JK- Thanks for digging that up. I can't give you the math for mg/h without knowing your workspace, but that cleaning the air for 5500 square feet floor to ceiling it has to be on constantly with plenty of circulation, and I only do in the summer when I can get the windows open. (I vent out the basement to my heater ducts, straight into the house to cut my heating costs down.) Like I said, no one's ever noticed the smell of it, my plants, nor been affected by it in any negative way. Cleaning stoma: my bad. I use a dilution of 35% medical peroxide to control insects in my foliar feed. It's ozone's liquid form, and a direct oxygen supplement for the plant, which at my altitude matters. I think you're under the impression that this is the pollutant type ozone, which is toxic due to the chemicals it creates when it mingles with smog. If you search "peroxide" and "plants" the list of benefits is amazing. A sample from
www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.com:
Ways to use
Hydrogen Peroxide in the Garden
The benefits of
hydrogen peroxide for a garden can be useful for any kind of a garden, and any method of gardening. Peroxide is great for plants that are planted in the ground, and it’s also great for plants in containers -- it is useful in hydroponic gardens, raised beds, and greenhouses.
Similarly, peroxide for gardening applies well with all kinds of plants: a rose garden, herb garden, vegetable garden, orchard, shade trees, flower garden or lawn -- any or all of these would benefit from
hydrogen peroxide.
Peroxide works by releasing oxygen. It acts as an oxygen supplement for plants. It seems to really support both good health and strong growth for plants.
Hydrogen peroxide can also help with soil fungus: it aerates the soil, and it is anti-fungal. (It is also anti-bacterial.)
Ways to use peroxide in the garden
* General fertilizer, either in plant water or sprayed on foliage. This page has much more detail about how to mix and apply peroxide in the garden.
* For sick plants. Spray on the leaves and add to water.
* Hydroponic gardening. Hydroponic gardeners often use peroxide to feed plants, by adding it to the watering system.
* Spray on tree cuts, to prevent infection.
* As a spray in the greenhouse, to control mold and mildew.
* Sprouting seeds before planting. Added to the water that seeds soak in, the seeds will sprout faster and grow stronger.
* Rooting cuttings. Added to the water, if you’ve put the cuttings directly into water. Or, if you’ve put the cuttings into soil or medium, use peroxide in the water you’re using to water the cuttings with.
* Mold or fungus on plants or in the soil.
Hydrogen peroxide will help to control mold on plants or in the soil. If you’ve got mold on the plant, spraying the leaves is probably best… This page has the story of my lemon tree with black mold on the leaves.
* Weed killer. I’ve never used it this way, and I’m not sure I would want to… but I’ve read that 10%
hydrogen peroxide will kill weeds. Personally, I would rather pull the weeds up. If you do decide to try this, I certainly would NOT use 10% peroxide close to other plants… and I would come back later and add a LOT of water after the unwanted plants ("weeds") have died. This is very very very concentrated……
How much peroxide to use in the garden….
This page has charts showing the amount of
hydrogen peroxide to use for watering and spraying plants, for general applications and for sick or fungsy plants. Please take a look – it only takes a little bit of peroxide.
Peroxide for sprouting seeds and rooting cuttings…
Here is a science fair project using
hydrogen peroxide for sprouting seeds and rooting cuttings. In this experiment you have a choice of either sprouting seeds or rooting cuttings. Either way, different amounts of
hydrogen peroxide are used, and the results then compared.
Hydrogen peroxide in earth’s natural watering system (rain)
When the garden is watered by rain, there is a small amount of
hydrogen peroxide in the water. It is part of the earth’s cleaning system.....
As rain comes through earth’s ozone layer, some of the molecules of water (H2O) pick up an additional oxygen atom (O), becoming H2O2 –
hydrogen peroxide!
Oxygen is O2, while ozone is O3. Ozone is very unstable -that third oxygen atom moves on easily. So the water has no trouble picking up some single oxygen atoms.
Hydrogen peroxide is also very unstable -oxygen is readily freed up to oxidize various things that it encounters (such as bacteria, viruses, mold, pollution…) In the process of oxidation, the
hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is broken back down into water (H20) and oxygen (O).
Hydrogen peroxide will oxidize many kinds of pathogens and pollution, so it helps to clean the air, as the rain falls. I’ve read that there is currently less peroxide in rain water than was common in the past, since oxidizing air pollution now "uses up" much of the peroxide. (
Hydrogen peroxide is always "used up" by the oxidation process.)
Now, I think that cleaning up some of the pollution in the air is a fine use for
hydrogen peroxide, as the air after a rain is so much nicer to breathe. But our plants like peroxide too!
Alright, Sellout again. See right above where it talks about sunlight and rain being the natural providers of peroxide for the plant? Indoor you bring in light and water, but not ozone. I just think that anyone who's going into this whole hog and attempting to seal and control their environment, that this is the control the natural environment outside our little boxes uses. She's the one I trust. I also trust myself not to endanger my home by using my tools incorrectly. Compared to the rest of the basement, water next to amazing amounts of live electricity, mercury filled bulbs, gas heaters and generators, insecticides and chemical nutrients, it's no where near the top of my worries. More worried about FLIR, and I'm legal. I'd also like to make it totally clear that if someone buys one of these, takes it home, and just plugs it into the wall and walks away without bothering to learn it, that's called natural selection and they deserve what they get. Less competition for me, anyway.
Kuz- Temperatures stay fairly low in the buckets, but I'm at 8000 feet and the low was 43 degrees last night. You can do the same set up in 10" nets on tough boxes as well, with top feed drip and air stone in each for full effect. Integrates easily with DDs MPB system, with you only having to drop the water line. That's where I'm trying to take it right now, but I need to see this years outdoor to finish covering the overhead. As for drain to waste, that word "waste" is why I don't do it. I farm a half acre as well, and don't need many nutes for it from recycling my used nutrients solution outside. And the dirt farmer bio controls will clog most aero emitters. I learned it the hard way, so I'm trying to get the warning out. Those controls are meant to throw the thickest, ropiest mycelial base possible through soil. In water it creates a floating horror movie that impedes everything you want to achieve. There are good bio controls for hydro that don't do this.
Botanicare's
HydroGuard was good, but it's called something else now and I haven't tried that. As for an inline UV, I think that's the too strong sort of ozone. It's a real mild thing to play with, and like bio controls and aeroponics, is not worth playing with until you've already got your fundamentals down. pH imbalances and nutrients deficiencies will kill your yield in a week in an accelerated environment. I learned outdoor, ebb & flo, DWC, then aero. Understanding what you are doing and why is a matter of researching your equipment, nutrients and techniques, experimentation within them, and correct observation of the plants behavior. A plant with a personality you know helps quite a bit, too. Less guess work. I hope that was too much information as opposed to not enough.
