment a bit. PLant is still very stunted though, it would prob be a couple weeks of amendment before the plant goes on into full force veg again.
 
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greenlover420

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Not trying to be a dick, but All viable options have been given to you already, i apologize but begging isnt going to change your options, and you are still the one who has to make a decision and do something. Not us. Id recommend fixing the acidity with lime or something, like was already mentioned, or heavy flushing of the soil as well

No one here is arguing with each other either, we are just proposing your options for handling this lol

You can pull it out and wash away the acidic soil and re-pot it, but its going to massively transplant shock. If thats a photo period plant it would be worth it in the end to do that most likely. especially if its a plant you really dont want to lose. Being as stunted as it is, its root system is going to be far more developed then most plants that size.

Hate to say it, but if thats what the plant looks like after over a month, and its an auto, that plant is never going to yield anything worth having around as long as its going to take. Hope its a photoperiod plant.


Personally, if it were me, id start a new one in proper soil from the beginning whether it was an auto or not. Itll be as big or bigger then that plant within 10 days of popping above soil. It would probably be the same size as that plant before that plant will totally even recover from such an intense transplant shock should you decide to go that route. If it was my only bean of that genepool though, id put a lot more effort into trying to save it.



If its a photoperiod plant and you dont have more from that genepool, or theres something particularly unique about the phenotype, it can still bounce back to 100% from the soil acidity issues, if its an auto, i know you really dont want to hear this, but probably start a new one with appropriate soil, that plants gonna yeild like an 8th tops most likely


Your most recent pics actually do look like health is turning up and some new growth is accelerating in dvelopment a bit. PLant is still very stunted though, it would prob be a couple weeks of amendment before the plant goes on into full force veg again.
i don’t see where you see anyone begging I asked a question they responded with the soil is an issues so i get new soil and asked a new question if you don’t like it move on
 
Thatoneguyyouknow_

Thatoneguyyouknow_

904
243
i don’t see where you see anyone begging I asked a question they responded with the soil is an issues so i get new soil and asked a new question if you don’t like it move on
i do genuinely apologize for being an asshat there.

Normally im very even mannered and i am sorry for even letting thinking that allow me to be a dick.

Welcome to thcfarmer and im sorry if i put a bad taste in your mouth here.

You have several options moving forward, if its a photoperiod plant and you;d liek to keep it around to learn from or its some genetics you dont have more of and really want to grow out, most the options have been covered. And if that plant is an autoflower you need to make that decision a week ago lol. Not to be an asshat there either.


If photoperiod, and you continue to water at the correct Ph it will just slowly come around on it's own but itll be a lot of waiting and plant stress and stunting on the way to that health.


The differing options given, are just that, viable and differing options lol. They are not conflicting information like may seem to a newer grower.
 
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