What’s wrong with this plant/leaves?

[brownred]

Can someone tell me what’s going on here? i thought it was light burn/bleaching but I’m not sure.

 

[az2000]

P def? Maybe overall hungry? What stage of growth? If it's early flower it could be hungry due to nute lockout (salt buildup in the soil).

What are you feeding?

 

[OldManRiver]

Doesn't look like light burn to me.

 

[Beachwalker]

Based on two pictures and no info I'll guess calcium

 

[Edinburgh]

Could be overwatering or feeding but allso could be a cal deficiency.

 

[brownred]

Could be overwatering or feeding but allso could be a cal deficiency.

I believe I have the watering down.

 

[brownred]

Sorry I should have mentioned the grow method. I am a beginner also and this is supposed to be an a organic grow.

3 seeds were started in solo cups. Seed 1 and 2 in Promix HP in one tent (pictured) and the (3) third seed in FFOF in another tent (which is not showing any negative sights). They were all mixed with a sprinkle Green Sunshine company’s Earth Dust Base.

Then they were transplanted in 1 gallon plastic pots with 1 TBS of Earth Dust Base. Seed 1 and 2 transplanted using Promix HP and seed 3 in FFOF. After the transplant is where 1 and 2 started showing the above signs. Then 1, 2 and 3 were transplanted into 5 gallon fabric pots with a 5 pound bag of Kind Soil Hot Soil in the bottom of each pot and filled the rest of way with FFOF.

1 and 2 still show the above signs and 3 still looks good.

I hope this all makes sense.

 

[Aqua Man]

Yeah look like both calcium and magnesium to me. But more importantly finding the root cause is what ya need. I wouldn't just start add cal mag. Usually it's not that there is to little but for some reason there is a problem with uptake. Could be ph, watering, root temps/health, bugs or other. I'm a hydro but the dirt guys should get ya sorted out.

 

[brownred]

Yeah look like both calcium and magnesium to me. But more importantly finding the root cause is what ya need. I wouldn't just start add cal mag. Usually it's not that there is to little but for some reason there is a problem with uptake. Could be ph, watering, root temps/health, bugs or other. I'm a hydro but the dirt guys should get ya sorted out.

There’s no bugs that I can see. I really believe I have the watering down. The root temp I high 70’s low 80’s
There are several grows under my belt and it’s been good for the most part. But... I’ve never tried this method.

 

[Aqua Man]

Like I said not a soil guy but maybe a slurry test on the soils to determine ph will help ya. I'm sure the soil guys will get it figured @Jimster @oldskol4evr @OldManRiver @MIMedGrower and I could make a list a mile long. I think @Beachwalker is right. Could be lockout as @az2000 suggested.

Like I said I'm a hydro guy.

 

[brownred]

Like I said not a soil guy but maybe a slurry test on the soils to determine ph will help ya. I'm sure the soil guys will get it figured @Jimster @oldskol4evr @OldManRiver @MIMedGrower and I could make a list a mile long. I think @Beachwalker is right. Could be lockout as @az2000 suggested.

Like I said I'm a hydro guy.

Okay, I’ve been watering with PH of 6.8 to 7.0 which is suggested with organic grow.
I will look into the PH further. But it’s of that #3 is doing fine with the same regimen.
Thank you all for your responses.

 

[Aqua Man]

Okay, I’ve been watering with PH of 6.8 to 7.0 which is suggested with organic grow.
I will look into the PH further. But it’s of that #3 is doing fine with the same regimen.
Thank you all for your responses.

Yeah I mean the ph of your soil. I'm thinking if all else was the same it may be the ph of your soil that could be different since that's the only difference that's jumps out at me. Your soil will buffer whatever you out into it. So if the ph of the soil is different you can add the same ph feed but it will likely not end up being the same ph in the soil. When making a new soil mix it's best to do a slurry test and confirm your soil pH is where you want it before you plant since it will have a huge impact on your ph throughout your grow.

I could be way off like I said I'm a hydro grower but doing will at least eliminate it as a concern.

 

[oldskol4evr]

Like I said not a soil guy but maybe a slurry test on the soils to determine ph will help ya. I'm sure the soil guys will get it figured @Jimster @oldskol4evr @OldManRiver @MIMedGrower and I could make a list a mile long. I think @Beachwalker is right. Could be lockout as @az2000 suggested.

Like I said I'm a hydro guy.

i got to disagree with you bro,hydro soiless or soil ,plants are plants all require same thing,takes talent to read them and your on top your game

 

[az2000]

Okay, I’ve been watering with PH of 6.8 to 7.0 which is suggested with organic grow.

I suggest watching your runoff ppm. That can suggest salt buildup (too strong nutrients, too little runoff. I don't ph my nutrients. I don't believe soil needs it.). What stage of growth is this?

 

[Jimster]

To me, it looks like a nute issue, not water or light burn. Promix shouldn't cause any problems that I can see. Promix HP has no added nutrients, so the only nutrients that 1 and 2 should get is from the FFOF that the remainder of the buckets are filled with. What type of water is being used? I have seen plants that were shocked when transitioning from a less nutrient dense medium to a hot medium, and I know the combination of FFOF and another brand of hot soil can cause issues from the nutrient overload alone. Some strains seem more sensitive than others as well.
Since I've grown in Promix for decades, it seems unlikely that the Promix itself is causing any problems, other than not having too much in the way of pre-loaded nutrients. The switch to the hotter mixes could have caused the problem, in my opinion. Also, what is the "Earth Dust Base"? Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not familiar with some of the newer products out there.
I think the problem is the plants in 1 & 2 were grown in Promix without much extras. When you transplanted them, 1 & 2 got the Promix again, with little nutrients. So now they have grown up to this point with little nutrients. The 2nd transplanting throws all three into a hot soil mix. ! and 2 are suffering from nutrient shock, as I call it, but also from a lack of nutrients from the 1st transplanting, when they were just starting to show the deficiencies. The damage really showed up more after the 2nd transplanting, when the combination of transplant shock and a hot new environment became apparent. So....
I think the best course of action with 1 and 2 would be to flush them to try to lower the nutrient levels... a PPM meter would be great for keeping tabs on it. I think they will all adjust to their new homes, but the Promix set might be lagging. I don't know about the water holding abilities of your FFOF and Hot Mix mix, but make sure that they don't get waterlogged if you decide to flush them out.
Anyhow, this is just a guess as to what happened based on past experience. There could always be the one seemingly unimportant piece of info that could change everything, but I think this is a fair scenario. I'm certainly open to other points of view. :)

 

[brownred]

I suggest watching your runoff ppm. That can suggest salt buildup (too strong nutrients, too little runoff. I don't ph my nutrients. I don't believe soil needs it.). What stage of growth is this?

I don’t water to run off. My understanding is you don’t water to run off with an organic grow.

 

[Jimster]

I don’t water to run off. My understanding is you don’t water to run off with an organic grow.

I don't grow in an organic medium, I use Promix. I don't think it matters too much what type of medium that you are using, but if it is a soil "like" medium, ie Promix, Coco, etc, it can hold water and nutrients. After a while, if the nutrients aren't used by the plant and doesn't drain out of the bottom of the container, they will begin to concentrate. Once concentrated, it acts the same way as a nutrient imbalance or a deficiency. The usual reaction when this happens is to dump Cal-Mag or more nutrients on it. This increases the nute buildup and concentration issues. Can you see the endless cycle?
This is the reason that I like to see some excess water drain out of the medium, and is also part of the reason that I only feed every 10-15 days instead of at every watering. These are just little things that can make big differences as you fine tune your growing procedure to best fit your situation. Organic is great, but it doesn't mean that the plants can't be easily destroyed by the organic stuff that is used. Keep the nutrients low and make sure that you have good drainage and you shouldn't have any problems. A TDS meter might help you to keep tabs on your medium's nutrient contents. Good Luck!!

 

[az2000]

I don’t water to run off. My understanding is you don’t water to run off with an organic grow.

I don't grow in an organic medium, I use Promix. I don't think it matters too much what type of medium that you are using, but if it is a soil "like" medium, ie Promix, Coco, etc, it can hold water and nutrients. After a while, if the nutrients aren't used by the plant and doesn't drain out of the bottom of the container, they will begin to concentrate. Once concentrated, it acts the same way as a nutrient imbalance or a deficiency. The usual reaction when this happens is to dump Cal-Mag or more nutrients on it. This increases the nute buildup and concentration issues. Can you see the endless cycle?
This is the reason that I like to see some excess water drain out of the medium, and is also part of the reason that I only feed every 10-15 days instead of at every watering. These are just little things that can make big differences as you fine tune your growing procedure to best fit your situation. Organic is great, but it doesn't mean that the plants can't be easily destroyed by the organic stuff that is used. Keep the nutrients low and make sure that you have good drainage and you shouldn't have any problems. A TDS meter might help you to keep tabs on your medium's nutrient contents. Good Luck!!

From what I've read, organic soil growers want to keep everything in the soil (nutrients, beneficial microbes). Let the plant use what it wants, when it wants. Don't wash things away. Be ultra conservative.

I'm more like you. I wipe the plate clean (a little) each watering, and replace the nutrients with a rebalanced mix. A little of both worlds. Not entirely synthetic nutrients. Not purley organic "let the soil and plant coexist as God intended them to." :) (I don't mean to be sarcastic that way. I'd like to grow a simple, complete living soil and see how it works. It makes sense in many ways.).

I don't know how runoff ppms would reflect on the soil's content in that case (when the content depends on microbes breaking down organic material). I don't know how that translates into salts, dissolved solids. That could be a limitation on measuring runoff ppm.

The only thing that would make me uneasy about not watering until runoff is that I'd never know if there were dry pockets in the soil. I.e., how do you know what's enough water without seeing excess running out?

It sounds like the OP should google about "teas." I think that's how total-living soil growers keep their soil balanced, rejuvinated. (I don't know much about it.).

 

[Jimster]

From what I've read, organic soil growers want to keep everything in the soil (nutrients, beneficial microbes). Let the plant use what it wants, when it wants. Don't wash things away. Be ultra conservative.

I'm more like you. I wipe the plate clean (a little) each watering, and replace the nutrients with a rebalanced mix. A little of both worlds. Not entirely synthetic nutrients. Not purley organic "let the soil and plant coexist as God intended them to." :) (I don't mean to be sarcastic that way. I'd like to grow a simple, complete living soil and see how it works. It makes sense in many ways.).

I don't know how runoff ppms would reflect on the soil's content in that case (when the content depends on microbes breaking down organic material). I don't know how that translates into salts, dissolved solids. That could be a limitation on measuring runoff ppm.

The only thing that would make me uneasy about not watering until runoff is that I'd never know if there were dry pockets in the soil. I.e., how do you know what's enough water without seeing excess running out?

It sounds like the OP should google about "teas." I think that's how total-living soil growers keep their soil balanced, rejuvinated. (I don't know much about it.).

I have answered a few posts recently about using the living soil, and varieties with it. I don't know much about it other than the suggested benefits of using it and trying to replicate the naturally existing nitrogen and nutrient cycle. This is more like growing mushrooms than growing Cannabis, but the point I wanted to make was that the Organic grows that I have offered my opinions on have had problems using straight organic materials. Cow manure is unbelievably high in ammonia while fresh, and when composted, has a very high nitrogen content. Despite this being natural and organic, it burned the shit out of the guy's plants. I guess the lesson is that organic is great but can have the same problems that non organic guys have. A TDS/PPM meter would show the high levels of nutrients in the soil, regardless of the origins of it. I prefer to know what I have put into the medium and try to keep things to a minimum as much as possible. I'm basically lazy and would rather feed a little too little than to have to deal with overfeeding issues.

 

[brownred]

Well #3 is showing the same signs as #1 and #2 have and #3 has been is FFOF since the start. I originally thought light burn/bleaching then a CalMag issue then nutrient shock for #1 and #2. Now I’m back to thinking a CalMag issue because all 3 are showing the same signs. I guess I’m going to add some organic CalMag and hope they’ll snap out of it and get use to the hot soil.