What's the ideal air temperature around exposed roots in a DWC tank?

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CrimsonBud

CrimsonBud

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Heard very very good things about this product. I use hygrozyme but haven't compared them.
Use this or the like… (SFA-100)

Thanks, both Hygrozyme and SLF-100 seem very promising!!
Digging in a little, I found that:
  • Hygrozyme is based on four kinds of enzymes and has zero bacteria or fungi.
  • SLF-100 contains enzymes AND multiple types of bacteria. This info is from the "unofficial SLF-100 guide" (an interesting read).
  • Both Hygrozyme and SLF-100 can be used in hydroponic systems that use H2O2 as a sterilizing agent (even recommended?).
The creator of SLF-100 says that bacteria and H2O2 work together:
"Bacillus Subtillus - catalase-positive bacteria - meaning given the ability to grow overnight in a simple sugar medium and added to H2O2 it will break the extra oxygen, atom off the end - the real enzyme test.”
I was sure that H2O2 will attack all types of bacteria! SLF-100 has multiple types of bacteria. What am I missing??
Also, would I still be able to use the same res water for 2-3 weeks with SLF-100? I aim for minimal maintenance :)
 
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LexLuthor

LexLuthor

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Thanks, both Hygrozyme and SLF-100 seem very promising!!
Digging in a little, I found that:
  • Hygrozyme is based on four kinds of enzymes and has zero bacteria or fungi.
  • SLF-100 contains enzymes AND multiple types of bacteria. This info is from the "unofficial SLF-100 guide" (an interesting read).
  • Both Hygrozyme and SLF-100 can be used in hydroponic systems that use H2O2 as a sterilizing agent (even recommended?).
The creator of SLF-100 says that bacteria and H2O2 work together:

I was sure that H2O2 will attack all types of bacteria! SLF-100 has multiple types of bacteria. What am I missing??
Also, would I still be able to use the same res water for 2-3 weeks with SLF-100? I aim for minimal maintenance :)


H202 attacks the cell walls of bacteria through oxidation. I would think it works with all bacteria, but I don't know what type of bacteria SLF-100 uses so I truly don't know how they work together. Is a chemist or germologist is around to help? 😂
 
CrimsonBud

CrimsonBud

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H202 attacks the cell walls of bacteria through oxidation. I would think it works with all bacteria, but I don't know what type of bacteria SLF-100 uses so I truly don't know how they work together. Is a chemist or germologist is around to help? 😂

From the SLF-100 unofficial manual:
(https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/47...0c8a72/downloads/SLF-100 UNOFFICIAL GUIDE.pdf)
"SLF-100 is A formulation of multiple species of bacteria, however there are four that really stand out and make their presence known.

• Pseudomonas putida - Phosphor solubilizer - amazing bacteria, also an antagonist for pythium and fusarium.
• Virgibacillus pantothenticus - production of ectoine and proline, causes plants to adapt to environmental stressors - among many other things
• Bacillus thuringiensis - helps with some pests - also has anti-pathogenic properties.
• Bacillus subtillus - catalase-positive bacteria - meaning given the ability to grow overnight in a simple sugar medium and added to H2O2 it will break the extra oxygen atom off the end - the real enzyme test."
~ Newton Hayes
"SLF-100 bacteria are mostly in a dormant stage, obviously for shelf life in the concentrated form.
Breaking down calcium or bone gum takes more than one type of bacteria and at the right balance.” ~ Newton Hayes
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Poison is in the concentration and they don't seem to list the concentration it can withstand. I'm always a bit leary when that's the case because much like say ozone, many claims are made its used at sage levels..... but at those safe levels it's not effective.

I'm not saying that's the case here but just food for thought.
 
CrimsonBud

CrimsonBud

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Poison is in the concentration and they don't seem to list the concentration it can withstand
You mean that they're not listing the recommended bacteria concentration plants can withstand?
By "poison" you mean the bacteria?
 
CrimsonBud

CrimsonBud

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H202 attacks the cell walls of bacteria through oxidation. I would think it works with all bacteria, but I don't know what type of bacteria SLF-100 uses so I truly don't know how they work together. Is a chemist or germologist is around to help? 😂
Lol would love an answer to this question!
 
CrimsonBud

CrimsonBud

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Coming back to the original topic of this thread.

The air temperature inside the DWC tank is closer to the grow-room temperature than it is to the water temperature.
I somehow thought that if an 86f air passes through 74f water and then into the upper space of the DWC, it would eventually chill this area to around 74f.
Wrong, of course...😂

I wish there were air pumps that had a micro compressor with active air cooling.
I rather buy something fancy like that than always having to keep an air conditioner running at 78f.
The top part of the plant can happily withstand 86f, but the exposed root zone temperature should be around 74f (same as the water temperature).
 
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CrimsonBud

CrimsonBud

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Could you run misters under the lid to drop the air temperature?
Great solution, thanks! It could even make my top feeding drippers obsolete because the net pots and roots will always be damp, and there'll also be less contact between water and light.
I guess that if the DWC air fills with 74f mist it eliminates the heat issue! 🏆💯

From your experience, what are the downsides of misting?
 
Ponky

Ponky

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Could you run misters under the lid to drop the air temperature?
Great solution, thanks! It could even make my top feeding drippers obsolete because the net pots and roots will always be damp.
I guess that if the DWC air fills with 74f mist it eliminates the heat issue! 🏆💯

From your experience, what are the downsides of misting?
Clogged misters. Line blow out. Mister pump failure. Mineral build up. The supply store is better than ordering. Misters do control air temps pretty well. Just have to monitor them a lot.
 
CrimsonBud

CrimsonBud

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Could you run misters under the lid to drop the air temperature?
Clogged misters. Line blow out. Mister pump failure. Mineral build up. The supply store is better than ordering. Misters do control air temps pretty well. Just have to monitor them a lot.
Thanks. Ordered few types and sets of 10 0.7mm misters, plus a pressure regulator valve. Hopefully this will do the trick! Thx!
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Imo raise the water level to 1" below the net pots top up each day with your diluted h2o2.

Pour res water over the hydroton after doing top ups so the roots get contact with h2o2 and other products.

72-74 F res temps are fine imo.

The air gap from the net pot to the water is where you often see the issue. This needs to be kept at near 100% humidity.

Air exchange does not happen from the bubbles but rather by surface agitation so make sure you have the surface of the sites agitated by air or waterfall.

Mosting will help the roots stay moist but this k just raising the water is a better idea. You can raise the water to even with or partway up the net pots if the roots are established.

Make sure you dilute your acid before adding.

Using enzymes will benefit you.
 
_VLAD_

_VLAD_

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I just went with southern AG like aquaman said and havent looked back. Its beem amazing and I may have used a 10th of the small bottle yet.

May not help since your using hrdrogen peroxide but figured id mention
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I just went with southern AG like aquaman said and havent looked back. Its beem amazing and I may have used a 10th of the small bottle yet.

May not help since your using hrdrogen peroxide but figured id mention
Yeah like 1ml per 20 gal males that $8 bottle outlast it's expiry time.

Little foamy and stains a bit but works well. Hydroguard is much cleaner but the $$$ is ridiculous and the concentration is like 40-50x less if I remember correctly.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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You mean that they're not listing the recommended bacteria concentration plants can withstand?
By "poison" you mean the bacteria?
I mean they are listing the concentration that's safe to use with the bacteria they use.
 
_VLAD_

_VLAD_

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Yeah like 1ml per 20 gal males that $8 bottle outlast it's expiry time.

Little foamy and stains a bit but works well. Hydroguard is much cleaner but the $$$ is ridiculous and the concentration is like 40-50x less if I remember correctly.
I havent looked but is there an exp date on the bottle? Ill be coming up on a year in a few months, assume im ok
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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Yeah like 1ml per 20 gal males that $8 bottle outlast it's expiry time.

Little foamy and stains a bit but works well. Hydroguard is much cleaner but the $$$ is ridiculous and the concentration is like 40-50x less if I remember correctly.
Dumping in 160ml of hydroguard at once SUCKS. Depending on how the res changes go and how long it lasts, we will see if I make the switch after these bottles run out.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I havent looked but is there an exp date on the bottle? Ill be coming up on a year in a few months, assume im ok
For hydrogaurd and ag fungicide there are expiry dates. I think 1-2yr shelf and 6 months after opening... but I'm sure if stored well after opening can last longer.
 
CrimsonBud

CrimsonBud

21
3
Imo raise the water level to 1" below the net pots top up each day with your diluted h2o2.
Pour res water over the hydroton after doing top ups so the roots get contact with h2o2 and other products.
72-74 F res temps are fine imo.
The air gap from the net pot to the water is where you often see the issue. This needs to be kept at near 100% humidity.
Air exchange does not happen from the bubbles but rather by surface agitation so make sure you have the surface of the sites agitated by air or waterfall.
Mosting will help the roots stay moist but this k just raising the water is a better idea. You can raise the water to even with or partway up the net pots if the roots are established.
Make sure you dilute your acid before adding.
Using enzymes will benefit you.
Thanks for the excellent advice. The goddamn air gap is indeed where troubles come from.
I'll raise the water level and install misters to keep the gap 100% humid most of the time.
I can create advanced intervals for my devices (30sec on / 2min off, 1min on / 1min off, etc).
Which interval do you recommend for the dedicated misters & agitation pump?


I just went with southern AG like aquaman said and havent looked back. Its beem amazing and I may have used a 10th of the small bottle yet.
May not help since your using hrdrogen peroxide but figured id mention
Thanks, Vlad.
I can't get any of their products in here, but I was able to find SLF-100.
It's officially compatible with H2O2, so although I'm still puzzled about how can you mix H2O2 and bacteria without killing it and get biofilm, I'll give it a shot.
 
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Aqua Man

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I mean you can't mist to much but I'd say like 5 sec every 15 min is plenty... not like it's exposed to low humidity.
 

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