what ppm is good for hydro stating 1week to 6week

[ar15ville]

help

 

[Farmer Jon]

Heya ar15ville,
The answer to your question is a bit difficult to answer outright due to the fact that different strains respond to different nutrient strengths as well as types and brands of nutrients differently.
A generic answer would be that if you are refering to week one into veg. rooted clones can genarally handle the same strength the mother was recieving, bumping the ppm value up a bit each week until you are happy with growth rates.... remember less is more and in genaral 900-1200 ppm is fine for most strains some wanting less and some can handle a bit more. Just pay attention to the health of the plant and make sure the nutes you are using are well balanced with macro and micro nutrients. Dont forget to PH, depending on your medium typically 5.5 -6.3 is a good range for hydro.
Like i said my answer is a bit generic but with a little browsing through the posts here im sure you will be able to find any info you require.

 

[ar15ville]

well


i have aqua cana a+b and everything canna
wiht cal 'mag
i know 1300is good but in the 3week flowering they start yellowing the lower and uper leaves the first was a problem with the ph tester just 2days and damm, cuz they was really good before that. dam ph lot of stres.at the end i just loss yeild,they dont grow well.
i fix the ph ,has been the whole week i add more nutrients to 1500pm giving more N to get back the green color .cuz in 3 days im gonna start with pk1314
so shiet ,,i had another batch starting 2week ,im gonna try mouch better

 

[20north]

um week 3 i would say something like 700-800ppm sounds right to me but i like R/O water? so that could make a difference

most likely whats wrong is they are loosing nitrogen during the flip you could try to not go to 1500ppm thats really high from where im coming from

good luck

 

[Venom818]

well


i have aqua cana a+b and everything canna
wiht cal 'mag
i know 1300is good but in the 3week flowering they start yellowing the lower and uper leaves the first was a problem with the ph tester just 2days and damm, cuz they was really good before that. dam ph lot of stres.at the end i just loss yeild,they dont grow well.
i fix the ph ,has been the whole week i add more nutrients to 1500pm giving more N to get back the green color .cuz in 3 days im gonna start with pk1314
so shiet ,,i had another batch starting 2week ,im gonna try mouch better

What medium r u using and is it ro water and what ph

 

[Farmer Jon]

heya ar15ville,
sounds to me like maybe you are switching to bloom nutes to soon, i like to keep up with the nitrogen needs untill about 2 weeks into bloom when the floral clusters start to show...then i switch to bloom schedule.
up untill the flowers appear the plant is generally stretching still and demands high levels of nitrogen. If you switch to low N high P and K to soon the plant will use its N storage up and begin feeding on its self. (yellowing)
Also recent studies have shown that while in early flower formation marijuana uses more N than while in the vegative state.

 

[FileError404]

Another thing to consider first is the PPm meter you're using and the PPm meter the people giving you advice on PPm's are using...

PPm has different interpretations which is why I lobby to just use EC in questions and advice... There is PPm 500/600/700...WTF? Just pick a effing number Hydro manufacturers... What is FJ's advice of 900-1200 PPm based on? It could be anywhere from 1.3 - 2.2 EC... certainly too big of a range to narrow down.

PPms are like fat people in personal ads... "I'm average weight" means nothing :D

 

[Farmer Jon]

Another thing to consider first is the PPm meter you're using and the PPm meter the people giving you advice on PPm's are using...

PPm has different interpretations which is why I lobby to just use EC in questions and advice... There is PPm 500/600/700...WTF? Just pick a effing number Hydro manufacturers... What is FJ's advice of 900-1200 PPm based on? It could be anywhere from 1.3 - 2.2 EC... certainly too big of a range to narrow down.

PPms are like fat people in personal ads... "I'm average weight" means nothing :D

My ppm estimate is based on the fact that he is using a "ppm" meter rather than an ec meter and 900-1200 is broad enough, yet lower than his current values.
PPm meters where developed to determine the quality of water and not to mesure nutrient salts. So yes ec meters are more acurate for use in hydroponics and growing in general (due to there ability to measure the "eletrical conductivity" of a given solution) but people still use ppm meters to measure the strength
of the nutrients.
A&N conny is known to burn plants at higher ppm's (or ec) and it is best to start off lower and work your way up to the desired strength.
And as far as your statment regarding different ppms for different meters:
USA 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 500 ppm
European 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 640 ppm
Australian 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 700 ppm

 

[Sherwood]

Great stuff folks, do you mind if I jump in to get some help. I'm a first time indoor grower and don't know jack about this feeding stuff and I'm just nervous either way now. Feed and end up screwing up or keep dragging my ass while the grow goes slow and crappy. I have a ppm meter and ro water at about 10ppm out of the hose. I have 3 week old plants in dwc tubs, they look great. Big roots, long and white, plants are squat but building leaf sets, just alittle slow. I just need somone to say how to feed these GH 3 part nutrients. I know to ph the water to 5.5, maybe 5.3 to let it come up slowly someone told me. Now I have given the tubs a little nutes a few times and got ppm readings around 75. BTW, do I adjust the tub ph daily? I have GH ph down and a pen to measure with. I want the plants to start growing better now so please help me get the nerve to do something here, I'd really appreciate it.

 

[Farmer Jon]

Heya Sherwood,
A few questions...how big are the plants and are they healthy?
Is that your ph befor adding nutes or after?
What type of light are you using?
What is the temp. of the solution in your tubs?
What is the temp. of the area your growing in?
Are you adding any oxygen to your tubs? (aerating)
Are they clones or 3 weeks from seed?
What strain are you growing?

If you can answer these questions id have a better understanding of your situation and be more than happy to give you some answers.

 

[Sherwood]

how big are the plants and are they healthy? About 3 weeks old, short, about the third set of leaves ,maybe 4

Is that your ph befor adding nutes or after?5.3 to 5.5 is the before ph

What type of light are you using?I have a 1000 watt hps on 18 off 6

What is the temp. of the solution in your tubs? 65 degrees almost all the time

What is the temp. of the area your growing in? the temp at the plant tops right under the light is about 82 degrees. But the grow room is 75 lights on, 70 off.

Are you adding any oxygen to your tubs? (aerating) Each tub has pretty good air. I have one good pump with 4 outlets doing 2 tubs with 2 stones each, and 1 dual outlet wallmart pump each on the other two, with two stones each.

Are they clones or 3 weeks from seed? 3 weeks from seed

What strain are you growing? One tub has 4 JTR's and a LA Con., one tub has 4 UK Cheese bx1 and F2 beans and a mystery bean from a pack of Reserva Privada Conasuers mix. 3rd tub has 3 TGA 3rd Dimensions and 2 LA Cons, and the 4th tub is 1 LA Con 2 Reserva Privada mixed, a Moby Dick II, and a Fruit automatic lol.

I'm starting to get it I think, I just added some of these gh nutes to the tubs. I have a reading of 175ppm right now in the tubs, the ro water I use is at 10ppm fresh. I'm still sketchy on ph'ing, like when do I check, how often do I adjust (right now it's always needing down). The nutes was scaring me but I just maned up today and mixed up a gallon each for the tubs. I just used a teaspoon of each mixing well before adding each color, then poured a 1 gallon mix into each tub. I had some stupid idea that I didn't need to black out the tubs initially, so there was light getting past the tops, I corrected that.

 

[ToastyRoadie]

I have a copy of each of these in my grow room. Found them along my searches and have used them with great success since. We did find 5.8 ph to work the best using hydroton in DWC.

The first one is hydro only and the second one is for both hydro and soil.

Peace:bong2:

 

[Farmer Jon]

Looking good bud. There are only a couple of potential problems i see, one being that your ph may be a bit to low but maybe not. After mixing nutes you want your ph 5.6-6.3, 6.0 being almost ideal for vegging in dwc systems in my experience. Its ok to let it drift a bit but over 6.5 you are likely to run into problems. (so some adjustment will be required)
Second "potential" problem being that different strains will likely require different amounts of nutes to thrive. Pay attn. to there overall health and they will show you when they want more. Raise the ppm levels as they grow to ensure there getting ample amounts of what they need. Some strains are heavy feeders and some cant handle high levels.
You will also find that as they get older and you start to feed them more they will grow very fast, and it will not take long for them to outgrow the system you have them in (possibly leaving the slower ones in the dark)
So now would be a good time to read up on some similar systems that they can be moved to, to bud them out or to make some mother plants.
And dont forget to change out the water every 7-10 days to maintain a proper balance of nutrients, as some may not get used and could create a toxic build up.
Also its a good idea to mix your nutes in a separate res. and allow 24 hrs. to stabalize befor adding them to the system your plants are in.
Dont forget to check ph daily and adjust as necessary.
The farm has a lot of great information as well as some very helpful people, check out the grow faq, use the search function and ask questions. Im sure you will do just fine.

 

[Sherwood]

That's awesome I will follow what you said about potential problems and I will start filling a spare tub with ro water(it's slow) and then ph and feed it, then switch tubs after it sits over night. I didn't know why folks change the water out, toxic buildup, now I know. And I do have a seperate system waiting in th wings. Basically I bought two 22x22x7 ebb and flow style grow tubs with drains and plan to grow cuttings in that useing a drip system 24/7 and a res with an airstone. This grow is going to be a way for me to get some good phenos, maybe not incredible but good, and I will take cuttings to keep as mothers. So I hope that I can flip this grow to 12 12 in 2 weeks, wait another 3 weeks and take cuttings of the females, toss the males, maybe keep some pollen. Sound alright?:icon_spin:

 

[Farmer Jon]

5 weeks from seed is quite possible, although at 8 weeks of veg the plants will be able to support much more bud sites and be large enough to take clones from befor you induce flowering. Label them and the clones you take from them. The clones will root much faster than they would in the third week of flowering. (plus they wouldnt have to waste the time reverting back to veg from the floral phase)
Try to pick one strain you like after the first run and work with it for awile, you will learn a lot more and have a much better chance of improving quality/yield in the following runs.
Toxic build up is just one of the reasons to change out your solution. Its like this: say for instance you have 200 ppm of each N,P,K (forget about all the micro nutrients for a moment, although they are just as important) and upon testing your ppm your @ 600 ppm. As the week progresses your plants feed on the nutes you have supplied and at the end of the week your ppm reading is 300. Rather than just thinking of it as 300 ppm and topping your res off with enough water and nutes to bring it back to 600 ppm, you have to think in terms of how many ppm are left of each macro nutrient N,P,K because of the fact that your plants are not using them in equal amounts. Simply topping off may give you too much of one and not enough of another creating either a toxic or deficient solution.
LOL i hope that made sense im very tired right now.

 

[Sherwood]

Alright, things are looking up. Plants look good, brain is swollen with info, and I feel confident. Here is a couple pics from today, they do look good after I added nutes last night, need to up the ppm I think now, but real quick how do I know what ppm scale my meter reads in?

 

[ent]

Another thing to consider first is the PPm meter you're using and the PPm meter the people giving you advice on PPm's are using...

PPm has different interpretations which is why I lobby to just use EC in questions and advice... There is PPm 500/600/700...WTF? Just pick a effing number Hydro manufacturers... What is FJ's advice of 900-1200 PPm based on? It could be anywhere from 1.3 - 2.2 EC... certainly too big of a range to narrow down.

PPms are like fat people in personal ads... "I'm average weight" means nothing :D

so true!

TDS is measured in PPM.

EC is measured in either µS (MicroSiemens) or mS (MilliSiemens). 1000µS is equal to 1mS.

In the USA we typically use PPM, however internationally µS and mS are the preferred measurements.

The conversion from EC to TDS is not cut and dry. The reason is that different meters use different conversion factors. The TDS is based off of the EC reading. Therefore, NOT ALL TDS METERS WILL GIVE THE SAME PPM READING.

The most common conversion factors are:

µS * 0.5
µS * 0.7

For instance. A EC reading of 1.52 mS would equal 1520 µS.
Meters using the (0.5) conversion will give a reading of 760 PPM. 1520 * 0.5 = 760
Meters using the (0.7) conversion will give a reading of 1064 PPM. 1520 * 0.7 = 1064

Meters that use the 0.5 conversion are:
Hanna Primo
Tri-Meter
Hanna HI981504

Meters that use the 0.7 conversion are:
Hanna HI 9813-0
Hanna HI 9813-6
Hanna HI 983301N
Hanna HI 983311

Meters that are adjustable are:
Hanna HI98129
Hanna HI98311
Hanna HI981404
Hanna HI981404N
Oaktron Meters

The Blue Lab Truncheon TDS/EC meter will display in PPM using both 0.5 and 0.7 factors and also display the EC.