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What type of deficiency is this

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What type of deficiency is this

kramsey1127 32 Replies 1,699 Views
Page 2 of 2 · Replies 21–33 of 33
#22
pnwbluntman said:
It all depends on the ppfd at the canopy. And what phase the plant is in. Usually the ppfd should increase throughout the flower process by 25% intervals if you are keep the light a specific height from the plant. But there is a range to follow on the phases for flower as well as factors as rh and running CO2 to utilize all of the light
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I am running a mushroom bag i dont know what my levels are but most of my canopy is around 800 -900 ppfd some of the taller buds are getting more
 
#23
My room stays between 80-82 with lights and 68 to 72 off and around 55 rh
 
#24
Sometimes a speed glance through an Occam's Razor lens helps by keeping other noise out of your head. I'm seeing what looks like magnesium spots, some yellow fade and phosphorus discoloration all going on and mostly attacking the midsection. When that happens where it happens, the EC is usually sitting too high. If it was just magnesium spots we might want to look at pH. You can dismiss true deficiency because it's happening mid plant.

So it sounds like you're doing hybrid where you're growing in soil while also supplementing nutrients. The problem with stacking nutrients this way is you can be working blind. You know and control the feed you are adding, but you have no control (okay, less control) over the nutrients microbes in the soil are producing.

If you're going to stack your nutes, my advice is to lean more into your soil and use your supplemental feeds to only fill the very small gaps that might happen when volumes of dead microbes get washed away when you water.

For now, work with an EC and pH pen when you are doing your feedings and waterings. Keep your feeds light (.8 - 1.0) and dilute your runoff down to somewhere around 1.2-1.4 and pH of runoff somewhere around 6.2-6.4. Unless you're adding nutes that change pH value or your buffers have been depleted, you shouldn't need to adjust pH if you are just watering unless you are getting bad runoff readings. And if you are going to be playing with pens, make damn sure they're properly calibrated and the readings reliable.

What can you expect after your correction? That yellow leaf may have too much chlorosis to be repaired. You'll know your fix is working when that leaf starts looking worse, might turn a brighter deeper yellow color before it curls and dies, while you see better color taking place in all the other leaves. Phosphorus discoloration you're usually stuck with.
 
#25
Ninjadogma said:
Sometimes a speed glance through an Occam's Razor lens helps by keeping other noise out of your head. I'm seeing what looks like magnesium spots, some yellow fade and phosphorus discoloration all going on and mostly attacking the midsection. When that happens where it happens, the EC is usually sitting too high. If it was just magnesium spots we might want to look at pH. You can dismiss true deficiency because it's happening mid plant.

So it sounds like you're doing hybrid where you're growing in soil while also supplementing nutrients. The problem with stacking nutrients this way is you can be working blind. You know and control the feed you are adding, but you have no control (okay, less control) over the nutrients microbes in the soil are producing.

If you're going to stack your nutes, my advice is to lean more into your soil and use your supplemental feeds to only fill the very small gaps that might happen when volumes of dead microbes get washed away when you water.

For now, work with an EC and pH pen when you are doing your feedings and waterings. Keep your feeds light (.8 - 1.0) and dilute your runoff down to somewhere around 1.2-1.4 and pH of runoff somewhere around 6.2-6.4. Unless you're adding nutes that change pH value or your buffers have been depleted, you shouldn't need to adjust pH if you are just watering unless you are getting bad runoff readings. And if you are going to be playing with pens, make damn sure they're properly calibrated and the readings reliable.

What can you expect after your correction? That yellow leaf may have too much chlorosis to be repaired. You'll know your fix is working when that leaf starts looking worse, might turn a brighter deeper yellow color before it curls and dies, while you see better color taking place in all the other leaves. Phosphorus discoloration you're usually stuck with.
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My next grow im gonna get a pm ec pen so I know what's going in and going out. But im gonna come back to this next grow and probably go with a synthetic nutrient line so I have a little more control and as well know what's in the soil
 
#26
kramsey1127 said:
My next grow im gonna get a pm ec pen so I know what's going in and going out. But im gonna come back to this next grow and probably go with a synthetic nutrient line so I have a little more control and as well know what's in the soil
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They are a necessary component to help take guess work out. @Ninjadogma is completely correct
 
#27
my tropacana cookies! any advice? @kramsey1127
IMG 5393
 
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#30
weedra said:
any time i bent her she came out of the ground. plus reading up on the topic confused me.
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Find the base height you want to establish like a foot up from the dirt, then simultaneously pinch and bend the stem at that spot, bending slowly as you work. Once you've put a bend on it, put a splint there to hold it in place and prevent it from growing back upright. The goal is to get all those side branches growing toward the light more evenly, and although not necessary, some folks will put double netting above the plant (called scrogging) that the branches grow into so it can be better evened out.

You don't HAVE to do this with your plant. It's just a strategy to get more yield out of it. Outdoors where I play it's a different game. We prune and top for growth and cut some branches so there aren't too many so they can hold good bud weight and not fall over.
 
#31
Ninjadogma said:
Find the base height you want to establish like a foot up from the dirt, then simultaneously pinch and bend the stem at that spot, bending slowly as you work. Once you've put a bend on it, put a splint there to hold it in place and prevent it from growing back upright. The goal is to get all those side branches growing toward the light more evenly, and although not necessary, some folks will put double netting above the plant (called scrogging) that the branches grow into so it can be better evened out.

You don't HAVE to do this with your plant. It's just a strategy to get more yield out of it. Outdoors where I play it's a different game. We prune and top for growth and cut some branches so there aren't too many so they can hold good bud weight and not fall over.
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only thing i have done has been cut fan leafs, to allow more light to lower nods and stop leaf over lay
 
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#32
weedra said:
only thing i have done has been cut fan leafs, to allow more light to lower nods and stop leaf over lay
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And that's perfectly okay. I don't know if it was mentioned in this thread or not, but LED lights have fixed "zones" vertically and horizontally where the energy levels are good for the plant, and ideally you want the entire dimensions of your plant to be growing within that zone. What you'll notice is vegetation and buds that wander outside that zone done amount to much, and if not managed leading up to flowering, when the plant goes through it's stretching phase you might find that you've run out of room. Plenty of folks grow without any LST at all. You're just playing better Tetris with your space when you do.
 
#33
Ninjadogma said:
And that's perfectly okay. I don't know if it was mentioned in this thread or not, but LED lights have fixed "zones" vertically and horizontally where the energy levels are good for the plant, and ideally you want the entire dimensions of your plant to be growing within that zone. What you'll notice is vegetation and buds that wander outside that zone done amount to much, and if not managed leading up to flowering, when the plant goes through it's stretching phase you might find that you've run out of room. Plenty of folks grow without any LST at all. You're just playing better Tetris with your space when you do.
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guess that makes some sense
 
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