Capulator said:

What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?



The nute pack:


This pack has the mycorrhizae. 4 species total of only endo species.

In addition to the mycos (each species at approx 125 spores/gram) there are NPK solubilizers and fixers. Azospirrilum (marketed by x-treme as azos) is in there. That converts atmospheric nitrogen in to plant usable form. There are also bacteria for P and K uptake as well. The azospirillum, frateuria, rhizobium, bacillus... they are all at the concentration of approximately 5 billion spores/gram.



The root pack:


This is the flagship in my opinion. This is where you will find all the trichoderma and bacillus species, and several others. Over 20 species all custom blended to be able to work together in harmony and give the plants a better immune system and an amazing level of protection from root disease. Totaling over 1 trillion spores per gram of microbes, I could not possibly make it any more concentrated.



The root and nute packs combined blow competing products out of the water. It’s not .01 active ingredient. It’s 30%. Compared to a product like GW it’s 20,000 x the spore counts on trichoderma and bacillus species. If you were to take actinovate, microbelife photosynth, serenade, great white, tarantula, voodoo… you would still not be able to come close to what this combo offers.


The root pack and nute pack are separated for a reason. Pure hydro users should not use the nute pack. This is because of the potential carbon drain mycos can have on a plant that has all the food it needs readily available. At this time I recommend the nute pack for soil, peat, and coco only.


The foliar pack:


This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.


It has been known to effectively control and prevent:


Root aphids

Spidermites

Aphids

Whitefly

Grubs

Harmful nematodes

Thrips

Fungus gnats

Scale

Powdery mildew

Broad mites

Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.


It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.


If anyone has any questions I am always happy to help. If I don't have an answer, please give me the opportunity to do some research and find one.

-Cap

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cap, is it ok to use foliar pack with heavy 16s foliar nutrient? as a foliar spray?

vangs said:

cap, is it ok to use foliar pack with heavy 16s foliar nutrient? as a foliar spray?

Click to expand...

YES.

Hey Cap, what is your recommendation for RA prevention in DWC? Thank you

DOGBUDS said:

Hey Cap, what is your recommendation for RA prevention in DWC? Thank you

Click to expand...

Foliar pack and root pack at 1/3 tsp per gallon for prevention. Foliar pack full strength for elimination.

Thanks bud, I appreciate it.

Capulator said:

What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?



The nute pack:


This pack has the mycorrhizae. 4 species total of only endo species.

In addition to the mycos (each species at approx 125 spores/gram) there are NPK solubilizers and fixers. Azospirrilum (marketed by x-treme as azos) is in there. That converts atmospheric nitrogen in to plant usable form. There are also bacteria for P and K uptake as well. The azospirillum, frateuria, rhizobium, bacillus... they are all at the concentration of approximately 5 billion spores/gram.



The root pack:


This is the flagship in my opinion. This is where you will find all the trichoderma and bacillus species, and several others. Over 20 species all custom blended to be able to work together in harmony and give the plants a better immune system and an amazing level of protection from root disease. Totaling over 1 trillion spores per gram of microbes, I could not possibly make it any more concentrated.



The root and nute packs combined blow competing products out of the water. It’s not .01 active ingredient. It’s 30%. Compared to a product like GW it’s 20,000 x the spore counts on trichoderma and bacillus species. If you were to take actinovate, microbelife photosynth, serenade, great white, tarantula, voodoo… you would still not be able to come close to what this combo offers.


The root pack and nute pack are separated for a reason. Pure hydro users should not use the nute pack. This is because of the potential carbon drain mycos can have on a plant that has all the food it needs readily available. At this time I recommend the nute pack for soil, peat, and coco only.


The foliar pack:


This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.


It has been known to effectively control and prevent:


Root aphids

Spidermites

Aphids

Whitefly

Grubs

Harmful nematodes

Thrips

Fungus gnats

Scale

Powdery mildew

Broad mites

Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.


It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.


If anyone has any questions I am always happy to help. If I don't have an answer, please give me the opportunity to do some research and find one.

-Cap

Click to expand...

so do i use the nuts and root pack separate? when i start my brew, do i add both the nute and root pack together into the water or do i have to do 2 separate brews and 2 separate feedings? also should i add some hi bris molasses into it? how long do i brew it for and whats the rate for a 5gal brew?

@vangs no nute pack in brew. Only use nute pack a couple of times in veg. I use it every time I tranplant up by watering it in. Just add it to whatever you are watering in that day.

Hi brix is horseshit. It is too acidic. Use unsulphured black strap molasses. 5-20 mL per gallon of tea brewed. All the info is on the website www.ogbiowar.com . Under biobrew recipe.

Hey Cap, thanks for the discount. Quick question, no idea if you can help. My packs are at home so I don't have access to the labels. I'm reading a paper that discusses, in part, Biochemical Sequencing of Nutrients. I'm not sure how to ask if your products are able to replicate what is stated below?

Q: Do any of your products have Silicic Acid? Or, '...one of the best ways to increase Calcium availability and uptake (other than chelating with amino acids) is to optimize Silicon levels in the form of Silicic Acid.' The author mentions, 'Adding bioavailable silicic acid, as in product xyz, helps to increase the uptake and availability of Calcium and thus, all other nutrients. This is the natural mechanism and is far more efficient than any synthetic method.'

Coming from a position of near complete ignorance, knowing you are the microbe expert, do I need to address nutrient availability, or do your packs, along with fulvics and humics help with this process enough that I don't need to provide further supplements?

I can send you the paper/link if you'd like, here's a pertinent excerpt:
"It is important to understand that plants have a defined biological sequence of nutrient uptake. This starts with Boron, which stimulates the root system to leach sugars into the medium. These sugars feed the microbes, which transform silicates (Si) into silicic acid through a process called silicification. Silicic acid enhances Calcium uptake, fol- lowed by Organic Nitrogen (from L-Amino Acids), Magnesium, Phosphorus and Potassium.

These elements should be present in a bioavailable form to plants. If one nutrient in this sequence is not available (or less available), the uptake of all other elements in the sequence is more difficult or missed. It is very important to respect this sequence in order to avoid mineral deficiencies and/or nutrient uptake problems."

Finally, looking into the biochemical sequence of nutrition in plants, it seems that biologists and ag chemists and 'biodynamic growers' agree that silicon is a required nutrient. I have spoken to seed and soil company reps as well as nutrient reps and I can't seem to find a consensus among the reps trying to sell me things, but I don't see a consensus in the scientific community either. I think this is more likely due to poor/limited research(me), limited resources(me), or I just haven't looked hard enough.

If this is not the right place for this post, please feel free to move or delete.

Thank you for your hard work.

-LGG

Capulator said:

Foliar pack and root pack at 1/3 tsp per gallon for prevention. Foliar pack full strength for elimination.

Click to expand...

I got a 8 bucket recirculating waterfarm system and have been running for 8 months with only hydrogaurd. But i want to advance further into beenie Territory. What would you recommend? Ive did my home work, and have come to the conclussion that i just need to take the root pack, some black strap molasses, earth worm castings, and some hydrogaurd and bubble that for 24 hrs. How much should i add of it, and how often?

Am i correct? Is there any other advice yo could offer?

EventHorizan said:

I got a 8 bucket recirculating waterfarm system and have been running for 8 months with only hydrogaurd. But i want to advance further into beenie Territory. What would you recommend? Ive did my home work, and have come to the conclussion that i just need to take the root pack, some black strap molasses, earth worm castings, and some hydrogaurd and bubble that for 24 hrs. How much should i add of it, and how often?

Am i correct? Is there any other advice yo could offer?View attachment 683211

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In your situation I would just add the root pack at 1/3tsp per gallon, weekly or every time you do a change out.

Capulator said:

In your situation I would just add the root pack at 1/3tsp per gallon, weekly or every time you do a change out.

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Awesome,, as i have brewed me 2 batches as of now and have been adding it when i do change out once a week at 50 ml per gal... Can i just keep my brew bucket going since i dont use up even 1/5th of it a week? Just add a handful of worm castings and a shot of molasses?

Cap - I trust all is well with you. About to order up your line and I gotta a couple three questions for you, maaan.
Would you recommend mixing your foliar and/or root og biowar products with osa/28 as foliar spray? if yes, as a brewed tea or just added to dechol'd water?
How far into flower do you recommend foliar spraying your products?
Thanks in advance. I hear nothing but praises about your products. Cheers to doin it the right way.

Capulator said:

What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?

...


The foliar pack:


This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.


It has been known to effectively control and prevent:


Root aphids

Spidermites

Aphids

Whitefly

Grubs

Harmful nematodes

Thrips

Fungus gnats

Scale

Powdery mildew

Broad mites

Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.


It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.

...

Click to expand...

Hello friends.... does someone know if Foliar is still useful against fungus gnats?
It seems it's been a few years since BTi was taken out of it... or am i wrong?