What is happening to this baby?

[erb4all]

How did you see these mites? Scope? What power? Bare eyes?

OP isn't explaining things well enough...I went back to page 3 where I seen the mite discussion pickup...lol...i didn't see him post how he knows he's got them...

He did in his 1st post..nvm then. Im getting reading glasses my eyes are too old

 

[Bdubs]

Light determines everything else. Depending upon where and what you have your lights set at and how much you are giving her is going to determine deficiencies. Let’s go guys! If you are having deficiencies, reduce the light and get everything else on par with the light. If you are unable or unwilling to increase nutrients because you are in flower which would be smart not to, then just reduce the light you are giving her. Way less negatives to just reduce the light received. This is all about Light Limit Factor/Rule. No mas chasing with nutrients or flushes. Step it back on her see what happens.

 

[wollywonka]

I've flushed her today, not a heavy one.. Ph of spill was 6.7, ec 1400us/cm, 0.07% salt.
I'm going to feed her just water and see what happens.

 

[erb4all]

I've flushed her today, not a heavy one.. Ph of spill was 6.7, ec 1400us/cm, 0.07% salt.
I'm going to feed her just water and see what happens.

I'm going to just say it...phuk it....finish her off and kill the mites...YOUR ISSUE IS BECUASE OF CALCIUM DEF/IMBALACE BECAUSE OF THE MITE INFESTATION(MOST LIKELY)...KILL THE GD MITES

DO WHAT GNICK TOLD YOU TO DO...GEESH!!!

 

[Eledin]

While I agree that he should kill the mites asap I dont think thats whats making the plant be so fucked up. Ill say it again, not nearly enough bite marks, completely burned tips (top and bottom canopy so probably not just the light) and deficiency in others. Ive had infestations where I had major mite damage and not a single leaf changed from green to yellow until they were absolutely covered on bite marks. The plant is a mess and a few mites alone are not gonna cause that.

 

[Eledin]

I've flushed her today, not a heavy one.. Ph of spill was 6.7, ec 1400us/cm, 0.07% salt.
I'm going to feed her just water and see what happens.

You depleted the soil from most nutrients. Judging by the EC you still have some left which makes sense considering you didnt completely flush. There's no such thing in my mind as a heavy flush and a light flush, you either flush or you dont. You didnt fully flush but hopefully itll be enough to restore balance in the soil after the plant left the soil with umbalanced nutrients because of umbalanced uptake. Watch out because she might get hungry soon, if you see more yellowing on the first set of leaves start feeding again and if youre only gonna give them water the next watering, the one after that feed them.

 

[Eledin]

Im revisiting pictures and old posts, you said you have your panels at 600umols? Thats almost half of what they should be getting, that could have caused nute burn due to lack of light to process the nutrients and also nute deficiency because of the same reason. Also plants go pale when they dont have enough light. Im not saying its that or only that, just trying to compile more info and making sure everything is okay with the parameters.

 

[Eledin]

I'm going to just say it...phuk it....finish her off and kill the mites...YOUR ISSUE IS BECUASE OF CALCIUM DEF/IMBALACE BECAUSE OF THE MITE INFESTATION(MOST LIKELY)...KILL THE GD MITES

DO WHAT GNICK TOLD YOU TO DO...GEESH!!!

Im gonna quote the OP here because he already tried the calcium deficiency and people keep bringing it up, the plant only got worse after those 2 applications.
"Steps taken since beginning of this thread:
- feeded calmag 2.4 ml total
- 3 days later (yesterday) full feed schedule with extra K"

 

[Eledin]

Light determines everything else. Depending upon where and what you have your lights set at and how much you are giving her is going to determine deficiencies. Let’s go guys! If you are having deficiencies, reduce the light and get everything else on par with the light. If you are unable or unwilling to increase nutrients because you are in flower which would be smart not to, then just reduce the light you are giving her. Way less negatives to just reduce the light received. This is all about Light Limit Factor/Rule. No mas chasing with nutrients or flushes. Step it back on her see what happens.

If he is at 600umols the least he needs is to reduce light. He is using a 150W panel either at 50% capacity or way too far from the plants. Sorry I dont mean to be a dick but the last time you gave him advice his plant got worse... (maybe not because of your suggestion of feeding calcium but it didnt get better) and now youre ingoring the fact that he is only at 600umols, thats ridiculously low. Please dont get mad at me

 

[wollywonka]

Regarding the PPFD: 600umol x 18h = 38,8 DLI
From what i read optimal DLI for HEALTHY plants is 45, so 700 PPFD.

The mites are ok and not a huge issue, plant is not covered in them and the few remaining are being killed.. So it's not that i'm ignoring them completely...

 

[erb4all]

Regarding the PPFD: 600umol x 18h = 38,8 DLI
From what i read optimal DLI for HEALTHY plants is 45, so 700 PPFD.

The mites are ok and not a huge issue, plant is not covered in them and the few remaining are being killed.. So it's not that i'm ignoring them completely...

Crank up your lights for a few days/week see if any changes occur. Keep us posted....the xtra K could be causing higher N needs. Taxing the plant like that isn't good..especially under low light levels...from 600 to 700 is only an 18% increase in light.

Would that really cause yellowing? Depends on feed. In your situation it just might be...I'll sit back and watch...

 

[wollywonka]

Crank up your lights for a few days/week see if any changes occur. Keep us posted....the xtra K could be causing higher N needs. Taxing the plant like that isn't good..especially under low light levels...from 600 to 700 is only an 18% increase in light.

Would that really cause yellowing? Depends on feed. In your situation it just might be...I'll sit back and watch...

Sorry, but with the few good leaves she has left i'm more inclined to believe that high light could only do more damage... 600ppfd is not low light, and weak plants may suffer more with strong light. At least i feel so to be true. Let's see how long she survives, i may have a low thc yield but i may harvest super early.. I tried a small side bud and she tastes amazing anyway

 

[Bdubs]

The temperature has more to do with it than the light distance.

Light limit rule guys.

Temps: 27-32
Light:600ppfd is 25.94 DLI
CO2: none

Your temps have you watering every 2 days. Which lowering nutrients would be the corrective action. Because you’re forcing her to drink hard from that water loss. Your PPM of runoff is high because she is locked out from salts and roots are dehydrating due to salt buildup. Lower temps and slow her drinking from the soil. Thats going to be step number one. Lower temps and get VPD 1.2-1.5 if you can. Get her metabolism proper. She is drinking like a fish and locking out.

It only took me the first factor of the rule to determine first step correction. Calmag doesn’t hurt a bit. Maybe the light is low but she can’t take more if she is locked out.

Flush is probably a smart choice. But you gotta fix the temps. Temps are the biggest deal here for you. If you are cooking in the 80s and your light is at 25.94 DLI, it’s going to be very difficult to have more light without cooking them hotter. If your limited on the light because of temps, lower nutrients with that 2 day feed interval or she will lock up.

We’ve been lookin at this for a hot minute and temps is the biggest concern of everything else. Because it is what is causing the problems in the first place. Metabolism and transpiration is high and she is locked out.

That flush and then going back to a slightly lower PPM of feed is going to help if you have to stay high temps.

 

[Bdubs]

I know temps cause 2 day watering. I did it this last run. My ppm runoff went to 1500 and I posted it in the Plants In Flower thread. I foxtailed, I even popped bananas at week 6 because of the high temps and constant feeding, because I feed every time. I was feeding light at like 700ppm max too. So even feeding light with high temps can lockout and PPM creep. It’s hard to identify if you don’t runoff check every time. Of course in my example here I did skip 3 runoff checks being lazy thinking I was going light feed and it should be good. I stayed super green but I had tip curl down most of that time. Once I corrected it after a few days my leafs aimed to the light and prayed. I took runoff from that 1500 down to ~400. She stayed around ~400-600 after resuming (I performed two water only no runoff and then continued original light feed).

 

[wollywonka]

The temperature has more to do with it than the light distance.

Light limit rule guys.

Temps: 27-32
Light:600ppfd is 25.94 DLI
CO2: none

Your temps have you watering every 2 days. Which lowering nutrients would be the corrective action. Because you’re forcing her to drink hard from that water loss. Your PPM of runoff is high because she is locked out from salts and roots are dehydrating due to salt buildup. Lower temps and slow her drinking from the soil. Thats going to be step number one. Lower temps and get VPD 1.2-1.5 if you can. Get her metabolism proper. She is drinking like a fish and locking out.

It only took me the first factor of the rule to determine first step correction. Calmag doesn’t hurt a bit. Maybe the light is low but she can’t take more if she is locked out.

Flush is probably a smart choice. But you gotta fix the temps. Temps are the biggest deal here for you. If you are cooking in the 80s and your light is at 25.94 DLI, it’s going to be very difficult to have more light without cooking them hotter. If your limited on the light because of temps, lower nutrients with that 2 day feed interval or she will lock up.

We’ve been lookin at this for a hot minute and temps is the biggest concern of everything else. Because it is what is causing the problems in the first place. Metabolism and transpiration is high and she is locked out.

That flush and then going back to a slightly lower PPM of feed is going to help if you have to stay high temps.

No DLI is 38.8 as this is an auto so 18h not 12h.
600 is low for a photoperiodic alright!
Lately temps here have decreased a lot so she lives the 17-24 °C range which should be optimal at this stage..

 

[Bdubs]

You are good. You’re doing the right thing. I like to over think things and come off pushy. I spill info and like to share experiences for others enlightenment. I am not always right.

Anything gained from forums is to be analyzed and put into perspective for the OP. There is a low chance first glance recommendations are the root cause of issues. Identifying is only part of the solution when it comes to deficiencies and it always takes the less experienced for a roller coaster ride. I’ve been on a lot of rides.

 

[Eledin]

Sorry, but with the few good leaves she has left i'm more inclined to believe that high light could only do more damage... 600ppfd is not low light, and weak plants may suffer more with strong light. At least i feel so to be true. Let's see how long she survives, i may have a low thc yield but i may harvest super early.. I tried a small side bud and she tastes amazing anyway

"The PPFD for flowering stage is typically recommended to be in the range of 600-900 µmol/m²/s, and sometimes up to 1000 µmol/m²/s. Sufficient light ensures vibrant blooms and bountiful yields."

How Much PPFD Do Your Indoor Plants Need

PPFD is super important for indoor gardening, but do you really know what PPFD is and how much light your plants need? Check out our complete guide here.

www.mars-hydro.com

I push mine to 1000, if they want more food I give more food, never had a problem with light except a few yellow tips maybe if they stretch a lot and I dont pull the lights in time. That said maybe is better for you to keep it low, just telling you what I would do.

 

[wollywonka]

You are good. You’re doing the right thing. I like to over think things and come off pushy. I spill info and like to share experiences for others enlightenment. I am not always right.

Anything gained from forums is to be analyzed and put into perspective for the OP. There is a low chance first glance recommendations are the root cause of issues. Identifying is only part of the solution when it comes to deficiencies and it always takes the less experienced for a roller coaster ride. I’ve been on a lot of rides.

Thanks dude! I'm grateful for every kind contribution, but in the end it's me who sees the plant daily. All your contributions have been read and considered no worries :D

 

[GNick55]

get rid of the mites,.

 

[wollywonka]

"The PPFD for flowering stage is typically recommended to be in the range of 600-900 µmol/m²/s, and sometimes up to 1000 µmol/m²/s. Sufficient light ensures vibrant blooms and bountiful yields."

How Much PPFD Do Your Indoor Plants Need

PPFD is super important for indoor gardening, but do you really know what PPFD is and how much light your plants need? Check out our complete guide here.

www.mars-hydro.com

I push mine to 1000, if they want more food I give more food, never had a problem with light except a few yellow tips maybe if they stretch a lot and I dont pull the lights in time. That said maybe is better for you to keep it low, just telling you what I would do.

Sure mate, but digging around you also find that optimal ppfds are for healthy plants, if the plant is in distress and you push higher in order to compensate you probably end up frying her for good.

You have 4 elements to consider on the aerial part (temp, humidity, CO2, wind) and 4 on the root part (temp, nutes, oxygen, water) all have to be optimal to push high ppfds. When you blaze them with high watts you need to ponder all of this