What Am I Looking For In A Fulvic/humic Product?

  • Thread starter likeliquid
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
L

likeliquid

23
13
Hey guys

Looking for some help. I know you many of you use Ful-Power and Cytokin/TM-7.

But I'm from South Africa with no access to these products. So I went hunting around for local sources of fulvic/humic and found these two options:

1) Bio-Fulvic Acid 25KG
Bio-Fulvic Acid is a blended liquid humic component, rich in fulvic acids.

Active Ingredients:
Total Fulvates - 700g/kg

Composition
Total Carbon - 504.5g/kg
Total Nitrogen - 25.6g/kg
Total Sulphur - 7.3g/kg
Maximum Moisture 11.7%

Application
Foliar: 1g:1 litre added to foliar fertilizers or to other compatible crop protection chemicals.
Can be applied fortnightly.
As a bio-active additive for plant nutrients: Add 1kg/ha Bio-Fulvic Acid with chemical fertilizers to enhance uptake of the fertilizer.
Soil Application: 1kg/ha, to enhance microbial activity

2) Potassium Humate 95%
Soil Conditioner, derived from Leonardite.


Active Ingredients:

Humic Acid - 650g/kg
Potassium - 100g/kg

General Application of Granular Potassium Humate:
Fruit trees:
7 - 15kg/ha/annum, every 2 weeks during growing season.

Mixing of Potassium Humate:

Do not mix more than 16kg Potassium Humate per 100L of water. This solution will provide on average 16% potassium Humate in solution. ALways add Potassium humate to water and mix well with lots of agitation. To increase solubility WETTA can be added at 100ml per 100L water to this mixture during agitation.

General Application of liquid Potassium Humate:
Can be used as Foliar

Greenhouse Vegetables:
4 to 5L/ha, weekly
Fruit Trees: 8 to 16L/ha, weekly

Special usage of Potassion Humate:
Seed Treatment:
200g/100kg small seeds or 125g/100kg large seeds
Root dipping: 30g/20L water
Seed bed treatment: 100g/100km^2
Compost Enrichment: 1.5kg/cubic meter

Hoping some of you experienced farmers can chime in and help me out. Wish I had Ful-Power and Cytokin or whatever would make life much easier. Just tell me which you would choose and why, so that I can understand what makes a good fulvic/humic product.

By the way I didn't copy paste anything, had to type that all out by hand lol.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
dilligaf

dilligaf

236
63
since I don't try to force feed my babies I don't use these products ...but after typing all that I hope someone who knows will help you out ...good luck to you

D
 
L

likeliquid

23
13
since I don't try to force feed my babies I don't use these products ...but after typing all that I hope someone who knows will help you out ...good luck to you

D

Interesting.

Does adding fulvic/humic constitute as force feeding (in organic terms)? I wasn't going to get Fulvic/Humic but I saw some other Organic Farmers using this and their buds usually look beautiful. But I wouldn't want to force feed, I want the plant to grow its maximum genetic potential. Force feeding makes it sound like it would manipulate and alter the true genetic expression of the plant. I'm not up for that...

Anyone else have some thoughts?

Thanks for your help @dilligaf
 
L

likeliquid

23
13
As far as my limited understanding goes, the fulvic acid is supposed to help with nutrient assimilation. So there's more down-time in terms of production for the plant, which in turn results in better, bigger fruit/flowers.

This seems more like efficiency than force-feeding, but I'm open to criticism as I'm new to organic growing. Used to do hydro but my current op doesn't really allow for hydro.. And to be honest there is something about rock hard, huge almost mutant looking buds you get from hydro with bloom boosters etc. I want to focus more on growing different strains and hybrids to allow for them to fully express themselves genetic, so as to enjoy the nuances and differences between strains. That is another reason for leaving hydro behind..

I just don't understand, doesn't the plant just take what it needs? Or does Fulvic acid force the plant to uptake more than it would have if she was left to her own devices?
 
dilligaf

dilligaf

236
63
it is my understanding that they are used for chelating nutrients...not completely sure since I never intended to use liquids for anything other than teas...i usually run sativa Dom strains and I only add water or a tea twice a month...someone who really knows what they are doing should reply soon...you are lucky to live where some of my favorite genetics come from...best of luck to you

D
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
Hey guys

Looking for some help. I know you many of you use Ful-Power and Cytokin/TM-7.

But I'm from South Africa with no access to these products. So I went hunting around for local sources of fulvic/humic and found these two options:

1) Bio-Fulvic Acid 25KG
Bio-Fulvic Acid is a blended liquid humic component, rich in fulvic acids.

Active Ingredients:
Total Fulvates - 700g/kg

Composition
Total Carbon - 504.5g/kg
Total Nitrogen - 25.6g/kg
Total Sulphur - 7.3g/kg
Maximum Moisture 11.7%

Application
Foliar:
1g:1 litre added to foliar fertilizers or to other compatible crop protection chemicals.
Can be applied fortnightly.
As a bio-active additive for plant nutrients: Add 1kg/ha Bio-Fulvic Acid with chemical fertilizers to enhance uptake of the fertilizer.
Soil Application: 1kg/ha, to enhance microbial activity

2) Potassium Humate 95%
Soil Conditioner, derived from Leonardite.


Active Ingredients:

Humic Acid - 650g/kg
Potassium - 100g/kg

General Application of Granular Potassium Humate:
Fruit trees:
7 - 15kg/ha/annum, every 2 weeks during growing season.

Mixing of Potassium Humate:

Do not mix more than 16kg Potassium Humate per 100L of water. This solution will provide on average 16% potassium Humate in solution. ALways add Potassium humate to water and mix well with lots of agitation. To increase solubility WETTA can be added at 100ml per 100L water to this mixture during agitation.

General Application of liquid Potassium Humate:
Can be used as Foliar

Greenhouse Vegetables:
4 to 5L/ha, weekly
Fruit Trees: 8 to 16L/ha, weekly

Special usage of Potassion Humate:
Seed Treatment:
200g/100kg small seeds or 125g/100kg large seeds
Root dipping: 30g/20L water
Seed bed treatment: 100g/100km^2
Compost Enrichment: 1.5kg/cubic meter

Hoping some of you experienced farmers can chime in and help me out. Wish I had Ful-Power and Cytokin or whatever would make life much easier. Just tell me which you would choose and why, so that I can understand what makes a good fulvic/humic product.

By the way I didn't copy paste anything, had to type that all out by hand lol.

Thanks for the help guys.
It looks like you have access to darn near the same sort of thing, and that's really the point. So, now that you've got your humic, you will need to reduce your overall feeding strength because the action of this suite of acids is chelation, which makes nutrients much more readily available. Start reducing by about 25%, and watch closely for signs of nutrient burn as that will be your first sign you need to reduce the strength of the feeds.
Interesting.

Does adding fulvic/humic constitute as force feeding (in organic terms)? I wasn't going to get Fulvic/Humic but I saw some other Organic Farmers using this and their buds usually look beautiful. But I wouldn't want to force feed, I want the plant to grow its maximum genetic potential. Force feeding makes it sound like it would manipulate and alter the true genetic expression of the plant. I'm not up for that...

Anyone else have some thoughts?

Thanks for your help @dilligaf
Not for me, it doesn't qualify as "force feeding." To me, force feeding means you're feeding at the highest rates you possibly can without killing your plants. It's wasteful, IMO.
 
L

likeliquid

23
13
It looks like you have access to darn near the same sort of thing, and that's really the point. So, now that you've got your humic, you will need to reduce your overall feeding strength because the action of this suite of acids is chelation, which makes nutrients much more readily available. Start reducing by about 25%, and watch closely for signs of nutrient burn as that will be your first sign you need to reduce the strength of the feeds.

Wow couldn't ask for a better answer... Thank you @Seamaiden

Would I use the application rates provided on the label?

Also, thank you for pointing that out, about the 25% feed reduction. noted. Coulda cost me there :p

it is my understanding that they are used for chelating nutrients...not completely sure since I never intended to use liquids for anything other than teas...i usually run sativa Dom strains and I only add water or a tea twice a month...someone who really knows what they are doing should reply soon...you are lucky to live where some of my favorite genetics come from...best of luck to you

D

haha thanks homie. Mind telling me which genetics you enjoy from here, and when did u 'sample' them? Would be interesting to know :)

You obviously like your heart racing psychoactive no-crash sativa borderline paranoid vibe :D.... I'm smoking on some outdoor grown unknown bud, think its transkei or malawi... Very strong and looks beautiful and smells like synthetic fruity... There are seeds here and there but the bud is dankkk and I'm smoking it right next to some indoor coco well grown cheese covered in trichs and this unknown bush bud competes if not cuts through dat cheese.. Mind you bush bud "x" is also covered in trichs... it hits damn hard - red eyes and totally wrecked ... if i smoke too much I get paranoid, feels like my i need the hospital cause heart is beating too fast and my head feels like I could pass out ROFL. almost too much and I have a high tolerance... But it can really just be too much...

And funny thing is, absolutely NO crash...... Not good for night though, kinda why I'm still up at this hour o_O
 
dilligaf

dilligaf

236
63
Wow couldn't ask for a better answer... Thank you @Seamaiden

Would I use the application rates provided on the label?

Also, thank you for pointing that out, about the 25% feed reduction. noted. Coulda cost me there :p



haha thanks homie. Mind telling me which genetics you enjoy from here, and when did u 'sample' them? Would be interesting to know :)

You obviously like your heart racing psychoactive no-crash sativa borderline paranoid vibe :D.... I'm smoking on some outdoor grown unknown bud, think its transkei or malawi... Very strong and looks beautiful and smells like synthetic fruity... There are seeds here and there but the bud is dankkk and I'm smoking it right next to some indoor coco well grown cheese covered in trichs and this unknown bush bud competes if not cuts through dat cheese.. Mind you bush bud "x" is also covered in trichs... it hits damn hard - red eyes and totally wrecked ... if i smoke too much I get paranoid, feels like my i need the hospital cause heart is beating too fast and my head feels like I could pass out ROFL. almost too much and I have a high tolerance... But it can really just be too much...

And funny thing is, absolutely NO crash...... Not good for night though, kinda why I'm still up at this hour o_O

Durban and Malawi were the strains I have tried....the Durban I got in trade from a member at a different forum...the Malawi was some a friend grew...wish I had made seeds of the Durban...can't find any except for Dutch passion..am told it is a watered down version...currently the only sativa beans I have that are freaky potent are black Forrest...a cross rev made...Vietnam black crossed with a Hawaiian cherry bomb he created...it is a 16 week strain...i have had people get sick because they over indulged too quick...it is not for the faint of heart...lol
 
dilligaf

dilligaf

236
63
forgot to add this was 4 or so years ago...only straight up Malawi I know of is from ace seeds...its on my wish list...lol...and Santa isn't bringing me any...been a bad boy I guess
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
Wow couldn't ask for a better answer... Thank you @Seamaiden

Would I use the application rates provided on the label?

Also, thank you for pointing that out, about the 25% feed reduction. noted. Coulda cost me there :p
Yes, it can really fry the plants if you don't account for that chelation effect. Yes, start with the *lowest* application rate on the label. I've never burned with humics, but I have burned after using humics.

Btw, I believe strongly that the paranoia thing is from those plants being harvested too early, but then it's been YEARS (decades) since I've toked any African Sattie. :o
 
dutch69lover

dutch69lover

127
43
Next time get some Oxidized Lignite and mix it in your soil.... This powder is a natural source great for soil mixes!
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom