What nute causes leaf to taco

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Panhead59

Panhead59

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Yeah, I think it was watering day when I took pics. Could be though, I let em get pretty darn light before I water. Right at the moment, it's approx. 4-6 day intervals. 1/2 gal. Each. Gives me about 1 pint runoff while watering completely and slowly.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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@BionicKroniK, read above.

@Panhead59 , I'm glad to hear that she is not getting the morphine machine. I hate those.
Have you been to the recpie section of the forum?
 
Panhead59

Panhead59

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@BionicKroniK, read above.

@Panhead59 , I'm glad to hear that she is not getting the morphine machine. I hate those.
Have you been to the recpie section of the forum?
Bottom line there is anything that will show up in drug test from Dr. And he'll cut her off all pain meds. She's between a rock and a hard place, as the saying goes.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Ok first off at 20k lux is about right for those plants atm. Plants handle light intensity differently based on genetics, plant/leaf temp, VPD/transpiration rates and many other factors.

But when finding the ideal intensity one thing often missed is the duration of the light cycle and this has a huge impact on the intensity they can handle.

Eg. 24/0 with that intensity I can see it would be very possible to be light stress.

Maybe even 20/4 but under 18/6 I say that intensity is about right for a healthy plant that size.

So assuming 18/6 I'll temporarily rule out light stress.

Now bugs like mites IMO you would see a much more pronounced tacoing, Starting at the inner part (closest to the petiole) portion starting to curl in the hardest. So I'll temporarily rule out bugs.

That kinda leaves me thinking one of three things or combination of the following. With the serrations spiking and not much curling it may just be asking for a bump up in magnesium.

Or they are getting just a bit to much of direct airflow (wind) from fans.

Humidity possibly to low. I can't remember if you stated it but I'll look back after.

I will add that your ppm of runoff is something you need to take with a grain of salt and I wouldn't read to much into it. The reason I say that is you have an organically amended soil and seeing ppm of 2000-3000 is not that uncommon. Ppm is not a good indication of the amount of available nutrients in an amended soil because there are many things that will contribute to the ppm that are not nutrients.

So in general I would always lower the light intensity when encountering an issue with your plants. Light is what drives the plant and the more you give it the higher demand is on the plant. So that means if you have an issue it will get worse faster under more light.

I'd drop the light back a bit. (Sometimes lux meters depending on the phone can be way off so unless you have tested against a known meter keep that in mind).

The node spacing will be in part contributes by genetics, light spectrum (not so much intensity unless it very low) and your day/night temperature difference.

A light closer to 3000K will grow a plant with longer internode spacing than a light with 4000K ( basically more red leaning lore spacing )

The temp difference between day and night can also impact node spacing quite a bit. Try keeping your night temps a bit warmer.

The last thing is if you are using any nutes containing PGRs?
 
Panhead59

Panhead59

360
63
Ok first off at 20k lux is about right for those plants atm. Plants handle light intensity differently based on genetics, plant/leaf temp, VPD/transpiration rates and many other factors.

But when finding the ideal intensity one thing often missed is the duration of the light cycle and this has a huge impact on the intensity they can handle.

Eg. 24/0 with that intensity I can see it would be very possible to be light stress.

Maybe even 20/4 but under 18/6 I say that intensity is about right for a healthy plant that size.

So assuming 18/6 I'll temporarily rule out light stress.

Now bugs like mites IMO you would see a much more pronounced tacoing, Starting at the inner part (closest to the petiole) portion starting to curl in the hardest. So I'll temporarily rule out bugs.

That kinda leaves me thinking one of three things or combination of the following. With the serrations spiking and not much curling it may just be asking for a bump up in magnesium.

Or they are getting just a bit to much of direct airflow (wind) from fans.

Humidity possibly to low. I can't remember if you stated it but I'll look back after.

I will add that your ppm of runoff is something you need to take with a grain of salt and I wouldn't read to much into it. The reason I say that is you have an organically amended soil and seeing ppm of 2000-3000 is not that uncommon. Ppm is not a good indication of the amount of available nutrients in an amended soil because there are many things that will contribute to the ppm that are not nutrients.

So in general I would always lower the light intensity when encountering an issue with your plants. Light is what drives the plant and the more you give it the higher demand is on the plant. So that means if you have an issue it will get worse faster under more light.

I'd drop the light back a bit. (Sometimes lux meters depending on the phone can be way off so unless you have tested against a known meter keep that in mind).

The node spacing will be in part contributes by genetics, light spectrum (not so much intensity unless it very low) and your day/night temperature difference.

A light closer to 3000K will grow a plant with longer internode spacing than a light with 4000K ( basically more red leaning lore spacing )

The temp difference between day and night can also impact node spacing quite a bit. Try keeping your night temps a bit warmer.

The last thing is if you are using any nutes containing PGRs?
Tks for all the replies. No bugs, checked with scope hooked up to phone. No PGR'S. Rh was in low 40's, mid 50's at night. Upped 5 %. Lights on 12/12 as of 1 wk. Ago. Now 27" above canopy, was 30"". Leaving there for now, plants doing good. No discoloration. Stretch seems to have started, growing good. Also seeing some "hairs". Most likely starting to flower. I will up cal-mag next feeding. I feed everyother watering with 1/3-1/2 rec. Dose of FF gig bloom, kelp me kelp yoy, and wholly mackeral. Any advise on nutes much appreciated especially if changes are warrented now that flowering is very near ? For example, ff says to back off the whooly mac. Altogether. And that would accomplish backing off N as WMac has 3 % N. Also redirected fan as it was arguably a little strong and/or direct. Again, tks. For all replies !!!!!
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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Since the plant is young, I doubt the roots are bad unless you re-used toxic soil.
The coloration of the one plant is lighter than the other, this says genetics or iron, or a combination of both.
Especially since it's the entire plant.

@Aqua Man is right, bug leaves have a different curl shape, but it never hurt to check just in case.

I think we decided this was mostly related to light last time we saw it.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Since the plant is young, I doubt the roots are bad unless you re-used toxic soil.
The coloration of the one plant is lighter than the other, this says genetics or iron, or a combination of both.
Especially since it's the entire plant.

@Aqua Man is right, bug leaves have a different curl shape, but it never hurt to check just in case.

I think we decided this was mostly related to light last time we saw it.
Yeah I can't say it isn't light brother... and my rule of thumb which is one of the only hard rules I can actually think of is....

If the plant has an issue.... first order of business is back the light off to slow the progression until you get it sorted.
 
Panhead59

Panhead59

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Yeah I can't say it isn't light brother... and my rule of thumb which is one of the only hard rules I can actually think of is....

If the plant has an issue.... first order of business is back the light off to slow the progression until you get it sorted.
Done. Tks.
 

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