I look at it like this. transition(stretch)/Early flower is when your buds looks like little round hair balls and some new fan leaves may appear, mid flower is when buds start to take shape but with lots of white pistils and maybe a some orange, calyxes start to swell and stack, buds starting to fill out no more new fan leaves, late flower flower is when buds look like the buds we love, colors start to change, pistils start to change color, calyxes are still swelling up but not stacking as much as in mid flower.
OK, that sounds quite reasonable and pretty much what I'd expect. How to apply an 8-week flowering chart to an 11-week flowering strain is still a bit of a mystery, but I'm getting there. I'll use your description for determining when to switch up nutes for the last time. I still have lots of new white pistil growth, especially at the edges. The center buds look like they sort of got scorched a bit (pistils shriveled), then sort of stalled a bit, but are now producing more new pistils, in addition to fattening. Perhaps there is a time component here in that some buds look to be growing more from the base of the bud than the top. (New white pistils.) I may break out the Nikon and the macro lens to do some better shots than my cell phone ones.
You know those Latest Learning Center Articles posted here? The one on
Weed Plant Stages - What Does Cannabis Look Like Week by Week? Yes, that one. The one I excitedly turned to for a week-by-week view of 'what does cannabis look like'. There is a picture of a seed - so far, so good. Then ..... a lot of text and .... a picture of a bud and then a picture of some cut, hanging, harvested buds.
Not a single picture of seedling, vegetative, transitioning or flowering plant (other than a bud closeup). That really seems to fly in the face of the title.
I've already posted what I think is a deficiency of the article there on '
The Cannabis Growers Guide to Hydrogen Peroxide' as mentioning that there are multiple strengths of peroxide on the market, and warning about the 33% strength stuff - then failing completely to mention the strength of the H2O2 used in the article, thereby rendering it almost useless. I think I found another version of the article elsewhere that stated to use 33% food grade H2O2 in a 2.5ml/gallon ration. I've been adding 25ml of 33% H2O2 to my 14 gallon reservoir for some time now. Aside from likely killing good mycorrhizae, I've seen no ill effects, and the reservoir is cleaner now.