What PH to feed from veg to flower?

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Spartom16

Spartom16

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I just want to make sure I'm doing things right. And hear some ppls opinions. I grow in coco and so I start off with the clones in 7.5 L pots and they stay there for 5 weeks. Than they get transplanted to 50L and stay in veg for 5 more weeks.
Week 1 I go ph 5.6 - 5.7
Week 2-3 5.8- 5. 9
Week 4-7 6.0
Week 7-10 6.1-6.2
In flower I go 6. 3 until the last 2 weeks after that I go 6.4 - 6.5
Im kind of new to growing, I should probably be testing the run off. To test the run off do you adjust the Ph of the water? And if so to what ph? And what should Ph and ppm be for the run off? Thanks in advance
 
JASONBROTHER

JASONBROTHER

206
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I just want to make sure I'm doing things right. And hear some ppls opinions. I grow in coco and so I start off with the clones in 7.5 L pots and they stay there for 5 weeks. Than they get transplanted to 50L and stay in veg for 5 more weeks.
Week 1 I go ph 5.6 - 5.7
Week 2-3 5.8- 5. 9
Week 4-7 6.0
Week 7-10 6.1-6.2
In flower I go 6. 3 until the last 2 weeks after that I go 6.4 - 6.5
Im kind of new to growing, I should probably be testing the run off. To test the run off do you adjust the Ph of the water? And if so to what ph? And what should Ph and ppm be for the run off? Thanks in advance
That depends on your Coco soil condition,but the optimal run off ph is(5.8-6.0 in Veg) ,(6.0-6.2 in Photoperiod)。
I have bad COCO soil condition, But in order to achieve the correct run off pH, I used to try with 5.3-5.4 watering with nutrition, and plants are all healthy, without any problems.

At first, I worried that if the pH was too low, it would lead to the absorption of calmag. Later, I felt that as long as the pH of run off was kept within a reasonable range, there would be almost no problem. As for the PPM you said, everyone has their own method. It's too difficult for me to answer this question.

Good luck, brother



.
 
Lp_jr

Lp_jr

89
18
Good advice from JB.

I use and follow Veg Blooms recommendation for the most part. So in coco, 5.8-6.1. When I tried getting fancy on the lower end of the spectrum, it caused a shit ton of issues that took a long time to correct. KISS.
 
Spartom16

Spartom16

11
3
That depends on your Coco soil condition,but the optimal run off ph is(5.8-6.0 in Veg) ,(6.0-6.2 in Photoperiod)。
I have bad COCO soil condition, But in order to achieve the correct run off pH, I used to try with 5.3-5.4 watering with nutrition, and plants are all healthy, without any problems.

At first, I worried that if the pH was too low, it would lead to the absorption of calmag. Later, I felt that as long as the pH of run off was kept within a reasonable range, there would be almost no problem. As for the PPM you said, everyone has their own method. It's too difficult for me to answer this question.

Good luck, brother



.
What do you mean by coco condition?
I use the brand mokoko but I'm not sure what the condition of the coco means.
 
Spartom16

Spartom16

11
3
You do a 7-10 week veg in coco? Holy moly, how big are your plants?

Anyway yeah I do similar just not as high. And I only veg for 3-4 weeks using clones, 5-6 using seeds. I veg at 5.7, flower i start at 5.8, mid flower is 5.8-6, late flower i do 6-6.2 or so.
They get to like 6' sometimes 7' that's from the ground including the pot.
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

Supporter
9,158
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Wow, that's tall for indoor. Do you side light them or something? I've seen trees indoors where the grower splits the plant into a giant V shape and hangs a lamp in the middle, or grown in a checkerboard pattern with plants and vertical hung lights alternating.
 
Spartom16

Spartom16

11
3
Wow, that's tall for indoor. Do you side light them or something? I've seen trees indoors where the grower splits the plant into a giant V shape and hangs a lamp in the middle, or grown in a checkerboard pattern with plants and vertical hung lights alternating.
I have a high ceeling room, I use cages to pull out the branches so the plant is nice and open and the light gets in. Also I strip the plants completely day 1 and 20
 
JASONBROTHER

JASONBROTHER

206
43
You do a 7-10 week veg in coco? Holy moly, how big are your plants?

Anyway yeah I do similar just not as high. And I only veg for 3-4 weeks using clones, 5-6 using seeds. I veg at 5.7, flower i start at 5.8, mid flower is 5.8-6, late flower i do 6-6.2 or so.
Hey. I bought new Coco yesterday.
Which only contains
What do you mean by coco condition?
I use the brand mokoko but I'm not sure what the condition of the coco means.
Cool. nice.
Good conditions with stable balance pH and lower ec.
Otherwise, u will do hard flush work, just liked me
Flush , squeeze,flush
 
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JASONBROTHER

JASONBROTHER

206
43
Wow, that's tall for indoor. Do you side light them or something? I've seen trees indoors where the grower splits the plant into a giant V shape and hangs a lamp in the middle, or grown in a checkerboard pattern with plants and vertical hung lights alternating.
Trees indoor are looked awesome, that just need to waste too much nutritions in it .
But I already prepare 8 gallon pot in my living room, not just for good harvesting,but also for have good feelings.
I wish someday I could buy some professional Coco soil brands,
But first thing first ,I need to transplanted abroad,LOL.
I like soil culture indeed ,
Even those autocontrol hydroponics or aeroponics I can easily get from local manufacturers with safe and lower price , but I am still not interested at all.
But once I thought that I could only get those higher EC with highest pH Coco soil products which really made me have headache.
 
Timbola420

Timbola420

9
3
Between 6.0 and 6.5 all the way through. I set the tank to 6.0 and let drift up to 6.5 by which time its normally time for a top up, set back to 6.0 when topping up.
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
i run 6 from start to finish and keep my ec in check for stage of growth,that said 900 ppm is my max and makes things a damn site better coming backwards to flush nutes back out for the end game,by reverse feeding time i get back to starting point of 250ppm for seedling stage,all i have to do is turn off lights ,no feed for a week or so,checking for snap on stems,and then harvest my smoke,no cure just smoke it.
i dont use silica either,cages instead.veg for month ,flip and finish plants,when i see the first cloudy bud,i start walking backwards with feed and ppm ,call it the slow cure in the pot haaahah,works good for me,and smell is contained while it dry for the snap,from there i just cut my buds off into jars ,once done pull the plant from the coco and compost it
 
Zakattack

Zakattack

115
28
Reading on what everyone is saying I feel like I’ve been doing it slightly wrong. I was under impression 5.8 was the most ideal from seed to harvest . Also still tryna figure out what’s Actually best.
One thing I’ve noticed is my reservoir which lasts me a week climbs 0.2 over the week I think because of the aeration from what I’ve read up on .. probly gona start climbing my ph to meet a start of 6.0 towards the final weeks
 
Lp_jr

Lp_jr

89
18
i run 6 from start to finish and keep my ec in check for stage of growth,that said 900 ppm is my max and makes things a damn site better coming backwards to flush nutes back out for the end game,by reverse feeding time i get back to starting point of 250ppm for seedling stage,all i have to do is turn off lights ,no feed for a week or so,checking for snap on stems,and then harvest my smoke,no cure just smoke it.
i dont use silica either,cages instead.veg for month ,flip and finish plants,when i see the first cloudy bud,i start walking backwards with feed and ppm ,call it the slow cure in the pot haaahah,works good for me,and smell is contained while it dry for the snap,from there i just cut my buds off into jars ,once done pull the plant from the coco and compost it
Sage advice from oldskol4evr! Keeping it simple.
 
JASONBROTHER

JASONBROTHER

206
43
i run 6 from start to finish and keep my ec in check for stage of growth,that said 900 ppm is my max and makes things a damn site better coming backwards to flush nutes back out for the end game,by reverse feeding time i get back to starting point of 250ppm for seedling stage,all i have to do is turn off lights ,no feed for a week or so,checking for snap on stems,and then harvest my smoke,no cure just smoke it.
i dont use silica either,cages instead.veg for month ,flip and finish plants,when i see the first cloudy bud,i start walking backwards with feed and ppm ,call it the slow cure in the pot haaahah,works good for me,and smell is contained while it dry for the snap,from there i just cut my buds off into jars ,once done pull the plant from the coco and compost it

To be honest , I prefer silica very much. In fact, it depends on the tent environment. silica can help plants resist high temperature. Compared with Indica and sativa, indica require a lower temperature (especially when i am grow in hot summer).
What's more, silica can help me resist a lot of pests caused by too high humidity at flowering . I find that these pests don't bother my plants at all, especially this kind of catastrophe such as White Powdery Mildew .

I've discussed this a lot with aqua man abt silica , and he told me the latest scientific research that silica is more important than calmag. I did an experiment in which I added silica to the nutrient solution of plants, and my roots grew better and thicker than those plants without silica.
i use 5ml/gallon in Veg, 7-8 ml/gallon in bllom,
In this forum, the "bio master" is a kinds of the master of hydroponics. He uses silica more aggressively, 8-10 ml per gallon in Bloom , and the diameter of his axial root system can reach 8-10 cm when harvest.
We tend to focus on leaves and flowers. Actually, relatively speaking, good root development is more important than anything else
The only thing about silica is that it's too expensive to use .. If you can't control the humidity / temperature / it's best to use silicon.
 

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