vangs
- 631
- 63
cap, is it ok to use foliar pack with heavy 16s foliar nutrient? as a foliar spray?What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?
The nute pack:
This pack has the mycorrhizae. 4 species total of only endo species.
In addition to the mycos (each species at approx 125 spores/gram) there are NPK solubilizers and fixers. Azospirrilum (marketed by x-treme as azos) is in there. That converts atmospheric nitrogen in to plant usable form. There are also bacteria for P and K uptake as well. The azospirillum, frateuria, rhizobium, bacillus... they are all at the concentration of approximately 5 billion spores/gram.
The root pack:
This is the flagship in my opinion. This is where you will find all the trichoderma and bacillus species, and several others. Over 20 species all custom blended to be able to work together in harmony and give the plants a better immune system and an amazing level of protection from root disease. Totaling over 1 trillion spores per gram of microbes, I could not possibly make it any more concentrated.
The root and nute packs combined blow competing products out of the water. It’s not .01 active ingredient. It’s 30%. Compared to a product like GW it’s 20,000 x the spore counts on trichoderma and bacillus species. If you were to take actinovate, microbelife photosynth, serenade, great white, tarantula, voodoo… you would still not be able to come close to what this combo offers.
The root pack and nute pack are separated for a reason. Pure hydro users should not use the nute pack. This is because of the potential carbon drain mycos can have on a plant that has all the food it needs readily available. At this time I recommend the nute pack for soil, peat, and coco only.
The foliar pack:
This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.
It has been known to effectively control and prevent:
Root aphids
Spidermites
Aphids
Whitefly
Grubs
Harmful nematodes
Thrips
Fungus gnats
Scale
Powdery mildew
Broad mites
Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.
It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.
If anyone has any questions I am always happy to help. If I don't have an answer, please give me the opportunity to do some research and find one.
-Cap
cap, is it ok to use foliar pack with heavy 16s foliar nutrient? as a foliar spray?
Hey Cap, what is your recommendation for RA prevention in DWC? Thank you
What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?
The nute pack:
This pack has the mycorrhizae. 4 species total of only endo species.
In addition to the mycos (each species at approx 125 spores/gram) there are NPK solubilizers and fixers. Azospirrilum (marketed by x-treme as azos) is in there. That converts atmospheric nitrogen in to plant usable form. There are also bacteria for P and K uptake as well. The azospirillum, frateuria, rhizobium, bacillus... they are all at the concentration of approximately 5 billion spores/gram.
The root pack:
This is the flagship in my opinion. This is where you will find all the trichoderma and bacillus species, and several others. Over 20 species all custom blended to be able to work together in harmony and give the plants a better immune system and an amazing level of protection from root disease. Totaling over 1 trillion spores per gram of microbes, I could not possibly make it any more concentrated.
The root and nute packs combined blow competing products out of the water. It’s not .01 active ingredient. It’s 30%. Compared to a product like GW it’s 20,000 x the spore counts on trichoderma and bacillus species. If you were to take actinovate, microbelife photosynth, serenade, great white, tarantula, voodoo… you would still not be able to come close to what this combo offers.
The root pack and nute pack are separated for a reason. Pure hydro users should not use the nute pack. This is because of the potential carbon drain mycos can have on a plant that has all the food it needs readily available. At this time I recommend the nute pack for soil, peat, and coco only.
The foliar pack:
This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.
It has been known to effectively control and prevent:
Root aphids
Spidermites
Aphids
Whitefly
Grubs
Harmful nematodes
Thrips
Fungus gnats
Scale
Powdery mildew
Broad mites
Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.
It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.
If anyone has any questions I am always happy to help. If I don't have an answer, please give me the opportunity to do some research and find one.
-Cap
I got a 8 bucket recirculating waterfarm system and have been running for 8 months with only hydrogaurd. But i want to advance further into beenie Territory. What would you recommend? Ive did my home work, and have come to the conclussion that i just need to take the root pack, some black strap molasses, earth worm castings, and some hydrogaurd and bubble that for 24 hrs. How much should i add of it, and how often?Foliar pack and root pack at 1/3 tsp per gallon for prevention. Foliar pack full strength for elimination.
I got a 8 bucket recirculating waterfarm system and have been running for 8 months with only hydrogaurd. But i want to advance further into beenie Territory. What would you recommend? Ive did my home work, and have come to the conclussion that i just need to take the root pack, some black strap molasses, earth worm castings, and some hydrogaurd and bubble that for 24 hrs. How much should i add of it, and how often?
Am i correct? Is there any other advice yo could offer?View attachment 683211
Awesome,, as i have brewed me 2 batches as of now and have been adding it when i do change out once a week at 50 ml per gal... Can i just keep my brew bucket going since i dont use up even 1/5th of it a week? Just add a handful of worm castings and a shot of molasses?In your situation I would just add the root pack at 1/3tsp per gallon, weekly or every time you do a change out.
What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?
...
The foliar pack:
This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.
It has been known to effectively control and prevent:
Root aphids
Spidermites
Aphids
Whitefly
Grubs
Harmful nematodes
Thrips
Fungus gnats
Scale
Powdery mildew
Broad mites
Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.
It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.
...
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?